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  1. #1
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    New question here. burner " chain suck"

    I would like to know if anyone has had a problem with jumping from there top or med ring to there small ring and getting chain suck to your bottom brack area, I meet a guy on a trail with a 98 turner that has a constant problem and thinks its a design problem has also called turner and they say there is no problem "what do you think out there"?

  2. #2
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    It's a problem.

    I went back and forth w/ Turner about this, and they always told me it was a problem w/ my drivetrain. I.e. a properly adjusted drivetrain shouldn't be dropping a chain. Total crap. Not sure where/what they ride, but chains will drop off if it's rocky enough.

    I don't have it happen a lot, but I did get it jammed in there tightly enough once that I had to pull the crank off in order to get the chain out, and several of the links were bent.


    I think the problem could be pretty easily solved my adding a drive side spacer. I.e. add a 1-2 mm spacer which would push the granny away from the BB. The chain would still be able to fall in, but at least it would be easy to get out.

    Dave

  3. #3
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    Reputation: jokermtb's Avatar
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    I had a 1999 burner that never, ever chainsucked. Complete xt drivetrain, square taper bb/cranks, 34 rear cogs, long cage xt rear mech and top pull xt front mech. Bulletproof.

    I now have a new 2004 spot [polished rear end - not the fancy pants painted rear] w/ the new xt rear/front derailleurs, 34 tooth cassette. The only thing different I tried was to put a race face northshore bb/crank combo w/ rings on the front. When going from middle to granny, I sometimes hear that scraping noise, and look down to see my chain hanging up and heading for the dreaded chain suck zone. It has happened on occasion where it got jammed. I am wondering if it is the RF rings that are helping to cause this.....I just have to think before I shift the chainrings in front, and be prepared to take action if I sense my chain going cranko...

  4. #4
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    I've had chain suck problems too (2004 fully red medium 5 spot frame XT drive chain), and I thought it was perhaps bad set-up of the gears on my part.

    The problem seems to occur for me when suddenly shifting from the middle ring to the granny when going up rough-ish inclines. I can avoid it by just shifting a bit earlier and less suddenly, but I guess it's better not to have the risk of chain suck making riders shift down before they really want to.

  5. #5
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    I had chainsuck problems with '01 O2 and '00 XTR cranks. Crankset was new

    I've also read several entries with other people having chainsuck problems. If I remember correclty, they were mostly XCE's and shimano stuff.

  6. #6
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    I don't think it's really a "chain suck" issue.

    Chain suck has nothing to do w/ the frame unless it's misaligned or has a really weird chainline. What the original poster (and I) were describing is when the chain drops from the granny/middle and gets wedged between the granny and the rear-swingarm. On my xce there's JUST enough room when the suspension is slightly compressed to get the chain in there. Once it's in there it can sometimes be REALLY hard to get out.

    Luckily it only seems to happen when I'm going slowly down over some really rocky stuff, so I'm not cranking on my pedals.


    I switched from a 3 ring to a 2 ring/bashguard and a med-cage rear der. and it seems to be happening less (but still occasionally happens).

    Dave

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghostman
    I would like to know if anyone has had a problem with jumping from there top or med ring to there small ring and getting chain suck to your bottom brack area, I meet a guy on a trail with a 98 turner that has a constant problem and thinks its a design problem has also called turner and they say there is no problem "what do you think out there"?
    Your chain is dropping onto the BB when you shift from the middle ring to the granny. That's not chain suck. Cahin suck is when the chain does not drop off of the bottom of the chainrings and either gets jammed between chainrings or rolls up on itself on a single chain ring.

    Most bikes can exhibit chain drop, even if they're properly aligned. Front Derailler setup is critical. With proper setup, the chain rarely drops. I found that I can make the chain drop on most bikes simply by shifting front and rear simultaneously (front - middle to granny, rear shifting to biggest cog) while going over rough terrain.

  8. #8
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    Yeah, but the issue is clearance.

    I agree with your assessment. However there seems to be _JUST_ the right amount of space to get the chain really jammed in there. I'm going to get a spacer to move my BB over the next time I replace it.

    Dave

  9. #9
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    worn front derailleur

    Quote Originally Posted by WarrGuru
    Front Derailler setup is critical.
    Yes & play within the front derailleur! Once I got rid of bad chain suck after I replaced a worn front derailleur on my XCE.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by MightySchmoePong
    I agree with your assessment. However there seems to be _JUST_ the right amount of space to get the chain really jammed in there. I'm going to get a spacer to move my BB over the next time I replace it.

    Dave
    Yep. It is definitely a tight fit. I wonder if attaching a rubber bumper to the main pivot would stop the chain from getting between the pivot and the chainings. Might be worth a try.

  11. #11
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    Anyone tried anything like this chain retainer: http://www.bikepro.com/products/chai...nretainer.html

  12. #12
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    Reputation: jokermtb's Avatar
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    I used one of those plastic third eye chain watchers on a hardtail I had once - it worked great. I must try one of these again...they are light and really work properly.

  13. #13
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    Used the Third eye... and anti-chainsuck thing...

    Almost old school.

    Third eye was useless against chainsuck because it mounted on the seat tube. All it did was prevent the chain from dropping onto the BB shell if your front der. limit wasn't properly adjusted or if you threw your chain over rough terrain.

    The anti-chainsuck thing was an uncomplicated solution if you suffered from chronic chainsuck. I still have one somewhere but it only mounts on hardtails w/o elevated chainstays. Don't think you can bolt them onto any FS designs today, at least not any of the ones I've owned.

    Eventually, I learned how to fix my own ride, adjust chainlines, front ders., replace alum. granny rings with steel inner chainrings which are usu. thinner and don't develop burrs like alum rings did that catch your chain. Keep the chain clean, lubed, and carry heavier lube on wet rides.

    Nowadays, I only expect/experience chainsuck on really muddy rides.

  14. #14
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    Good job! No Shimano Rings allowed

    I have an XCE and I had terrible chainsuck with the 2003 XT Crankset. I hated the deep gouges in my lovely machined BB shell it was leaving.

    The solution was that I read a bunch of sites and didn't get too much help to my problem. Chain length was good and chain was new. Including this very indepth one

    http://www.fagan.co.za/Bikes/Csuck/

    I was also using a SRAM PC59 chain.

    The solution was a combination of things. Probably the number one was to change the 22T and the 32T to a steel Race Face 22T and an aluminium Race Face 32T.

    I also attributed some of it to the Connex 9xi stainless chain. I found the lateral stiffness to be far greater than that of the PC59. I did not try the PC99.

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