Results 1 to 20 of 20
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    21

    Worn pivot shell

    I finally got around to replacing my main pivot on my 02 XCE and found that the pivot shell has worn. The wear line from where the bushing was is visible, and enough material has been removed that the new bushing can be pressed in by hand without much resistance.

    I know I'm behind in servicing this pivot, but I have been good about lubing the pivots regularly (this is actually the only one that would ever take much lube) and I thought the failure would be in bushing wear, not the pivot shell.

    Is there anything to do to correct this problem?

  2. #2
    banned
    Reputation: Jerk_Chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    16,480
    Clarifying-
    When you refer to the "shell", are you referring to the actual metal or the composite sleeves?

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by Jerk_Chicken
    Clarifying-
    When you refer to the "shell", are you referring to the actual metal or the composite sleeves?
    What I mean by pivot shell is the pivot portion of the bike's frame. That's what I'm worried about, it's the only thing that I didn't get a replacement part for in my kit.

  4. #4
    banned
    Reputation: Jerk_Chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    16,480
    Again, you're not answering the question I posed. That might get in the way of getting a proper answer.

    You are giving the impression your frame is trashed because you didn't change the pivots and bushings in time.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by Jerk_Chicken
    Again, you're not answering the question I posed. That might get in the way of getting a proper answer.

    You are giving the impression your frame is trashed because you didn't change the pivots and bushings in time.

    Settle down turbo, I did answer your question. My frame has a groove worn in it where the bushing was aparently rotating against it. I am afraid my frame is damaged because of this, and am wondering what I can do to stop the bleeding.

  6. #6
    banned
    Reputation: Jerk_Chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    16,480
    Again, nook nook, you're having problems reading and expressing yourself.

    The "axle" thingy is the pivot, while the composite sleeve in the frame is the BUSHING. The bushing is pressed into the frame's pivot shell and is STATIONARY.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by Jerk_Chicken
    Again, nook nook, you're having problems reading and expressing yourself.

    The "axle" thingy is the pivot, while the composite sleeve in the frame is the BUSHING. The bushing is pressed into the frame's pivot shell and is STATIONARY.

    The bushing is supposed to be stationary in the pivot shell, mine was not, hence the damage that concerns me. If the bushings and/or pivot were damaged, no worries, that's what I was replacing.

  8. #8
    banned
    Reputation: Jerk_Chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    16,480
    Good, so you need a new mainframe. Or just BJ weld the next bushing into the pivot shell.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by Jerk_Chicken
    Good, so you need a new mainframe. Or just BJ weld the next bushing into the pivot shell.
    Wow, as useless as you seem, that's not a bad idea. I may use some blue loc tite to keep the bushing from spinning and loosening the joint up any further. Thanks Jerk!

  10. #10
    banned
    Reputation: Jerk_Chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    16,480
    No, blue loctite won't work. At the least it won't work. Most likely it will melt the bushing. If you want, you can try and use CA (cyanoacrylate) gel, or CA metal adhesive, which is a thick, high strength ca.

    And if you love your frames, you'd maintain them.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    18
    I agree with Jerk on the JB Weld. I have not used it for this purpose before, but don't see why it would not work. The only potential problems are:
    1. Not being able to easily get the bushing out at a later date (may require machining, not a huge deal for some though).
    2. Get too much in there and cause problems.

    Personally, I would use the JB weld, glue the bushing in, wait for it to fully cure (24 hrs or so), then assemble.

    Joshua

  12. #12
    banned
    Reputation: Jerk_Chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    16,480
    Or use jb quick and it will fully cure in a few hours. Don't need to use much, just enough to set it and fill it.

  13. #13
    Lay off the Levers
    Reputation: Bikezilla's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    10,138
    I'd strongly recommend calling Turner for advice BEFORE you glue or epoxy anything.
    There may be a more practical and less permanent solution. If the bushing has been rotating in the pivot shell there may be other problems to look for first, like cracks or ovalization. Unlikely but so is this problem.

    My .02 cents.
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,990
    Agree with Zilla .... PLUS

    If you're going to use some form of glue of loctite, use the green loctite that's for filling gaps. It's recommended by Trek for their bushings when the frame has ovalized......and I hear that it works well.. It's specifically for filling gaps and holding things (like bushings) in place.

    I don't remember the loctite #, but I'll see if I can find it... and post back.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    21
    Thanks all. I'll give Turner a call tomorrow to see what my factory recommended options are.

  16. #16
    Flyin Canine
    Reputation: shanedawg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,282
    I'd say call turner. Maybe they can just get you a slightly oversized bushing and you could avoid the jb weld idea. My second idea would be the green loctite idea. It was worked for me on headsets that were loose.

  17. #17
    Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
    Reputation: cactuscorn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    12,971
    another vote for the green if turner cant bail ya out somehow.
    No, I'm NOT back!

  18. #18
    No, that's not phonetic
    Reputation: tscheezy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    14,365
    There are versions (colors) of loctite for this very purpose, like BS mentioned. JB Weld is permanent, but there are some high strength gap-fillers which are not going to glue your bushings in permanently. I don't know enough about them to recommend anything, so a little on-line research is in order. Start with the "green" loctite that BS referred to.
    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CragRat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    208
    The only issue i can think of with bonding it in somehow is,the yellow bush actually compresses when pressed into the shell which not only gives a tight fit in the shell but also gives a snug fit on the shaft when assembled. If the shell has worn enough to show a line,the yellow bush may not compress when pressed into the shell and leave slop between the shaft and bush.I have a spare HL kit and the shaft flops around between the bushes when not in the frame but when its pressed in the frame its real tight,so i guess the others will be the same.

    I serviced my pivots reacently, and when taking the shaft out of the seat stay pivot which was really tight, i put the allen key in the center then turned and pushed the shaft out the other side and the yellow bush came out with the shaft.
    It made me think that they could easily spin and wear the frame if it came out that easy.I thought they would have some sort of little tab on the back that would sit into a little slot in the shell to prevent this.
    Im sure Turner will have a fix for this as it can't be the first time its happend let us know the fix.

    just my twopence worth

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    2,305

    Pics

    Please send pics to Greg@turnerbikes.com Please make them good as Greg and I are both old and dim of eye.

    DT

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •