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  1. #1
    Yes, that's fonetic
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    40 bumpers on a Highline

    A nitpickey friend asked why I had the bumpers so low. I'd figured the strongest spot on the head tube is where the gusset is welded on at the bottom, and at it's lowest the bumper hits there perfectly. Any head tubes ever been dented and where IS the best bumper location?
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  2. #2
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    Frame bumpers? Do you use the chaindisc behind the cassette, too?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by glitz
    Frame bumpers? Do you use the chaindisc behind the cassette, too?
    Are you kidding? Have you ever even seen a dual crown fork? Hey look, you have a run in your lycra.

    Sorry phuck, no answer for you but I didn't want to let this one slide by.
    Last edited by DireWolf; 04-11-2010 at 04:19 AM.

  4. #4
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    Of course I've seen one. I had a DC RS SID back in the day. Best DC fork I've ever used.

  5. #5
    Yes, that's fonetic
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    Quote Originally Posted by glitz
    Frame bumpers? Do you use the chaindisc behind the cassette, too?
    Uh, do you have a dual crown fork w/o them? I guess you ss'ers never crash, huh?

  6. #6
    Flacko
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    Quote Originally Posted by glitz
    I had a DC RS SID back in the day. Best DC fork I've ever used.

    ^^^ugh, thanks for proving their point!

  7. #7
    Just roll it......
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    The best bumper location is where the bumpers hit before the stanchions contact the frame and still give you the best turning radius.

    I'm glad I could help.
    EB

  8. #8
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    Yeah, gotta go with Ebx...Place them where ever the contact comes first and has the most surface area. I never ran a DC on the HL, but had a 888 and a Boxxer for my Demo and Fly and it was all about the contact points and optimum turning radius.
    Last edited by MonkeyBidnezz; 04-12-2010 at 01:20 AM.

  9. #9
    Yes, that's fonetic
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebxtreme
    The best bumper location is where the bumpers hit before the stanchions contact the frame and still give you the best turning radius.

    I'm glad I could help.
    EB
    Thanks for that insight to your amazing grasp of the obvious.
    I was actually expecting a detailed discussion of the structural integrity of the head tube and optimal pressure points. Guess I shoulda saved that one for mid winter eh?

  10. #10
    MTK
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    You may think this is stupid,

    Quote Originally Posted by whodaphuck
    A nitpickey friend asked why I had the bumpers so low. I'd figured the strongest spot on the head tube is where the gusset is welded on at the bottom, and at it's lowest the bumper hits there perfectly. Any head tubes ever been dented and where IS the best bumper location?


    but you could run Two of them on each side. My reason being, the hard'er the impact,
    the more protection you have. I do that now after denting my bike. Peace.

    MTK

  11. #11
    Yes, that's fonetic
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTK
    but you could run Two of them on each side. My reason being, the hard'er the impact,
    the more protection you have. I do that now after denting my bike. Peace.

    MTK
    See Glitz, not everyone is a dipshyt like you.....

  12. #12
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    What do you mean?

  13. #13
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    I have a medium Highline, Fox 40 and a Cane Creek XX reducer headset. I could not find any placement for the bumpers, where the lower crown would not hit the frame, when putting a little force into the handlebars (simulating a crash).

    I ended up gluing up a rubber pad from 4-5 layers of inner tube and placing behind the bumper to make it taller, to avoid contact between the lower crown and frame.
    __o
    _-\<,
    (_)/(_)____ Sigmund | Norway

  14. #14
    Yes, that's fonetic
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    Quote Originally Posted by sigmund
    I have a medium Highline, Fox 40 and a Cane Creek XX reducer headset. I could not find any placement for the bumpers, where the lower crown would not hit the frame, when putting a little force into the handlebars (simulating a crash).

    I ended up gluing up a rubber pad from 4-5 layers of inner tube and placing behind the bumper to make it taller, to avoid contact between the lower crown and frame.
    Hmmm. I'm thinking about going to a 0 stack to drop the front a little...I'll have to do something like that if the L frame has the same issue.

  15. #15
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    I remember there was a thread over on RM covering the clearance. Another good option I've seen peeps use are the 3M rubber door stops. They stick right on to the frame and provide extra protection in the event of the crowns swinging too wide. You could always get a Hopey too if you are that concerned.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by MonkeyBidnezz
    Another good option I've seen peeps use are the 3M rubber door stops.
    I've been thinking the exact same - Using one of the larger 3M bumpers. The 3M bumpers have a very good adhesive.

    __o
    _-\<,
    (_)/(_)____ Sigmund | Norway

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