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  1. #1
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    5 Spot - Gear cable routing...

    Cut the Nokons off my 5er last night (never did get on with them) and will replace tonight with new (normal) cables. Now with the Nokons being so flexible I could run the rear mech cable entirely down the right hand side of the bike (as you sit on it) which was nice and clean, but I'll probably want to wrap the cable across to the left from the shifter for a smoother outer routing. Vice versa for the front of course.

    I've had a look at some old photos on here, in particular some close-ups that Bikezilla put up showing the rear mech cable running around the seat tube and back across to the right hand side (is this all making sense?).

    Basically I want to know what the forum's thoughts are on the best way to do this. Photos would help A LOT :^)

    Cheers.

  2. #2
    Baked Alaskan
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    hope this helps

    I've never had any shifting problems and my cables cross over the way you describe, rear runs down the left side and crosses behing the ST, front runs down the right and loops down behind the ST, I attached a pic that may or may not help, nothing closer and I'm at work so I can't get a better pic yet, like I said I hope it helps...

    chris
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    The red couch has moved from Alaska to Florida...

  3. #3
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK Chris
    I've never had any shifting problems and my cables cross over the way you describe, rear runs down the left side and crosses behing the ST, front runs down the right and loops down behind the ST, I attached a pic that may or may not help, nothing closer and I'm at work so I can't get a better pic yet, like I said I hope it helps...

    chris
    Thanks AK, that's what I wanted to see. The other question is whether to run through the bracing bridge gusset thingie or over it like you have.

    I'm about to go out and do the deed so I'm sure one or the other will seem best when it comes to fitting.

    Cheers.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK Chris
    I've never had any shifting problems and my cables cross over the way you describe, rear runs down the left side and crosses behing the ST, front runs down the right and loops down behind the ST, I attached a pic that may or may not help, nothing closer and I'm at work so I can't get a better pic yet, like I said I hope it helps...

    chris
    ... forgot to ask; have you had a chance to get out on those Mavericks yet? The next big upgrade I reckon... lots of fork options coming up this year.

  5. #5
    Baked Alaskan
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    I run the cables outside of the brace, some run them through it, I don't think it matters. I kept them on the outside because I didn't want any kinks when the suspension compresses. It scuffs the paint, but I'm not real worried about that. You can put some of that tape crap on it if you want to protect it I guess.

    The real trails aren't open yet, won't be for at least a few more weeks so I haven't been able to put the Mav through the paces. Hitting curbs and whatnot, I like it so far. We got a ton of snow this winter and spring isn't cooperating much yet. Supposed to hit the upper 50's this weekend so hopefully that'll get rid of the rest of the snow and things can harden up. Too much info.
    The red couch has moved from Alaska to Florida...

  6. #6
    Toby Wong?
    Reputation: Tappoix's Avatar
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    do a search, DGC ran a picture of his bike, which he referred to as the preferred way to route cables (around the gusset). he also did my bike, and everything goes around the gusset too.

  7. #7
    Just Grin and HUCK it...
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    My cables run...

    Quote Originally Posted by Deano
    Thanks AK, that's what I wanted to see. The other question is whether to run through the bracing bridge gusset thingie or over it like you have.

    I'm about to go out and do the deed so I'm sure one or the other will seem best when it comes to fitting.

    Cheers.
    ... through the seat support gusset, as does my hydro disc brake line. I've had no problems whatsoever with any wear & tear or kinks. Running them through the gusset keeps 'em all together nice and tight. No worries about scratching the paint. It probably also helps keep everything workable if you take in a nice crash.
    MCM# 2007.1

  8. #8
    Lay off the Levers
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deano

    ...Basically I want to know what the forum's thoughts are on the best way to do this. Photos would help A LOT :^)

    Cheers.
    I have since changed it somewhat and ran the rear mech around drive side of the seat tube. It seems more sensible to me. I've also added some plastic protectors on the edges of the gusset and the left and right face of the seat tube. Cheers!

    Here's the [size=2]original [/size]shot you were talking about...



    Here's a picture of someone else's bike run the way I have mine now.
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  9. #9
    No, that's not phonetic
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    Mine looks like BZ's except that my rear mech cable runs down the left side of the tt, the front mech down the right, and then they cross inside the seat tube brace. I like running the cables around the far sides of the head tube when they leave the controls so that they don't saw through the heat tube.

    BZ- why on earth is your Spot so spotless?
    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

  10. #10
    Lay off the Levers
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    Quote Originally Posted by tscheezy
    Mine looks like BZ's except that my rear mech cable runs down the left side of the tt, the front mech down the right, and then they cross inside the seat tube brace. I like running the cables around the far sides of the head tube when they leave the controls so that they don't saw through the heat tube.

    BZ- why on earth is your Spot so spotless?
    You got me, it's an old shot. You should see the scratches I have now that I ride with leg armor.

    As for the routing, good point.
    I just noticed that the 2nd picture (of Kbell's old ride) has the R-mech approaching from the drive side. Mine approaches from the left as you describe and crosses underneath the ST brace. this and a little clear plastic paint protectors keep my HT in good shape.
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

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