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  1. #1
    MW
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    New scooter (non-Turner)

    Just back from the powder shop . . .



    Color is Tiger Drylac "Sparkle Sky Blue" . . .



    Raleigh XXIX 29er SS frame I picked up on craigslist
    Waltworks fork (long story, but it's almost perfect for this frame)
    Carver eccentric
    Mary bars

    Sadly, I don't get to complete the build until I complete my relocation (funny that the Park stand is almost the last thing to leave the apartment) . . . but I couldn't resist a quick mock-up before tucking everything into a box.

    Of course, I also discovered that PC'd handlebars don't play well with lock-on grips or pinch-clamp brake levers. Open to suggestions here, 'cuase I -clearly- thought that one through.

    Anyway, just thought I'd share the latest project.

    --MW
    Last edited by MW; 05-16-2008 at 02:23 AM.

  2. #2
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    Try some ESI Chunky grips, they'll slide on easily and dry slip free on the powdercoating.
    Happiness depends more on the inward disposition of mind than on outward circumstances. Benjamin Franklin

  3. #3
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    ya may have to tape off the paint just at the end of yer planned control mount points and do a little light sanding. with a little pre planning, some careful measuring and a touch of luck, youll never know. looks pretty cool! i dig blue.
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  4. #4
    MW
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    Masking and sanding was my first thought . . . though it'll be tough with the pinch-clamp brakes, because I run them a ways inboard of the grips. It could be done, though: slide 'em on over the grip area, pry the clamp open a bit to get over the section of powder, then clamp 'em in their own special sanded section.

    I was also thinking I could hit the levers and grips with a light hone. Not sure that'd by me enough clearance, or if the grips are up for it (they're ODI and are a fairly rigid plastic on the inside).

    --MW

  5. #5
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    idea #1 sounds better. even if ya sanded the whole length and did a nice job of it, as i know ya will, itll look cool. dont remove all the paint, just enough to get the od back to spec. that should leave ya with a smooth, flat look.
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  6. #6
    Silence and Thunder...
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    Sweet! I just started researching the whole 29er-SS thing and am considering getting a XXIX "stimulus" bike...
    ...every day sends future to past...

  7. #7
    MW
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    Quote Originally Posted by xjbebop
    Sweet! I just started researching the whole 29er-SS thing and am considering getting a XXIX "stimulus" bike...
    It's pretty much the only mass-produced SS 29er going that's not suspension-corrected out of the box. If that's what you're after, I'd say it's worth a look. As complete bikes, they sell used on craigslist and ebay for ~$400-450. Decent factory parts spec, too.

    For my purposes, it was an issue of matching that Walt fork (built for another, now abandoned, project) to an inexpensive frame. On paper, it worked out well: the XXIX ships with a 430mm a-c / 40mm offset fork, and my Walt is 425 / 48. I cheated and used a King +5mm baseplate to bring the a-c back to the stock number. Trail with my setup comes in just a hair over 74mm: quite a bit shorter than the factory XXIX (around 82mm, IIRC), but within 1mm of the Niner and Monocog Flight geometry. I figure that's good enough company for me.

    Since it's my first 29er, and since I've mucked around with the front-end geo, I'm really curious to see how this bike rides when it's all done. The eventual plan is for two wheelsets: one with 700x35 road tires for tooling around town (about as close as I'll ever stomach to a cruiser), and a second for the trails.

    --MW
    Last edited by MW; 05-16-2008 at 11:11 AM.

  8. #8
    MW
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactuscorn
    idea #1 sounds better. even if ya sanded the whole length and did a nice job of it, as i know ya will, itll look cool. dont remove all the paint, just enough to get the od back to spec. that should leave ya with a smooth, flat look.
    In an effort to appear as ill-equipped for this undertaking as I can possibly make myself appear . . . how would you recommend going about the sanding? Seems like a tall order: knocking down the o.d. just enough, evenly, and without getting down to the metal? Figure if I hold the wet/dry in my hands, I'm bound to get finger-pressure irregularities . . . ugly little patches of bare metal and whatnot. But maybe a proper sanding block, painstakingly used like a planer? I could see that.

    Really kicking myself for not thinking about this earlier. The bar was kind of an afterthought ("Oh, you'll do the bar for $15? Sure!"), though I do like the color-matched effect.

    --MW

  9. #9
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    id try the hand method, twistin back n forth as i move inside to outside and back again simultainiously. stop and check for high/low spots often as if you were usin a file on a mis sized part. a painter may have a better plan than mine.
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  10. #10
    Silence and Thunder...
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    "It's pretty much the only mass-produced SS 29er going that's not suspension-corrected out of the box."

    ...I believe the '08 model is, along w/ better paint...
    fwiw...
    ...every day sends future to past...

  11. #11
    MW
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    Quote Originally Posted by xjbebop
    "It's pretty much the only mass-produced SS 29er going that's not suspension-corrected out of the box."

    ...I believe the '08 model is, along w/ better paint...
    fwiw...
    The '08 XXIX SS is suspension corrected? Totally could've missed that when doing my research, but . . .



    Just eyeballin' it, that still doesn't look like a corrected fork . . . just not much daylight over the top of the tire. I had read about the new paint and logos, though . . . both of which sound pretty sweet compared to the originals.

    I know they offer a geared version (XXIX+G): I believe it's the exact same frame with an 80mm Reba (38mm offset) up front . . . which would kick the trail out something fierce (not crunching the numbers, I'd guess 90mm+). That said, the Raleigh-published geometry doesn't indicate -any- differences between the two models.

    Probably worth a call to Raleigh if you want a corrected 29er SS . . . just to be sure, one way or the other.

    --MW

  12. #12
    Silence and Thunder...
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    I'm not even sure yet if I want want at all...see my other post...
    ...every day sends future to past...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MW
    In an effort to appear as ill-equipped for this undertaking as I can possibly make myself appear . . . how would you recommend going about the sanding? Seems like a tall order: knocking down the o.d. just enough, evenly, and without getting down to the metal? Figure if I hold the wet/dry in my hands, I'm bound to get finger-pressure irregularities . . . ugly little patches of bare metal and whatnot. But maybe a proper sanding block, painstakingly used like a planer? I could see that.

    Really kicking myself for not thinking about this earlier. The bar was kind of an afterthought ("Oh, you'll do the bar for $15? Sure!"), though I do like the color-matched effect.

    --MW
    do you have enough room to spread the clamps enough to slip a thin piece of inner tube under the clamp? The compressed rubber ought to grip the PC'd bar surface pretty well.
    Happiness depends more on the inward disposition of mind than on outward circumstances. Benjamin Franklin

  14. #14
    Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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    i think ya missed the bus on this 1 glg. the pc added to the od, not took away from it. the idea is to remove some paint so the levers and lock on grips will once again fit over the bar.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactuscorn
    i think ya missed the bus on this 1 glg. the pc added to the od, not took away from it. the idea is to remove some paint so the levers and lock on grips will once again fit over the bar.
    CC - I'm fully on the 'bus' ([SIZE="1"]though it's the short yellow one[/SIZE]) . There is some expansion room on most pinch clamps I've worked with and ESI Chunky's will stick to anything.

    Just a thought, I put a rubber 'shim' underneath a cyclometer on a steel fork for my commuter just to prohibit rubbing and rust when I move to Miami.
    Happiness depends more on the inward disposition of mind than on outward circumstances. Benjamin Franklin

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