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  1. #1
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    How's my Chainline? (Highline)

    I'm looking to get some advice on my chainline. It's been a real PITA having to disassemble my cranks (RF evolve DH) and move spacers around but I think I finally got a decent chainline.

    Race faces' instructions said to use one 2.5mm spacer (between the frames bb-shell and bb cup) on the non-drive side and two 2.5mm spacers on the drive side. With this setup, the chainline looked pretty lousy. After playing around with the spacer placements I ended up using two 2.5mm spacers on the non-drive side and one 2.5mm spacer on the drive side (exact opposite of RF's instructions). I also had to use one of the 1mm spacers on each side of the spindle inorder to take up the free space on the spindle and get a good chainline. With this setup, the chainline looked pretty good to me (but i'm no expert).

    Thanks for the help.
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  2. #2
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    Also:

    The non-drive side cranks is pushed out about 1/8" further than the drive side crank arm. It's not a huge difference, but I don't see any reason why they can't be symmetrical.
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  3. #3
    No, that's not phonetic
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    What gear combos do you spend the most time in?

    What gear combos are you putting the most load on the drivetrain in?
    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

  4. #4
    Lay off the Levers
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    That chain looks straight to me. But IDK anything about chainlines.

    FM mentioned earlier that DT suggested your setup. 2 on the NDS +1 on the DS.
    I think that is rather dependant on the crankset you're using, as I had very little spindle insertion on my GravityLight cranks. For that setup I went with one spacer on each side.(or more specifically one spacer and a BB mounted E13 DRS)

    This is as good a place as any to ask:
    Do NDS spacers effect chainline?

    It would seem to me that they only affect the space btwn the NDS crank arm and the chainstay. (clearance) AFAIK the DS is only affected by the spacers on that side. No?
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  5. #5
    FM
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    I had raceface evolve DH's for the first 6 months I owned my highline, unfortunately I can't recall what spacers I was running.

    Now running saints, as BZ said, (2) 2.5mms spacers ND-side and (1) spacer D-side has been the ticket- opposite of what shimano suggested.

    Using the 1mm spacers on the axle concerns me, but I'm not positive what you're describing. The evolves seem to be a taper-fit, with the orange foam spacer compressing to absorb any slop between the crank-arm and bearing. I would think adding spacers might cause the crank to pre-load the bearings which will wear your BB out fast. But maybe I'm not understanding your set-up.

  6. #6
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    FM:

    the evolve DH comes with four 1mm spacers (white). The instructions state that these should be used to get the proper chainline. I would rather have left the one I used on the non-drive side off, as this would've kept my cranks more centered (see pics from my second post) but I had to use it otherwise there would've been alittle bit of spindle exposed.
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  7. #7
    FM
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEstinkyrider
    FM:

    the evolve DH comes with four 1mm spacers (white). .
    Oh yes.... I had forgot about those.... it's been so long since I used the evolves, not able to offer much help sorry.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tscheezy
    What gear combos do you spend the most time in?

    What gear combos are you putting the most load on the drivetrain in?

    i probably spend more time in the lower gears and certainly alot more load goes into the lower gears for climbing hills.. your questions made me think that i'd want to move the chainline a couple mm's to the left.. but the only way to do that is to put more spacers on the non-drive side of the spindle, which only worsen the situation I mentioned in my second post.

    I think this is the best it will get.

  9. #9
    FM
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEstinkyrider
    i probably spend more time in the lower gears and certainly alot more load goes into the lower gears for climbing hills.. your questions made me think that i'd want to move the chainline a couple mm's to the left.. but the only way to do that is to put more spacers on the non-drive side of the spindle, which only worsen the situation I mentioned in my second post.

    I think this is the best it will get.
    You know, there is maybe another option- center your cranks a bit and use chainring spacers to move your chainrings back inboard? As along as the distance between rings remains consistent (and gap between middle ring and bashguard is at least narrow enough to prevent your chain getting wedged in between) it might be a good solution.

    I may explore this with my RFX, seems like mixing truvativ cranks & BB with shimano rings has everything too far outboard.

  10. #10
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    Looks pretty good to me (at least from those pics). I had to space mine out differently than the recommendation on a Spot with XT cranks to get it right. Here's some good reading on the subject: http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=110

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