Results 1 to 18 of 18
  1. #1
    BBW
    BBW is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BBW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,179

    New question here. Help! link screw is broken and question about anodizing finish care

    What up guys; Just bought a new frame and came with a broken screw inside the link. What would be the best way to take it out? drill it?





    Also, this is my first anodized frame and was wondering what is the best way to protect the finish from cable rub? I have no idea what would stay put due to the porous surface?
    Cheers
    BBW. MS, RD

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    469
    I've experienced the same issue. You need to get in touch with Turner to get a new clevis bolt. I know they went through some different alloy or steel versions due to this happening occasionally.

    The best way to get the remaining bolt out of the link is to drill it out. You need to pick just the right diameter of drill bit, such that it is slightly smaller than the bolt shaft diameter. When the drill bit reaches the head/flange of the bolt on the opposite side, the remaining metal on the bolt will be thin enough to snap off. Of course, the entire time you are doing this, you need to press the drill on one side while simultaneously holding the flange/head on the other with a hex wrench. And the hex wrench needs to be shorter in length than the space in the link (a classic, small, individual L-shape 4mm works well).
    Its tedious, but actually not too bad. I did a "pilot hole" first with a small bit, then used the larger bit.

    In my opinion, the obvious alternative -- using a spiral fluted screw extractor -- isn't as practical in this situation.

  3. #3
    nocturnal oblivion
    Reputation: stumblemumble's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    2,309
    ^^^I'd try an extractor first.
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  4. #4
    Never enough time to ride
    Reputation: squish's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,529
    That looks like the bolt for the seat stay pivot, if it is, its a nut/bolt arrangement. Just push the nut with the remaining bolt in it out the back of the pivot and get a whole new unit from Turner.

    Happy trails...

    squish
    Get out and ride!

  5. #5
    beer is good
    Reputation: Nels's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    438
    Quote Originally Posted by squish View Post
    That looks like the bolt for the seat stay pivot, if it is its a nut/bolt arrangement. Just push the nut with then remaining bolt in it out the back of the pivot and get awhile new unit from Turner.

    Happy trails...

    squish
    Yeah that bolt is just screwed into the other half of the bolt assy...it's not threaded into the frame bits at all, just push it out like squish said, might take a little force.
    Steve
    "looking California, feeling Minnesota"

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    469
    Quote Originally Posted by Nels View Post
    Yeah that bolt is just screwed into the other half of the bolt assy...it's not threaded into the frame bits at all, just push it out like squish said, might take a little force.
    I could be wrong, but I *think* that you guys are wrong. The outer portion of the clevis assembly is a torx head female threaded sleeve, and the inner portion is an allen head bolt.

    So the second/lower photo of the OP shows the broken female sleeve portion, NOT the bolt portion.

    Hence the inner bolt can't just be pushed out because a portion of the threaded sleeve is still on the bolt inside the rocker. The sleeve is larger in diameter than the seat stay hole the bolt passed through, preventing the bolt from being pushed out.

    You also cannot get a grip on the sleeve with anything, so even if you used an easy out, and got a good fix on the bolt, it wouldn't back out of the sleeve, they just rotate together.

    The only way forward is to hold the bolt fixed in place, and drill (through the rocker and stay holes) into the tip of the bolt.
    Last edited by InertiaMan; 04-27-2013 at 07:12 PM.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    469
    Quote Originally Posted by stumblemumble View Post
    ^^^I'd try an extractor first.
    Per my description above, the extractor isn't going to be of much utility. You've already got a good fix on the bolt via the hex tool head. The real problem that needs to be addressed is the threaded sleeve that remains on the bolt. If there was a tool to grasp the fractured edge of the sleeve, you might be able to just unthread the nut. I actually tried wedging some tiny eyeglass screwdrivers around the sleeve inside the stay/rocker hole, but I couldn't prevent the sleeve from spinning with the bolt.

  8. #8
    BBW
    BBW is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BBW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,179
    InertiaMan is right on; I tried EVERYTHING for 2 days: drilling, screwdrivers, pliers, tapping, punching, more drilling, dremel
    I got enough and the thing was too close to the seat tube to do anything through the other side
    this is what I did LOL



    I had another link and bushing from Turner because I had some issues in the past and even though I didn't like to do it, enough is enough
    Cheers

    PS: that sucker is still attaches to the link
    BBW. MS, RD

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    163
    That is a pretty ugly way to start building up a new bike. Hopefully it is all worth it once you get it fixed up and out on the dirt.

  10. #10
    BBW
    BBW is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BBW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,179
    Worth it 100%
    BBW. MS, RD

  11. #11
    Yay! Bikes !
    Reputation: Nick.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    1,631
    Shoot.
    I have the EXACT same bolt failure to deal with right now. The outer female part is broken off, but part is still threaded onto the bolt. I cannot push it out, I cannot get a bite on the remaining female part to allow me to unscrew the bolt and I'm not excited about trying to drill the whole thing out.

    Arrrggghh.....
    Nick.

  12. #12
    BBW
    BBW is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BBW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,179
    Sucks brother.... Patience
    BBW. MS, RD

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    469
    Nick,
    Get out the drill. Its really not that bad. I did it alone with a borrowed drill, after hours in a friendly bike shop in AZ while travelling. Using a fresh, sharp bit helps. Using a small bit first, to get a well centered pilot hole, is also helpful.
    You just hold the bolt head with an allen tool on one side, and drill in from the other side.
    There is a reasonable amount of margin for error because your bit only needs to be the diameter of the low point of the bolt threads, but the seat stay hole is a tad larger than the high point of the threads.
    It took me 5 minutes and it didn't leave so much as a scratch on the rocker or seat stay clevis.

  14. #14
    Yay! Bikes !
    Reputation: Nick.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    1,631
    I'll be drilling. I've tried every way to try and get a bite on the sleeve and it's just not happening.

    Hopefully I hear back from Turner tonight or tomorrow if I have any hope of getting parts in time to ride this weekend.
    Nick.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Buzz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    769
    Good to find this thread. I have the same thing having just happened on my '12 5-Spot. Drilling it out seems to be the solution. Did Turner send you guts a new bolt or two? I dont really want to have to buy the rebuild kit from the store just for a set of bolts. Having a rebuild kit wouldnt be a bad idea, so I will order that I guess if all else fails.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    469
    Turner sent me a new bolt. I'm sure they'll do the same for you.

  17. #17
    BBW
    BBW is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BBW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,179
    Yeah give them a call, they will hook you up
    BBW. MS, RD

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Buzz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    769
    One email to Greg and he sorted me out. Sending me out replacements free of charge. Great CS as usual!

Similar Threads

  1. 2010 Reign X Broken Link Poll
    By BrentD in forum Giant
    Replies: 26
    Last Post: 11-07-2013, 02:57 PM
  2. How do I remove a broken screw?
    By DaveLance in forum Tooltime
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 03-26-2013, 04:32 PM
  3. Santa Cruz TRc broken bolt lower link
    By ban in forum Santa Cruz
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 08-10-2012, 11:07 AM
  4. Broken lower link
    By lpa92651@yahoo.com in forum Ibis
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-22-2011, 08:27 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •