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  1. #401
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    Hi

    I Just killed my rear axle on my 2011 DHR. Actually I wanted the remove the wheel but the allen wrench killed the "allen screw". The screw is now round and not hex anymore. I wonder what is the correct torque stetting for the axle and how do I remove the axle? Should I drill through the axle? But then the end at the hub side is still in the frame?

    Or do you recommend another bolt then the original one?

  2. #402
    Locs on Spokez
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    Get a straight 12mm axle instead of the tapered one
    Ground Steeze. @iggy_strbac

  3. #403
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    just bougt a new mud guard for my DHR
    it is plastic
    for only 5$
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2011 DHR set-ups-20120709_203515.jpg  

    2011 DHR set-ups-20120709_210137.jpg  


  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by saruti View Post
    just bougt a new mud guard for my DHR
    it is plastic
    for only 5$
    Where did you get that and what is it? I need to get rid of the ghetto tube back there and this looks big enough to actually stop the mud!

  5. #405
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    a guy I know is selling them
    they good for all sort of bikes and also as a front fender under the fork arc

    if you want I can ask him to sell you one (or 2 if you want also for the front)
    it's made of plastic.
    and its working great for mud.
    I run it all the time. it protects my shock from dirt

  6. #406
    It's carbon dontcha know.
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    My home made one looks similar to that and works great stopping the mud from reaching the shock.
    Rolling on 29", 650b, 8.3" and 23mm

  7. #407
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    try mucky nutz Bender Fender 2.1

  8. #408
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    Does it hit the seat tube when you bottom?
    Ground Steeze. @iggy_strbac

  9. #409
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    nick.
    my plastic fender looks a lot like the bender fender. but its longer and also can be connected to the fork.
    Iggz.
    the plastic fender is hiting the seat tube. but not nuch. and the fender is flex. so ther is no problem at all.

    it is really great.

    he say he will sell 2 for 8$....

    that sound good for me :-)

  10. #410
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    It may sound weird and I tried a lot of options like changing the hanger or the cassette or the cable housings. I stil cannot shift smoothly from the second largest to the largest sprocket. I have a sram red cassette 11-25 and X0 short cage rear derailleur. I actually never really use the largest sprocket but it is somehow frustrating not being able to fix my bike.

  11. #411
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    just get rid of the large one. and make your self a cassette of the only 5 or 6 sprockets you really use.

  12. #412
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    That sounds reasonable but I also want do know if I make something wrong. I have 2x2.5mm spacers on drive side and one on the other side. I am using saint 815 cranks and a chris king BB. Would it help to switch one spacer to have a straight chain line?

    I give up and don't care anymore. 9 gears are enought.
    Last edited by geosnow; 07-21-2012 at 09:31 AM.

  13. #413
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    just wondering what's the different between the 2011,2012 and the upcoming 2013 model on DHR?

    thanks

  14. #414
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    there is no change, maybe the RC4 shock newer...

  15. #415
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    really? it says "ver 5.0" on thier website, there should be earlier version of it

  16. #416
    Now with flavor!!
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    STRAVA: Enabling dorks everywhere to get trails shut down........ all for the sake of a race on the internet.

  17. #417
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    thanks for your help dude...

  18. #418
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    what adapter do I need, to run 8" rotor at the back. is it PM 6" to pm 7"?

  19. #419
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    Post Mount

    Quote Originally Posted by bapesta View Post
    what adapter do I need, to run 8" rotor at the back. is it PM 6" to pm 7"?
    post mount on the rear caliper mountas are 6" so in you want to run a 8" you need a 6" to 8" post mount adapter, front or rear it does not matter

  20. #420
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    Finally

    and to keep the thread going on, i finally managed to build my DHR here it is

    Here is my spec:
    Bike setup:
    * Frame Size & Color: M anodized green
    * Rear Shock: Fox RC4 with 350lb spring
    * Fork: Rockshox Boxxer R2C2
    * Brakes: 08' Avid Codes Calipers with Elixir R Levers
    * Shifter: x.7
    * Cranks: Orange Raceface Atlas, 165mm 2012
    * Chainguide: Straitline Silentguide
    * Rear Derailleur: SRAM X9 9spd
    * Pedals: Shitty Mongoose flats
    * Stem: Sunline DM
    * Handlebar: Orange Atlas 2012
    * Seatpost: Kore T-rail / I-beam
    * Saddle: SDG I-Beam fly
    * Bottom Bracket: Raceface Team DH
    * Chainring: Race Face Single Ring 34T
    * Cassette: SRAM PG 970 11-26
    * Headset: Cane Creek 40
    * Grips: ODI X-Trainer
    * Front Tire: Kenda Excavators 2.5 stick-e
    * Front Rim: Transition Rev 32
    * Front Hub: Formula from old build
    * Rear Tire: Kenda Excavators 2.5 stick-e
    * Rear Rim: Transition Rev 32
    * Rear Hub: Formula from old build

    *Rider Setup
    *Weight: 150lb
    *Height: 6'3"







    Last edited by downhiller900sl; 07-24-2012 at 09:19 PM.

  21. #421
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    green vs red looks good.

  22. #422
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    YO! I might be in line to get a 2012 DHR, only problem is that its a size medium. Im sportin like a solid 5'11 but still growing some and I was wondering if i can still get by on a medium or if its pretty much suicidal. coming off of a 12' large demo that has a pretty long toptube length, the medium size is the only thing stopping me from gettin this *****.

    help?
    jump for show,corner for dough

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by kev.1n View Post
    YO! I might be in line to get a 2012 DHR, only problem is that its a size medium. Im sportin like a solid 5'11 but still growing some and I was wondering if i can still get by on a medium or if its pretty much suicidal. coming off of a 12' large demo that has a pretty long toptube length, the medium size is the only thing stopping me from gettin this *****.

    help?
    Hey man, I am 5'll.5" and tried a medium and it felt tiny. The large even fits a bit on the smaller side as far as larges go and with the Large Demo being a Bit on the larger side I would say a medium would be too small for you.

    That may have been confusing so let me put it this way. I have tried a medium demo and a medium DHR and the Demo was rideable whereas the DHR felt way to small. If you like the Large Demo and if your still growing get the Large DHR

    I would be curious to hear your comparison on the Demo and the DHR. I have been on my DHR all season and love it. The only bike I would consider trading it for is the Demo since it is supposed to be more lively and most of my local trails are either slow tech or massive jumps.

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by climbingbubba View Post
    The only bike I would consider trading it for is the Demo since it is supposed to be more lively
    It's not.




    You're all good.
    STRAVA: Enabling dorks everywhere to get trails shut down........ all for the sake of a race on the internet.

  25. #425
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    yo just got an xl dhr and im having issues deciding which spring to use as I have a 400 and a 550 that turner sent and recommended.. . First off im 242 pounds without riding gear, so probably 250 or more with gear.... Ive been bouncing around on the 400 around the street and its real soft and im getting pretty narly sag. So in your guys' opinions should I run the 550 or the 400! Im thinking the 550 to start with any input would be dope

  26. #426
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    500 or 550.

  27. #427
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    ya ill try the 550 and see whats up

  28. #428
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    There had been too many rainy/muddy days lately so I have decided to work on another mud guard for my rear shock.




    Seems to mount pretty solid on the test fitting just clears everything nicely although it might be getting a little close to the tires. The guard itself extends all the way to the bottom of the rear triangle and presses itself against the bottom part of the triangle which keeps it mounted pretty stable and also blocks off all the mud coming in from that open section.

    I might have cut the guard a on inch or two too long though as it will touch the seat post on the last inch of compression but it won't hit the tire so I guess it should be ok. I have no idea how it would actually perform as I have yet to take it out to the trails but the fender material felt strong itself so I guess it should be stable enough. If it flaps around too much, I will just cut it a couple of inches shorter and it should be more stable.

  29. #429
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    Is an air shock really suitable on a DW link DHR? It has a linear leverage ratio in mid travel and a rising ratio in the end. An air shock could blow through mid travel and then ramp up so much that it is difficult to use full travel.
    A coil shock is much less progressive in the end of its travel and it may suit the progressive end ratio of the DHR better
    Last edited by Gurterno; 08-05-2012 at 07:46 AM.

  30. #430
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    it looks like he is not using the full travel but on the other hand he did not drop to heavy that day.

  31. #431
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    A well tuned air shock is more than suitable for a DHR.... in fact I PREFER my air shock to my coil on my DHR!!
    Ground Steeze. @iggy_strbac

  32. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iggz View Post
    A well tuned air shock is more than suitable for a DHR.... in fact I PREFER my air shock to my coil on my DHR!!
    Yep, quite likely. Often theory and real world is quite different. And my theory isn't rock solid either

  33. #433
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    It's a long story on why I am using an air shock on the bike.

    I used to ride a TR450 with an Elka rear shock. According to the Elka, the DHR shares the same tune as the TR450 so stupidly, when I made my switch to the DHR, I took the stock RC4 off and sold it, replacing it with the Elka without even trying it out.

    After a couple months of riding, my Elka stated to leak so I took it off for service and borrowed a RC4 for the time being and realized the RC4 performed MUCH better than the Elka. Once the Elka was repaired, I was determined to replace it but did not want to admit my mistake and go back to an RC4.

    At that time many friends of mine were using vivid air on their DH bikes and they really liked it. Those on the internet who managed to mod their DHR and get the vivid air to fit had pretty good results too. Personally, I do not want to mod the linkage on my DHR so the vivid air was not an option for me but that had grabbed my attention on the air shocks.

    Due to the local hype about air shocks, as the CCDB air was released and after noting that it would fit the DHR, I just placed my order without giving it a thought. Only after ordering I realized the air shock was released as an alternative to the CCDB coil for those who needed a progressive spring rate.

    Performance wise, I found it to be a significant improvement over the Elka that I had. However, the RC4 still felt a little better. Indeed due to the progressiveness on both the suspension design and shock, I am unable to use up the last inch of travel on my bike but I do not think it matters and I am sure I will be able to use that up once I hit some bigger stuff (the shock actually felt REALLY good on bigger hits).

    Anyway, I suck at tuning and am still messing with the settings on the CCDB air. Maybe it will be better in the future once I am able to set it right.

  34. #434
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    so, the elka doesn't suit the DHR? what was the problem, when you had the elka on?

  35. #435
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    Ccdb air

    Im a terrible lurker but thought i would chime in

    Im running a CCDB air on a New DHR I built in May. I would love to hear from others as to what settings they are running. I have been playing quite a bit with my settings, just got back from a 9 day trip to whistler ( summer gravity camp + few extra days of riding)

    I found as time went on i was running more and more HSC and it felt great!

    LSC 10 -12 clicks from full open
    LSR 12-14 clicks from full open

    HSC 1.5 turns from full open
    HSR 1 turn from full open

    but these settings are constantly changing to find that sweet spot, depending on terrain

    running 30-33% sag, weigh about 165-170 without riding gear

    so far i totally love this shock!

    would love to hear from others running the CCDB AIR

  36. #436
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    Quote Originally Posted by bapesta View Post
    so, the elka doesn't suit the DHR? what was the problem, when you had the elka on?
    I think its mainly due to my riding style and the type of trail that ride.

    If you can find a wide, straight DH section that allows you to reach ludicrous speeds, the shock actually feels amazing as your bike just floats through the gnar.

    Sadly, the local trails here consists mostly of single tracks and the rear end skips around too much at medium speeds for me to navigate through some of those tighter sections without putting up a fight to keep the bike in control.

    Also I think the shock also needs more low speed mid/end stroke compression support as when I speed through certain areas where it goes from a downhill to an uphill, the shock would simply bottom out on the transition from the G force.

  37. #437
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    Quote Originally Posted by turborobo View Post
    Im a terrible lurker but thought i would chime in

    Im running a CCDB air on a New DHR I built in May. I would love to hear from others as to what settings they are running. I have been playing quite a bit with my settings, just got back from a 9 day trip to whistler ( summer gravity camp + few extra days of riding)

    I found as time went on i was running more and more HSC and it felt great!

    LSC 10 -12 clicks from full open
    LSR 12-14 clicks from full open

    HSC 1.5 turns from full open
    HSR 1 turn from full open

    but these settings are constantly changing to find that sweet spot, depending on terrain

    running 30-33% sag, weigh about 165-170 without riding gear

    so far i totally love this shock!

    would love to hear from others running the CCDB AIR
    I am 170-173 without riding gear and I found that the less sag I run on the CCDB air the better it felt. I think I am running at around 125psi 30% sag right now.

    My current settings was setup based on the recommended settings from DW for the DB Coil which were as follows (from full open):

    LSC 12-14
    HSC1.5
    LSR 15-18
    HSR 2.25

    Since then I think I have begin opening up the LSC, HSC and HSC but I don't quite remember the exact settings. Your advice on the HSC sounds interesting and I might try it out when I get back. However, I am out of town right now and will not be home for another week or two so I won't be able to check out the settings on the bike (OR RIDE!!!) for awhile.

  38. #438
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    Within the next month, I'll be joining your ranks! I will be pairing my soon to have DHR with a 2012 Boxxer WC. In the meantime, I need to send my Formula the Ones in for servicing (change master cylinders) and wanted to consider hose length and have them change that too if necessary.

    Can someone please do me a favor and measure the front and rear brake hose lenth with enough play in it? It would be a big help as I only want to send these in one time. Thanks!

  39. #439
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    ^ What size frame you looking for? A small DHR will have different hose lengths from an XL DHR.
    konahonzo

  40. #440
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    Sorry - Should have clarified. - Medium Frame.


    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    ^ What size frame you looking for? A small DHR will have different hose lengths from an XL DHR.

  41. #441
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    So I went ahead and invested in some Mucky Nutz fenders. Even though its designed for the front, it works on the rear really well.







    Yes, the material is just like that of a cheap 3-ring binder. And it attaches via velcro. Stays on good. The pic is with a Maxxis 2.7 so plenty of clearance...if you run Maxxis
    Biker? I don't even know her.

  42. #442
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    Hey,
    I'm building up a large dw dhr, and I'm having a bit of a problem deciding what spring to get for the RC4. I'm 145lbs without gear (~155 with),
    Extrapolation from the two numbers turner provides (350 spring for a 170lb rider, 400 for a 200lb rider) in the FAQ, gets me a 300 or 325 spring ... so, any suggestions which way should I go, 300 or 350?

    Thanks!

  43. #443
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    I had the same issue. I weigh around 150 and emailed Turner to ask. They got back to me with the 350lb spring suggestion. Been running it ever since and am stoked on this weight.

  44. #444
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    350 or more. I ran my brothers dw dhr with a 300 (rc4) and it felt like **** no matter what i did - really horribly undersprung wallowy putain merde kinda ****. Swapped to a ccdb with a 400 spring and it is a totally different bike - waaay better. I'm curious to try a 350 spring, but haven't gotten around to it yet. But at your weight anything less than 350 will feel like crap.

    funny how different the dhr is from my makulu though. Both bikes have similar travel and not too different geo after sag, yet the feel of em is the polar opposite - thus far anyway. Both are amazing bikes, just different. Personally i prefer the makulu, but i have a huge Bos bias

  45. #445
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    Hello,
    I just purchased a a 2012 DHR that came with a 400lbs spring. I weight 220lbs (100kg), would I be better off with a 450 or 500lbs spring?
    Thank you in advance,
    Eric

  46. #446
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    2011 DHR set-ups-img_1738-copy.jpg
    Hi. I just bought a 2010 Turner DHR off my buddy. It's an awesome bike and a huge upgrade from my 99 Spec FSR DH (obviously!)
    He told me it was a 2010 DHR. Looking at online pix it looks like a 08. Any ideas?
    Thanks Duck

  47. #447
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    Since the first DW-Link DHR was the 2009 modell - I'd say thats 2008 or older ...

  48. #448
    Slap happy crappiness
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    It's a 2008, same year as the Fox 40 you have.
    I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.

  49. #449
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    Cool, thanx guys.

  50. #450
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    me and my frien Dan riding ours turners DHR's

    I Love it Video - Pinkbike

    and here is my DHR

    Yossi_Sarusi's Turner - Yossi_Sarusi's Bike Check - Vital MTB

    what do you think?

  51. #451
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    Here is my spec:
    Bike setup:
    * Frame Size & Color: L Matt Black
    * Rear Shock: CCDB with 500lb spring
    * Fork: Fox 40
    * Brakes: Hope M4, Shimano floating rotors
    * Shifter: X9
    * Cranks: Shimano Saint
    * Chainguide: C-Sixx 175
    * Rear Derailleur: SRAM X9 9spd
    * Pedals: Shimano DX or Straitline depending on mood
    * Stem: Sunline DM
    * Handlebar: Deity Black Label. (The Renthal in my pics is now on my AM Bike)
    * Seatpost: Nukeproof
    * Saddle: Syncros Skinny roadie seat
    * Bottom Bracket: Shimano Saint
    * Chainring: Hope
    * Cassette: SRAM PG 970 11-26
    * Headset: Cane Creek 40
    * Grips: ODI Yeti
    * Front Tire: Maxxis Minnion 2.5 Super Tacky
    * Front Rim: ZTR Flow
    * Front Hub: Hope Pro 2
    * Rear Tire: Maxxis Minnion 2.5 Super Tacky
    * Rear Rim: ZTR Flow
    * Rear Hub: Hope Pro 2

  52. #452
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    2011 DHR set-ups-dscf0658.jpg2011 DHR set-ups-dscf0660.jpg2011 DHR set-ups-dscf0662.jpg2011 DHR set-ups-dscf0664.jpg

  53. #453
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    2011 DHR set-ups

    Quote Originally Posted by saruti View Post
    me and my frien Dan riding ours turners DHR's

    I Love it Video - Pinkbike

    and here is my DHR

    Yossi_Sarusi's Turner - Yossi_Sarusi's Bike Check - Vital MTB

    what do you think?
    Are you getting a lot of rubbing with that seat?

  54. #454
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    @trap121
    the seat doesnt rub the rear tire at all.

  55. #455
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    My DHR

    Bike setup:
    * Frame Size & Color: Medium DHR/ White
    * Rear Shock:RC4
    * Fork: Dorado Pro
    * Brakes: Avid Elixir
    * Shifter: Sram XO
    * Cranks: Saints
    * Chainguide: E13 SRS
    * Rear Derailleur: sram super shorty
    * Pedals: straightline
    * Stem: chromag director
    * Handlebar: chromag osx
    * Seatpost: thomson elite
    * Saddle: chromag moon dt
    * Bottom Bracket: shimano
    * Chainring: E13 34
    * Cassette: shimano xt
    * Headset: CK
    * Grips: ODI Rogue
    * Front Tire: Maxxis Minion DHF 3C DH 2.5
    * Front Rim: 823
    * Front Hub: I9's
    * Rear Tire: Maxxis Highroller 2 Dh 2.4
    * Rear Rim: 823
    * Rear Hub: I9's

    * Future changes: maybe change the brakes.

    *Rider Setup
    *Weight:165
    *Height:5' 9"

    2011 DHR set-ups-img_2813.jpg2011 DHR set-ups-img_2812.jpg2011 DHR set-ups-img_2814.jpg2011 DHR set-ups-img_2819.jpg

  56. #456
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    Here is my spec:
    Bike setup:
    * Frame Size & Color: L Raw
    * Rear Shock: Fox RC4 450 Ti spring
    * Fork: Boxxer R2C2 with thrust bearings
    * Brakes: Formula RO (using K24 on front while waiting for a piece for my front RO)
    * Shifter: X9
    * Cranks: Race Face Sixc
    * Chainguide: MRP G2SL
    * Rear Derailleur: SRAM XO Short Cage 9spd
    * Pedals: Shimano Clipless or Point1 Podiums (I swing both ways)
    * Stem: Easton 35
    * Handlebar: Easton 35 Carbon 800mm
    * Seatpost: Thomson Elite
    * Saddle: Sella Italia XO
    * Bottom Bracket: Race Face
    * Chainring: Race Face 36 tooth
    * Chain: Sram 991 Cross Step
    * Cassette: Shimano (I think) 11-21
    * Headset: Cane Creek 110
    * Grips: Oury (thick & comfy)
    * Front Tire: Maxxis Minnion DHR II
    * Front Rim: ZTR Flow EX
    * Front Hub: Hope Pro 2 Evo
    * Rear Tire: Maxxis High Roller II
    * Rear Rim: ZTR Flow EX
    * Rear Hub: Hope Pro 2 Evo
    * Spokes: Sapin Race Black with black nipples

    Rider weight: 220lbs
    Bike Weight: 38 even, will get a little lighter when I set it up tubeless.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2011 DHR set-ups-photo-1.jpg  

    2011 DHR set-ups-photo-2.jpg  

    2011 DHR set-ups-photo-3.jpg  

    2011 DHR set-ups-photo-4.jpg  

    2011 DHR set-ups-photo-5.jpg  

    Last edited by rugbyred; 05-03-2013 at 06:31 PM.

  57. #457
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    Sorry about making you have to turn your screen sideways.

    Eric

  58. #458
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    Finally, my XC rig is complete:

    * Frame Size & Color: size L in Lime green
    * Rear Shock: Fox RC4, 350 lb spring, with Burgtec offset hardware
    * Fork: 2012 Marzocchi 888 RC3 EVO TI
    * Brakes: formula the one 203mm with Hayes front rotor
    * Shifter: SRAM XO
    * Cranks: SRAM X0 DH 165mm
    * Chainguide: E13 LG1+
    * Rear Derailleur: Sram X0
    * Pedals: Outland Slimline
    * Stem: Blackspire DAS STEM
    * Handlebar: Easton Haven Carbon 710mm
    * Seatpost: SGG micro carbon
    * Saddle: SDG I-FLY
    * Bottom Bracket: GXP83
    * Chainring: SRAM/Rental
    * Cassette: Dura Ace 7700 11-25
    * Headset: Cane Creek 110
    * Grips: Factory Racing
    * Front Tire: kenda nevegal 2.35
    * Wheelset : Stans ZTR FLOW with HOPE2 PRO2EVO
    * Rear Tire: kenda nevegal 2.35

    * Future changes: Ti spring or Air Shock, lighter pedals (-100g), lighter stem (-50g), Kenda Small Block Eight as rear tyre

    *Rider Setup
    *Weight me 73 kg and Dhr with new crankarms should be around 15,7-8 kg
    *Height: 180 cm

    2011 DHR set-ups-turner_2013-2.jpg2011 DHR set-ups-turner_2013-4.jpg2011 DHR set-ups-turner_2013-5.jpg2011 DHR set-ups-turner_2013-9.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2011 DHR set-ups-turner_2013-3.jpg  


  59. #459
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    Offset hardware to make it lower and slacker?

  60. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by airwreck View Post
    Offset hardware to make it lower and slacker?
    Or higher and stepper, if you want it this way, like pictured. It's a great mod, that makes this fantastic bike more versatile. Only downside is lack of the frame clearance, if you want to go slacker/lower option. But still, with the rear bushing only, you should get around 62.5 degree HA and half of an inch lower BB.

  61. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by arafarat View Post
    .. It's a crap mod...
    fixed that for you.

    Why anyone would even consider using off set bushings on a dw frame is just beyond me. The same exact results can be achived via an angleset (higher/lower and/or slacker (just lower isn't an option i guess)) - especially given the headtubes shortness - without messing with the kinematics of the frame. It might not be a biggie giving only slight averse effects to the suspension, but the suspension is optimized to function with the shock where it is at. It's not like the frame is especially high to begin with - it is one of the lowest frames out there, but if you are hell bent on getting it lower, sure you could do it.

    I guess it would be interesting to hear from somebody in the know what if any ill effects to the kinematics the offset does provide, or if i am just ranting away for no good reason. The lower bb-thing doesn't really need explaining, though why one would want one that is lower might.

    oh, and yes, very nice bike
    Last edited by klinkekule; 05-05-2013 at 01:07 PM.

  62. #462
    GAME ON!
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    why would it affect anything? it moves the shock down a few mm, that's it.
    RIP Adam Yauch

    "M.C. for what I AM and do, the A is for Adam and the lyrics; true"

  63. #463
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    please correct me if i am wrong here, but to have any effect the off set would have to be applied horizontally. If the off set would be applied vertically it wouldn't really change anything in the desired direction. Thus, with the off set bushing the effect on the geometry would be similar to running the frame with more sag, while keeping the tune, actual sag and shock settings equal. The starting point of the shock would not be were the link is designed to activate the shock, but further on along the stroke. Thus, the effect on the kinematics would be that the inital part of the stroke, the mm resulted by the off set, would be added to the end of the stroke if the rear wheel doesn't hit the frame. As such the sweet spot of the frame should be reached with running the shock with less sag as compared to the inital set up. Since the shock has the same amount of sag that it used to have (or would it need to run a stiffer spring?) one ends up with a lower bb at the expense of optimized kinematics. It might be that the off set in question falls within the natural sweet spot range of the sag, but it seems intuitive that it would fall outside of it. The argument is based on the latter assumption.

    I could see the trade being worth it if you were talking about a 14.5+ inch bb or if the frames leverage curve was totally linear or some such, but the DHR is quite low at 13.5 and has anything but a straight line of leverage rate. Since the frame has a very short head tube and as a slackened head angle could be achived with a headset - something that could also result in a lower bb if that was what one wished for - i just cannot see why one would mess with the kinematics of the frame, kinematics painstakingly calculated by the daves, when going about making it slacker or slacker and lower.

    i guess calling the mod crap was a bit over the top, but i just don't see why one would follow that route to accomplish a lower and slacker bike. I've ridden the DHR with a 300 spring instead of the 350 that i need, hel the frame has a 400 and ccdb on it right now, and it felt absolutely horrible (not to say that the feel would be identical as it obviously wouldn't).

  64. #464
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    yeah, i was referencing my 5 spot which has a vertical shock.. same applies to horizontal, just different wording. in any case, if the kinematics are affected on my bike, i certainly can't tell. from turner's faq "The amount of sag effects BB height and handling with no loss of dw-link performance". how offset bushings would be any different than simply having more sag, i do not know.

    if dt or dw tells me any different, then i'll look into an angled headset, but as it stands, this was the cheaper option for me.
    RIP Adam Yauch

    "M.C. for what I AM and do, the A is for Adam and the lyrics; true"

  65. #465
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    2011 DHR set-ups

    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine View Post
    yeah, i was referencing my 5 spot which has a vertical shock.. same applies to horizontal, just different wording. in any case, if the kinematics are affected on my bike, i certainly can't tell. from turner's faq "The amount of sag effects BB height and handling with no loss of dw-link performance". how offset bushings would be any different than simply having more sag, i do not know.

    if dt or dw tells me any different, then i'll look into an angled headset, but as it stands, this was the cheaper option for me.
    Either way.....your bike looks sick!

  66. #466
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    Update

    Here is my spec: Some changes since my last post
    Bike setup:
    * Frame Size & Color: L Matt Black
    * Rear Shock: CCDB with 500lb spring
    * Fork: Fox 40 with ODI fork bumpers
    * Brakes: Hope V2 Braided Hoses, Hope V2 floating rotors
    * Shifter: X9
    * Cranks: Shimano Saint
    * Chainguide: C-Sixx 175
    * Rear Derailleur: SRAM X9 9spd
    * Pedals: Shimano DX or Straitline depending on mood
    * Stem: Sunline DM
    * Handlebar: Deity Black Label.
    * Seatpost: Nukeproof
    * Saddle: Syncros Skinny roadie seat
    * Bottom Bracket: Shimano Saint
    * Chainring: Hope
    * Cassette: SRAM PG 970 11-26
    * Headset: Cane Creek 40
    * Grips: ODI Rogue
    * Front Tire: Maxxis Minnion 2.5 Super Tacky
    * Front Rim: Mavic EX823
    * Front Hub: Superstar Tesla
    * Rear Tire: Maxxis Minnion 2.5 Super Tacky
    * Rear Rim: Mavic EX823
    * Rear Hub: Superstar Trizoid

    I've looked through all the bikes on this thread and I honestly think it's the nicest bike on here.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2011 DHR set-ups-photo7.jpg  

    2011 DHR set-ups-photo1.jpg  

    2011 DHR set-ups-photo2.jpg  

    2011 DHR set-ups-photo4.jpg  

    2011 DHR set-ups-photo5.jpg  

    2011 DHR set-ups-photo6.jpg  

    Last edited by Omega-man; 05-10-2013 at 01:28 AM.

  67. #467
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    2011 DHR set-ups

    Super obvious question for someone riding more than 1 season, but I was dusting off my DHR today checking the shock settings, psi, ect.

    I was looking at the settings in the book that came with it and it has HSC listed as -12 clicks out, and LSC as -10 clicks out.

    Does this mean -12 clicks back from as high as it will go or -12 clicks from fully closed?? The way it is worded confuses my simple mind.

  68. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by trap121 View Post
    Super obvious question for someone riding more than 1 season, but I was dusting off my DHR today checking the shock settings, psi, ect.

    I was looking at the settings in the book that came with it and it has HSC listed as -12 clicks out, and LSC as -10 clicks out.

    Does this mean -12 clicks back from as high as it will go or -12 clicks from fully closed?? The way it is worded confuses my simple mind.
    I think the way you worded your question is confusing. Start at full damping and back the adjuster out. Hope that makes sense. I think some companies like RS has you start from fully out and adj clicks in.

  69. #469
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    I read it as you need to turn the knobs all the way in (clockwise) and count the number of clicks as you turn the adjustments counter clockwise.

    Eric

  70. #470
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    2011 DHR set-ups

    Quote Originally Posted by rugbyred View Post
    I read it as you need to turn the knobs all the way in (clockwise) and count the number of clicks as you turn the adjustments counter clockwise.

    Eric
    Thanks, that clears it up.

  71. #471
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    Anyone here running the X-Fusion Vector HLR on their DHR? What are your settings? Thanks!

  72. #472
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    Last Update

    Here is my spec: Some changes since my last post
    Bike setup:
    * Frame Size & Color: L Matt Black
    * Rear Shock: CCDB with 500lb spring
    * Fork: Fox 40 with ODI fork bumpers
    * Brakes: Hope V2 Braided Hoses, Hope V2 floating rotors
    * Shifter: X9
    * Cranks: Shimano Saint
    * Chainguide: C-Sixx 175
    * Rear Derailleur: SRAM X9 9spd
    * Pedals: Shimano DX or Straitline depending on mood
    * Stem: Sunline DM
    * Handlebar: Deity Black Label.
    * Seatpost: Nukeproof
    * Saddle: Syncros Skinny roadie seat
    * Bottom Bracket: Shimano Saint
    * Chainring: Hope
    * Cassette: SRAM PG 970 11-26
    * Headset: Cane Creek 40
    * Grips: ODI Rogue
    * Front Tire: Maxxis Minnion 2.5 Super Tacky
    * Front Rim: ENVE (Ex Greg Minnaar)
    * Front Hub: Chris King
    * Rear Tire: Maxxis Minnion 2.5 Super Tacky
    * Rear Rim: ENVE (Ex Greg Minnaar)
    * Rear Hub: Chris King bzzzzzzzz

    2011 DHR set-ups-photo2.jpg2011 DHR set-ups-photo3.jpg2011 DHR set-ups-photo5.jpg2011 DHR set-ups-photo6.jpg2011 DHR set-ups-photo7.jpg2011 DHR set-ups-photo10.jpg

  73. #473
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    Anybody run/running the Fox RC2 on their DHR? Am considering the wildly good deal via the turner website, but to save money I'd rather stick with the RC2 and give up HSC and volume adjust. I can still minimize the air pressure in the reservoir...but everybody gravitates toward the ultra high-end builds.

  74. #474
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    How about the deal from Go Ride? The frame comes with the RC4.

    Eric

  75. #475
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    I saw that. It looks like the best deal going is from Fanatik bike, but Go-ride has the large I need....

    Is this the correct rear adapter that I would need?
    Shimano F203P/P Disc Brake Adaptor - Mike's Bikes - Road and Mountain Bike Shop, components, parts, accessories, service and repair

  76. #476
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    Ask Go Ride is they will match Fanatik. I would call Fanatik and see if they can somehow get you a large.
    Sorry, no clue what adapter you need.

    Eric

  77. #477
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    I have an ELKA STAGE 5 with 350# spring for sale.
    its brand new.
    I bought it for my sunday bike, and after a week or two I bought the DHR. so didn't use it at all.
    if you want PM me.
    I will sell it for 350$ plus shipping.
    I need the money so the price is good, I thinks....

  78. #478
    Yes, that's fonetic
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    Bump, new Whistler bike.
    Large raw, 40 Air, all Saint, all Thompson, Crampon Ultimate pedals, Minion DHF w/DH tubes f & r, 38.6lbs as is.
    Side note, is a 60a front tire too hard for Whistler? Would a Sticky be lots better?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2011 DHR set-ups-small-dhr1.gif  

    2011 DHR set-ups-small-dhr2.gif  


  79. #479
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    Quote Originally Posted by whodaphuck View Post
    Bump, new Whistler bike.
    Large raw, 40 Air, all Saint, all Thompson, Crampon Ultimate pedals, Minion DHF w/DH tubes f & r, 38.6lbs as is.
    Side note, is a 60a front tire too hard for Whistler? Would a Sticky be lots better?
    I think a 3C up front is always better, though the benefits are less in the dry. I was in Whistler all of last week, and it was bone dry, making for some dusty conditions. If it stays that way, you should be fine with a 60a front and rear.

  80. #480
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    Morzine 2013

    2011 DHR set-ups-img_0212-1024x768-.jpg
    2011 DHR set-ups-img_0276-1024x768-.jpg
    2011 DHR set-ups-img_0363-1024x768-.jpg

  81. #481
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    Bump, so how was Whistler?
    Quote Originally Posted by whodaphuck View Post
    Bump, new Whistler bike.
    Large raw, 40 Air, all Saint, all Thompson, Crampon Ultimate pedals, Minion DHF w/DH tubes f & r, 38.6lbs as is.
    Side note, is a 60a front tire too hard for Whistler? Would a Sticky be lots better?

  82. #482
    Yes, that's fonetic
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    As if you didn't know, the 60a tires were perfect for the moon dust of the first couple of days. Switched to a Super Tacky on the front after a night of rain and it was perfect...any more rain and I'd have sprung for another on the rear. As it was, I could easily see the difference in grip between the two when the rock faces like on Drop In Clinic and In Deep got a little damp.

  83. #483
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    I will be taking delivery of a new DHR frame in a couple weeks. I have all the parts for my build already. I was hoping you guys that have been on them for a while could give me advice/tips on what to look out for as far as my build/setup goes. I will be running a Dorado, Descendant cranks, and an MRP G3 chainguide. Everything else is pretty typical. I have some of that fancy tape to protect the chainstay and downtube. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

  84. #484
    It's carbon dontcha know.
    Reputation: 6thElement's Avatar
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    Just enjoy it once it's built.

    Just got back from a week of different resort riding in CO, had a blast.


    Rolling on 29", 650b, 8.3" and 23mm

  85. #485
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    2011 DHR set-ups

    Does anyone know the size of the bolts that clamp the brake and derailer cable to the down tube? Or better yet where to buy them? One of mine worked its way out over the weekend and has vanished...

  86. #486
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    Try a lock ring bolt from an ODI grip. Or otherwise take the one that's left to an engineering/auto spares shop. I doesn't look to be anything bespoke to me.

    On that I've done a DIY solution with cable ties mid way up the down tube to keep my cables from tapping the down tube. It was irritating the hell out of me in Morzine so I did a little home bodge job.

  87. #487
    If you think you can
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    Just got mine built up last night. I have a few bits still to finish up then she'll be ready to get dirty.
    Medium black and red
    Rocco wc 400lb spring
    Dorado pro
    Easton havoc wheelset
    Funn bars, stem and seat.
    Saint calipers and xt levers
    Zee derailuer
    Roughly 39 lbs on a bathroom scale
    I'm 5'11"
    175lbs




  88. #488
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    Family Portrait

    2011 DHR set-ups-photo-4.jpg

  89. #489
    Working on my Drops
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    wow. nice family. haha.

  90. #490
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    Finally got mine. All I can say is this bike is awesome!
    2011 DHR set-ups-photo-%25u0025252821%252529.jpg
    For anyone interested in fenders, I went with the Folgers AromaSeal and it works great.
    2011 DHR set-ups-photo-2-%25u002525282%252529.jpg2011 DHR set-ups-photo-5-%25u002525282%252529.jpg2011 DHR set-ups-photo-3-%25u002525282%252529.jpg2011 DHR set-ups-photo-4-%25u002525282%252529.jpg

  91. #491
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    Folgers Coffee - good for one thing, and it ain't drinking it.
    Supply Side Jesusnomisist

  92. #492
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    Nice to see more DHR's w Dorados.

  93. #493
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    2011 DHR set-ups-1082529_10200879779971371_363726767_o.jpg2011 DHR set-ups-1102487_10200879779771366_2118177532_o.jpg

    Turner DHR 2011 Raw
    Will just list the non standard, elka kit in boxxer WC, type 2 sram 10speed derailer, other than that pretty straight forwards

  94. #494
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    DHR action.
    2011 DHR set-ups-g0030705.jpg
    2011 DHR set-ups-photo.jpg
    Last edited by lanceuppercut; 10-31-2013 at 11:34 AM.

  95. #495
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    Another DHR action pick...
    2011 DHR set-ups-g0171481.jpg

  96. #496
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    this thread needs to be get some more replies, photos and whatnot.

    Took my brothers DHR out today to try it out with the new fork i gave him, my old idylle rare, and my god - this bike is just so much fun. Really spectacular in the rough stuff and when the going gets steep. Can't wait to test it back to back with my bike in the months to come. The weight savings from the sixc crank also helped i guess, don't know - looks nice anyway. Ran it with a 30mm stem to try it out, and i was expecting it to be too cramped, but it felt really nice. Didn't bring a longer stem though, so i guess i need to test that next time around. I just think Dave and Dave really nailed this design.

    will post some photos of it once i've taken some.

  97. #497
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    2011 DHR set-ups-dsc_1388.jpg

  98. #498
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    Can someone tell me what size spring I need for the DHR? I have a Fox RC4 shock on it. At work and have no way to check...

  99. #499
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    3 or a 3.25

  100. #500
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    Thanks.

    Here is my DHR. Picked it up used this past weekend. I think I got it for a super good price and it is in great shape. I'm so happy with it.

    I do need to do something about the lower crown on the fork, though... Can you buy the new crown from fox and put it on this one?




    I have taken off the front fender since I took this picture.

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