definitive SRAM derailleur setup thread??
I switched over from XTR 8sp to '08 X9 triggers & long cage derailleur and 11-34 XT M770 cassette. My shifting is okay, but not what I'd call perfect. I've been toying with the B screw adjustment, trying to get it dialed in perfectly, but something just isn't right. I'll get ghost shifts on every ride and something that just feels like dirty shifting. The center and rear cable housings are not pulling tight when the suspension is uncompressed, so I do not think this problem is associated with too short of cable housing. Could you folks post up your SRAM setup steps? Thanks. Oh, one more thing. My chain is noisier than crap when in the larger cogs. I'm running the CN-7701 chain and a SRAM gold power link. The chain starts out quiet at the beginning of the ride, but it quickly goes loud again, and by the end of a 20 mile ride, it's just flat noisy. Not the sound of chain skipping, but just from the sound of chain rolling along jocky wheels and cassette cogs. When the bike is in the stand and I'm spinning the cranks fast enough backwards that the center pivots of the chain are a blur, I can see the jocky wheels are not perfectly centered on the chain. However, if I tighten or slacken (can't remember which way the wheels are not centered) the barrel adjuster, my shifting seems to suffer. Kind of frustrating. It's almost like I took a step backward from '98 XTR shifters and a M950 12-32 cassette.
"However, if I tighten or slacken (can't remember which way the wheels are not centered) the barrel adjuster"
Did you adjust the limit screws or are you trying to adjust it with just the cable tension?
Originally Posted by nachomc
Follow the setup guide which came with the derailleur or download it again from SRAM, or follow the derailleur tuning guide at www.parktool.com/repair
Local Bike Store: see your favorite mechanic.
If you have a SRAM Cassette, use a sram chain.
No difference, once again. I've used all brands of chain with the cassette. If you want to go by my experience, KMC chains work best with the 990 cassette, otherwise, no difference.
Originally Posted by zkampyman
I would run the barrel adjuster out about 5-7 clicks, then upshift to the highest gear/smallest cog. At this point, loosen or tighten the cable just enough so it would want to almost downshift to eight. It seems when I do this, and loosen the cable at the barrel adjuster, I get enough of the slackness to let it go into 9 easily. At this point, you're able to use the barrel adjuster to make things perfect. Works for me everytime, but you have to also check the limit screws.
Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
i agree with zk but for diff reasons. sram chains just last longer and thats a good chunk of cash at the end of a year.
Make sure they a good LBS first, its an easy $35 40 bucks!
Mount ya shirfter on ya bar attached to the stem frame etc hopefully, sounds obvious but hey Im covering all bases..
I use full length cable on my RFX, experiment, and Nokons on my Spot, 3yrs still running sweet!
Hopefully ya have a bike stand though it makes it easier but not nessecary ya can use your car hitch holder or tie down over a rafter through the seat!
Or just ask the Mrs to hold this and my beer in yer other hand and don't move for 10min
1: if ya got a PK derailluer hanger alingment gauge check ya hanger
2: mount RD to frame
3: mount ya rear wheel [ this might work best with 1: at this stage lol]
4: set ya H and L set screws with the largest and smallest cogs in line
5: measure ya outer cables for there different points, I like em close not tight but not too slack, I run my cable's around the HT imo looks better on Turners TT routing and provides less kink in the cable so smoother internal cable shifting less friction! also better in crashes when the bar does its spin, less damage or chance of kinking, in my experience! I follow the same with my brake cables, I run em moto [note the right way LOL]
6:run the inner cable through to the end pull gently so it takes up the slack but dosen't take any spring tension this is important otherwise you will not be able to fine tune from the barrel adjuster and is a possible cause of ghost shifting, do not cut cable yet!
7: if the chain is not yet on, mount chain, shift chain into the center rear cog on ya rear cluster!
8: hopefully you already have the crank, FD already set!
shift the front rings up and down and also back pedal the cranks making sure the chain stays smoothly on ya rear middle cog if not use the barel adjuster to fine tune you should be able to do this all 3 front rings or 2 what ever your setup, then run up and down the cluster checking the shift are smooth and concise, I always do my back shifting at speed to see if my chain will jump in the cluster, usually get this first time no problems!
cut ya cable to length, I use a Zip tie through the underneath of the RD to secure the end so it keeps it outta crap and no kinking clamp on the end cap youre good to go..
9; Chain length can have a major impact on this, Chain guides cause no issue with this setup either, it works for me regardless! I tend ot run my chains a little tightr than an LBS for example usually one link depends, I get great mileage/wear out of all my gear!
10: I stand by my no mixing of transmissions, with Sram and Shimano, I have no problems with other chain brands just Shimano or vise versa on Shimano clusters and derailluers you will have better experience if running Shimano to use all Shimano, vice versa, but other chains can work well with Sram, I know Shimano make things to there own tolerances, but as some will say here they have no issues, but imo there will be enviroments it will cause issues why risk it, whats the point, the transmission was desinged to work together in this case to me its makes sense to follow that make ya choice which brand and stick with it! Add in different cranksets and there's a whole raft of variances, Sram is allot more tolerant imo of this, so front crank rings sets there clusters work better with more options, thats my opinion take it for what its worth, your money and time..
I will never mix them again, why cause since Ive run all Sram Ive never had the nightmares Ive had in the past, some were caused imo by bad mixng some by bad alignment and running gear, though all was XTR, I had run into this with many others on the trail and friends thats my experience! exception was the old 8sped days when XTR was best..
11: FD is pretty much the same with Sram, it dosen't get much simpler, set your hieght is the key I use a coin between the top ring big shift postion to set the height set the H n L and ya good to go with some fine tunning if needed!
Ive never touched my set screws that I can remember!
There are many combo's of wheel hub and interface setups so there could be some variances this is always the hard one to gauge, recently a CK hub service solved some shifting issues, so we are out own worst enemy if we don't maintain high end components, like cleaning your chain regulary your hubs need TLC as well, so this thread is great but look after your end components and they will look after you, a CK hub for example once a year minimum full service it should run indefinitley depending on conditions!
I think this is an important point cause we use JRA allot but never show piccs or use some basic elimination techniques!
Do not let LBS's talk you into something you feel is not right, Ive done this in the past and everytime its let me down, Im not knocking LBS! but do they ride what they sell, or are they a track cyclist, XC rider like you or DH rider, align them with what you ride, again some basics, are they 50kgs wringing wet or a 250lbs monster like you when they sell you that carbon post or lightweight 23mm rim and XC tire!
Just some other random tips, also support ya LBS if they look after you well, it saves you money in the long run if you have a good relationship, and for gawd sake take your bike into them clean! Nothing worse than working on someones dirte POS and they want it fixed yesterday
Even Turners need a good clean..
Well thats what works for me hope this helps, we should sticky this thread in the data base Im sure it will become a top thread!
Last edited by trailadvent; 07-14-2008 at 01:36 AM.
That is pretty much how I do mine, though from revisiting my setups on both bikes I think I run a little less tension than you do. One bike I had actually had to have a little slack in the cable when in high or it wouldn't shift properly, though that may have been because of a bent hangar.
Originally Posted by Jerk_Chicken
I have found that most ghost shifting can be eliminated by carefully adjusting the barrel adjuster, providing your high limit scew is set properly. YMMV.
I guess I should have prefaced my post with...
I've been setting up Shimano drivetrains since 1993 and have never had any of the problems I am currently experiencing with the SRAM setup I installed a couple weeks ago. These problems probably aren't a major issue, but I guess I was expecting more performance and less chain noise considering I'm upgrading from really old worn out stuff.
I probably also should have listed drivetrain parts in a line by line list.
I'm not doing anything different in my setup than when setting up a Shimano system. Although, the no-loop rear derailleur housing and the 1/4" gap between the cog and upper jockey wheel is a new thing for me.
- XT M770 11-34 cassette
- XTR CN-7701 chain
- '08 X9 triggers
- '08 X9 long cage rear derailleur
- XTR M961 front derailleur
- Race Face 94/58 9sp chain rings
- 113mm BB spindle
I'm also getting a bit of chainsuck every now and again. It's only happend a handful of times, but I'm very leary when dropping to the inner ring. No, I'm not dropping down while climbing or with the power poured on either. I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the 9sp chain and new 9sp rings. Perhaps tolerances are a little tight?
Oh wait, H & L screws, what are those used for? Seriously, I was expecting that kind of suggestion in the drivetrain forum, but not here.
ETA - I don't mean to sound ungrateful for the suggestions. However, a few of them were just plain silly. I get to know my LBS for chain lube and tires. I don't get to know my LBS' 18 year old shop mechanic because I'm old enough to be his father and I started rebulding the cone bearing hubs on my Schwinn Mini Scrambler when I was 8 years old. No, this doesn't mean I think I'm awesome, but it does mean I believe that a person who works on their own bike will have a perfectly tuned bike at all times, not just for the first month or two after their yearly overhaul.
Last edited by royta; 07-14-2008 at 06:17 PM.
I don't get it
I found that the SRAM stuff shifts better with more than the "standard" amount of b-screw tension.
Flame suit on, but I got my rear SRAM stuff to shift a lot better by waiting for it to wear out, then replacing it with Shimano cassette, chain, and shadow derailer.
The drive towards achievement and success is the motive power of civilization.
I thought this was the definitive "SRAM" setup thread