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  1. #1
    Surfin' da mountain
    Reputation: Cucucachu's Avatar
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    Fox 36 Talas initial setup advice

    Installing a new Fox 36 Talas on my SPOT. When I initially installed the Marzocchi I fiddled with air pressure and tuning for a few days before checking the fluid level and found it low. So, based on experience I know I can't just install it an go...

    The Fox manual recommends air pressure, sag & adjustment settings. I'll take those suggestions with a grain of salt. Anyone receive new Fox Forx low on fluid? Can you recommend inital air pressure, compression and rebound settings after the fluids are right?

  2. #2
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cucucachu
    Installing a new Fox 36 Talas on my SPOT. When I initially installed the Marzocchi I fiddled with air pressure and tuning for a few days before checking the fluid level and found it low. So, based on experience I know I can't just install it an go...

    The Fox manual recommends air pressure, sag & adjustment settings. I'll take those suggestions with a grain of salt. Anyone receive new Fox Forx low on fluid? Can you recommend inital air pressure, compression and rebound settings after the fluids are right?
    Multiple people across MTBR have noted receiving their 36 TALAS low on fluid straight from the factory. After mine more or less ran dry I've made it a habit of periodically checking the fluid level in the fork. Your results may vary, but can't hurt to check IMO.

    You won't have to fiddle with oil levels to get the 36 tuned; it's a semi-bath fork that only uses the fluid to keep the seals, bushings, and stantions happy. To the best of my understanding fluid level stays the same and will have no effect on performance of the fork.

    I've found that the Fox recommended pressures based on weight were a bit high for my liking so I've gone down about 8-10psi to get the sag and plushness I want. I started with rebound damping deadcenter and I think I've settled on 2 clicks slower than center. The HSC and LSC I intially started with both deadcenter and have moved to HSC I think 2 clicks from full open and LSC 5 or 6 clicks in from full open to combat brake dive. If I had to start all over I think I'd start with HSC and LSC full open and dial in till happy, rebound I'd start in the middle and move from there.

    **edit** OP didn't note whether you had the R or the RC2; obviously my impressions are from the RC2.
    Quote Originally Posted by turnerbikes
    in fact for trail type bikes I am tired of QR roady shite in general. Lets move on.

  3. #3
    Surfin' da mountain
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    OOPS - yep, its an RC2 - I'll post pics when finished installing

  4. #4
    Baked Alaskan
    Reputation: AK Chris's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tip

    Good info to know since I just ordered a 09 36 Talas. New forks cause some major anxiety for me, I usually buy last years model on closeout, but last year I went new and got burned by the 66 SL. I hope the results are better with the 36.

    On a side note, what tools are needed to take the 36 apart?
    The red couch has moved from Alaska to Florida...

  5. #5
    the refurbished one
    Reputation: hball's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK Chris
    On a side note, what tools are needed to take the 36 apart?
    da chicken man posted some good info a while ago.
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?...9&postcount=62
    http://reviews.mtbr.com/blog/2008-fo...th-oil-change/

    cheers
    Sokrates is dead, Galilei is dead, Newton is dead, Einstein is dead, Pantani is dead and i am feeling sick too.

  6. #6
    TLL
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    Quote Originally Posted by hball
    Thanks for posting that up, I'll be changing my oil as soon as I can . . .
    Hadley rear hub service here and here.

  7. #7
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    i posted in the suspension forum. i also have a new fox talas rc2. i also thought it was possible that my oil levels were low. even with the low and high speed compression knobs, along with the rebound are turn full in, i can hardly notice a difference in compression and rebound. i can understand how the oil bath is just for lubrication, but what about the damper in the right leg. could that be low on oil, or is there something else that could be the problem. i've tried a few things but as i said, even with everything maxed out, i get basically the same thing. thanks for the help.

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