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  1. #1
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    New question here. New Question(s) about Chain suck

    Recently purchased a used 04 Burner and have been riding the ever loving heck out of it, but I'm running into two problems that I can't seem to fix or properly diagnose:

    1- I am getting the chain suck between the chainrings and rear subframe. It's a real pita to get it unstuck, so I'm wondering if there is a solution to that.

    2- When descending and pedaling, every now and then I'll get through 3/4 to a full crank spin without my chain in contact with the rd, so it's just spinning freely. Is that normal, or is something terribly wrong that could cause more issues in the future?

    I've been road riding for 3+ years and have never experienced either of these issues before, so any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuffguy
    Recently purchased a used 04 Burner and have been riding the ever loving heck out of it, but I'm running into two problems that I can't seem to fix or properly diagnose:

    1- I am getting the chain suck between the chainrings and rear subframe. It's a real pita to get it unstuck, so I'm wondering if there is a solution to that.

    2- When descending and pedaling, every now and then I'll get through 3/4 to a full crank spin without my chain in contact with the rd, so it's just spinning freely. Is that normal, or is something terribly wrong that could cause more issues in the future?

    I've been road riding for 3+ years and have never experienced either of these issues before, so any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance!
    Sounds like you need a drivetrain tune-up / replacement and the rear hub might need an overhaul.

  3. #3
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    I also have an 04 Burner. When the chain gets stuck between the frame and chain ring you must FLEX the frame to get the chain out. It gets in there when the frame is active. Push down on the seat and pull the chain out while flexed.
    I don't understand what the second problem is, not had it.
    agmtb

  4. #4
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    Chain is probably too long.

  5. #5
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    Had a similar problem with my 5 spot, chain and chain rings were worn out. had to replace them

  6. #6
    Never enough time to ride
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    Check your chain rings for sure, make sure they are not worn out or shark fin shaped. If your getting enough chain flop to make the chain come off the rear cassette your chain is too long. But from what you described it sounds like the free hub might be worn out and slipping before it engages.

    If you could post up some pics of your drivetrain, specifically your chainrings, and your chain when it's in the smal/small combo it would help.

    happy trails...

    squish
    Get out and ride!

  7. #7
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    Here are some pics of the rear and front rings as well as a smallest to smallest full chain pic. The chain is brand new, and I matched it link for link on the one that came with it.. It looks like it might have the tiniest bit of sag to it, but I don't know what normal should look like.


  8. #8
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    any time you replace the chain, you should also replace the rear cassette. are you sure the H screw is adjusted properly?

  9. #9
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    Screws are seemingly adjusted perfectly. I have no issues whatsoever when it comes to shifting up or down, it was just this free floating sensation of the chain not connecting when pedaling down a hill.

    The front chainrings, upon closer inspection, look pretty ragged, but the rear didn't seem too bad. Seems strange to need to change the rear cassette as often as a chain.. my road bike has 5k miles on the same rear cog, and I've been through four chains and no shifting issues. But, as I stated, I'm still new to the mtb thing, and I don't really know a lot of the wear and tear issues of a mtb vs a roadie.

  10. #10
    Never enough time to ride
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    The chainrings look alright, but kind of hard to tell from the little photo and so does the cassette. But the chain looks like it droops a tiny bit there, not a good thing. It looks like the derailleur is completely relaxed and you actually want tension on the jockey cage all the time. I would pull one link out of the chain and see what you get.

    happy trails...

    squish
    Get out and ride!

  11. #11
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    Dropped one link from the chain, it looks a lot better than before... No sag, and there is now tension on the derailleur pully. Gonna test it out this weekend. Thanks for the insights and ideas.. Much better results from a first post here than compared to the road bike forums for other issues!!!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuffguy
    Screws are seemingly adjusted perfectly. I have no issues whatsoever when it comes to shifting up or down, it was just this free floating sensation of the chain not connecting when pedaling down a hill.

    The front chainrings, upon closer inspection, look pretty ragged, but the rear didn't seem too bad. Seems strange to need to change the rear cassette as often as a chain.. my road bike has 5k miles on the same rear cog, and I've been through four chains and no shifting issues. But, as I stated, I'm still new to the mtb thing, and I don't really know a lot of the wear and tear issues of a mtb vs a roadie.
    Is the rear cassette an Sram?

    I had a 970 cassette on a bike and used decent sram chains (971) and a park chain stretch checker so I changed the chain before it needed it, and it would still jump on the rear cassette whenever I changed the chain so so I would have to buy a new cassette.

    When using similair quality sram chains on a Shimano XT cassette and replacing the chain whenever the checker told me to I never had to change the rear cassette.

    So no more sram cassettes for me.

    Not even sure the chains are as good as they used to be.

  13. #13
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    A new chain and an old cassette might give you meshing issues but should not give you suck problems - that's more about chain ring to chain interface.

    I had a similar problem with my old bike. On one ti456 with brand new middleburn cranks & chainring with brand new chain. I tried a few different makes of chain but nothing helped. I had heard that a small amount of chainsuck was often an issue with the chainrings I was using (the hardcoat, slickshift versions) and the gap between the chainstay and the chainring was tiny - just under a chain width unflexed but opened up under load to accept the chain. In the end I solved the problem as the frame had a 68mm BB shell by putting the spacer on the drive side rather than the non drive so the gap was always more than a chain width. Did not seem to effect the chain line at all.

  14. #14
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    oops

    meant to post a new thread, not comment on yours. sorry.
    Last edited by grundy; 04-16-2010 at 10:54 AM.

  15. #15
    Code Burr
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    I've had the same issue for over 5 years on 3 non dw turners and loads of gear. Seems to happen whenever i'm descending at speed w some chop or transition to a sudden climb. As if the frame is compressing and throwing a loop of chain towards the crank. I've tried shortening the chain to the point of not being able to shift to #1 and it doesnt help. I've tried rotating the front mech a tiny bit either direction without luck. Lately its been dropping off 2 into granny more often than wrapping the shell. Then I just shift twice and i'm back to 2.

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