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  1. #1
    Nicole? Papa?
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    Do you route under or over your taco? (Large Spot)

    About to route my newly drilled full outers on my Large 2007 5 Spot and wondered what you lot did (and why)?

    Also, any advice on how much flex to leave extra on my rear mech and and rear brake hose? (pics would be most welcome!)

    Thanks folks!

  2. #2
    gravity curmudgeon
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    I run my cables as per the recommendations on the Turner website:

    http://www.turnerbikes.com/08tech.html#Routing

    A couple of helpful images from that page:


  3. #3
    mtbr member
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    On the rear derailleur cable.....I was having trouble with ghost shifting over larger rear suspension compressions. I moved the cable outside of the taco, and the ghost shifting is gone. I was able to replicate it by disconnecting the shock and moving the suspension through its motion.

  4. #4
    Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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    i was 7 letters away from bein done when my pc locked up so im startin all over again. i hope ya appriciate the effort!

    all lines and housing should flow, no kinks, no bunching, no streaching. line length from yer controls to the 1st set of stops behind the head tube are also very important. my trick on xc bikes is to turn the bars 90 deg and measure length from there cuz brake levers hittin the top tube normally wont allow them to go much further. with med to big travel rigs, i turn em 180 deg to allow for bigger falls and a higher chance of things goin backwards in a crash due to a higher bar position. both also allow for easy bar/stem or individual control removal when serviceing things.

    all that bein said, i run under the taco and have for many years with no negitive impact. ya may wanna consider some helicopter/ski tape on the taco to keep the lines from bein cut. you can see all this in the 1st pic. this method keeps everything from gettin snagged and keeps it lookin sano.

    if yer runnin a remote/adjustable post, ya may wanna consider havin it follow the rear brake line sharin a single zip tie in each of the 3 mount points as seen in the 2nd pic.

    i run the front brake line inside the fork leg with a single zip tie on the upper part of the slider or usin the supplied mount dependin on fork design, up to the lever in front of the bridge with another single zip tie if needed dependin on the fork again and sometimes the lever/line angle itself, and under the rear brake line. this keep the line from potential damage, floppin around or gettin snagged. the 3rd pic shows the plan.

    note: i know ya drilled the crap outta yer stops so yer housing might slide around. with full housing, the loops dont matter quite as much as overall housing length. lets just hope ya didnt drill the f der stop on the seat tube. for now, lets assume the housing will stay snug:

    the r der loop is straight forward enough but maybe one of the most misunderstood and important routes to run as it directly impacts shiftin performance. dependin on der type, theres 2 very diff ways to do it.
    the 4th pic shows a typical sram der. the housing should just reach the last frame stop and the der stop in 1 flowing run with the chain in the mid ring and small cog. pretty simple but length is critical. remember, no bunching or streaching.

    a typical shimano der is shown in the 5th pic. this is the tougher of the 2 and the most critical of all due to the big loop and the drag thats inherant of this. a avid rollamajig is a big plus and reduces the loop by roughly 60 deg makin the shift performance much better (sorry, no pics of the rollamajig). start in the same mid/low chain position as the sram setup. insert the housing with yer frerruel into the der. now loop it up to the last frame stop. as ya move the housing back n forth at the frame stop as if ya were adding and subtracting loop length, keep a close eye on the der barrel adjuster/housing loop. the ideal length is when the housing is in perfect allignment with the barrel adjuster. now dont move it as ya look up at the frame stop and cut where the housing bottoms inside the stop tryin to allow for the ferruels extra thickness.
    i hope this helps. sorry for the long delay gettin the info to ya. fockin pc!
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    Last edited by cactuscorn; 05-05-2008 at 10:48 AM.
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  5. #5
    Mr.Secret
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    I route mine the old recommended by Turner way. Brake outside the taco, rear der. off the non-drive side cable stop under the taco. I pin down,cross, the rear der. cable with the front der. cable and then go around the non-drive side of the seat tube to the seat tube cable stop with the front der. I'll post a pic later when I'm back at MY computer.
    ...think we'll ever get outta' this world alive ?...

  6. #6
    Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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    good point. i forgot to mention the cross over. i run the r der housing over the f der piece under the taco but i keep both on the drive side (may have to look again at yer method). brake line runs under the r der housing to keep it off the taco as much as possible. id rather replace a small bit of housing than a hydro line.

    again, the idea is flow and it starts up front. heres some new and better shots of the sram r der run and the fork options as well as a idea i used on my old burner that i may try on the tacoed rfx. as a bonus, some better shots of the talus w/o any hydro guides. enjoy!
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  7. #7
    trail fairy
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    Well I tried someones zip tie idea shown here a few months back and its a sweet little idea I have no picks, but its routed as per DTs piccs above from the Turner website, one zip tie around the seattube looping a small tie through st zt then around brake hose cut end of zt hold nice looks factory and is clean and tidy I also did my cable rd side just for kicks and giggles of course I can't dirt tet it at the mo but I like admiring my handi work, took me ages cause Im a bit slow moving, should take ya about 5min
    Just riding a muddy trail. . ..

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  8. #8
    Mr.Secret
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    Quote Originally Posted by R.T.R.
    I route mine the old recommended by Turner way. Brake outside the taco, rear der. off the non-drive side cable stop under the taco. I pin down,cross, the rear der. cable with the front der. cable and then go around the non-drive side of the seat tube to the seat tube cable stop with the front der. I'll post a pic later when I'm back at MY computer.
    Some pics from today, IN THE DIRT, and mud.
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    ...think we'll ever get outta' this world alive ?...

  9. #9
    Gold it's the new Pink!
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    On my 6 pack we did all cables under the taco and it was really smooth. I think for ease of set up is why the rear hydraulic lines are not recommended under the taco. Bleeding the rear was a lot of extra work but it did look so much smoother.

    Crimson

  10. #10
    Nicole? Papa?
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    Thanks for all the great advice and shots. A particularly big shout out to cactuscorn for taking the time to retype all that. It's now bookmarked!

  11. #11
    Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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    is that a ti flat bar on a rfx? i take back everything nice i ever said about ya.
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  12. #12
    Mr.Secret
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactuscorn
    is that a ti flat bar on a rfx? i take back everything nice i ever said about ya.
    I was waiting for that one, it's a Spot though.
    ...think we'll ever get outta' this world alive ?...

  13. #13
    Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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    so it is. nice slippery pig bottle too. is that a 45+ deg ibis forged ti stem i spy?
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  14. #14
    Mr.Secret
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactuscorn
    so it is. nice slippery pig bottle too. is that a 45+ deg ibis forged ti stem i spy?
    Moots Ti Beam 25 degree....Brady from the ' Pig sent me the bottles and a pretty cool' Pig jersey.
    ...think we'll ever get outta' this world alive ?...

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