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Thread: Funny sound

  1. #1
    aka Willy Vanilly
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    Funny sound

    2011 5-Spot: Grabbing the rear triangle from the non drive side and pushing away while grabbing the main triangle and pulling towards me results in a (obviously audible) single, metallic "clunk" both while pushing away and pulling back (reverse of the motion above). Sounds like it is coming from the shock mount at the BB area but I'm guessing the frame is carrying the sound.

    Tightened all shock and linkage hardware that I could (I couldn't locate my T30 to tighten the pivot at the upper linkage) and still makes the same sound. Anyone have any ideas?
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius -- and a lot of courage -- to move in the opposite direction.
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  2. #2
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    I think the first thing to do is to check all the bolts are properly torqued, so you should start with finding your T30.

    Once you do that,
    Can you redo the test with one end of the shock disconnected?
    That will help eliminate the eyelet bushings as a cause.
    Although that would likely click at full vertical extension anyway.

    Also try removing the rear wheel and pushing laterally on the rear triangle to see if there is any side-to side play. (with and without the shock) Then try again with it articulated towards deep compression (without the shock)

    If it only clicks when extended and not in compression, it could mean you have a flat spot in one of the pivots, if it clicks at any point in the compression it may be more likely play due to a loose connection or a completely bad pivot point.

    But start with making sure everything is tight.
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  3. #3
    aka Willy Vanilly
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikezilla View Post
    I think the first thing to do is to check all the bolts are properly torqued, so you should start with finding your T30.

    Once you do that,
    Can you redo the test with one end of the shock disconnected?
    That will help eliminate the eyelet bushings as a cause.
    Although that would likely click at full vertical extension anyway.

    Also try removing the rear wheel and pushing laterally on the rear triangle to see if there is any side-to side play. (with and without the shock) Then try again with it articulated towards deep compression (without the shock)

    If it only clicks when extended and not in compression, it could mean you have a flat spot in one of the pivots, if it clicks at any point in the compression it may be more likely play due to a loose connection or a completely bad pivot point.

    But start with making sure everything is tight.
    Awesome troubleshooting tips. Thanks Bikezilla
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius -- and a lot of courage -- to move in the opposite direction.
    E. F. Schumacher

    sXe

  4. #4
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    One more thing about tightening the bolts,

    If they are already tight, don't force them to tighten more. That is to say, if they are already at proper torque, don't break the threadlock trying to make them tighter.

    If you do, they may end up loosening over time because the threadlock was broken.
    *I think this depends on the type of threadlock though, some "dry" types of threadlock will still resist backing out even when retightened.
    I defer to folks who know what is on the bolts you have.

    ** BUT it's better to err on tightening a potentially loose bolt than riding on one that is actually loose... provided you don't go gorilla and break it off!

    In other words use a torque wrench if you have one, or a reasonable amount of good judgement if you dont!
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  5. #5
    aka Willy Vanilly
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikezilla View Post
    One more thing about tightening the bolts,

    If they are already tight, don't force them to tighten more. That is to say, if they are already at proper torque, don't break the threadlock trying to make them tighter.

    If you do, they may end up loosening over time because the threadlock was broken.
    *I think this depends on the type of threadlock though, some "dry" types of threadlock will still resist backing out even when retightened.
    I defer to folks who know what is on the bolts you have.

    ** BUT it's better to err on tightening a potentially loose bolt than riding on one that is actually loose... provided you don't go gorilla and break it off!

    In other words use a torque wrench if you have one, or a reasonable amount of good judgement if you dont!
    Thanks again. Give it a shot tonight.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius -- and a lot of courage -- to move in the opposite direction.
    E. F. Schumacher

    sXe

  6. #6
    aka Willy Vanilly
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    Tightened everything up.

    Did the same check w/o the shock mounted and noise is still there. Cycled the suspension through its range of motion and checked and it makes the same sound throughout the cycle.

    Shot the pivots up with grease and that seems to "mute" the noise. Guessing one of the bushings (or whatever fancier term that I'm supposed to use) is shot.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius -- and a lot of courage -- to move in the opposite direction.
    E. F. Schumacher

    sXe

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    Funny sound

    Try putting your fingers on each pivot point to check for any play or looseness while you move the suspension. This may help you isolate the problem pivot.

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    A possible way to chase down the bad pivot:
    Stop by a medical supply store or well stocked pharmacy and pick up a cheap stethoscope and hold it on each pivot and retest for the noise.

    That way you don't have to pull them all apart.
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  9. #9
    aka Willy Vanilly
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    Good stuff. I'll give it a shot tonight. Thanks
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius -- and a lot of courage -- to move in the opposite direction.
    E. F. Schumacher

    sXe

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    Funny sound

    Check the weld at the BB seat tube area very carefully for cracks. Also disconnect the lower shock mount and repeat your stress test to see if it is any worse. Good luck. When my weld broke the shock held everything together and made the break hard to see but it clicked while riding. When I removed my shock the break was all the way through and you could easily pull it apart.

  11. #11
    aka Willy Vanilly
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    Quote Originally Posted by WV_XCE View Post
    Check the weld at the BB seat tube area very carefully for cracks. Also disconnect the lower shock mount and repeat your stress test to see if it is any worse. Good luck. When my weld broke the shock held everything together and made the break hard to see but it clicked while riding. When I removed my shock the break was all the way through and you could easily pull it apart.
    Eek. I sure hope that isn't the case. But thanks for the heads up. That area is currently covered in caked on dirt so I'll take a look.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius -- and a lot of courage -- to move in the opposite direction.
    E. F. Schumacher

    sXe

  12. #12
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    @ will8250, I also have a 2011 Spot. Does exactly what you described. On mine I've isolated it to the front DW-Link pivot. Charging with slick honey does help (as you found out), but it's a temporary fix. I called Turner and spoke with Greg, who indicated the issue was a batch of slightly out of tolerance DW pivot shafts. Basically, when the shafts are slightly longer than spec, they don't properly seat into the outside hex links. Greg said I could disassemble the DW, and sand down one end of the shaft (maybe a few thousandths of mm) and re-install. Personally, I haven't done it since I can't hear the pop while riding and the link moves freely, so it works fine. Also, I've read of other 2011 owners just asking for warranty pivot shafts and getting them. So maybe I'll do that. I guess that's a long way to say you're not alone brotha and call Turner.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by trojan08 View Post
    @ will8250, I also have a 2011 Spot. Does exactly what you described. On mine I've isolated it to the front DW-Link pivot. Charging with slick honey does help (as you found out), but it's a temporary fix. I called Turner and spoke with Greg, who indicated the issue was a batch of slightly out of tolerance DW pivot shafts. Basically, when the shafts are slightly longer than spec, they don't properly seat into the outside hex links. Greg said I could disassemble the DW, and sand down one end of the shaft (maybe a few thousandths of mm) and re-install. Personally, I haven't done it since I can't hear the pop while riding and the link moves freely, so it works fine. Also, I've read of other 2011 owners just asking for warranty pivot shafts and getting them. So maybe I'll do that. I guess that's a long way to say you're not alone brotha and call Turner.
    Thanks for the upbeat news. Love the Turner and would really hate for it to be a cracked frame (although I'll check anyway). I'll get in touch w/ Turner and see what they've got to say.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius -- and a lot of courage -- to move in the opposite direction.
    E. F. Schumacher

    sXe

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