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  1. #1
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    CK rear hub adjustments?

    Ok, so I decided to bite the bullet and get rid of the Hope rear hub and following the beautiful pictures of CK rear hubs with fun bolts of late, I dived in!

    I have just tried to tighten the rear hub after a little spin (as the directions on the website suggested, it came loose) and find myself stuggling to work it out!!! Now I have the 20mm front hub and when pressing the very exposed allen bolt and turning it, this both torx the allen bolt and keeps the collar from sliding anti clockwise (you are pressing in a clockwise motion) but the rear hub is opposite to this and when pushing the very very hard to access with disc in place allen bolt the little sucker comes loose (turns anti clockwise). I have managed to tighten it by pressing a screw driver into the thread side of the collar, but not really enjoying this experience!

    Question is, am I missing a very simple process here? Would it not have made sence to have the collar fitting the same as the front hub whereby you push and tighten the allen bolt and collar does not slip open?

    If you can make sense of the above, I commend you For any input I thank you

  2. #2
    MK_
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    Are you talking about the collar that screws onto the axle and is held in place by the allen bolt, which oddly enough, is not metric but imperial sized?

    _MK
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  3. #3
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    that's the bolt he's talking about. I also got the rear hub with fun bolts, and my brain nearly fell out of my head trying to figure out why King didn't use a metric bolt for this

  4. #4
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    Yeh that's the sucker

    Quote Originally Posted by smelly
    that's the bolt he's talking about. I also got the rear hub with fun bolts, and my brain nearly fell out of my head trying to figure out why King didn't use a metric bolt for this
    Imperial hey! That'll explain the fact that I could only get the rounded end of the 2.5 mm allen key in there, whats the score with that little treasure?
    Now on the picture above of the front hub the bolt head is facing a clockwise so if you push slightly when tightening, it stays snug to the bearing and the job is a cinch, but the rear bolt head faces the anti clockwise direction, so therefor when I push a little to get the (now wrong allen key size) in there it loosens (thats if I can get it in there in the first place!! Could they have hidden the bolt any better! The manual says do it with the wheel in the frame, are they having a joke, or do I have a particularly recesed bearing collar?

    Unfortunatley buying CK hubs means no cash for a camera, therefore no graphic representation, I've trawled lots of CK hub pics, Zilla those gold ones are superb! but no close ups of the bolt in question to compare. M.K , Smelly if you have any tips, would be greatly appreciated, cos it still doesn't feel that tight if I wiggle the back wheel firmly!

  5. #5
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    It's a 3/32" allen that fits in there. I cut down my allen so that it will clear the rotor. It's pretty easy to adjust when the wheel is mounted, but you have to orient the lockring before you clamp down the funbolts or you could end up with the lockring bolt behind a frame component. One you have fit the correctly sized allen in there, you can use it as leverage to turn the lockring in either direction.

    I've too have always wondered why they chose to use an imperial bolt, and why they didn't make a small cut-out, or at least a taper on the disc flange for easier use of an allen.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by smudge
    It's a 3/32" allen that fits in there. I cut down my allen so that it will clear the rotor. It's pretty easy to adjust when the wheel is mounted, but you have to orient the lockring before you clamp down the funbolts or you could end up with the lockring bolt behind a frame component. One you have fit the correctly sized allen in there, you can use it as leverage to turn the lockring in either direction.

    I've too have always wondered why they chose to use an imperial bolt, and why they didn't make a small cut-out, or at least a taper on the disc flange for easier use of an allen.
    Talking to the CK importer on this side of the pond, they are saying because this is a mix match hub scenario (ISO hub with Tandem axel and fun bolts) that you should be prepared for it to not work perfectly and that the disc should be removed to get at the allen bolt!!-Saying that though, they still think that the 24mm CK axel has not been released yet!!

    I will go with the cut down allen key though, that sounds the trick, I did a similar thing with my old SC superlight to get at the main pivot on the drive side.

    Many thanks

    D

  7. #7
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    UK idiot importer??

    Quote Originally Posted by Dava
    Talking to the CK importer on this side of the pond, they are saying because this is a mix match hub scenario (ISO hub with Tandem axel and fun bolts) that you should be prepared for it to not work perfectly and that the disc should be removed to get at the allen bolt!!-Saying that though, they still think that the 24mm CK axel has not been released yet!!

    I will go with the cut down allen key though, that sounds the trick, I did a similar thing with my old SC superlight to get at the main pivot on the drive side.

    Many thanks

    D
    Is that evolution imports? Scary people them...

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