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  1. #1
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    Cassette stuck on Hope Pro II cassette carrier

    I have a SRAM 980 cassette on a Hope Pro II rear hub that is hopelessly stuck to the cassette carrier. Does anyone have some advice on how to remove it without destroying the hub shell?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Immobilize the cassette, then with pliers grab the outermost cog and twist it against the direction of rotation.

    At least this is how it works on a 990. Anything less than a 990 or XT and you're SOL.

    Buy the Hope stainless carrier.

  3. #3
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    ive had this happen a cpl times. once on a white industries hub years back on a out of town road bike trip, again recently on a king in the shop. its the hard steel cassette bits diggin into the softer alloy freehub body but ya probably knew that. what ive done is to get a semi big flat tipped screwdriver and gently pry each individual cog off in a very gradual circular fashion startin from the outside (smallest cog) 1st. normally youll find its 1 of the 1st 2 steel cogs hangin up. once the whole shebang is off, very carefully remove all burrs from the freehub with a smal, fine tooth file. take yer time on all steps or itll be expensive.

    i dont nessesarally agree with chickens method. though it might work, id think the risk of further damage would be high and the task more difficult. i also dont think yer sol with yer 980 or need a steel freehub. the steel versions wont do this, true, but some more regular attention or a upgrade to the 990 or another wider spider type cassette will slow it down. the white was kinda poopy and troublesome but my king is 8 or 9 years old and id never touched it so thats my fault.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactuscorn
    ive had this happen a cpl times. once on a white industries hub years back on a out of town road bike trip, again recently on a king in the shop. its the hard steel cassette bits diggin into the softer alloy freehub body but ya probably knew that. what ive done is to get a semi big flat tipped screwdriver and gently pry each individual cog off in a very gradual circular fashion startin from the outside (smallest cog) 1st. normally youll find its 1 of the 1st 2 steel cogs hangin up. once the whole shebang is off, very carefully remove all burrs from the freehub with a smal, fine tooth file. take yer time on all steps or itll be expensive.

    i dont nessesarally agree with chickens method. though it might work, id think the risk of further damage would be high and the task more difficult. i also dont think yer sol with yer 980 or need a steel freehub. the steel versions wont do this, true, but some more regular attention or a upgrade to the 990 or another wider spider type cassette will slow it down. the white was kinda poopy and troublesome but my king is 8 or 9 years old and id never touched it so thats my fault.
    I don't know how far you think I'm telling him to turn the outer cog.

  5. #5
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    less than 90?
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  6. #6
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    Like 0.5 degrees, the amount it's lodged into the freehub splines. That's 1/720 of a turn.

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    Similar to JC's method, you can try to use 2 chain whips. One to hold the cassette and the other to rotate the cog back.

  8. #8
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    I've been there with CK.



    It wasn't fun either.

    I tried 2 chain whips and got no joy. I eventually had to press the cassette off the freehub on a vice and a PVC ring.
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  9. #9
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    I currently have a 980 on a Hope alloy carrier, which is why I'm switching to the 990 cassette (see CC , I did listen to you --once ).

    The screwdriver method works, but you have to be super careful with the big flat bladed screwdriver. Pliers also work, as does the two chain whips. Once off, file the offending bits down and maybe slap a 990 on there, though of course, the damage has been done.

    Wondering how my Ti Hadley hub with 990 cassette will do.

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    Thanks guys, I'll give it a try.

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    i use the brute force and ignorance technique. after undoing the lockring pull the whole cassette and free hub off the hub. mind you catch the pawls, sprung loaded so quick......
    put the whole lot in a vice so the vice jaws DO NOT grip the free hubbut support the cassette. once you have it like this then get a piece of 2 x 1 and a mallet. put the 2 x 1 on to the top of the freehub where the lockring fits and hit the f*cker. it's not the prettiest solution but it's worked for me and used to be a local bike shop fix.

  12. #12
    Yes, that's fonetic
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    Happend to me w/a WTB hub. I got it off by using a hammer and a big screwdriver against the teeth of a middle ring. Tap in the opposite direction it's stuck. I had to file the freehub body before I could get another cassette on.
    It's a $hitty design of Sram with some or their cassettes not being sleeved inside, IMHO. I replaced w/an XT.
    Last edited by whodaphuck; 04-27-2008 at 11:43 AM.

  13. #13
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    sounds similar to zillas fix w/ a piece of pvc? i like this method alot as it sounds like it would put more even pressure on the whole mess. nice plan guys!

    the 2 whip idea is also semi cool but it sounds like the love is hard to find.

    not sure i dig yer idea phuck. was the cassette compatable with the trash can after that?

    thanx for listenin rd. ya may be the 1st. and yeah, any of these methods deserves patience and a light hand. specially when yer pryin delicate parts off each other.
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  14. #14
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    I used the screwdriver method and it worked like a charm. I pried off one cog at a time, knocking it off the single pin that holds the whole cassette together. This method destroys the cassette but it seemed the least likely to damage the freehub shell.

    The freehub body suffered some minor gouging but a quick brush with a file took care of that. I was amazed at the poor construction quality of the cassette assembly. A single 2mm diameter pin to hold the cassette together? At that point, I'd rather they give me cogs and spacers with no retaining pins, at least I could just replace the worn ones.

    Anyway, I had a spare SRAM 990 lying around, I installed it, and all it's good now.

    So which cassettes have a solid carrier inside? SRAM 990, Shimano XTR, how about Shimano XT?

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    I use the 990, but the top gears are always off the carrier. Those are the trouble spots. XT is the same.

    Don't go for the 980, as it has fewer gears on the carrier. The individually pinned gears are bad.. Some think just because the gears are pinned they won't flex individually.

  16. #16
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    the idea was not to pry the cogs off the spyder, but the individual pieces off the freehub. theyre designed to hold in torque, not in side load. sorry if somehow i didnt make that clear.

    chicken breath is correct. avoid cassettes with individually pinned cogs and spacers on alloy freehub bodys. besides the obvious damage they cause, they flex like arnold and weigh a ton. the more gears on a single carrier the better hense why i reccomend 990's now.

    the new 970 xtr looks like it holds 4 ti cogs and 2 ss cogs each on 3 diff spyders and the 11 or 12 t cog lives on its own next to the lockring, no spacers. hmmmm... not bad. like the 990, the xt has 5 on the spyder and 4 all alone, 1 spacer. this works. the 970 has 3 on a spyder, 5 more are spaced and pinned and the last is next to the lockring. poopy. the reason i hate spaced cogs so much is that theyre thin and gouge where as a carrier/spyder or wide individual cogs spread more mass and dig in less.
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  17. #17
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    BTW, the 990 is $65 at pricepoint right now.
    Astigmatic Visionary

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by nybike1971
    I have a SRAM 980 cassette on a Hope Pro II rear hub that is hopelessly stuck to the cassette carrier. Does anyone have some advice on how to remove it without destroying the hub shell?

    Thanks!
    i have the same prob with my hope 2. i tap the back of the cassette from the opposite side of the wheel with a flat screwdriver. actually it was more like whacking not tapping but it worked and the cassette went back on with mild force no prob. you can also get a new carrier from chainreaction

  19. #19
    No, that's not phonetic
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikezilla
    I've been there with CK.
    Don't blame King for your choice of ghetto cheap-ass cassettes.
    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by PSI
    i have the same prob with my hope 2. i tap the back of the cassette from the opposite side of the wheel with a flat screwdriver. actually it was more like whacking not tapping but it worked and the cassette went back on with mild force no prob. you can also get a new carrier from chainreaction
    Cheaper at Hope USA direct.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerk_Chicken
    Cheaper at Hope USA direct.
    Got a contact? Their website $uc$ dog balz.

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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactuscorn
    the idea was not to pry the cogs off the spyder, but the individual pieces off the freehub. theyre designed to hold in torque, not in side load. sorry if somehow i didnt make that clear.
    Oh, I got that, no worries. Given that I was going to throw away the cassette anyway because it was worn and my gears started skipping when I replaced the chain I decided not to waste too much time pulling it out in one piece. There was only one pin holding the cogs and spacers together so it was quite easy to pry the cogs off one by one without damaging the freehub body.

  24. #24
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    cool. i was worried a miscommunication cost ya $70. i shoulda figured there was a reason for pokin at it in the 1st place.
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  25. #25
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    while my 5 yr old CK's are still going strong, my last 3 rear hub purchases have all been hadleys. mmmm titanium freehub.

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