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  1. #1
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    super t help from super homers needed

    so i went a scored a nib '07 super t rcv off hellbay today and now im lookin for some answers. the plan is to use this on the med '07 rfx for the 1 or 2 dh races i do a year and who knows what else that may come my way. the course ive run out here is pretty steep, full of skull sized rocks, big roots, a cpl big drops but not ultra techy. im 165lbs in boxers and 5'9" with a tempered amount of trail aggression. im no pansy but im not quite daring yet so i stick to 6 foot drops and avoid gaps. hope thats enough info.

    i figure i can run a standard stem on this thing like my 31.8 170x5mm fsa gravity but im worried this will ride like a set of ape hangers. is the hot ticket a direct mount stem? and if so, how interchangeable are these? do the 888 stems fit the super t? hows about a boxxer stem? and whats the story on spacers, flat upper crowns vs high rise units? i see and hear all kinds of things reguarding bar height and id love to be at least close when it hits dirt.

    now with these dual clamp type stems, do i need a certain type of bar or do they all fit despite the bulged clamp area? ive got a fsa xc 300 i plan to use if it works. theres a buldge but its not huge.

    and lastly, where should i begin on spring setup? i hope the stock coils work but im ready to remove 1 side like i did on my 66rc. i hear some say they empty the air preload chambers to keep it plush too.

    thanx for any direction and experience you can share.
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  2. #2
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    CC, not apples to apples but I had an '04 super T, and I used a direct mount stem, and my opinion is that it's the shiznitz if your purpose is dh riding. Mine came equiped to use both hamdlebar diameters via a pair of shims [ in red, see pic below]. My sources tell me that the upper crown of your fork is compatible with all super t's, junoir t's and drop off forks, so any direct mount stem from those forks will fit the bolt pattern on your crown. My sources don't say if the 888 direct mount stems will fit your crown; that doesn't mean the bolt pattern is necessarily different. They just don't list it as being compatible.
    As for spacers, see my pic below. I liked having one under the crown for steep terrain:

    Last edited by Renegade; 06-26-2008 at 09:47 AM.
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  3. #3
    Just roll it......
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    Quote Originally Posted by Renegade
    CC, not apples to apples but I had an '04 super T, and I used a direct mount stem, and my opinion is that it's the shiznitz if your purpose is dh riding. Mine came equiped to use both hamdlebar diameters via a pair of shims [ in red, see pic below]. My sources tell me that the upper crown of your fork is compatible with all super t's, junoir t's and drop off forks, so any direct mount stem from those forks will fit the bolt pattern on your crown. My sources don't say if the 888 direct mount stems will fit your crown; that doesn't mean the bolt pattern is necessarily different. They just don't list it as being compatible.
    Rennies correct. 888 direct mount and Super T / Junior T direct mounts are different sizes. I also ran the direct mount on my '03 Super T and it was really nice. It had two sets of bolt holes to adjust length.....I believe 35mm and 50mm. If you were to pick up a used stem, be sure they include the shims as well as the stem fits 31.8 without shims. I really liked how solid the interface was on the fork and would recommend going with it.

    Cheers,
    EB

  4. #4
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    i had a nice chat with kris at go ride. that boy knows his stuff! was good to catch up with him as well havin not seen him since thc '06. so heres what i learned:

    the 888 stem is a 2 bolt mount on the crown w/ a pinch bolt on the steerer tube. it bolts on from below. theres a 53mm and 62.5mm stem and the feeling is those are likely for the 888.

    the super t stem is the same as the other "t" models (monster, jr and maybe the shiver too) as it mounts from below via 4 bolts. in both cases the stem is threaded, not the crown. it also looks like there are diff lengths. universal lists 4: 1-13mm, 55-67mm, both come with a shim for 25.4 or 31.8 bars.

    krispy says the shorty makes the bike sketchy and reccomends the longer version. he also told me, in my case, i might prefer a standard stem to the dm as my b/bkt is high enough that i wouldnt suffer the same "too high of a bar" feeling the guys with real dh bikes would as they have much lower b/bkts with the same a2c and bar height. im all for savin the $80 to $100 these things go for but ill keep a open mind for later.

    boxxer stems are the opposite and bolt into the crown with 4 bolts from above.

    below are all 3. marzocchi's super t, 888 and the e-13 boxxer but theres several more choices. and there ya have it!
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  5. #5
    Yay! Bikes !
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    I had the direct mount stem on my '03 Super T and ran it in the longer setting.
    I loved that fork on my RFX for DH days.

    Nick.

  6. #6
    trail fairy
    Reputation: trailadvent's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactuscorn
    so i went a scored a nib '07 super t rcv off hellbay today and now im lookin for some answers. the plan is to use this on the med '07 rfx for the 1 or 2 dh races i do a year and who knows what else that may come my way. the course ive run out here is pretty steep, full of skull sized rocks, big roots, a cpl big drops but not ultra techy. im 165lbs in boxers and 5'9" with a tempered amount of trail aggression. im no pansy but im not quite daring yet so i stick to 6 foot drops and avoid gaps. hope thats enough info.

    i figure I can run a standard stem on this thing like my 31.8 170x5mm fsa gravity but im worried this will ride like a set of ape hangers. is the hot ticket a direct mount stem? and if so, how interchangeable are these? do the 888 stems fit the super t? hows about a boxxer stem? and whats the story on spacers, flat upper crowns vs high rise units? i see and hear all kinds of things reguarding bar height and id love to be at least close when it hits dirt.

    now with these dual clamp type stems, do i need a certain type of bar or do they all fit despite the bulged clamp area? ive got a fsa xc 300 i plan to use if it works. theres a buldge but its not huge.

    and lastly, where should i begin on spring setup? i hope the stock coils work but im ready to remove 1 side like i did on my 66rc. i hear some say they empty the air preload chambers to keep it plush too.

    thanx for any direction and experience you can share.
    Good score, buddy, be interesting to see how ya go with that setup, should be lots of fun

    sounds like ya got the good oil from Krispy so I have nothing much to add there other than what the others have said re integrated stems, I'd pretty much always choose one for a triple for me the difference was huge, I loved it, never did any damage in crashes, only my rotors, levers seemed to take the brunt, my diablous bars took the punches well, but the control stiffness while riding is huge! I ran no spacers but then my setup was a low BB 64deg HA and 888 is no low A2C fork, but I loved the setup, ohh for a DHR I love big bikes

    I noticed it imeadiately, and Ive run some booty stems

    As for the sork setup, usual Marz stuff def dont run air preload it ruins the initial small bump feel, use the standard oil to break the fork in then dump it put in some high quality oil and then decide ya spring rate, I'd thought the standard would be fine for your wieght, but Im guessing to be honest from my headboard, set ya levels where ya feel best for you, the fork will feel so much better you wont believe it..

    Set and forget, Im not sure what ya adjustments are on there but I'll let ya figure that out as it pretty personal and maybe quite different on the RFX/trails courses you'll run!

    Enjoy CC great to see ya pushing it
    Last edited by trailadvent; 07-10-2008 at 01:20 AM.
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  7. #7
    Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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    thanx for the info. thats what i was hearin on the air preload. think i did the same on the 66rc but im not sure. that was a bytch to set up at 1st but some good help got me pointed in the right direction. this fork is much simpler with only rebound and compression circuts to fuss with other than spring rate and sag. should be cake.
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  8. #8
    trail fairy
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    Sweet, sounds the bomb post some piccs when ya got it mounted

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  9. #9
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    white will have to do. might see it week after next.
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  10. #10
    trail fairy
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactuscorn
    white will have to do. might see it week after next.
    Sweet will look nice look fwd to some DH piccs and that maxxis top again
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  11. #11
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    its here! wow, that was fast. mocked it up before i left for work and it feels pretty sweet, even before its broken in. fabbed a cool hydro line guide that should do the trick, looks good too. a few more things on the way and once they all get here ill have a dh rfx to compliment the xc rfx. are yer minds blown yet? pics to follow at a later date.
    Last edited by cactuscorn; 07-03-2008 at 01:47 PM.
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  12. #12
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    so im havin the same issue as i did on my old 66rc, not gettin enough sag. this is what i did, now you honchos tell me if my dogs in the right yard.

    i removed the left spring, dummy tube and the seat washer between them. i then inflated the left air chamber till it supported the riderless forks weight and no more. without this last step it would fall into its travel without me on it and the added air was so little it wouldnt even register on my low psi marzocchi pump. the right leg remains void of air. now i get 2.25" of sag vs. the 1.75 i got before the mod for 30% sag. maybe itll settle in a bit more once it breaks in and ill need to tune the chamber more.

    its tough bein a lightweight.
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  13. #13
    trail fairy
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    Im no Rene expert, but maybe dump that standard oil get some lightweight high quality oil in there, I found mine did take awhile to break in, my 66 was magic after the oil change, one of the few things Fox do is suppy multiple springs with there coil forks which helps, don't read the Marz thread in the DH forum its pretty depressing, I wish I coulda hung onto the 888 07 and kept my 66 06 now

    Guess others will have better ideas than me, my lard arse works well for me sometimes, guess some upside to more beef, you could always eat more Macca's not a fan myself
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  14. #14
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    was plannin on a oil swap after the race. the idea was to let the break in crap destroy the factory fluid then toss in some 5w or maybe a custom 5w/7.5w mix. i figure 2 days on the hill should do it.
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  15. #15
    trail fairy
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactuscorn
    was plannin on a oil swap after the race. the idea was to let the break in crap destroy the factory fluid then toss in some 5w or maybe a custom 5w/7.5w mix. i figure 2 days on the hill should do it.
    Ya good call normally how I'd do it too, just thinking maybe its to thick for yer weanie weight lol, maybe just needs more breaking in the seals are normaly a little sticky anyway in the inital stroke or at static I never noticed it when moving but at sag I did!

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