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  1. #1
    "El Whatever"
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    Mod Central Help Req'ed.... AM1 travel extension?

    Hi Hot-Rodders!

    Anyone knows if the AM1 110-130, shares the same chassis as the 130-150?
    Can the 130-150mm cart's be used with the 110-130mm chassis?

    I may be getting a 130-150 AM1 (not new, offer I can't refuse), but I'd like to get it down... I'd have to find someone with a short one that would like to extend the travel, but then the question arises... are the long carts suitable for the "short" chassis?

    Thanks!
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  2. #2
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    ah dont think so. ah think there's not enough slider/stanchion/bushing overlap to boost the travel by 20mm.

  3. #3
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    It's not the stanchions that's the problem. It's the lowers. The AM1 is one of the few Zokes that has different lowers on the shorter travel versions. If you wanted to go to the longer travel version you'd need the longer damper set as well as the standard Zoke lower design.

    The 110-130mm AM1 have a recessed footnut bolt position that make it impossible to use the longer rods. Do a search for posts on this by jncarpenter as he found out after he bought a short AM1 and couldn't frankenfork it with the 20mm through lowers.
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  4. #4
    "El Whatever"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikezilla
    It's not the stanchions that's the problem. It's the lowers. The AM1 is one of the few Zokes that has different lowers on the shorter travel versions. If you wanted to go to the longer travel version you'd need the longer damper set as well as the standard Zoke lower design.

    The 110-130mm AM1 have a recessed footnut bolt position that make it impossible to use the longer rods. Do a search for posts on this by jncarpenter as he found out after he bought a short AM1 and couldn't frankenfork it with the 20mm through lowers.
    Thanks, 'Zilla!!

    I'll look into Jncarpenter's posts.

    I think I'm left with having to buy a used or new ETA/TAS cartridge for 130-110. The hard route would be:

    1.- Tear open TST
    2.- Insert a spacer between the rebound rod and the bottom nut of the cartridge's body (not the bottom of the cartridge's shaft. This is quite a challenge.
    3.- Use a shorter 130mm (or whatever length desired, mated with the spacer mentioned above) on the ETA/TAS.

    In that way, you can shorten the cartridges and avoid preloading the spring or overextending the fork.
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  5. #5
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    Have you seen how the carts are layed out? I'm pretty sure there's no practical way to fit one length cart in a fork with the lowers for the other.... G'luck anyway.

    I will eventually be puttting my 130-150mm Z1AM up for sale... it might be cheaper and easier than buying the longer carts and making them fit. But if you don't have a 20mm hub it's probably of no use to you.
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  6. #6
    "El Whatever"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikezilla
    Have you seen how the carts are layed out? I'm pretty sure there's no practical way to fit one length cart in a fork with the lowers for the other.... G'luck anyway.

    I will eventually be puttting my 130-150mm Z1AM up for sale... it might be cheaper and easier than buying the longer carts and making them fit. But if you don't have a 20mm hub it's probably of no use to you.
    'Zilla... I still need to look at the carts and lowers. Iwas making asumptions.

    Also, I need to go the other way around. I'll have long one (130-150) and would like to shorten it down to 110-130.

    There's also a third option that is to permanently run the fork at 130 with deeper than usual sag, and prevent bottoming with oil height and control bob with the TST. Which seems the most sensible way around... but you know how it goes...
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  7. #7
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    Okay I think I understand what you are saying... you have a 130 -150mm fork and you want to run it in the 110-130mm range. Gotcha.
    I would think too much sag would make it sloppy and divy but I don't know for sure.

    Hmmmm tricky. Let me know what you find out.
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  8. #8
    thats right living legend
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warp
    'Zilla... I still need to look at the carts and lowers. Iwas making asumptions.

    Also, I need to go the other way around. I'll have long one (130-150) and would like to shorten it down to 110-130.

    There's also a third option that is to permanently run the fork at 130 with deeper than usual sag, and prevent bottoming with oil height and control bob with the TST. Which seems the most sensible way around... but you know how it goes...

    Warp just run it at 130 regular sag for a while, I mean once you get used to it you might like the extra travel, and get used to it on the climbs.

    I wouldn't think that an AM1 would gank out a SB "that" much.... could be wrong?

  9. #9
    "El Whatever"
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackagness
    Warp just run it at 130 regular sag for a while, I mean once you get used to it you might like the extra travel, and get used to it on the climbs.

    I wouldn't think that an AM1 would gank out a SB "that" much.... could be wrong?

    I dunno... good idea, though.

    It's just that at 500mm flat and 125mm travel, the SB feels a bit wheelie happy on climbs. It feels good at the saddle, though. The Zoke at 130mm is 18mm longer and a hair less than half inch at sag.

    I'll ride it first, modify later. I'll have two forks now, so I can take the luxury of swapping and experiment.
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  10. #10
    "El Whatever"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikezilla
    Okay I think I understand what you are saying... you have a 130 -150mm fork and you want to run it in the 110-130mm range. Gotcha.
    I would think too much sag would make it sloppy and divy but I don't know for sure.

    Hmmmm tricky. Let me know what you find out.
    'Zilla... I read a thread where Sean mentions 110-130 and 130-150 AM's are not swappable. And that's enough for me.

    I was thinking that for shorten the AM1 150-130, you have only two options:

    1.- Put in a 110-130 ETA/TAS cart... but you mention this is not possible. Scratch it off.
    2.- Going medieval with it... swap the main spring on the ETA for a 130mm one, and tear open the TST and put an spacer where I'm showing on the attached pic. But as said, that would be major surgery.

    None guarantees success, though... but there was no much future for ZAM's, was it?
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  11. #11
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    Actually I was trying to say the 150mm carts wouldn't fit in a 130mm chassis... I do not know what would prevent you from putting 130mm carts in a 150mm chassis... you might only need to futz with the foot nut mountings since the 130mm sliders have a recessed foot nut mounting. Maybe ask jncarpenter he's had a good look at both forks.

    As for using the 130-150 on a SB... hey why not? Lots of people were satisfied with that setup on other 5" travel bikes. It's worth a try... are you running the SB at 5"? If it's wheelie happy at only 125mm then maybe your rear shock is set too soft and the rear is squatting too much when your weight shifts to the rear. I know I had a very tough time keeping a Pike down even in it's shortest travel setting before I realized my rear shock was undersprung and squatting excessively.
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  12. #12
    "El Whatever"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikezilla
    Actually I was trying to say the 150mm carts wouldn't fit in a 130mm chassis... I do not know what would prevent you from putting 130mm carts in a 150mm chassis... you might only need to futz with the foot nut mountings since the 130mm sliders have a recessed foot nut mounting. Maybe ask jncarpenter he's had a good look at both forks.

    I'll PM him....

    Quote Originally Posted by Bikezilla
    As for using the 130-150 on a SB... hey why not? Lots of people were satisfied with that setup on other 5" travel bikes. It's worth a try... are you running the SB at 5"? If it's wheelie happy at only 125mm then maybe your rear shock is set too soft and the rear is squatting too much when your weight shifts to the rear. I know I had a very tough time keeping a Pike down even in it's shortest travel setting before I realized my rear shock was undersprung and squatting excessively.
    Doh!!!! I had never thought about that! It's true ... I'll make it ride higher on the rear.

    Yeah, I run the Blade at 5" (only travel setting for my rockers and Float shock) and use a bit more than the 25% travel.

    Anyway, I think I'll be happy with the Blade/AM1 combo.

    I recently went from a 5th Air to a Fox Float (thanks to a blown 5th, not a surprise I guess) and can't be happier. Plusher, more traction but the trade off is a bit more bob (not worrying, though) and not as nice on big hits.... but I rarely hit it big. The fork sees more action around here.
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