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  1. #1
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    Correct Burner CTD Shock Use

    Hi all, this is my first post here so please go easy on me


    I'm in the process of building up a Burner which is my first Turner and also my first DW Link bike. As such I have been reading any and all info I can find on setup so I can get the best from it when I finally get to hit the trails so when I received a newsletter from Ibis with a setup
    guide for their bikes I thought I'd give it a read as both Turner & Ibis bikes share the DW Link suspension & I reasoned that I may be able to utilise some of their tips. Whilst reading the section on the rear suspension setup I found this paragraph;



    'The pedaling efficiency of the dwlink
    suspension renders many of the
    features of the Fox CTD superfluous.
    For all but smooth pavement or fire
    road climbing, we recommend running
    the shock in the Descend setting.
    The increased low speed compression
    damping that Trail and Climb settings
    provide cut out much of the small
    bump sensitivity that our bikes are so
    well known for'

    Armed with this info' I checked out Turners tech pages & saw that there is similar advice for the Fox RP23 (i.e don't use Pro Pedal) but no advice specific to the CTD style shock.


    So do any DW Turner owners with CTD rear shocks run them on mainly descend or are there reasons why Turners version of the suspension may differ from Ibis & therefore I can utilise all the features of the shock? Does anyone know what the official word from Turner is on CTD shock settings?

    Anyway sorry for the essay but any thoughts and advice will be most welcome.

  2. #2
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    I'm a nobody, but I do agree with that paragraph.

    I run my CTD in Descend mode only. It feels as though the other settings are simply increases in compression, and in turn, the rebound settings suffer greatly and the DW-Link doesn't work as efficiently as it could.

    Additionally, a CC DBair with climbswitch is in my very near future. Hopefully it will remedy some of my concerns. Congrats on the new rig and good luck!
    2012 Turner DHR
    2013 Turner Burner

  3. #3
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    Set the sag wearing your full kit, adjust rebound to what feels right and go for a ride. You decide where and how to apply the compression adjustments.

    Have fun

    DT

  4. #4
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    Blimey those were quick replies including one from 'the boss', thanks guys. I shall follow that advice. To be honest it's exactly what I'd be doing anyway but I'm still waiting for stocks of Pikes to come back into the UK ( next week hopefully ) so for now I'm having to stare at my part built bike on the stand and read as much as I can find.

  5. #5
    jrm
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    The sag setting instructions for the 5spot worked for me. When setting sag on the fork and rear shock leave the CTD in descent. I use the trail setting darn near all the time. Als best rebound results seem to come from it being set between 1/2 and full open. YMMV
    Wreck the malls with cows on Harleys

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-Ha View Post
    I run my CTD in Descend mode only.
    Having ridden my new Burner (Fox Float CTD front and rear) for a few months now, I prefer both set to "T" for off-road.

    I set pressure initially by % sag, but now also look at what % of total travel is used on typical rides. ie, if the sag is right but you never use full travel, what is the point of the travel?

    In "D" mode sometimes it feels like the rear wallows under compression while turning or pedaling. As others have written, I've found "T" to be the best compromise between plush and stiff, in terms of comfort and ride stability. I also prefer the "trail" fine tuning setting on soft (1).

    As DT said, ride a lot and experiment with the settings.

  7. #7
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    I run it in D all the time, for me, either of the other two settings makes it feel really harsh.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-Ha View Post
    I'm a nobody, but I do agree with that paragraph.

    I run my CTD in Descend mode only. It feels as though the other settings are simply increases in compression, and in turn, the rebound settings suffer greatly and the DW-Link doesn't work as efficiently as it could.

    Additionally, a CC DBair with climbswitch is in my very near future. Hopefully it will remedy some of my concerns. Congrats on the new rig and good luck!
    Why would you want a climb switch for a DW bike? Confused.

    OP start with rebound wide open and adjust to your liking. Don't be afraid to have more sag than less. Your trails and riding style will dictate adjustments from there. Take a shock pump with you to adjust sag on the trail.

    Bob

  9. #9
    Anytime. Anywhere.
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    I have an 11 Spot and I do flip the switch for climbing on roads. It does firm it up but I'm not sure how much more efficient it is. If I had to buy a new shock and could save $100 by doing without CTD or pro-pedal I would.
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  10. #10
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    From Cane Creek: "The strength of CS lies in the fact that it provides climbing-specific chassis damping in both compression and rebound."

    And this review (on a DW-Link bike): Grams Light Bikes - Mountain Bike and Gear Reviews, and News: Introducing the Cane Creek DBair CS Rear Shock

    And my personal opinion: The CTD options are limited to adjustments in compression. While climbing the wonderful tech of VA and WV, the "climb" option feels very harsh and connectivity with the terrain is lost. I have a Burner with a CTD... A friend has a 5.Spot with CCDB/cs... We weigh comparable amounts... Sag is set correctly... The CCDB/cs feels more connected. Having experimented with options, I have justified the change.
    Last edited by J-Ha; 12-02-2013 at 06:37 AM.
    2012 Turner DHR
    2013 Turner Burner

  11. #11
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    Correct Burner CTD Shock Use

    I currently have a Pivot FB (DW link) with a DHX Air, which has a Pro Pedal switch. I'm not a suspension pro but I find the DW design works better with it off, which would be your D mode. I'm planning on a new Burner soon and after a test ride found it to be the same on the Burner as the FB, which was great to feel. I'm the set it and ride it type.

  12. #12
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    Since you don't have the squat and bob with the DW the feature is not needed..

  13. #13
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    I run mine on "Trail" nearly all the time. My riding is a bit more cross country than most Burner owners though, I think. On "Descend" the bike feels too active and sets too low in it's travel. I might try D with more air pressure sometime but really, I find the T setting suits me fine. (rebound set full open to two clicks in, depending)

  14. #14
    Appalachian Singletrack'n
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    I've been riding my new Burner for a week now and i can hardly tell any difference in the settings at all. I rode a Bronson a few weeks ago and flipping the switch to climb on that bike felt like a lockout. On my burner is a subtle difference at best between climb and descend. I wonder if i have a bad shock.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Endomaniac View Post
    I've been riding my new Burner for a week now and i can hardly tell any difference in the settings at all. I rode a Bronson a few weeks ago and flipping the switch to climb on that bike felt like a lockout. On my burner is a subtle difference at best between climb and descend. I wonder if i have a bad shock.
    Having ridden my Burner for 5 months (Fox CTD front and rear), I may have figured out how CTD works. I repeatedly ride 3 trails, going over the same bumps every week, while monitoring the ride quality and total travel used. it seems the T and D settings primarily affect the first portion of travel, but not the portion near bottom-out. ie, on D the suspension feels softer/plusher on smaller rocks, ruts, etc, then when set in T. However on big dips or G-outs the maximum travel is the same with D or T - as verified by the rubber o-rings.

    I notice this effect more with the fork than the shock, presumably because the hands are always holding the bars but when standing the saddle isn't smacking the tush. Over time the fork now seems to ride lower in its travel (more sag for a given PSI).

  16. #16
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    The "climb" setting could also be called the "kicks your a$$ in the air when you hit a bump and causes you to lose traction"-setting.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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