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  1. #1
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    Best Hubs / wheel sets for DJ and Street FR

    I am going to be in the market soon for a new wheel set or I may end up hand building my own. What are the best hubs the bests hubs or wheel set for what I want to do? I weigh 220lbs if that matters.

  2. #2
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    You've got sooooo many options man.

    Are you looking at 24's or 26's?

    For your weight you'll obviously want to look into a burlier set like some Sun Double Tracks or some Azonic outlaws. I believe the '08 Outlaws are on sale for $200 right now, and they're cool because they can fit any 135mm width dropout and comes with both a 12mm and a 3/8ths axle, so they're versatile. Not to sure about the front hub, IIRC you need a 20mm thru.

    For 24" you'll probably want to build your wheels yourself; I believe Atomlab makes some really bomber wheels, but I've never ridden them. Sun made some double tracks in 24", but good luck finding a pair, as I'm looking for some right now myself and it's proven to be tough. Halo's are decent, I've got the Combats right now, but I wouldn't do anything less than the SAS.

    Plus if you build yourself you'll need to decide on what back hub to use, IE, cassette or freewheel, because you'll be running single speed. I like cassette hubs because of the ease of changing cogs to dial in ratios, but the freewheel back hubs are BMX reminiscent and a lot less maintenance. Removing the threaded freewheel can be a ***** sometimes...

    You'll also need to get your LBS to calculate spoke length given the dimensions of your hubs. If you're going to build yourself, just follow Sheldon Browns wheelbuilding guide on his website.

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    LOL. How did I know you would be the first one to respond on this thread.

    I'm going to be running 26', and my front hub now is a QR, since I don't want to buy a new fork right now I want to stick with that.

    I would like to build a wheelset but I would much rather buy a already made wheelset. My only thing is I don't want S*** hubs.

  4. #4
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    Hahaha yea dude I sell advertising online for a living so I am literally on the internet A L L D A Y L O N G.

    Anyway, I think you'll find the most value in the Azonics, and I hear the hubs are decent. Did you look at the reviews?

    The reviews on this site are super helpful.

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    lol. I'm a travel agent so I'm also on the computer all the time.

    No. I started there but there was so many options I wanted to get some opinions on stuff on this thread and then move that area next.

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    Yo! what do you think of the Transition Bikes Revolution WheelSet. They seem to have better reviews than the Outlaws and are pretty much in the same price range a tad bit more but what do you think. I only found them on Beyondbikes.com for $289. Have you seen them anywhere any cheaper?

  7. #7
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    I haven't ridden the transition set but I did hear the hubs are a bit better. Here's some stuff I found on other forums ab the sets, definitely google "transition vs azonic wheelsets":

    Outlaws Vs. Transitions:

    "I own both and I have a set of azonics on my 06 Kona Stab Garbanzo Deluxe and have done a ton of stuff on them at whistler and they are still perfectly true after two years and over 3000miles on them. I have a set of transitions on my Orange 223 and they have held up to anything also and i have about 2200miles on them so they both are about equall strength and both succeded on the durability test so I would say it comes down to looks personally i like the transitions better because they stand out more than the azonics 6 inch little sticker."

    "Outlaws have Supra D rims which are pretty freaking nice. The hubs are heavy as hell and the spokes are cheeze but what can you expect for $200? I've had my outlaw's for over a year and a half now and they've held up just fine. Snapped a few cheezey spokes but they stay true. The hub is as loud as you want it. If you want to make it super loud take out the spring and bend it a little tighter, not too hard."

    "I don't think they're Supra D rims, I believe they're made specifically for Azonic from an offshore company. Also, I believe I read somewhere that Transitions rims come from the same source, and that the TBC wheelset has nicer hubs. Azonic hubs were prone to failure, however they supposedly fixed this."

    I wasn't able to find the transitions less than $289, but the sets seem comparable, even though the TBC's look immensely cooler. Maybe someone else who's ridden both sets will chime in.....

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    Cool. hopefully people will. Atleast within a month or so I will def start shopping around.

  9. #9
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    If you are going dedicated SS on the rear, build a new wheelset with a SS hub. Far better than a stock wheelset that you need to convert with a SS kit. Makes a stronger wheel with no dish, looks better, etc.

    I personally run Profiles in 36 hole on both DJ/Park bikes. I actually run Profiles on my FR bike as well. They are just great hubs. For a 26" I recommend Mavic 721 or 729. With your weight the 729 would be perfect.

    Profile makes a 3/8" front hub that will work with your q/r fork. I just built a new set of Profiles with 3/8" for my Gold Label which is 3/8". Non-disc though so no front brake option..


  10. #10
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    Do the hubs allow disk? My bike is only supports disk brakes.

  11. #11
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    The Azonic is (IMO) better than the Transition. The Outlaws do indeed use a Alex Supra D rim. The hubs are Formula hubs. The front can fit 20mm TA or QR. It's great bang for the buck. The Azonic did previously have some freehub problems, but they seemed to have resolved that. If not, you'll still have a good rim to use. You can always lace it up to a nice hub like a Hadley.

    The Transition wheels do not use Alex rims. It's some other Taiwanese company. I seem to recall the TBC wheels being a bit heavier. I would say the hubs are about the same quality.

  12. #12
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    Profile's and pimplites. 24 or 26

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    Perfect timing for this thread! I was just about to start the exact same topic.

    I am also in the market for a new rear wheel. I have a set of S-Types now, with a 20mm Red Line hub up front and a 135 X 9 QR Shimano Viam rear. I have a NS Bytch and I am using the QR combined with the drop-outs in the rear, and it is getting to be a pain. I just can't get the tire to stay put, especially 180's on concrete. The Shimano is not the greatest hub , and we know this. So, to piggy back off the OP here. Which particular bolt-on 135X10 rear hub would you recommend? I already have a brand new S-Type hoop, I Just need a hub and spokes. I am thinking Atomlab or NS hubs.

    Now, I also own a set of 36h Revolutions and a set of 36h Outlaws, both 07'. I have the Outlaws on my DH rig and the Revolutions on the Bottle Rocket. Both wheelsets are great. I have more time on the Outlaws and have put them through more abuse. (However my roommate have four sets of the Revolutions, and swears by them.) My front Outlaw is perfect, as if new. The rear has a slight wobble, but all in all in good shape for what is has been through. My Revolutions...... love them! I have not had to even turn a spoke on them yet. They are just as true as they were when I opened the box. I feel the TBC hubs are a bit better, but not by much. The engagement feels a slight bit quicker on the TBC hubs over the Azonic hubs. The TBC hubs also feel more solid. Also, spinning the rear wheel on each bike while suspended, the Azonic rolls longer. I tested this on both wheelsets when new. No brakes, no rotors, no tires or tubes. Just the rim, spokes, and hubs mounted in a frame. Both hubs have the ability to be converted to fit your needs, though the TBC hubs require you to buy a few more parts. Both wheelsets look pimp! Especially the new anosized Outlaws. I am fond of the old TBC graphics though...

    BUT.... There is one thing that seperates these two wheelsets, Revolutions Vs. Outlaws. The Outlaws are single-handedly the most difficult rim to mount a tire on. It takes dish soap, hot water, three metal tire levers, and three hands to get a tire on the Outlaws. I have broke every plastic or composite lever I have thrown at it. I have to order the Park Tools big azz metal ones. They work but mar the hell out of the finish of the rim. I have a set of 2.7 Minions on them now, and I dread taking them off...

    The Revolutions on the other hand are simply the easiest rim to mount a tire on I have ever tried. I can get a new tire on and off the Revolutions using just my hands. To me, this is a big difference between the two.

    I hope this helps.
    -Sodak
    "We can always find excuses if we want to find them, but if we really want to do something, we have to just go."

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    Thanks Sodak for all that info.

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    Great write up sodak

  16. #16
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    I believe there is a set of white Revolution 32's on Pink Bike in the Buy/Sell section right now. yup, here is the link. $175 is a killer deal! I would have picked them up, but I am looking for all black. ugh...

    http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/419443/

    I wish MTBR would step up their classified section. That is the ONLY think PB has on MTBR,... the ONLY thing! lol...
    "We can always find excuses if we want to find them, but if we really want to do something, we have to just go."

  17. #17
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    sodak, if you want, you can throw a bolt-on axle in that Shimano hub.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    sodak, if you want, you can throw a bolt-on axle in that Shimano hub.

    Yeah, I have been pondering that option. It is a really good quick fix. But, the rear S-type was previously my DH rear wheel and it has been abused. I have a few flat spots, a slight wobble, and a crack. I tried to fix a dent by using "the right tool, of course", a cresent wrench. I ended up cracking the hoop, parellel on the rim. So I figured rather than polishing a turd, that being my rear rim, by fixing up the hub it would be essentially pointless. I am not sure how much longer that wheel is going to last. But i have another S-Type hoop and I figure while I am building, I might as well get the hub I need, which is a bolt on.

    Anyone have experience with the NS hubs? It does not look like the are "bolt-on" hubs, more so a modified QR system. Am I wrong? They should be fine, right? I have decided to not go with a SS hub. I am thinking this one.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    "We can always find excuses if we want to find them, but if we really want to do something, we have to just go."

  19. #19
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    What Fork is that in this picture? and how well is it doing DJ?

  20. #20
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    Anyone build up a wheelset using Chris King? I built a wheelset for a customer on an older Giant STP, but haven't seen the customer since to ask how the hubs handle DJ.

  21. #21
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    on my trials bike I had I had a Chris King Steel Hub with fun bolts and and Alex DX32 Rim it was great. I want to get something like that again.

  22. #22
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    last zakk laced to atomlab pimplite. light enough hub. loads of pawls. quick engagement. really beefy! if i break it i will be amazed to be perfectly honest.
    i ride my bi*ch hard

  23. #23
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    I have a question. Can you feel or notice the difference between a hub with 3 pawls vs. 6 pawls? I understand that there are more engagement points with the 6, but is it worth the considerible money difference for performance? I think I have narrowed down my search to a DMR Revolver bolt on. Now to decide between 3 or 6.......
    "We can always find excuses if we want to find them, but if we really want to do something, we have to just go."

  24. #24
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    I think you'll feel the pawl difference, but it also depends on what you're used to riding. I run White ENO Trials FW (72pt), and now when I hop on my mtn. bike it feels super sloppy waiting for engagement!

    My rear hub is a DMR 14/135 SS/disc. It is a really nice bomb-proof hub, but I think it's bigger/heavier than you're after. My front hub is a WTB Superduty 20mm - nice design and well made.

    Tom P.

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    Quote Originally Posted by one piece crank
    I think you'll feel the pawl difference, but it also depends on what you're used to riding. I run White ENO Trials FW (72pt), and now when I hop on my mtn. bike it feels super sloppy waiting for engagement!

    My rear hub is a DMR 14/135 SS/disc. It is a really nice bomb-proof hub, but I think it's bigger/heavier than you're after. My front hub is a WTB Superduty 20mm - nice design and well made.

    Tom P.
    DO you think its sturdy enough for a 220+ lbs Dirt Jumper?

  26. #26
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    Dude the high pawl hubs are so badass and sensitive. I can feel why my $40 Nashbar ss cassette is $40; it's got a lot of room between engagements.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by sodak06
    I have a question. Can you feel or notice the difference between a hub with 3 pawls vs. 6 pawls? I understand that there are more engagement points with the 6, but is it worth the considerible money difference for performance? I think I have narrowed down my search to a DMR Revolver bolt on. Now to decide between 3 or 6.......
    yes, but to a point. most semi-decent hubs don't skip and engage fast. however......................
    i have had an atomlab G.I. that had skipped twice in about a 10months and then i destroyed it. i have been riding a shimano deore and that hasn't skipped yet but i've only really been doing road riding because of bad weather. i now have a last zakk and havent had enough time to really test the thing out. with 6 double pawls i cannot imagine it ever skipping under load. it feels really solid.
    the points of engagement on the deore hub i had was terrible. felt like i had to crank half a crank before it actually sent any drive to the rear wheel. my new hub though seems almost instant.
    i ride my bi*ch hard

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mtbiker1986
    DO you think its sturdy enough for a 220+ lbs Dirt Jumper?
    I hope so - I'm 225!

    Seriously though, a 14mm axle is huge! I ride urban, and cross of FR/Trials and I can't imagine it failing on me.

    Tom P.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by one piece crank
    I hope so - I'm 225!

    Seriously though, a 14mm axle is huge! I ride urban, and cross of FR/Trials and I can't imagine it failing on me.

    Tom P.
    What kind of bike do you ride. post pics if you got any.

  30. #30
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    Some hubs with 6 pawls will have the same number of engagement points as a 3 pawl hub. But the force will be distributed across twice as many pawls. This will result in a bit more drag. Some hubs with lots and lots of engagement points have teeth that are too shallow and it's high maintenance or it slips.

    The Hadley 108pt engagement hubs are awesome, but some people had problems with the bearings going out, that's why they don't make them any more. I had on and didn't have issues with it.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by sodak06
    BUT.... There is one thing that seperates these two wheelsets, Revolutions Vs. Outlaws. The Outlaws are single-handedly the most difficult rim to mount a tire on. It takes dish soap, hot water, three metal tire levers, and three hands to get a tire on the Outlaws. I have broke every plastic or composite lever I have thrown at it. I have to order the Park Tools big azz metal ones. They work but mar the hell out of the finish of the rim. I have a set of 2.7 Minions on them now, and I dread taking them off...
    I've changed about a dozen DH tires on my Outlaws without issue. Just tossed a new set of DHR/DHFs on this weekend, and that included fitting them over a stretched bmx tube for ghetto tubeless. Never needed a tool for mounting.

    You may need to work on your technique.

  32. #32
    Meh.
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    I've never had an issue mounting tires on Outlaws either.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    The Hadley 108pt engagement hubs are awesome, but some people had problems with the bearings going out, that's why they don't make them any more. I had on and didn't have issues with it.
    Actually, Hadley said they worked through those issues. The reason they stopped making them was that the cost of Ti went up so much they were no longer affordable to manufacture at a reasonable pricepoint.

  34. #34
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    Transition is selling new old discontinued stock, 36h Revolutiions for $217 for a wheelset.

    https://www.transitionbikes.com/Stor...&P=1421&PL=749

    Just be prepared... Packaging sucked. First set was damaged in shipping (unserviceable). Transition shipped a replacement set free of charge. Kudos for the stand-up service, just wished they would have paid attention to the packaging the second time. Second set was still beat-up. Both wheels just loose in the box, banging against each other (paint chips, scuffs, etc), but at least they were serviceable this time. Wheels are not as pictured on website. Rims are brown, as pictured. Hubs are black, not grey ano. Decals are old style, not the new style pictured. I actually prefer the old style decals.

    Given the current price of new stock Outlaws and better packaging, you are probably still better off with the Outlaws.

  35. #35
    one chain, two sprockets
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mtbiker1986
    What kind of bike do you ride. post pics if you got any.
    The Axle is huge:
    Scratch_build5.jpg

    This is the bike: Banshee.jpg
    2008 Banshee Scratch
    w/Argyle, Profiles, Odyssey MDS, Funn Soljams, Sun Doublewides, Gazz's, BB7's...

    Tom P

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by thump
    Actually, Hadley said they worked through those issues. The reason they stopped making them was that the cost of Ti went up so much they were no longer affordable to manufacture at a reasonable pricepoint.
    The rest of the Hadleys still had a Ti freehub though.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    The rest of the Hadleys still had a Ti freehub though.
    Supposedly had something to do with needing super-duper-uber-special high quality Ti bits for the internals.

    Probably a load of crap to cover for the other issues you mentioned.

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