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  1. #1
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    New question here. OT again: '09 66 RC3 Disassembly?

    Well if we can have a 5+ page thread about what OS works best on the trail this thread can't be too far off topic.

    I want to pull the lowers off my '09 66 RC3 so I can install a o-ring as a travel indicator.
    I've dismantled many Zokes in the past, but not anything more recent than the '06 model. I started on my '09 but couldn't get the left side foot-nut loose. Searching MTBR and Google didn't turn up anything so perhaps someone can clue me in on this, and oil levels etc. and I'll shoot the steps as I get further into it.


    The top cap looks like previous models:


    Underneath, is the air valve a lock ring and the splines for the top cap.
    Again like previous models. This is the left leg which looks the same as the right leg on a 66SL RC2

    Since the top cap is attached to the RC3 cartridge, the cartridge nor the lowers can be removed from undoing the top alone.

    Like previous models, the top cap can be loosened by using a cassette lockring tool (sans center punch)

    It was way tighter than on my '06 66SL dammed near rounded it. So stay square over the top and get a good grip on the fork legs.
    This is just to loosen the top if you wanted to drain the oil from above. This alone won't get the cartridge out. I do not know if the snap ring is what keeps the cart attached to the top cap but it seems likely.

    Below on the right leg is the 15mm foot-nut for the right lower:

    I don't know what this is holding but on the '09 888, the top cap only has a compression nut for the spring thus there is no thru-rod that connects the uppers to the lowers. So I have no idea what this footnut is attached to at least not until I get the left side undone.

    The left lower leg has the compression adjuster which is held on by a single hex bolt:

    The detents are internal so there is no spring or ball to fall out on removal.

    Underneath is the adjuster shaft which also has a snap ring:

    Note the left foot-nut is 17mm wide and only 3mm tall. Because of the bevel in most sockets, that leaves ~1.5mm of engagement.

    To avoid stripping the flats it's best to file the bevel off the socket before using it:

    This is as far as I got. I started turning the footnut but it did not seem to get much looser. It didn't seem to get much tighter when going back the other way.

    So the question is how do I release the damper rod so I can pull the lowers? Undo upper or lower snap ring perhaps? I'd like to pull the lowers without draining the oil. I've seen it done by inverting the fork so the oil stays in the uppers, but that only works if you can keep the top caps on and sealed. I don't know if that can be done on '09s. If not it would be good to know what the oil levels should be. Of course I'll measure them anyway if I have to drain the fork.

    So anyone got some info? Tnx.
    Oh yeah and Happy New Year... gotta go downstairs and get ready!
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  2. #2
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    Reputation: Buzz's Avatar
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    Ever thought of using a zip tie instead of an o-ring? A loosely tied zip tie works well for me, and you can color coordinate them to your bike as well!!!

    Happy New Year!

    Buzz

  3. #3
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    Zip ties are for lazy choads. The truly coolio goes with the Os.
    I don't like the big buckles on the zips, they can bite into the dust wiper at full bottom-out.
    Besides I'd still like to know how to take it apart. Just cauze I'm a picky homer.

    tick tick... as I pass by the PC...
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  4. #4
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    I use the thin long zips you guys seem to like everything big, but I see Zilla's point in pulling it apr to see how it works and whats inside good call, the o ring might be OTT but its Zilla where talking about the original cat of bling, he brought gold out of the cold, the big GUY has style walks past the PC not the mac LOL..

    Just riding a muddy trail. . ..

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  5. #5
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    You have the hold the hex nut with a pair of needle-nose pliers whilst turning the foot nut.

    Happy New year.

  6. #6
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    You may have to hit those lower foot nuts with an impact to jar them loose.

  7. #7
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    Compress the fork, and then solidly make sure there's pressure holding it compressed at bottom. Then use "impact turns" with the wrench or ratchet repeatedly and steadily to break the nut loose and keep it spinning off the shaft, rather than turning the assembly.

    Alternatively, I've also had luck by forcing the fork at extension to stabilize the assembly.

  8. #8
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    Interesting. I understand the concept of using an impact to knock it loose but it would seem kind of tricky to get it tight again no?

    Tnx M123 I'll try a cressent and a pair of pliers first, if not then I guess I finally get to use that air ratchet that came with my compresser.
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  9. #9
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    Impact turns again to tighten. Very effective, then just tighten normally when you seat it.

    I would try and use impacts by handtools before going the air route.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerk_Chicken
    I would try and use impacts by handtools before going the air route.
    Awwwww...

    What about electric?
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  11. #11
    Just roll it......
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    If you had a triple pentium with a terra byte of memory running on Linux, you'd already have figured everything out, put on your travel indicator and sipping beers in time for some bowl game watching.

    EB

  12. #12
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    FYI....Zocchi uses an impact wrench Zilla
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by jncarpenter; 01-01-2009 at 10:59 AM.


  13. #13
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    Thats why the nuts always come back all f-ed up!

  14. #14
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    JNC that's a very helpful chunk of info! At least now I know what's inside.
    F'in impact?

    Oh hey, another observation. The saftey tang on the QR dosen't really engage the anti-backout teeth very well. It does not drop down or out far enough.

    The thickness of the spring arm hits the inside of the TA so only ~0.5 mm grabs the ratchet notch.


    Any CCW turn pressure causes it to twist and slip right up over the notch. Anyone else notice this? I'm not talking about reefing on it just lightly backing it out. I could dremel the saftey arm down a bit so it does not touch the TA ID so soon but I'd rather not have to go that route 1st.
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikezilla
    F'in impact?
    They come in all sizes


  16. #16
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    exploded diagram

    Would you happen to know where to get the 2009 888 RC3 exploded diagram?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by WaRpAtH View Post
    Would you happen to know where to get the 2009 888 RC3 exploded diagram?
    Yeah, I'd like one for an '09 55 RC3 also. Where do these come from? I couldn't find anything like that on the Marz site.

    A full step-by-step tutorial with pics like 'zilla did for the 66 RC3 would be really nice too.

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