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  1. #1
    Knomer
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    Does the Chris King BB grease injector tool work with the cranks on?

    It's kinda hard to tell how that tool works from the pix on their site, but if you have to take the cranks off you might as well just pop off the seal rings and do the job by hand. What is everyone's fav lube for crank & hub bearings? I use rock n' roll super web for headset & pivot bearings, but it seems a little thick for fully rotating bearings like crank & hub.

    And what about their bb cup tool, are the Chris King splines really any different than all the other brands? Does it really necessitate it's own tool? Altho it being a ratchet tool is pretty cool for torque purposes.

    Holla atta playa.

  2. #2
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    Judging by this video from the Competitive Cyclist I would say no, you cannot use the tool with the cranks on.

    http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...%26BRAND.ID%3D

    I just use Pedro's Syngrease for lubing the bottom bracket.

  3. #3
    Moosehead
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    Yes, you need to pull cranks and spindle cups for regrease tool. While the tool works well and flushes old grease for new without removing cups, it ain't cheap and I too expected a zerk style no fuss procedure.

    I was able to use typical Park Tool external bb wrench without marring the CK bb's.


    http://chrisking.com/files/pdfs/BB%2...11-08-A%20.pdf
    Last edited by moosehead; 05-24-2010 at 10:50 AM.

  4. #4
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    My experience is that the tool is easy to use but causes other problems. The o-ring held in by a metal retention ring can and will eventually push out causing a slight headache. You then have to remove the retention ring and replace the o-ring. Nothing big, just obnoxious. Maybe someone else has some advice on keeping this from happening.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dusty Bottoms
    you might as well just pop off the seal rings and do the job by hand.
    Yep, pretty easy to do, I do it with my XT/LX cranks. Pretty dumb design that requires you to take off the cranks when you can just pop the dust seals. On older bikes that had grease-ports on the BB, you also didn't have to take the cranks off. I don't know what CK was thinking.

    If you ever need new bearings, just buy the enduro-bearings from enduroforkseals, they press in and are bigger than stock, they also get rid of that plastic sleeve. Only $12-15 bucks too. How many bearings can you buy for the cost of a "CK BB"?

    CK: When the best is just too hard to design.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  6. #6
    Knomer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem
    Yep, pretty easy to do, I do it with my XT/LX cranks.

    If you ever need new bearings, just buy the enduro-bearings from enduroforkseals, they press in and are bigger than stock, they also get rid of that plastic sleeve. Only $12-15 bucks too. How many bearings can you buy for the cost of a "CK BB"?
    Word. I've been rockin' the enduro bearings in my race face cups for a few years now, damn easy to service. Stop trying to talk me out of spending more money!

  7. #7
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    In fairness to CK, there's a bit more to it...

    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem
    Yep, pretty easy to do, I do it with my XT/LX cranks. Pretty dumb design that requires you to take off the cranks when you can just pop the dust seals. On older bikes that had grease-ports on the BB, you also didn't have to take the cranks off. I don't know what CK was thinking.

    If you ever need new bearings, just buy the enduro-bearings from enduroforkseals, they press in and are bigger than stock, they also get rid of that plastic sleeve. Only $12-15 bucks too. How many bearings can you buy for the cost of a "CK BB"?

    CK: When the best is just too hard to design.
    I had the chance to talk Chris himself a couple of years ago at a show. The BB's had only been out a few months and I had the same questions as Dusty. Here's whay CK told me (keep in mind I'm very very stupid on many things, but most of all wrenching) about the design.

    Said they tried different methods (zirks) but couldn't make them work for what they wanted. Said they wanted a design that would do a couple of things; 1) purge ALL the gunk that gets inside the BB and they weren't able to do this with any other desings 2) Let the rider choose the grease of their choice for each application. Point 2 is where things got interesting. He told me they did tests with riders using different "weights" of grease and they could all tell the differnce in resistance. Their theory is that if they used this design, that each individual rider could tweak their ride for their need (ie, the guy riding wet terain and doing water crossings could use a better suited grease than say the weekend racer boy who wants the smoothest spinning stuff available). Like I said, take it for what it's worth, but that was the story the "Legend" gave to me.

    Dusty....just spend those crusty $$'s.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Otter
    Their theory is that if they used this design, that each individual rider could tweak their ride for their need (ie, the guy riding wet terain and doing water crossings could use a better suited grease than say the weekend racer boy who wants the smoothest spinning stuff available).
    You'd have to be pretty fanatical to go to all that trouble just to change the grease viscosity based on the ride you were doing. That said, I think I will try Prep-M next time, as the Syn Grease seemed a bit thick. Maybe a thinner grease will be less likely to blow out the o-ring too?
    A government big enough to give you everything you want is a government big enough to take from you everything you have.

  9. #9
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    Point two is ridiculous.

  10. #10
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    So in regards to the different weights of grease...Where do you get light weight/thin viscosity grease for a standard grease gun that fits zerks?

    My grease gun looks like this...
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  11. #11
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    I wouldn't disagree with you, but....

    Quote Originally Posted by glitz
    Point two is ridiculous.
    how many people do you see out buying $125 BB's with ceramic bearings?? A crap ton and I believe CK is trying to capture some of that market but with a much more durable product. Just my guess.

  12. #12
    Knomer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Otter
    A crap ton

    Is a lot.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by glitz
    Point two is ridiculous.
    There is a market for it... some people justify $3k on a frame, others drop $100 for ceramic bearings...

  14. #14
    Living the Dream
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    Do you need to buy a special tool to press in the enduro

    bearings? Thanks. BTW, Iraq still sucks in case anyone was wondering.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem
    Yep, pretty easy to do, I do it with my XT/LX cranks. Pretty dumb design that requires you to take off the cranks when you can just pop the dust seals. On older bikes that had grease-ports on the BB, you also didn't have to take the cranks off. I don't know what CK was thinking.

    If you ever need new bearings, just buy the enduro-bearings from enduroforkseals, they press in and are bigger than stock, they also get rid of that plastic sleeve. Only $12-15 bucks too. How many bearings can you buy for the cost of a "CK BB"?

    CK: When the best is just too hard to design.
    "And I shout that your all fakes and you should have seen the look on your face"

  15. #15
    Elitest thrill junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpenglow
    bearings? Thanks. BTW, Iraq still sucks in case anyone was wondering.
    Not really, I think I used the old bearings and a tap to get them in there. It's no different than installing any other pressed-in bearing. Be carefull and you'll be fine.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  16. #16
    Code Burr
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpenglow
    Do you need to buy a special tool to press in the enduro bearings? Thanks. BTW, Iraq still sucks in case anyone was wondering.
    Yeah for shimano i'm pretty sure you need the enduro press. The bearing sit almost flush in the cups. There's not really any room for a screwdriver or tap last time I looked. If you have a fsa mega exo bb they are really easy to replace. I used a small vice to press them in and a star nut tool to remove. You can find them dirt cheap on ebay. I havent tried it on a race face bb.

    edit - jayem, when I tried to remove my shimano bearings I couldnt see a way to drive them out since they sit almost flush. Did you have to fab something up for removal?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by thebronze
    Yeah for shimano i'm pretty sure you need the enduro press. The bearing sit almost flush in the cups. There's not really any room for a screwdriver or tap last time I looked. If you have a fsa mega exo bb they are really easy to replace. I used a small vice to press them in and a star nut tool to remove. You can find them dirt cheap on ebay. I havent tried it on a race face bb.

    edit - jayem, when I tried to remove my shimano bearings I couldnt see a way to drive them out since they sit almost flush. Did you have to fab something up for removal?
    They were not flush, almost flush is not flush. Just used a tap and a mallet and they came out fine. But yeah, there are other ways to do it.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  18. #18
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    cool thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem
    They were not flush, almost flush is not flush. Just used a tap and a mallet and they came out fine. But yeah, there are other ways to do it.
    Appreciate the help.
    "And I shout that your all fakes and you should have seen the look on your face"

  19. #19
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    I use one of these to remove old bearings; it's very inelegant, but works well (it does shave a bit off the interior of a Shimano shell). The cup also works very nicely to hold the BB cup while pressing in the new bearing. I use a bench vise... A glue clamp would work well too.

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    https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...7&category=215

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