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  1. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwirider View Post
    x 2. I'm 150lbs after breakfast and after trialing different shims ended up with the full size DCG shim.
    You were just using it wrong. Dave Weasel designed it to be perfect in every way. Quit being a bad customer and ride it properly.

  2. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by taletotell View Post
    I've got the 2010 rp23 w/ boost valve and an xv air chamber on my 2010 Diamond Back Mission 2. At recommended sag I can bottom out by rolling fast up a curb without hopping. Boost valve does nothing. Less than recommended sag equals crappy ride. I'm going to try the shim, but I won't mention it to fox if I need to take advantage of the warranty at any point.
    i also got a 2010 mission with RP23 BV XV, did already made the shim mod? what size of plastic did you use?

  3. #153
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    Finally got around to this, I wanted to get plenty of time on the stock setup to feel the bike out. I'm 145lbs and usually run 17mm sag on my 2010 5 Spot w/ XV can RP23, and I very regularly bottom out but want to keep that 17mm sag.
    I used the caps from Edge shaving gel cans, they're 1mm thick and have a curve so you don't have to be exact in the length, they fit snug.
    One thing I noted, especially if you have rear end stiction. The sag must be a control factor that should remain at say 17mm between the trials. To better get accurate sag readings I had to loosen the two pivots that cause the stiction on my 5 Spot, then torque them up again to ride.
    The mod works like a charm, at 26mm there was noticeably more ramp up throughout the curve, not enough compliance for me. Still experimenting but have narrowed it to around a 138mm x 24mm x 1.0mm.
    Great mod. I'm interested in the electrical tape/can recess thing you were doing DGC, if anything came of that.
    Next up is Saar's headset.
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  4. #154
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    I am going to try this mod as I have been experiencing the same issue with my 2011 5 Spot

  5. #155
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    FYI for those experimenting:
    138mm x 26mm x 1.0mm (3588 mm^3 volume reduction) for 17mm sag.
    138mm x 24.6mm x 1.0mm (3394.8 mm^3 volume reduction) for 15mm sag.
    (PSI was 102 and 110 respectively for my weight)

    Both gave the exact same bounce test measurements: 93% of travel
    This 93% of travel on the bounce tests seems to be a good amount of resistance for me, your aims may vary.

    *Bounce test: repeated bouncing using body weight.

    There were many more trials (5 shims total) using 15mm and 17mm sag settings. These two volumes worked well. DGC's preference was a volume reduction of 3240 mm^3, a bit less than these.
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  6. #156
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    Influence of the shock factory tune over DGC modification

    Is somebody considering the factory's tune of the shock as a factor in the equation?
    Every Fox RP23 has it's own tune setting, my 09 Sultan came with a low compression/low rebound tune and I was wondering if I can get the same benefits of the shim using a high compression factory tune shock ??
    I know the shim is a little bit more cheaper than a new shock but ....I am just wondering
    In my workshop, dirty hands is a state of mind

  7. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by Midle Age Warrior View Post
    Is somebody considering the factory's tune of the shock as a factor in the equation?
    Every Fox RP23 has it's own tune setting, my 09 Sultan came with a low compression/low rebound tune and I was wondering if I can get the same benefits of the shim using a high compression factory tune shock ??
    I know the shim is a little bit more cheaper than a new shock but ....I am just wondering
    The DGC mod primarily has an effect on spring rate (bottom out resistance) and little effect on compression.
    So if you're looking to switch to a high compression tune on the Sultan this will not do it.
    Or do you want to do the DGC mod to a high compression shock? If it has a large air can you could.
    Last edited by stumblemumble; 07-14-2011 at 12:16 PM.
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  8. #158
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    One option is, check out Kidwoo's mods to the rp23 in post #40 here: Getting an RP23 more progressive
    Apparently Fox makes shims for the main air chamber on low volume shocks.
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  9. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by stumblemumble View Post
    The DGC mod primarily has an effect on spring rate (bottom out resistance) and little effect on compression.
    So if you're looking to switch to a high compression tune on the Sultan this will not do it.
    Or do you want to do the DGC mod to a high compression shock? If it has a large air can you could.
    Please help me here, is not the compression the responsable to increase the resistance at the end of the shock travel, making it not to linear ?? so a higher compression rate means more ramp up, or is the compression affecting the whole travel??
    In my workshop, dirty hands is a state of mind

  10. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by Midle Age Warrior View Post
    Please help me here, is not the compression the responsable to increase the resistance at the end of the shock travel, making it not to linear ?? so a higher compression rate means more ramp up, or is the compression affecting the whole travel??
    I'm no guru so apologies if I get corrected, but the compression damping affects the whole range of travel, so upping compression will increase resistance at the end of the travel but also everywhere else even if preload (sag) were to remain the same.
    Frame suspension design plays a large role in how progressive a suspension is. DW Turners have a frame suspension design which give a mildly progressive rate, more so than a DW Mojo which has a more linear rate.
    As evident by the graphs in this thread the DGC mod does mildly affect compression damping (the whole curve is shifted) but gives more compression damping at the end (bottom out resistance)
    I tried a handful of shims and the affect on the end travel is much greater than the affect on the rest of the travel, so you retain most all small/mid bump compliance while gaining bottom out resistance.
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  11. #161
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    You're mixing compression damping and spring rate in the last bit. Fixed:
    Quote Originally Posted by stumblemumble View Post
    As evident by the graphs in this thread the DGC mod does mildly affect the whole spring rate curve but gives more spring rate ramp up at the end (bottom out resistance)
    Comment: spring rate is a position sensitive force, while compression (and rebound) damping is a speed sensitive force.

  12. #162
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    Float R mods

    Hi, firstly, would like to introduce myself as a troubled cyclist with a dysfunctional air can

    I bought a Haro Porter Expert after becoming a little old to ride DH on my Bullit, can't be taking so much injury time from work anymore!

    The Porter comes with a Float R shock, my first ever air shock. Since it is a slopestlye bike, I figured it would be able to take some hits, but I have the chamber pumped up to 250psi and it is jarring on small bumps and trail, then blows through travel on the big hits.

    I was about to buy a coil shock, with which I have many years of experience and love the feel, then I saw this thread.

    Has anyone tried this with a Float R yet?

    Would be very grateful for any tips on thickness and length or strip....Im a heavy guy at 13.5 stone/ 87ish kg and ride aggressively (as used to riding DH).

    Cheers!

  13. #163
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    Tested this mod the other day. Unfortunately the strip of plastic I had was a bit thin, therefor the volume reduction got a bit to small. But despite a to small volume reduction I definitely got a better bottom out resistance. I was amazed how simple the mod was though, I have newer pulled my shock apart before, so I was a bit hesitate, but it was dead simple! Thanks a lot DGC!

  14. #164
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    nothing much

    Quote Originally Posted by stumblemumble View Post
    Finally got around to this, I wanted to get plenty of time on the stock setup to feel the bike out. I'm 145lbs and usually run 17mm sag on my 2010 5 Spot w/ XV can RP23, and I very regularly bottom out but want to keep that 17mm sag.
    I used the caps from Edge shaving gel cans, they're 1mm thick and have a curve so you don't have to be exact in the length, they fit snug.
    One thing I noted, especially if you have rear end stiction. The sag must be a control factor that should remain at say 17mm between the trials. To better get accurate sag readings I had to loosen the two pivots that cause the stiction on my 5 Spot, then torque them up again to ride.
    The mod works like a charm, at 26mm there was noticeably more ramp up throughout the curve, not enough compliance for me. Still experimenting but have narrowed it to around a 138mm x 24mm x 1.0mm.
    Great mod. I'm interested in the electrical tape/can recess thing you were doing DGC, if anything came of that.
    Next up is Saar's headset.
    The electrical tape thing was to take up a bit more space at the end of the air can where that 1/4 inch area had a little more space. Thing is, I have seen some Fox air cans without that recess space. I thought it might just add a little more late stroke ramp on the ones having the recess space.....not really.
    I will say this about the mod I started in the garage way back in or around 2004/2005.......Fox took forever to make their shims you can buy as a kit of like 3 sizes, killer price.....only 24 bux. Hell, mine has cost the exact same in 8 years messing with it..........ZERO....!!!!!!
    OUCH...!!!!!!

  15. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by DGC View Post
    T....Fox took forever to make their shims you can buy as a kit of like 3 sizes, killer price.....only 24 bux.
    Where can I buy this kit? I don't see it on the Fox site.

    I've made a couple of these shims myself but they're not elegant and don't seem to be doing the trick for me. Still bottoming pretty easily though it has helped some.

    Currently running a .9 thick 30mm wide, 137mm long shim which seems only a tiny bit better than the 1mm x 24mm x 137 that I tried first.
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
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  16. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by KRob View Post
    Where can I buy this kit? I don't see it on the Fox site.

    I've made a couple of these shims myself but they're not elegant and don't seem to be doing the trick for me. Still bottoming pretty easily though it has helped some.

    Currently running a .9 thick 30mm wide, 137mm long shim which seems only a tiny bit better than the 1mm x 24mm x 137 that I tried first.
    Do the math, their only a tiny bit different because they're almost identical in volume. Try a 1mm x 30 x137.
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  17. #167
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    from me

    Quote Originally Posted by KRob View Post
    Where can I buy this kit? I don't see it on the Fox site.

    I've made a couple of these shims myself but they're not elegant and don't seem to be doing the trick for me. Still bottoming pretty easily though it has helped some.

    Currently running a .9 thick 30mm wide, 137mm long shim which seems only a tiny bit better than the 1mm x 24mm x 137 that I tried first.
    Just send me your mailing addy and I will make and send you a shim to try. Send me a PM and give me an address I can mail a small envelope to via USPS.
    OUCH...!!!!!!

  18. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by stumblemumble View Post
    Do the math, their only a tiny bit different because they're almost identical in volume. Try a 1mm x 30 x137.
    Edit: If I'm doing the math right....(thickness x width x length):
    My first shim should have a volume reduction of 3288 mm3 (1 x 24 x 137)
    Second one should have a volume reduction of 3699 mm3 (.9 x 30 x 137)

    Right?
    Last edited by KRob; 10-09-2011 at 11:14 PM.
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
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  19. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by DGC View Post
    Just send me your mailing addy and I will make and send you a shim to try. Send me a PM and give me an address I can mail a small envelope to via USPS.

    Really? Thanks DGC. I appreciate the offer. PM sent.
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
    Isaiah 58:14

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  20. #170
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    shim sent

    Quote Originally Posted by KRob View Post
    Really? Thanks DGC. I appreciate the offer. PM sent.
    Shim in the mail coming your way, you will be getting a 1.3mm x 31mm x 137mm in a day or so. I think you will find it to help you out more in the bottom out control area a bit better than the one you have in there.
    OUCH...!!!!!!

  21. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by DGC View Post
    Shim in the mail coming your way, you will be getting a 1.3mm x 31mm x 137mm in a day or so. I think you will find it to help you out more in the bottom out control area a bit better than the one you have in there.
    Hey DGC, is there a place online you can recommend for getting the shim material?

  22. #172
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    Ski shops

    Quote Originally Posted by LncNuvue View Post
    Hey DGC, is there a place online you can recommend for getting the shim material?
    Ski shops are your best bet. I get my material from Sun Valley Ski Tool company and Spirakut. Both are ski accessory and tool companies. As far as I know, neither do online retail sales. On SVST's site they do show small sheets of the material. After searching a bit I never found any online ski shop doing the sheets. Only the pre cut pieces which you don't want.Most shops still use the sheets from time to time so just ask them for it. It does come in like 3 different thicknesses, If you find a shop with some, just check out the thickness closely.
    OUCH...!!!!!!

  23. #173
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    Is the lack of progressiveness a design issues or a shock issue?

  24. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaybo View Post
    Is the lack of progressiveness a design issues or a shock issue?
    Depends on which way you want to look at it. Which way do you want to look at it?
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  25. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaybo View Post
    Is the lack of progressiveness a design issues or a shock issue?
    One is blasphemy, the other is not _dw's fault.

  26. #176
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    I know Turner is above reproach but a bike frame that blows through it travel would get killed if it was a Trek. I love my Turner but my RP3 does need some more progressiveness.

  27. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaybo View Post
    I know Turner is above reproach but a bike frame that blows through it travel would get killed if it was a Trek. I love my Turner but my RP3 does need some more progressiveness.
    So...rather than do the free mod you just want to sit and b!tc# about it?

    I agree that it needs more progressiveness, why Turner went with that tune I don't know. If I had to buy a new shock I'd be pissed, but it's a free and easy fix. So why would anyone complain?
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  28. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by stumblemumble View Post
    So...rather than do the free mod you just want to sit and b!tc# about it?

    I agree that it needs more progressiveness, why Turner went with that tune I don't know. If I had to buy a new shock I'd be pissed, but it's a free and easy fix. So why would anyone complain?
    Just to complain?

  29. #179
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    The reason you ask such a question is because it is a natural question--particularly for a mega expensive frame. A shim is pretty mickey mouse...don't you think?

  30. #180
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    It may be Mickey Mouse, but it beats paying $24 for Fox's shim kit. I'm sure Fox didn't made this kit specifically for Turners; there are other bikes/riders out there that can benefit from this kit. Check out some of the other manufacturer forums, Turner's not the only one with this issue.

  31. #181
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    I don't think it's Mickey Mouse. You're tuning the shock, just like changing damper fluid viscosity or altering shims.
    If by MM you mean using household plastic instead of a kit, I'd say it's more Macgyver than Mickey.
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  32. #182
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    What's wrong with Mickey Mouse? Minnie Mouse always has a sparkle in her eye.
    A green bird with a red body. We could look it up in a book. Or we could look up

  33. #183
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    Good answer

    Quote Originally Posted by stumblemumble View Post
    I don't think it's Mickey Mouse. You're tuning the shock, just like changing damper fluid viscosity or altering shims.
    If by MM you mean using household plastic instead of a kit, I'd say it's more Macgyver than Mickey.
    So more of a tuning deal instead of a fix. I like it! My 5 Spot is run stock. Hmm. What am I missing?

  34. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaybo View Post
    So more of a tuning deal instead of a fix. I like it! My 5 Spot is run stock. Hmm. What am I missing?
    Cut yourself a few shims! Tuning is half the fun!

  35. #185
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    Fox Float Spacer Kits - was told by email to either order thru your LBS or call 800-369-7469 x4801.
    I've got a kit on the way.

  36. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaybo View Post
    The reason you ask such a question is because it is a natural question--particularly for a mega expensive frame. A shim is pretty mickey mouse...don't you think?
    I think stuffing it with lint or wood chips would be more mickey mouse. Inserting home made plastic shims is more of a backyard mechanic approach, eventually mimicked by the manufacturer themselves. They just changed where it's placed to not be completely obvious.

    Currently trying the mod on my Mojo HD with Kashima RP23. Rider weight ~160 geared up.

  37. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by DGC View Post
    Shim in the mail coming your way, you will be getting a 1.3mm x 31mm x 137mm in a day or so. I think you will find it to help you out more in the bottom out control area a bit better than the one you have in there.
    Finally got this shim installed. Not sure why I put it off. It only takes a few minutes.

    At the same air pressure I was running with the last shim it's getting a bit less sag (~15mm) but I rode it like that anyway today. Fast trail with rough, semi-rocky surface the rear wheel tracked nicely and hugged the ground not skipping around at all. It literally just disappeared under me. The only downside was that some mid-stroke harshness on my fork was more noticeable now.

    I haven't had the chance to try any drops yet, but some small fast ledges and abrupt g-outs that used to bottom it did not.

    Pleased with it so far. This weekend I'll get up and try the 2-4 foot drops that were giving the rearend trouble before.

    Small bumps and square edges on slow climbing felt a bit more noticeable but I think that will improve as I decrease the air pressure to increase sag to 17mm.

    Thanks again Dave. I'll update after this weekend.
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
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  38. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim-H View Post
    I think stuffing it with lint or wood chips would be more mickey mouse. Inserting home made plastic shims is more of a backyard mechanic approach, eventually mimicked by the manufacturer themselves. They just changed where it's placed to not be completely obvious.

    Currently trying the mod on my Mojo HD with Kashima RP23. Rider weight ~160 geared up.
    Worked perfect for me. ran a 4ft drop today and was left with room to travel ~8mm left from the band to the end of the shaft. Running enough sag to be plush on the trail.

    Running the original 135x20x1.2
    Last edited by Tim-H; 10-19-2011 at 10:08 PM.

  39. #189
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    Thanks for this OP/guys.

    I've been running more air than ideal in my 5spot as I have a offset bushing fitted in the lower shock and pre-fitting the bushing I was regularly blowing the sag ring off the bottom of the shock/using all the travel.

    Thing is I actually liked having just 150psi in the RP23 even though I'm 210lb/97kg in weight.

    Am I 'wrong'? The shock felt 'right' like this. (pro pedal at 1).


    BTW - Im struggling to find the ski plastic material here in the UK - does anyone have some spare or point me to a shop where you got some/can get some from as well?

    Thank you.

  40. #190
    Oh, So Interesting!
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    This should definitely be stickied.

  41. #191
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    Yes I agree... - PAGING MODERATORS... WHY NOT MAKE THIS THREAD A STICKY?! This DGC shim thing works!!!

  42. #192
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    This Fox mod is already in place on the 2011 Spots from Blue Sky. Keep this in mind if you are thinking about DGC's mod.

  43. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by Horacek View Post
    Thanks for this OP/guys.

    I've been running more air than ideal in my 5spot as I have a offset bushing fitted in the lower shock and pre-fitting the bushing I was regularly blowing the sag ring off the bottom of the shock/using all the travel.

    Thing is I actually liked having just 150psi in the RP23 even though I'm 210lb/97kg in weight.

    Am I 'wrong'? The shock felt 'right' like this. (pro pedal at 1).


    BTW - Im struggling to find the ski plastic material here in the UK - does anyone have some spare or point me to a shop where you got some/can get some from as well?

    Thank you.
    It all depends how you ride. I still think that you should use most your travel on most of your rides.

    For shimming, I used plastic from a CD spindle top. I don't know the width but I used something that was 135mm long and 20 mm wide. Your 2011 may already have a shim in it so keep that in mind when doing the DGC mod.

    Also, I am also close to 210 lbs and running 200 psi and get close to 20mm sag. This is with pp off.

  44. #194
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    Ah, my 2011 is a warranty replacement for a 2010. They swapped the 2010 shock over.

  45. #195
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    Do you typically use a lower volume shim if you're lighter and a larger one if you are heavier? I'd like to try this out and want to figure out a good range of shims to cut.

    By the way, I think it's great that the suspension is perhaps a bit on the linear side, it sounds very easy to do the shim mod, seems like it would be expensive to make a suspension more linear, instead more progressive. Perhaps a different shock would be needed, or have Push fiddle with it.

    Viva adjustability!
    Jim
    Last edited by James Lee; 11-28-2011 at 12:31 AM.

  46. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by James Lee View Post
    Do you typically use a lower volume shim if you're lighter and a larger one if you are heavier? I'd like to try this out and want to figure out a good range of shims to cut.

    By the way, I think it's great that the suspension is perhaps a bit on the linear side, it sounds very easy to do the shim mod, seems like it would be expensive to make a suspension more linear, instead more progressive. Perhaps a different shock would be needed, or have Push fiddle with it.

    Viva adjustability!
    Jim
    Kinda. I think DGC is about 190 so I used his basic size as a starting point. I would make a bunch of shims (135 X 1.8 to 135X 2.5) and see how I like each one. Really easy to do so might as well try different sizes.

  47. #197
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    Well, I just tried this mod and it really works so great!

    I am 175lbs geared on, ride an Ibis Mojo SL with a high volume RP23, and do aggressive trail riding, with lots of drops and jumps. I always felt that the suspension was so linear, that I could easily bottom out on the trail, using the correct sag (30%).
    If I tried to increase the pressure, than the sag was reduced and the small bump sensitivity became horrible.

    After read this tread, I got an old water bottle, and cut it down in 4 strips (measures in mm)
    - 135 X 20
    - 135 X 23
    - 135 X 25
    - 135 X 27
    The plastic water bottle that we carry on our bikes, are exactly 1,2mm thick, and it fits just perfect in the shock! So you don't need to go after something else to use as a shim. (Haven't tried the CD plastic lead though).

    I first installed the 135X20 shim, as DGC stated that it's the one who best fit his bike. Set the sag at 30%, using 5psi less than before, and went to the trail.
    The difference was not so perceivable as I was expecting, and I was still bottoming out quite easily. I have the felling that it has to do with differences in suspension design from the Turner to the Mojo; specially because the Mojo uses a longer shock (7,875X2,00) than the Turner (7,5X2,00).

    Came back home and changed for a wider shim. The logical sequence is that I should go with the 23mm wide, but as the result was far from the expected, I decided to go with the 25mm wide instead.
    Sunday morning was rainy, and the trails were very muddy, so I went for a small loop near my house to check the results.
    Although I cannot consider this loop as a proper trail, I already could felt the shock working very different now. I was running 30% sag with 15lbs less, which greatly improved the small bump sensitivity. I was jumping some 3 foot high benches and was not bottoming out so hard; in some cases, I not even got full travel.
    I was so impressive with the improvement on the shock, it is working a lot better now, on a more progressive form.
    I want to test it on a proper trail, with lot of rock gardens and roots, to see how it will work on the mid travel, but so far, so good.
    And I still have the option to reduce it to 23mm if I think it's to much progressive....

    IMO, if you are having problems of bottoming out on a high volume shock, you should definitely give it a try. I am far from being a experienced bike mechanic, and went through it very easily; it really is an easy task!
    The results are quite amazing...

    DGC, thank you for this post!

    Cheers,

  48. #198
    DGC
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    test

    Quote Originally Posted by Edu Guilhon View Post
    Well, I just tried this mod and it really works so great!

    I am 175lbs geared on, ride an Ibis Mojo SL with a high volume RP23, and do aggressive trail riding, with lots of drops and jumps. I always felt that the suspension was so linear, that I could easily bottom out on the trail, using the correct sag (30%).
    If I tried to increase the pressure, than the sag was reduced and the small bump sensitivity became horrible.

    After read this tread, I got an old water bottle, and cut it down in 4 strips (measures in mm)
    - 135 X 20
    - 135 X 23
    - 135 X 25
    - 135 X 27
    The plastic water bottle that we carry on our bikes, are exactly 1,2mm thick, and it fits just perfect in the shock! So you don't need to go after something else to use as a shim. (Haven't tried the CD plastic lead though).

    I first installed the 135X20 shim, as DGC stated that it's the one who best fit his bike. Set the sag at 30%, using 5psi less than before, and went to the trail.
    The difference was not so perceivable as I was expecting, and I was still bottoming out quite easily. I have the felling that it has to do with differences in suspension design from the Turner to the Mojo; specially because the Mojo uses a longer shock (7,875X2,00) than the Turner (7,5X2,00).

    Came back home and changed for a wider shim. The logical sequence is that I should go with the 23mm wide, but as the result was far from the expected, I decided to go with the 25mm wide instead.
    Sunday morning was rainy, and the trails were very muddy, so I went for a small loop near my house to check the results.
    Although I cannot consider this loop as a proper trail, I already could felt the shock working very different now. I was running 30% sag with 15lbs less, which greatly improved the small bump sensitivity. I was jumping some 3 foot high benches and was not bottoming out so hard; in some cases, I not even got full travel.
    I was so impressive with the improvement on the shock, it is working a lot better now, on a more progressive form.
    I want to test it on a proper trail, with lot of rock gardens and roots, to see how it will work on the mid travel, but so far, so good.
    And I still have the option to reduce it to 23mm if I think it's to much progressive....

    IMO, if you are having problems of bottoming out on a high volume shock, you should definitely give it a try. I am far from being a experienced bike mechanic, and went through it very easily; it really is an easy task!
    The results are quite amazing...

    DGC, thank you for this post!

    Cheers,
    Take some time riding to figure out what works for you. Good to hear you like what the shim is doing for you.

    DGC.
    OUCH...!!!!!!

  49. #199
    Just roll it......
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    DGC, a few of the new Chilcotin owners have also been playing with your shim on the rp23's that came stock on those bikes. The XV air can seems slightly too big for some of the owners' style.

    I'm messing around with the Fox shims, but same idea.

    Thanks dude!
    EB

  50. #200
    Now with flavor!!
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    Just in case anyone is wondering........If you don't have a small volume air can or don't have access to ptex, you can fill up the external sleeve with slick honey and it works the same way.

    I've got a specialized sx that was WAY too linear and that's something I did with one of the shocks I have for it.

    Just make sure you don't cover up the exchange hole.
    STRAVA: Enabling dorks everywhere to get trails shut down........ all for the sake of a race on the internet.

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