Switching between Wheelsets
Is it too optimistic of me to think that I can swap between two wheelset on my 6 Pack without having to make adjustments to the rear derailleur and/or the disc brakes? One wheelset are DT 6.1's laced to a HD King rear hub w/funbolts and a King 20mm front, and the other wheelset are DT 5.1's laced to an ISO King rear with a King 20mm front. The rotors are the same on both wheelsets, but the rotors on one are worn while the others are brand new. Seeing as how I have yet to get the front wheelset to swap without adjustment to the front caliper, I'm thinking it's impossible with the rear wheels with different types of King hubs and the added complexity of the drive train. Any thoughts? If it can be done how should I go about it?
I'm pretty sure a second 6-Pack would do the trick.
The drivetrain shouldn't be an issue because you are using a 9 speed cassettes on both right? Unless the largest cogs on your cassettes are drastically different you won't have any issues there.
The rear rotors might be an issue. In theory, the rear rotors should line up perfectly because both King hubs use the same hub shells and you are using the same rotors. If the new rear rotors are slightly inboard, you can use some .2mm spacers between the rotor and hubs for the initial adjustment to center the new rotors.
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See El C's bike (6 Pak).
Originally Posted by CrashTheDOG
See El C's brakes (Avid mechs).
Hey, wait. I've got that same bike and same brakes, and switch wheels often in very little time, even if the brakes need a little tweak!
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I like the 2nd bike idea much better... perhaps a Highline?
Last edited by Bikezilla; 05-15-2006 at 09:01 PM.
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I have two rear wheels, both have king hubs, one is universal with ISO adpater and the other is ISO (discotech). I swap between them all the time, the only thing I tweak is that I push the pistons into my caliper completely with a screw driver, then after installing the wheel I grab the lever a few times to re-center the pistons on the rotor.
maybe you need to compare the caliper mounting with both wheels installed, and split any difference between them with the spacing?
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Just another FOC'er
I switch between 3 different wheelsets on my Pack on a regular basis. I find the rotor position shifts a couple mm's between hubs, but the cassettes tend to be pretty close. I've got Avid Mechanicals which take about 10 seconds to get aligned perfectly. As for the derailleur, the most I ever have to adjust it is a couple clicks at the shifter (X.9).
I was going to switch the brakes out to hydros for better modulation, but the wheel switching thing has made me rethink that.
It can be done.
I did it with a set of XM819 / King Disc and X317 (717) Onyx Disc.
The trick is to determine which wheel has the innermost rotor. It's easy to tell just by swapping wheels and seeing which rotor is closest to the hub (relative to the caliper).
Then you just shim the rotor on the rotor of the wheel that had the rotor that was closest to the hub.
It took me about an hour and a bunch of shims (measured wrong the first time), but now I can switch wheels and the brakes line up perfectly.
The rear cassettes seem to line up well as long as one cassette isn't shimmed ....(la King Hub and XT cassette play issue). even if the cassette setup isn't perfect, it only takes a quick quarter or half turn at the handlebars.
That's a great idea. I'll definatelly keep it in mind for the future.
Originally Posted by Blue Shorts
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Originally Posted by tscheezy
Yet another bike seems to be your solution to everything huh??? Too funny...
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I switch between Mavic Crossmax XLs and Deemax. No cog or rotor realignemnt necessary. I think if he hubs are from the same manufacturer, chances are you won't need realignment.
"The best you've ridden is the best you know" - Paul Thede, Race Tech
I have been switching from a XT hub wheelset a Hope hub one and an FSA XC 300 one. So far the effort has been minimal, I've just had to center the calipers, which is really easy on Avid Juicy's, and do a minimal adjustments on the deraileur. It takes 5 minutes max.
OTOH, you might want to pair the rotors to the same pads as they tend to wear together.
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Easy route, get the avid mechs. Expensive route, get a highline. Most work route, shim rotors, calipers, etc and still maybe have some rubbing.
Also the most expensive route (short of getting a new bike ). Then you also have to use mech brakes. I prefer hydro, thank you and after switching brakes.... you still have to adjust them.
Originally Posted by shanedawg
You don't need to shim the calipers. You only need to shim the rotors... and only on one set of wheels. Once it's done.... it's done.
Originally Posted by shanedawg
To each their own.