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  1. #1
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    Are you using carbon bars?

    How many Turner riders are using carbon bars? I've got an Answer Pro taper carbon on my bike and from all accounts at is a great bar until it snaps.

    Actually, here's a chance for you all to give me a good slapping: I had the same type of bar on my RM Blizzard and it snapped after about 8 months of riding.

    My current bar has already been scratched and nicked a bit too, both increasing my chances of a sudden nasty accident and reducing my chances of selling the bar off to some smooth xc rider.

    Any recommendations on a good replacement?

    Cheers, Duncan

  2. #2
    No, that's not phonetic
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    XCE: 2 year old Monkeylite XC
    Spot: 8 month old Monkeylite XC

    If I were to buy a new bar right this second I'd try a Maxm MX-5 or 6 or a Titec in 31.8. I like my Eastons a lot but Pete seems to think quality went all to poo when they moved to Mexico (or maybe that was their alu bars?). Unless you have a deep gouge or crash damage (and assuming no manufacturer's defects), carbon bars are stupid-strong. Stronger than Alu in similar weights, anyway.
    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

  3. #3
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well

    I have Easton carbon bars on both my hardtail and 5 Spot. The manufacturers of all carbon products are pretty specific about having any kind of surface degradation i.e. scratches, grooves etc. Anything suspect and I would replace them.
    I've had no problems with my Eastons and I really like the size and sweep. The chance of them failing catastrophically doesn't put me off trying new stuff, drops etc. In fact the only part I have had fail in that way was a stem and that was alloy.
    The lifetime warranty and extensive testing done by Easton and their experience outside the bike industry all serve to give me confidence in their products. Blind faith, maybe?

  4. #4
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    Answer Pro Taper here too...

    Had mine about 2 years with no problems - a few minor scratches from moving levers around, but otherwise sound :^)

    I like the shape and run regular alu ProTapers on my Singlespeed.

    However, if you've snapped one (was it in a big stack?) I'd personally be a bit shy of using one again. Having said that, I've crashed on mine plenty and it's fine. I weigh around 150 if that makes any difference.

  5. #5
    Still chuggin' along
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    2yrs on a Monkeylite SL now and I really like the vibration damping vs aluminum bars. Don't forget that aluminum bars don't always bend before breaking; sometimes they snap, too. It definitely scratches up more easily than an aluminum bar but surface scratches don't bother me and so far, I don't have any deep ones.**knock on wood**
    [size=3]Make Everyday your Masterpiece - [/size][size=3][size=2][size=1]George Michael[/size] [/size][/size]

  6. #6
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    Any issues using ODI style clamp on grips with carbon bars? I know the brake and stem areas are reinforced, which got me wondering about the grips.

    If anyone is interested, you can get the Eason Monkey Lite XC bar (175g) for about $60 (45% off) from Performance using the 20% off coupon code: 6000375

  7. #7
    No, that's not phonetic
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    No, I run ODI lock-ons on all my bikes. They cause less bar-squish than the stem, shifter, or brake perch.
    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tscheezy
    No, I run ODI lock-ons on all my bikes. They cause less bar-squish than the stem, shifter, or brake perch.
    Thats good news! Thanks.

  9. #9
    allways exhausted
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    Quote Originally Posted by tscheezy
    No, I run ODI lock-ons on all my bikes. They cause less bar-squish than the stem, shifter, or brake perch.
    anybody of you heard about syntace bars and stems?

    it's a german brand with a very high reputation for very lightweight but bombproof components (www.syntace.com)
    they do have a series of carbon bars too
    (i personaly would stick with alu though)

    but i don't know if their products are availlable in the US (could be as they are pretty big in germany)

  10. #10
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    Yes, and don't laught but they are the Performance house brand riser bars, bought as an open box for $49.99. I like them enough, I bought a second pair for my Hardtail.

  11. #11
    allways exhausted
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    Quote Originally Posted by tscheezy
    We do have Syntace over here, but mostly their road components (aero bars and such).
    i like their mtb components because of the combination of light weight and stability and especially because of the adjustable stems (lenght, hight, angle).

    I'm going to put one on my new 5spot so it can easyly adjusted to different rides

  12. #12
    No, that's not phonetic
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    We do have Syntace over here, but mostly their road components (aero bars and such).
    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

  13. #13
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    I have gone through 2 Easton carbon bars so far on my RFX.

    Both bars started cracking in the first upsweep from the stem area on the right hand side, right along the top you could see these little lines appearing lengthwise along the bar, after a while you could feel the cracks getting more pronounced when you rubbed your finger over the top (went from just a visual crack to one you could now feel) ... I had a Titec stem at the time with just a two bolt mounting plate, I've since changed to a four bolt mounting plate on a new stem and my replacement bar has been fine ever since (Easton was cool and warrantied both bars!)


    Clem

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyJ
    The lifetime warranty and extensive testing done by Easton and their experience outside the bike industry all serve to give me confidence in their products. Blind faith, maybe?
    I had two Easton Monkeylite XC riser bars replaced under warranty due to cracks radiating out from the stem clamp area.

    Easton provided great customer service but I have no faith in the bars. I traded them against a MX6 which I now use on both bikes.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by HubbaMan
    I have gone through 2 Easton carbon bars so far on my RFX.

    Both bars started cracking in the first upsweep from the stem area on the right hand side, right along the top you could see these little lines appearing lengthwise along the bar, after a while you could feel the cracks getting more pronounced when you rubbed your finger over the top (went from just a visual crack to one you could now feel) ... I had a Titec stem at the time with just a two bolt mounting plate, I've since changed to a four bolt mounting plate on a new stem and my replacement bar has been fine ever since (Easton was cool and warrantied both bars!)
    Ditto. I even have a macro shot of the two bars around somewhere.

    I used an Azonic four bolt and a Thompson four bolt stem.

  16. #16
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    Hey Pete, did you use a torque wrench when you installed the bar?

    I understand that it's pretty important to get correct and even torque on all 4 bolts.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duncan
    How many Turner riders are using carbon bars? I've got an Answer Pro taper carbon on my bike and from all accounts at is a great bar until it snaps.

    Actually, here's a chance for you all to give me a good slapping: I had the same type of bar on my RM Blizzard and it snapped after about 8 months of riding.

    My current bar has already been scratched and nicked a bit too, both increasing my chances of a sudden nasty accident and reducing my chances of selling the bar off to some smooth xc rider.

    Any recommendations on a good replacement?

    Cheers, Duncan
    Got Easton EC70 Monkeylites on my 5 Spot. On the second pair after the first cracked in a crash. Same crash totally sheared the alu seatpost so I'm not worried about the strength of the EC70s and they feel so much better than alloy bars

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve71
    Hey Pete, did you use a torque wrench when you installed the bar?

    I understand that it's pretty important to get correct and even torque on all 4 bolts.
    Yes.

    The second handlebar was replaced in mid-road trip becuase I discovered the cracks on the first set.

    I actually under-torqued the second bar, to the point that it started rotating while riding, and incrimentally tightened it up to the point that it would rotate.

    Two days later it was exhibiting the same cracks, in the same place, as the first bar, as also described by Hubbaman.

  19. #19
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    I've seen posts from a F1 carbon composites engineer who won't fit any carbon to a mountain bike, IIRC he has been invloved in the destructive testing of carbon for his job too. He says it's too risky as you cannot know how much damage has been done to the structure in a crash which will not show on the surface until it suddenly and catastrophically fails. Carbon usually fails completely and very suddenly, I also know a rider who suffered serious internal injuries when a carbon bar snapped during a crash and puntured his abdomen to a depth of several inches, not nice

    So I don't use carbon on my 5Spot, I do use easton alloy bars though EA70 and a Thomson post. Nothing wrong with carbon as a material but I don't see the need for it on a bike that will be crashed

  20. #20
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    I've used Monkeylites in the past and they were fine but I did crash them and marked them up enough for my LBS to suggest they be checked. They were sent by the LBS to the UK importer and were said to be 'probably ok' no more than that, but no guarantee they wouldn't fail in the future. I could have them replaced for 50% of full price if I wanted.

    The post's by the F1 carbon engineer pointed out that the carbon structure could be damaged internally without showing visible signs, hence his reluctance to use them. The only sure way of testing carbon to find it's limits are destructive, which isn't much use if you want to know your bars/seatpost are fine. I do know many riders who use them without problems and it's not like you hear reports of carbon bars failing very often, or mass reports of Giant/Trek carbon frame failures.

  21. #21
    t66
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    Good job! MaxM

    MX-6 on my RFX and I beat the @$#* out of them. Two thumbs up!

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by HubbaMan
    I have gone through 2 Easton carbon bars so far on my RFX.

    Both bars started cracking in the first upsweep from the stem area on the right hand side, right along the top you could see these little lines appearing lengthwise along the bar, after a while you could feel the cracks getting more pronounced when you rubbed your finger over the top (went from just a visual crack to one you could now feel) ... I had a Titec stem at the time with just a two bolt mounting plate, I've since changed to a four bolt mounting plate on a new stem and my replacement bar has been fine ever since (Easton was cool and warrantied both bars!)


    Clem
    Easton recommends a 2-bolt handlebar clamp over a 4-bolt clamp. It seems that the 2-bolt clamp spreads the clamping forces more evenly on the handlebars.

  23. #23
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    Found that picture that shows the cracks.




  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by WarrGuru
    Easton recommends a 2-bolt handlebar clamp over a 4-bolt clamp. It seems that the 2-bolt clamp spreads the clamping forces more evenly on the handlebars.
    They may recommend it but from my experience it definitely worked better the other way around. I had read that indeed a four bolt clamp puts too mush force on the edge of the clamp but it's been fine so far and my riding habits haven't changed, in fact I'm hitting bigger stuff now.
    The cracks in Pete's picture are eaxctly the same as I had with my two bars.

    Either way, I'm removing the carbon bar once I install my Super T and it'll become a backup emergency bar only.


    Clem

  25. #25
    AOK
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    Just curious...

    Quote Originally Posted by Mrmoots
    I used an Easton Monkey-lite on my Superlight for 3 years. No problems. I use them on my hardtail and on my 5-spot. I haven't had any problems yet. However, it is kind of weird thinking that you could get a bar to fail without any idea it was going bad.

    Do all the cracks show up? Since they are wound, itsn't possible that it could be failing on the interior surface first?

    I plan on going to light alloy in the future.
    Ok, I am hardly a materials engineer, but couldn't aluminum just as easily start to fail on the inside surface first?

    I don't necessarily disagree with some of the pros/cons of carbon bars, I just think that many of the same pros & cons could also apply to lightweight Al bars.

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