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  1. #1
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    Idea! HL Chainline & Gravity Light Cranks

    Hey howdy,

    I just thought I'd post something I encountered with setting up my Gravity Light cranks, quad bearings and 83MM shell Highline.

    I noticed my chainrings seemed too far outboard even with just the 2.5mm BB-mounted DRS chainguide. The chain has been pulling off the middle ring when in the largest two cogs, and it dropped off once and got wedged btwn the guide and the granny.

    This is odd as the chainguide has a guard ridge to prevent this.




    Looking at the crankset I noticed a spacer on the spindle near the spider. It turns out it's 2.5mm as well.







    At first I removed it and it looked like it would leave the NDS crank arm too far out but it turns out I was able to push it on the spindle further.





    The crank arms are both ~15mmm from the rocker bolts on each side. Nice and even.






    And the chainguide is close enough to the rings to prevent wedging and the chainline is 2.5mm inboard which should help.


    Too bad I discovered I bent a tooth on the middle ring before I figured this out.

    A kind soul pm'd me(I'll let him speak up if he wishes) and he and confirmed what I found with a email form FSA and that the spindle spacer is for single row bearings and should be removed when using the dual bearing (quad) cups on a 83mm bb shell.

    If you're using this setup and haven't already done so, you might want to double check this as it was pre-installed on my cranks and I somehow missed it in the instructions. Remember to put the o-ring back on.

    FWIW I'm running one 2.5 spacer on the NDS and a E-13 2mm-thick chainguide on the DS. I have a 0.5mm spacer I can add but I don't need to move the the rings outboard.
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  2. #2
    Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
    Reputation: cactuscorn's Avatar
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    i knew ya would get it figured out.
    No, I'm NOT back!

  3. #3
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    I have had some issues with the chainline on my Highline when running the dual ring set-up.
    It seems that when spacing the cranks out far enough to have the granny ring bolts clear the chainguide pushes the chainline out further than optimum.
    I am running ISIS Holzfeller cranks, I had a MRP LRP guide for a while but have now switched to a E13 DRS.
    With the LRP I was dropping the chain constantly in the rough chatter, the E13 seems a bit better but I have limited ride time on it.
    I have not experimented with other cranksets, but with the Holzfellers the chainline is not ideal.
    Anyone else have anything to say about this?
    It almost seems like the ISCG tabs should be a few mms further inboard to make for a better chainline.

  4. #4
    No, that's not phonetic
    Reputation: tscheezy's Avatar
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    Did you read the directions that came with the crank?
    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by tscheezy
    Did you read the directions that came with the crank?
    Yes, I read the fork directions, does that make a difference?
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  6. #6
    No, that's not phonetic
    Reputation: tscheezy's Avatar
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    If you set the PAR pressure to preload the bearings, you could run into issues later.
    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

  7. #7
    Amphibious Technologies
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    Thanks 'zilla. I run just a DRS on driveside with a 2.5mm spacer on the non-drive side.
    "The best you've ridden is the best you know" - Paul Thede, Race Tech

  8. #8
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    Scuba, I'm running the same.

    TS, the online instructions and diagrams at FSA's website do not show or mention the spacer.
    I somehow misplaced the printed instruction booklet that came with them. Anyone know where the rebound knob is on these cranks?
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  9. #9
    JMH
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    The bearing cups you have installed are indeed single-row (are they FSA? I have only seen the brown ano cups with that crankset) so you SHOULD need the spacer. But in the real world things aren't that straightforward. And if those cups happen to be wider than stock FSA, that would explain a lot also. It looks like your setup is much better without it.

    Please continue to Gnar.

    JMH

  10. #10
    Amphibious Technologies
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikezilla
    I somehow misplaced the printed instruction booklet that came with them. Anyone know where the rebound knob is on these cranks?
    The RS manual for my Lyrik says its the red knob at the bottom
    "The best you've ridden is the best you know" - Paul Thede, Race Tech

  11. #11
    It's carbon dontcha know.
    Reputation: 6thElement's Avatar
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    I'll check mine out on Friday, but I didn't spend too much time pedalling big/big when I rode at the weekend.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMH
    The bearing cups you have installed are indeed single-row (are they FSA? I have only seen the brown ano cups with that crankset) so you SHOULD need the spacer. But in the real world things aren't that straightforward. And if those cups happen to be wider than stock FSA, that would explain a lot also. It looks like your setup is much better without it.

    Please continue to Gnar.

    JMH

    The cup color is misleading...I painted them gold.
    They were actually black anno to begin with. The web picture shows the brown ones but the black ones in my kit have quad written on them.

    And before TS asks, yes I masked off the threads and labling area so I can tell L from R.

    Now, how much air goes into the Non-drive side?
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by SCUBAPRO
    The RS manual for my Lyrik says its the red knob at the bottom

    You're both wrong.. you're supposed to use the U-turn adjust to rid your cranks of the 2.5mm offset..

    ..FWIW I'm also running the 2.5mm spacer on the non drive side.

    As far as dropping the chain I had to take it to the pros (local bike shop) to get the FD properly adjusted.. From what I saw they moved the low stop almost all the way in (which pushes the cage out) and did a bit of rotational alignment tweakage (about the seatpost.) $5 and 30mins later and it been working like a champ

  14. #14
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    Definately adjust the Fder cage as close as possible to the inside face of the chain when on the middle ring. Makes a huge difference.
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  15. #15
    Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikezilla
    Now, how much air goes into the Non-drive side?
    morons! the lot of ya! just tilt the nose of yer seat up. why do ya need to make it so difficult all the time with a zillion fancy settings that cost so much to add onto yer already overpriced grips?
    No, I'm NOT back!

  16. #16
    JMH
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikezilla
    the black ones in my kit have quad written on them.
    Heh. The MegaExo Quad cups are HUGE... yours are definitely single-row as are all GL cranksets. I am sure that since it's an 83mm spindle the factory mistakenly thought the cups were supposed to say Quad (like the Gravity crankset uses), so they etched it on there.
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  17. #17
    Yay! Bikes !
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikezilla
    The cup color is misleading...I painted them gold.







    Nick.

  18. #18
    JMH
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick.
    I'll see your Vogue and raise you a Xerxes...
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMH
    Heh. The MegaExo Quad cups are HUGE... yours are definitely single-row as are all GL cranksets. I am sure that since it's an 83mm spindle the factory mistakenly thought the cups were supposed to say Quad (like the Gravity crankset uses), so they etched it on there.
    Aaaah. I wondered how they stuffed a second line of bearings in there. Oh BTW the sleeve is alloy on mine, not plastic.
    I'm still confused about the color and config. So the GL are supposed to have brown single cups even on the mega exo? And I'm supposed to use the spindle spacer? Seems better w/o it so I'll give that a go and see where it takes me.

    Thanks for the info!
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1soulrider
    I have had some issues with the chainline on my Highline when running the dual ring set-up.
    It seems that when spacing the cranks out far enough to have the granny ring bolts clear the chainguide pushes the chainline out further than optimum.
    Anyone else have anything to say about this?
    It almost seems like the ISCG tabs should be a few mms further inboard to make for a better chainline.
    I've read similar comments on the pre-07 RFX as well. Seems the ISCG bolts always need grinding as they just don't fit deeply enough into the countersink.

    I read several posts about ppl grinding this and that, so I eventually decided to go with the BB mounted chainguides.

    Quote Originally Posted by cactuscorn
    just tilt the nose of yer seat up. why do ya need to make it so difficult all the time with a zillion fancy settings that cost so much to add onto yer already overpriced grips?
    Dude, you're nuts. There's no practical way to route the gravity dropper cable through the crank spindle if you tilt your seat up.
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  21. #21
    Anytime. Anywhere.
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    BZ, thanks for figuring this out before my GL cranks arrive. You saved me a lot of head scratching.
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  22. #22
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    NP Brah. I figured they're getting popular so I can't be the only one.

    You're gonna like em. Top quality.
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  23. #23
    mr. wonderful
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    Good call big fella. I've had to double clutch my shifts from little to middle since I got the thing. I dropped the chain in the beginning, but not lately. I've never be stoked with the chainline and will take a look at mine tonight. And I think this will take me under 40lbs to boot

    and TS. . . directions?! read?!! are you kidding me?!!!

  24. #24
    It's carbon dontcha know.
    Reputation: 6thElement's Avatar
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    That spacer isn't even mentioned in the instructions IIRC.

  25. #25
    Huh?
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    Never mind your crank troubles how come you weren't at Diablo? I saw only 1 other Highline there.

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