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  1. #1
    nocturnal oblivion
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    Would a BB shell mount roller guide work?

    For all of us without ISCG running 1x9 or 1x10, in need of a roller, and having screwed up chainlines.
    How about a basic lower roller just like the Blackspire Stinger except with a clamp around the BB shell? Give the BB shell/clamp surface a sticky rubber sleeve and cinch that sucker down.

    Maybe it'd rotate at times when hit, but if you have a bashguard sandwich the roller would stop at the bash and roll with it. No biggie, wouldn't pinch the chain.

    I'm ready to yank the Stinger from my 5 Spot. I even modified my 11-34 into an 8 speed narrow 12-34 spaced out from the hub. Works fine but I miss my 11t.

    Whaddya all think? Saar has the mill ready...
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  2. #2
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    back in the day...

    MRP used to use set screws to hold their pre-ISCG chainguides to the outside of the shell. Problem with that is the gouges left by the screws when they were rotated was ugly, but would not disable a bike. A radial clamp would be a much better idea, then it would be a light scratching instead of a few gouges if it was smacked on the ground.

  3. #3
    Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
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    Quote Originally Posted by stumblemumble View Post
    For all of us without ISCG running 1x9 or 1x10, in need of a roller, and having screwed up chainlines.
    How about a basic lower roller just like the Blackspire Stinger except with a clamp around the BB shell? Give the BB shell/clamp surface a sticky rubber sleeve and cinch that sucker down.

    Maybe it'd rotate at times when hit, but if you have a bashguard sandwich the roller would stop at the bash and roll with it. No biggie, wouldn't pinch the chain.

    I'm ready to yank the Stinger from my 5 Spot. I even modified my 11-34 into an 8 speed narrow 12-34 spaced out from the hub. Works fine but I miss my 11t.

    Whaddya all think? Saar has the mill ready...

    Why not just use a regular BB mount Stinger? Fine tune the rest of the chain line if need be with other thin spacers there if you have to, and move the ring inboard on you crank, use some thin chain ring bolt spacers if need be. Cheap, easy, and unless your chain line is completely whacked, ought to work fine.

    It should be pretty easy to space things for your chain line off the front ring to line up right with the middle of the cassette, one way or another.

    If you need to, give the Stinger plate an S-bend curve if you need the roller more in or outboard, or a longer bolt/washer combo.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  4. #4
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    Yes a regularly used piece of equipment designed for exactly what you're looking for will work fine.
    STRAVA: Enabling dorks everywhere to get trails shut down........ all for the sake of a race on the internet.

  5. #5
    nocturnal oblivion
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    Quote Originally Posted by turnerbikes View Post
    MRP used to use set screws to hold their pre-ISCG chainguides to the outside of the shell. Problem with that is the gouges left by the screws when they were rotated was ugly, but would not disable a bike. A radial clamp would be a much better idea, then it would be a light scratching instead of a few gouges if it was smacked on the ground.
    Especially not a problem for a raw frame.

    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover View Post
    Why not just use a regular BB mount Stinger? Fine tune the rest of the chain line if need be with other thin spacers there if you have to, and move the ring inboard on you crank, use some thin chain ring bolt spacers if need be. Cheap, easy, and unless your chain line is completely whacked, ought to work fine.
    ^^^Stinger is bent and lines up fine. The problem with doing spacers is that I run a BBG bash/inner plate sandwich.
    With the sandwich the bash would have to be moved to the inside of the spider, otherwise if the ring is moved in the gap to the ring is too big and the chain can jam.
    It'd be a bit of a pita to space the ring off the bash with the bash on the inside, then also space the inner plate off the granny posts.
    It may work and it'll be my next trial. It's curious though that no one has a shell clamp guide though, seems like a simple solution.

    Thanks for the help.
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  6. #6
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    What about a BB mount LG1 plus a bashguard?

    Do you really need to run two plates?
    STRAVA: Enabling dorks everywhere to get trails shut down........ all for the sake of a race on the internet.

  7. #7
    nocturnal oblivion
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    Quote Originally Posted by kidwoo View Post
    What about a BB mount LG1 plus a bashguard?

    Do you really need to run two plates?
    I'm trying to ditch the BB mount plate to better the chainline. It's pretty screwy with a BB mount in there, works good without it but I like having a roller.
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  8. #8
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    I guess I'm still not completely understanding your problem. A BB mounted chainguide is accounted for in most BB setups, both 68 and 73mm mm shells. 68mm/two spacers 73mm/one spacer OR a bb mounted chainguide. With the chainring in the 'middle' position, the bashguard on the 'outer' position, you're essentially getting the same 1x9 setup that existed on dh bikes for eons.

    What frame is this?
    STRAVA: Enabling dorks everywhere to get trails shut down........ all for the sake of a race on the internet.

  9. #9
    nocturnal oblivion
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    Quote Originally Posted by kidwoo View Post
    I guess I'm still not completely understanding your problem. A BB mounted chainguide is accounted for in most BB setups, both 68 and 73mm mm shells. 68mm/two spacers 73mm/one spacer OR a bb mounted chainguide. With the chainring in the 'middle' position, the bashguard on the 'outer' position, you're essentially getting the same 1x9 setup that existed on dh bikes for eons.

    What frame is this?
    I hear you. It's a 2010 5 Spot.
    A lot of guys (myself included) found that the single spacer is best placed on the non-drive side. DT felt that this was the best place for it in a past thread as well. This setup works well, especially on a trail bike where the majority of time and a lot of pedaling force is spent in the 32t cog climbing.

    From what I remember the above setup gives a 5th cog mid-cassette line-up with the ring. That spacer (or guide mount) on the driveside throws it out just enough to be funky in the 32t cog.
    I get a continuous grinding noise on climbs from the (SS-specific Salsa) ring and the cassette.

    In the meantime like I mentioned I ditched the 11t cog and spaced the cassette out off the freehub giving me a narrow cassette with 8 speeds. It works but it sucks not having an 11t.

    I'm totally open for ideas though. A compromise would be to find a BB mount guide that's very thin, though I couldn't find any threads discussing that.
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  10. #10
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    Let me look at my chainline when I get home on my 5spot. I'm running a dual setup but with a just a bashguard and a stinger, I remember it setting up pretty well. No spacer on the nondrive side...
    STRAVA: Enabling dorks everywhere to get trails shut down........ all for the sake of a race on the internet.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by stumblemumble View Post
    A compromise would be to find a BB mount guide that's very thin, though I couldn't find any threads discussing that.
    The Heim (?) BB mounted roller was made of stainless steel and was very thin. I had one on my 6.6 a few years back. Do they still makes those.

    I've seen the threads about where to put the spacer and decided to leave mine on the drive side as directed. Chainline seems fine. 32 x 34 is a bit extreme but doesn't grind. I find if I just let go of some of my ego, 22 x 30 or 22 x 28 is about he same gear inches and lines up better.

  12. #12
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
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    I confused. Why don't you want to run a standard BB mount guide? Chainline?
    NOAH SEARS
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    TECH QUESTIONS HERE: INFO@MRPBIKE.COM

  13. #13
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    2011 spot, XT cranks, no spacer either side, BB mounted stinger, dual ring setup.



    If I can do it with two rings, you can do it with one with any of several readily available single ring chainguides.

    I wouldn't be surprised if that grinding you're getting was from running two plates.
    STRAVA: Enabling dorks everywhere to get trails shut down........ all for the sake of a race on the internet.

  14. #14
    nocturnal oblivion
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    Quote Originally Posted by kidwoo View Post
    I wouldn't be surprised if that grinding you're getting was from running two plates.
    Thanks for the pic and you're right, some of it is from the sandwich, though the ring does grind the chain a bit on climbs. I went with the sandwich and stinger because of cost, I'll try spacing the bash inside the spider though I'm not excited about it.
    If anyone has input on the thinnest BB mount guide plate I'm all ears, I think the Stinger is a bit on the thick side even for aluminum.
    The Heim guide maker was bought up by MRP from what I recall and is no longer available.
    It'd be great to figure out a shell clamp setup and be done with it though.
    In the meantime Downieville this weekend...
    Last edited by stumblemumble; 08-26-2011 at 07:24 PM.
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by turnerbikes View Post
    MRP used to use set screws to hold their pre-ISCG chainguides to the outside of the shell. Problem with that is the gouges left by the screws when they were rotated was ugly, but would not disable a bike. A radial clamp would be a much better idea, then it would be a light scratching instead of a few gouges if it was smacked on the ground.
    Haha...I still have one
    You never know...I may need it again one day


  16. #16
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    Stinger is a whopping 2.5mm - same as a standard BB spacer. If using a bash, get on of these. or one of these and mate it up with a BB mounts Stinger. Get creative with some bolts and washers, and it'll work quite well.\
    If dead seat on nothing between your frame and BB, then why not just use a seat tube mounted guide? Paul, MRP, e.13, and a couple other companies have things that would work. They don't always play nicely with bash rings though.

    Heim was bought out by e.13 - and still made, just a different version than the old. Not sure on the thickness, but looks like it may be thinner than the Stinger.

    So here you go. Pair that up with one of the guide bits above and see what you can come up with.

    Or get a Paul seat tube mount guide, and hack off the outer bit so it'll play nicely with your outer bash, not mess up your chain line, and still do the job.

    Or go to a local machine shop and have them make you a thin steel Stinger clone, stick your own roller on it and go nuts.

    If none of those options appeal, then suck it up and
    get a BB mount Straitline, MRP, e.13, Gamut, etc. single ring guide setup. A bit over $100 if you shop around, and it won't screw up the chainline too much. Really.

    IMO, on a single ring trail bike setup, an upper guide bit like that sort of stuff is more important than a lower roller. Keeps the chain from bouncing off the top, and keeps it quieter. If you do it right, there is nowhere for the chain do derail to.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  17. #17
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    Mostly........


    THIS VVVV

    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover View Post
    Stinger is a whopping 2.5mm - same as a standard BB spacer. If using a bash, get on of these. or one of these and mate it up with a BB mounts Stinger. Get creative with some bolts and washers, and it'll work quite well.\
    ^^^^^^That right there^^^^^^^

    Seriously. This ain't rocket surgery.
    STRAVA: Enabling dorks everywhere to get trails shut down........ all for the sake of a race on the internet.

  18. #18
    nocturnal oblivion
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    At the risk of sounding like a tard I don't see where you're going with the links, the roller lines up fine and is not the problem. The idea is to just ditch the spacing on the driveside.
    The n-stop won't work due to the height of the interrupted seat tube, I assume the Paul is the same. The E13 XCX-ST and such don't allow a bash guard.
    The Stinger btw is 3mm on my calipers, I know it's not a lot but I wanted to know if there were other options.
    I appreciate the input fellas, not downplaying anyone's ideas.
    I'm going to give some thought to making a shell clamp setup, I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing the obvious (aside that it's not entirely necessary). I think it's a neat idea if it works.
    The fact is that a 53mm chainline up front is not optimal, getting it down to 50mm I think would be better for a bike that spends most it's time climbing.
    Moving the bash inboard of the spider looks to be a big leap, probably too much.

    A clamp on the shell with a flange for ISCG sounds simple enough if I had access to a mill I'd modify a BB/ISCG adaptor and give it a shot.
    Thanks for the input, short of finding one of those DT mentioned I'll probably have to live with it.
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

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