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  1. #1
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    Good job! DW 5spot, total transformation!

    Just back from a week of riding my DW spot with some recent mods.

    I was not totally happy with the less plush feel of the DW design coming off my old HL spot. I noticed I had some serious stiction on some shaft/ bushing interfaces of the DW bike. I honed out the guilty bushings, added a set of RWC bearings for the top shock mount, and added a Pushed Monarch Plus.

    I can't say which mod offered the greatest improvement, but the bike has been transformed. The HL plushness is back, and the bike climbs as efficiently as ever. Stoked on my Turner once again and highly recommend any/all of these mods if you're not happy with the small bump compliance of your spot.

  2. #2
    nocturnal oblivion
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    Same experience here. There was one pivot shaft that was tight. Also the grease does make a difference. Slick Honey works great.
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  3. #3
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    Any chance of some pictures?

  4. #4
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    Sure Dump, anything in particular you're looking for? Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures of the honing or install if that's what you mean. (?)

  5. #5
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    Can you descibe the technique used to hone the bushings as i feel i have too much stiction in some of the pivots of my new burner.

  6. #6
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    BritPop, I basically disassembled the whole rear end. once all the bolts were out, I checked each shaft for signs of "mushrooming". These were shafts that had initial resistance while pushing them out, followed by easier sliding as the shaft came further out. i took some emory cloth to the lower rear triangle shaft since this one had a decent amount of mushrooming. This can be caused by over tightening of your pivot bolts, or shafts that are a hair too long.

    Before hacking away at the bushings you should determine if there is any stiction in your pivots. Remove the shock and work the suspension through all its travel. If it moves smoothly without any hanging up, you shouldn't have to do any of the steps below.

    Most of the journal bearing/bushing interfaces were really tight on my frame. I wrapped a nut driver shaft with a piece of 600 grit sandpaper and slowly honed out the tight bushings. You have to be careful not to over do it. I should mention that I have a spare set of Push bushings in the event I screwed this step up. Do a little at a time and keep testing the fit with the appropriate journal bearing. once you're happy with the fit, lube the journal bearings with a healthy amount of slick honey and put it all back together.

    Best of luck!

  7. #7
    It's carbon dontcha know.
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    If it's a brand new bike you need to give it a while to wear in.
    Rolling on 29", 650b, 8.3" and 23mm

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6thElement View Post
    If it's a brand new bike you need to give it a while to wear in.
    6thelement makes a good point. Mine had a little over a year of use before I got around to doing this. This was my last ditch attempt before switching the frame out for something else.

    I got desperate and even considered an "E" frame since it's the closest to the old HL design.

  9. #9
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    Did the same thing to mine. I used that thin foam backed sanding pad material for drywall to hone the Igus bushings. Cut it to size and wraped around an appropriatly sized allen key and it took next to no time to get all sized up to where the shafts needed much less force to rotate. After some rides the rear suspension is much smoother than it was out of the box.

  10. #10
    Bicyclochondriac.
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    I did the bushing tuning after a few months of riding and not being to happy with the smoothness. Made a huge difference.

    The RWC needle bushing kit made a big difference as well.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  11. #11
    GAME ON!
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    are you guys sanding the inside of the bushings where the bolts go, or the outside that goes into the frame? i'm not entirely sure what is actually rotating. whether it's the bushing within the frame or the bolt within the bushing.
    RIP Adam Yauch

    "M.C. for what I AM and do, the A is for Adam and the lyrics; true"

  12. #12
    nocturnal oblivion
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    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine View Post
    are you guys sanding the inside of the bushings where the bolts go, or the outside that goes into the frame? i'm not entirely sure what is actually rotating. whether it's the bushing within the frame or the bolt within the bushing.
    If you have a tight pivot it can be two things. If the metal shaft is really tough to rotate and remove then use a fine 1500 grit paper on the shaft OD, sounds like some do the plastic bushing ID but I don't know how.
    It could be that the plastic flanges are being pinched by the frame instead of the shaft rotating, in which case you'd need to sand the flanges so the shaft is a hair wider.

    The other problem, not stiction related, is side-to-side play in a pivot. That case the shaft is a hair too long.
    It's all self explanatory if you dissasble the pivot in question, the frame should clamp the shaft without clamping the plastic flanges.
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  13. #13
    Bicyclochondriac.
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    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine View Post
    are you guys sanding the inside of the bushings where the bolts go, or the outside that goes into the frame? i'm not entirely sure what is actually rotating. whether it's the bushing within the frame or the bolt within the bushing.
    Inside of the bushing. This was Dave Turner's recommendation to me.

    I describe the whole thing here:
    Tuning the Pivot Bushings

    The pivot tuning, the RWC needle bearing kit for the top shock mount, and swapping the RP2 for an old PUSH'ed AVA each made a difference. It's a little more modification and dickering around than I would have thought a top dollar frame should need, but it feels wonderful now.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  14. #14
    GAME ON!
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    that AVA just keeps on chugging.
    RIP Adam Yauch

    "M.C. for what I AM and do, the A is for Adam and the lyrics; true"

  15. #15
    Bicyclochondriac.
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    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine View Post
    that AVA just keeps on chugging.
    Yep. It came PUSHed on the MKIII I bought a few years back (may it RIP), spent time on the Mt Vision (good riddance), and I got it re-built and re-tuned for the Spot. PUSH told be it would have the same performance as if they tuned a new Float RP, so I figured why not? I really like the easy volume adjust.

    Interesting, the fork and shock on this bike are both from 2004, albeit both PUSHed and with multiple rebuilds. This is the 5th frame for the Pike, and at least 4 for the AVA.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by k1creeker View Post
    Sure Dump, anything in particular you're looking for? Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures of the honing or install if that's what you mean. (?)
    Was just curious to see some general pics, perhaps with detail pics of the bushings/bearings.

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