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  1. #1
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    My 'new' 2002 RFX has arrived

    This bike replaces my DW 5Spot. I think by now you know my opinion on that bike It's a great bike, but just not for me. Maybe I'm too old-school for the newer suspension designs, maybe I'm too picky. Maybe I'm dumb.





    Things I have to change:
    - longer brake lines. The ones on now are barely long enough.
    - Shorter stem, this is a 100mm stem, but the frame is 1" longer then my 5Spot.
    - Try the shock from the 5Spot, maybe that works ok too and would save a few oz (frame is 4320g or 9.5 lbs).

    I tested the RFX in the parking lot and it feels great, better then the 5Spot in some respect. I was worried that it would sag under power like my old Specialized Enduro did, but I noticed nothing of that. Need more testing though. I'm not 100% ok with the color, the rear needs to be the same color as the front. But being in Europe, it's not easy (or cost-effective) to have it repainted by Turner.

  2. #2
    bump and grind
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    Nice!

    Quote Originally Posted by zonoskar
    I'm not 100% ok with the color, the rear needs to be the same color as the front. But being in Europe, it's not easy (or cost-effective) to have it repainted by Turner.
    I actually prefer the silver rear triangle.

    Good looking bike.

  3. #3
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    A proper old school RFX should always have a polished rear end.
    More bikes than you can point a broken spoke at...

  4. #4
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    wow, such a timeless frame...

  5. #5
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    I have always appreciated the 02 RFX for its great lines and toughness, Enjoy

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by cobym2
    I actually prefer the silver rear triangle.

    Good looking bike.
    I also like the raw finish of the rear, so I'm also contemplating stripping the front frame and leaving it raw. Anyone experience with removing powder coat? Is normal chemical paint stripper enough, or do I have to use something more aggressive?

  7. #7
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    use any stripping agent that calls itself aircraft stripper.
    when you're done, and you buff it out with fine steel wool, it may look like this:

    ****

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Renegade
    use any stripping agent that calls itself aircraft stripper.
    when you're done, and you buff it out with fine steel wool, it may look like this:
    Wow, that's a nice look. I'll definately think about that.

    How about painting over the powder coat with some wet 2K paint? Do I need a special base coat or does that simply not work at all? I have some experience in painting cars, so it shouldn't be too much of a problem.

  9. #9
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    The color is really nice in the sun. Maybe this isn't such a bad choice at all...


  10. #10
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    One of the biggest things I noticed riding a DW 5-spot compared to the Horst Link version, is that the rear doesn't squat when the climbs get techy. The DW was just power to the ground. My HL Spot squats like female hobo with polyuria.
    Team Sanchez; "Always hittin the upper lip"

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chingon
    One of the biggest things I noticed riding a DW 5-spot compared to the Horst Link version, is that the rear doesn't squat when the climbs get techy. The DW was just power to the ground.
    On my little test on a parkinggarage incline (10%), I didn't notice this trait. It wasn't very technical of course but the rear suspension didn't squat. Maybe it only appears while really putting effort into the climb like on techy climbs. But shouldn't that be more because you can't pedal in a nice and controlled way and the shifting of your body weight activates the suspension? The anti-squat of the DW counteracts this effectively, but also is responsible for all the negative things I feel about the riding quality of the 5Spot in my opinion. I love the DW 5Spot on climbs (except when out of the saddle on the granny gear) it always seemed to go so effortless. I hope the RFX will be only marginally worse

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by zonoskar
    The color is really nice in the sun. Maybe this isn't such a bad choice at all...
    I love the colour. I'd leave it as is and just ride it.
    More bikes than you can point a broken spoke at...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tassie Devil
    I love the colour. I'd leave it as is and just ride it.
    Yes, me too. But then again, I really love this bronze color:



    Or this copper color:



    I think either one would go great with the red comonents I have on the bike.

  14. #14
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    Considering going 5.5" rockers ?
    All about the ride

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Renegade
    use any stripping agent that calls itself aircraft stripper.
    when you're done, and you buff it out with fine steel wool, it may look like this:


    How does this finish hold up? I am guessing just a rub down with steel wool every now and then? Do you have recommendations for a particular aircraft stripper? I think this finish would hold up extremely well in the AZ desert.
    Employed by Pivot Cycles - www.pivotcycles.com

  16. #16
    Code Burr
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chingon
    One of the biggest things I noticed riding a DW 5-spot compared to the Horst Link version, is that the rear doesn't squat when the climbs get techy. The DW was just power to the ground. My HL Spot squats like female hobo with polyuria.
    Did your HL version have a dhx air and the DW have a rp2? The dhx is notorious for squatting on climbs. I've gotten mine sorted out by resetting the IFP depth, bleeding it, and adding another shim to the compression stack. I'm pretty happy with it now and it climbs way better than before.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiSS'er
    How does this finish hold up? I am guessing just a rub down with steel wool every now and then? Do you have recommendations for a particular aircraft stripper? I think this finish would hold up extremely well in the AZ desert.
    tiSS'er I just walked into the hardware store and purchased what they had on the shelf; the brand is called Klean strip. I don't think there was anything special about it.
    Yes, a little touch-up with fine steel wool now and then is all thats needed. I liked the finish for a while, but then I started longing for some color.
    ****

  18. #18
    Moosehead
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chingon
    My HL Spot squats like female hobo with polyuria.
    Glad that the advanced med degree is paying off.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by greenmacheen
    Considering going 5.5" rockers ?
    Not really. What benefits would that bring?

  20. #20
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    How are the Revs working out on the bike? Got coil Lyriks on my 6-pack, and was thinking of replacing it with something lighter/steeper. The small bump sensitivity on the Lyriks isn't great. Do you find your Revs enough to match the rear end? How much sag do you run?

  21. #21
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    how do you like the nobby nicks on the rfx? I' thinking of picking up a set for mine

  22. #22
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    @pressendye: Small bump compliancy is not something the Revs excell at. They matched the rear of the 5Spot fairly well, but the RFX's rear suspension is much plusher. You feel the front wheel going over the bump, but never feel it at the rear wheel. This tendency might also have something to do with the slack head-angle and rearward weight bias because this is present in all of the big bikes I have had. One had a Fox 36 Talas and the other a Manitou Sherman. None matched the rear suspension of the bike I ran them on (Specialized Enduro and Alutech Wildsau).

    @JC: The nobby nic is my favorite tire for all conditions except dry stuff (I use Racing Ralph's for that). But that might be because I have never tried Nevagals or some Maxxis tires that many of you guys here like. My LBS doesn't carry those.

  23. #23
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    @JC: The nobby nic is my favorite tire for all conditions except dry stuff (I use Racing Ralph's for that). But that might be because I have never tried Nevagals or some Maxxis tires that many of you guys here like. My LBS doesn't carry those.[/QUOT I am actually on the fence between the nick'c and the Ralph's When you say "dry stuff" do you mean hardpack or dusty/sandy Here in the pnw from June/July on the bulk of trails are fast hardpack so if your saying you like the Ralph's better for that That would be helpfull

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by big JC
    I am actually on the fence between the nick'c and the Ralph's When you say "dry stuff" do you mean hardpack or dusty/sandy Here in the pnw from June/July on the bulk of trails are fast hardpack so if your saying you like the Ralph's better for that That would be helpfull
    I guess Racing Ralph is definately better for hardpack trails, but I have no real experience on hardpack trails. When it gets dry in Holland, the trails get very sandy and loose. Not like concrete anyways, which is what I associate with hardpack. For those loose sandy conditions, I prefer a wide tire with not too many tall knobs and limited grip. RR has low rolling resistance, much lower then NN, and should do great on hardpack. It does on pavement. I occasionally ride marathons in the Ardennes, which is more rocky and steeper then my local trails. RRs do fine in that departement too as long as it's not too wet. I have skills enough to make the tire work in those wet conditions too, but I prefer NNs at those times.
    Last edited by zonoskar; 04-02-2010 at 03:15 AM.

  25. #25
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    Bought a 2010 Fox 36 Talas R for the RFX but ran into clearance issues with the Hope floating rotors in combination with Chris King hubs. It seems like not every manufacturer sticks to the industry standards here. What to do? I could file down the postmount on the forks, or change to the non-floating rotor version. But are there other options? Maybe an offset axle from CK?

  26. #26
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    I've heard of this. I switched from king hubs to hope hubs some years back and never ran into this issue. Really weird considering everything is supposed to be ISO these days...

  27. #27
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    same issue i had with my 2010 talas 36. I could not get the hope rotors to clear the post mount for the caliper. my fix was to instal the new 2 piece shimano xt/saint rotors. I didn't try another brand of rotors.

  28. #28
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    Went for a test ride today, used an Avid rotor I had laying around. These forks are not very smooth, very high stiction in the stantions. Hopefully that will go away after a short beak-in period.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by zonoskar
    Went for a test ride today, used an Avid rotor I had laying around. These forks are not very smooth, very high stiction in the stantions. Hopefully that will go away after a short beak-in period.
    Open it up and make sure there is oil. More than a few have found insufficient lube oil in the lowers. The seals need time to break in also.

  30. #30
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    I forgot to show pictures....







    The fork is starting to break-in, but I'll open it up anyways.

  31. #31
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    So glad you are enjoying my old beauty.
    Lets just hope the new RFX can fill the void that selling this has created.

    ali

  32. #32
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    Time to resurrect a really old thread I finally got around to stripping the frame. What a pain in the a$$ that was. The new environmentally friendly paint stripper doesn't really work, all it does is soften the paint. A lot of effort is required to actually get the paint off, especially in the nicks and crannies and welds. But it looks stunning I must say. Also visible are all the marks from creating the frame. I was really careful not to scratch the frame while stripping, so every mark you see is from Dave himself













    Since I got a Specialized Enduro 29er, I'm not sure what to do with this one. I've put it up on ebay, but I'm inclined to put it in storage since it such a nice bike. Maybe converting to 650b would be a good idea. I sold the fork (I really don't like Fox forks anymore) and the wheels, so the bike is not rideable anymore. All my other bikes have 29er wheels, so cannot borrow any either

  33. #33
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    Great job! I've been wanting to that on my frame as well. How long did it take you to strip the paint?

  34. #34
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    Slap a Boxxer on the front and have yourself a sick park bike.
    BTW, I don't think Dave has ever welded up a frame himself. Cheers.



    _MK

    Before you diagnose yourself with depression or low self-esteem, first make sure that you are not just surrounded by a*holes

  35. #35
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    Wow! Those are the original 2002 seatstays that is awesome! At some point they will crack at the cutouts like most of the rest of the 60 or so 02 Rfx's. But it's really cool to see there are some still out there. Mine cracked and I now run 6 pack stays great bike

  36. #36
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    It took ages I think I started 3 weeks ago. I didn't work on it every day, but I think I spend 6 days and 2-3 hours per day on it. There still are some small patches (mainly at the cablestops) which I didn't get properly.

    @artsn: I think these stays are reworked, as the cutouts at the discmount are filled in. Or do you mean at the rear pivot? But do you mean to tell there were only 60 of these RFXs made?

    @MK_: I might do that. But then again, I'd have to get wheels, brakes, etc


  37. #37
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    The rear pivot and yeah there were only about 60 made. They were expensive for a bike that got beat the crap out of and there were alot of guys running super 8's and bullits that cost a grand less.

  38. #38
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    Ooops. I was wrong the disc tabs were cutout. I just looked at mine and the chainstays are cut out to

  39. #39
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    Hmm, only 60 made. I should hang onto it then. Maybe buy a Pike 27.5 and some brakes.

  40. #40
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    Zonoskar, what size is your frame?
    ****

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Renegade View Post
    Zonoskar, what size is your frame?
    It's a 19.5" with 23.6" TT. I just found out there won't be a Pike with straight 1 1/8" steerer. Bummer At least not this year.

  42. #42
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    That's nice bra. Blueee

  43. #43
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    My 'new' 2002 RFX has arrived

    Boss deville

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