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  1. #51
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    This mod rules!

    Tried it on my '07 Spot with PUSH-tuned RP23 with HV can this weekend and it let me drop 10psi on the shock and run about 2mm more sag to end up with the same amount of travel left (1/4" left from top of O-ring to end of body) on a local trail that includes a few 1 to 2 ft dirt jumps and drops. The small bump compliance improved a lot by being able to reduce pressure and add a little sag. All this without introducing any BOB or need to run Propedal even at the lower sag (about 14 mm vs 12 before).

    I'm assuming that using all the travel or "bottoming out" would get that O-ring to just about to fall the end of the shaft, right (maybe 1 or 2mm from the end of the body), right?

    Thanks!

  2. #52
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    Thanks for the info. & instructions

    My Intense Tracer VP suffers with the same problems and I have just installed a 25mm wide CD lid shim.

    Cheers

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by iDrew
    My Intense Tracer VP suffers with the same problems and I have just installed a 25mm wide CD lid shim.

    Cheers
    CAUTION: THIS MODIFICATION IS SUITABLE FOR TURNER BICYCLES ONLY!
    The drive towards achievement and success is the motive power of civilization.

  4. #54
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    Hello,

    I think i gonna try it also.

    What type of plastic is it or where can i find it? Where is the material normally used for?

    As far as i understand it is used in the ski business?

    Thanks in advance.

  5. #55
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    Hi there!

    I solved the whole bottoming out problems by changing to a DHX Air 5.0. I do like to run a bit more sag, to get the bottombraket low and I am running a Talas with 140mm in Front, so sometimes also the headangle was a bit to steep for my riding style. For my kind of riding the RP23 was also a bit to linear, especialy in the mid travel.

    On the DHX Air the volume of the piggybag is almost the smallest - 150psi on the boostvalve. I had to remove some material from the volumeadjuster to fit it into my Spot. But my spot is a prototype, so I dontīt know if you got that same thing going on with the new Spots.
    But the main improvement - imho - is the boost valve. If the new Shocks from Fox work the same as the DHX Air then you get a "bottomless" and perfect suspensionfeel. As I am not a english nativespeaker ist hard for me to tell you the exactly differences but "perfect" matches the feeling really good. I ride different bikes everyday, caus itīs part of my job, but there is really no bike that comes even close to my spot in the setup I ride it now. No joke here!
    But I will try the DGC modification also, simply because the RP23 is lighter.
    Anyways, I will show you my Spot here in the next few weeks, then you all see why i love it

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    26Zoll.com • The page is in german, but you can look at the pictures ...
    Last edited by Feuerlocke; 05-12-2009 at 08:53 AM.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatboy66
    Hello,

    I think i gonna try it also.

    What type of plastic is it or where can i find it? Where is the material normally used for?

    As far as i understand it is used in the ski business?

    Thanks in advance.
    All is revealed in the first post, someone mentioned a CD cylindrical cover that's what I used on my DHXa, probably use and ice cram container, anything around home works great for me I had it in stock and a stanley knife rest is history I went a bit wider as I'm heavier don't notice the mid travel blow through anymore it ramps up nice on the DHX no bottom out and I'm running at least 20psi less in the main chamber probably more like 30 but who's counting! Get err done report back! Def worth trying less or more imo especially on the DHXa DG probably has it pretty dialed on the RP float, I don;t have one so can't comment on that shock!
    Just riding a muddy trail. . ..

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  7. #57
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    Thanks. I cut out the cd cover.

    It is 0.9 mm thick and i made it about 2.2 wide.

    I gonna install it today and then i am gonna test it in Lake Garda Italy next week.

  8. #58
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    hi guys,
    nice mod
    i was just about to order a low volume air sleeve but now i'll have to give this a try

    does this mod also prevent the shock from wallowing in the mid stroke? (depending on the size of the shim?)

  9. #59
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    I think that, depending on the size of the shim, the "spring rate" progressiveness will be more noticeable earlier in the travel. With the recommended sizes above, the change is very subtle, but noticeable and measurable towards the end of the stroke.

    The cool thing is, it's so easy to make a few shims of different sizes and then take with you to your local trail to test and swap, back and forth and figure out what works best for you between shim size and air pressure, etc.

  10. #60
    DGC
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    Dgc

    Quote Originally Posted by obergine
    hi guys,
    nice mod
    i was just about to order a low volume air sleeve but now i'll have to give this a try

    does this mod also prevent the shock from wallowing in the mid stroke? (depending on the size of the shim?)
    It will lessen mid stroke wallow a little as you are reducing the air volume inside the sleeve, but before you commit to the idea for reducing the wallow, read the rest of my post:

    I found more mid stroke support on the TNT and Horst Spots far more necessary than on the DW bike. I tried a bigger 25mm shim on my DW but that is too much for me. The front end then feels too steep with even more mid stroke support than the DW already supplies in stock form. You get harshness from the mid stroke on, and nearly impossible to get full travel by using too much shim. The rear of the bike starts to get bounced off line, I even felt the front to rear suspension pitching in some corners. So at the aid of more mid stroke support, other things then change.
    How much is too much shim? It depends on you the rider. So pay attention to the ride once you try the shim.
    A few mm's of shim width goes a long way on the DW as does Pro Pedal.
    Before I really brought my shim idea out in the open about 4 years ago, I spent months riding different sized shims mostly in my dhx-a and RP23 on my TNT bike, I even tried cutting out circles and other shapes into the shim, adding tape to the edges etc.
    I did the same with my DW Spot by bringing along 5 shims to start with, though on the second shim try, I had the sized pretty much nailed down thanks to the time and work spent on the shims previously. Trying different sizes is a good way to find out what you will like. 2-3 mm's of width change will be felt on the DW Spot.

    Think of it like using tri flow for chain lube, a little goes a long way, a lot can get you into trouble...!!!!!
    OUCH...!!!!!!

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by DGC
    It will lessen mid stroke wallow a little as you are reducing the air volume inside the sleeve, but before you commit to the idea for reducing the wallow, read the rest of my post:

    I found more mid stroke support on the TNT and Horst Spots far more necessary than on the DW bike. I tried a bigger 25mm shim on my DW but that is too much for me. The front end then feels too steep with even more mid stroke support than the DW already supplies in stock form. You get harshness from the mid stroke on, and nearly impossible to get full travel by using too much shim. The rear of the bike starts to get bounced off line, I even felt the front to rear suspension pitching in some corners. So at the aid of more mid stroke support, other things then change.
    How much is too much shim? It depends on you the rider. So pay attention to the ride once you try the shim.
    A few mm's of shim width goes a long way on the DW as does Pro Pedal.
    Before I really brought my shim idea out in the open about 4 years ago, I spent months riding different sized shims mostly in my dhx-a and RP23 on my TNT bike, I even tried cutting out circles and other shapes into the shim, adding tape to the edges etc.
    I did the same with my DW Spot by bringing along 5 shims to start with, though on the second shim try, I had the sized pretty much nailed down thanks to the time and work spent on the shims previously. Trying different sizes is a good way to find out what you will like. 2-3 mm's of width change will be felt on the DW Spot.

    Think of it like using tri flow for chain lube, a little goes a long way, a lot can get you into trouble...!!!!!
    thanks a lot for those comments

    i'll try it on my horst linked bike
    the thing that i'll keep in mind is field testing then i'll see if i need to add or cut some mm's to the shim

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by obergine
    hi guys,
    nice mod
    i was just about to order a low volume air sleeve but now i'll have to give this a try

    does this mod also prevent the shock from wallowing in the mid stroke? (depending on the size of the shim?)
    Well I did this to my DHXa which I took off the spot and currently running it on the RFX light ghey

    Since I'm not in fighting shape at mo and my riding is ghey as well hardly worthy of riding the RFX but I love my Dh setup plus its comfy so for injury recovery is better body position for me I find I'm riding most in intial stroke and especially mid stroke and I haven't noticd any wallow, I'm running about 30psi less in the main chamber so probably closer to 30% sag now so I don;t get too sore in my neck and back and I'm not bottoming out with my lard arse and clumsy riding ability at mo!

    I made my shim bigger due to using a TNT version Turner and also I'm bigger than DGC its working great for me, I'm somehow even thinking its not such a bad shock at mo! So am happy, still coil is nicer, but I'm surprised at how this is performing!

    Def do it before getting a LV can its so easy and cheap to do
    Just riding a muddy trail. . ..

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  13. #63
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    Fitted a piece of plastic from 1 litre milk bottle to my 08 spot with rp23.Tried a piece 20 mm wide and went out for a quick blast made a very good improvement.Came back and swapped this out for a 24mm wide one and went for a 15mile ride this evening,wow what a difference i had been playing with air pressures in the rear shock for about a month and couldnt get what i wanted.This mod allows me to run the correct sag and still gives me a good ramp up at the end of the stroke,i couldnt get this before i could get plush but bottoms out or harsh that dosent bottom out.I am 225lbs so i am a fairly large lad.Thsi saves me buying a standard can kit to fit mine.
    Thanks DGC

  14. #64
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    Very neat, going to try this on my '08 Ventana for the same reasons. Also borderline clyde at about 225 lbs nekid and running into the same issues. If anyone has comments I'm all ears. Very neat...

  15. #65
    DGC
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    Ventana

    Quote Originally Posted by dieselcruiserhead
    Very neat, going to try this on my '08 Ventana for the same reasons. Also borderline clyde at about 225 lbs nekid and running into the same issues. If anyone has comments I'm all ears. Very neat...
    As far as on your Ventana goes, try some different shim sizes til you get what you like.
    I brought an 05 Specialized Enduro with a dhx-a back to life big time when I put a shim in it. But there is mostly Turner bikes using the shim so far though a few have tried it on other bikes, have at it on your Ventana and post back after some saddle time.
    You could start with 137x22mm and see how it feels, if it is too much, just take that shim out and trim it down 1-2mm. A difference in length of just 1mm can be felt.
    OUCH...!!!!!!

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by DGC
    But there is mostly Turner bikes using the shim so far though a few have tried it on other bikes,...
    I've got about 4 rides on a Float R with the "DGC" shim mod fitted on my Titus Supermoto. I cut a piece of a quart-sized yogurt container to 135x20mm (not a very straight cut).

    So far, I really like it. It has diminished much of the mid-stroke wallow and bottoming is much more controlled.

    DGC, thanks for the tip.
    Extreme stationary biker.

  17. #67
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    I ended up using about 4 ccs of oil, seems to be dialed bike really snapped to life so far... If it helps, had a lot of trouble finding P tex base even here in Park City of all places... I might switch to the p tex though now that I finally sourced some...

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by DH_WP
    Wow, this is such a huge resource of information.... one question though... how do I do this on a standard PR23 that I am constendly bottoming out when I run the recomended 15mm sag on my Mojo... I need the Boost at the end of the stroke thing...
    I weight about 86kg.

    Thanks
    The whole idea behind this is reducing the volume of air. Rather than adding a plastic shim, which obviously works wonderful but sketches me out, you can add shock oil instead. I'm about 10 lbs heavier than you and have the same problem. After talking to derby I think I've got the solution:

    1) Remove shock from bike
    2) REMOVE ALL AIR
    3) With the can-side mount padded and gripped in a vice, you'll be able to unscrew the can (just use your hands, it should come off with a solid twist). Even with the main chamber empty there's still pressure on it, so it'll spring open a bit when you get past the last thread - don't freak out.
    4) Add shock oil. For your weight start with about 3/4 tsp (~3.75ml)**.
    5) Have fun trying to hold the can to the threads while turning it enough to catch.
    6) Replace shock on bike.
    7) Ride and report back.

    I've gotten as far as step 6, but I'm waiting on replacement handlebars and fork-lower :-(.
    I know it'll ramp up the compression, I'm dying to know if it'll prevent bottoming.


    **3/4 tsp (~3.75ml) is the same volume as adding a shim that's 120mm x 20mm x 1.5mm. To figure out a different volume, google is an amazing tool: "3600 cubic mm in tsp"

    -Minsky
    All your base are belong to ME.

  19. #69
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    You don't want to add oil into the air cylinder of a FLOAT series shock as it will bypass the main air seal via the transfer port in the air can and collect in the negative chamber of the shock. The pooling will negatively effect the function of the shock and additionally cause excessive weeping of fluid onto the shock body causing the seals to prematurely wear.

    Stick with the DGC mod as a DIY mod as it doesn't tamper with the shocks function in a negative way.

    Darren

  20. #70
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    Darren - refer to my post # 7 above - Haven't had this problem with the RP23 (touch wood). Nothing seems to migrate into the neg chamber and certainly not out and onto the shock shaft....

    Anyway, can I send you my shock yet?
    A green bird with a red body. We could look it up in a book. Or we could look up

  21. #71
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    I did the oil route on my RP23 as well, 3.5cc and it worked wonderfully. It's also been at least a month like that an no weeping so far. That said I wanted to do the shim mod but couldn't find P-tex here at that thickness including here in Park City of all places. I might just cut up my trash can like DT

  22. #72
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    i'm using a cutout from the sides of a bucket of soda ash i used for my pool. thickness is around 1.0-1.1mm . material is probably some variation of polyethylene.

  23. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by frorider
    would be interesting if Darren or DT commented on the upcoming boost valve version of the RP23:

    This is a something to watch out. Will the TURNER Bikes be equipped with the 2010 Fox Float RP23 Boost Valve.

  24. #74
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    Earlier in the thread I think they mentioned they're not.. . Or, elsewhere in the forum.. I'm going to have to read up on the boost valve, see what hte hell it is... I recall DT saying it wasn't for them...

  25. #75
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    cut and installed the shim last night. Rode this morning and no bottoming out at all on a route I usually hit bottom on several times... and I was ruinning 30% sag. I'm short on funds so it was great to find a solution using some plastic I had around the house. Great innovative thinking here. Thanks for the low... no cost solution.

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