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  1. #251
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    Anybody on a small 2011 have any seat buzz issues?

    I have an 08 DHR & I had to slide the seat forward & raise it a bit higher than I wanted. I even cut an arc in the seat to lower it a bit.

  2. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by setan13 View Post
    dear all DHR lover,

    im planning to build a DH bike and DHR is one of my option...however, i hardly find anyone in my town who got DHR...

    therefore, kindly need your help to describe any advantage / disadvantage of DHR frame..

    im 68 kg 170 cm and ride quite agressive with my santa cruz bullit..

    thanks in advance for your help
    can anyone help me on this..???

    or i should make separated thread..??

    i really need your opinion ^^

    thanks in advance

  3. #253
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    this is a set-up thread, so try starting a new thread with some specific questions. the geometry + very low center of gravity + the DW link + Turner zerk-fitted pivots are some of the reasons this frame is different than a lot of other frames.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2011 DHR set-ups-turner-dw-dhr-1-compr.jpg  

    Last edited by frorider; 09-30-2011 at 06:11 PM.
    Originally posted by bucksaw87
    I still fail to see how mustaches, fixies, and PBR are ironic.

  4. #254
    Gold it's the new Pink!
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    Quote Originally Posted by setan13 View Post
    can anyone help me on this..???

    or i should make separated thread..??

    i really need your opinion ^^

    thanks in advance
    Starting a seperate thread would be best. However you can also check out this month's issue of Bike Magazine and last month's issue of Decline. In addition Mtb Action is currently testing the bike so keep your eyes out for an article. The article will answer all your questions and the rave reviews will seal the deal for you.

  5. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toddmac1 View Post
    Anybody on a small 2011 have any seat buzz issues?

    I have an 08 DHR & I had to slide the seat forward & raise it a bit higher than I wanted. I even cut an arc in the seat to lower it a bit.
    I have 11 DHR and had a lot of buzz, i raised the seat more than I would like but it got rid of it

  6. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by setan13 View Post
    can anyone help me on this..???

    or i should make separated thread..??

    i really need your opinion ^^

    thanks in advance
    Quote Originally Posted by Crimson View Post
    Starting a seperate thread would be best. However you can also check out this month's issue of Bike Magazine and last month's issue of Decline. In addition Mtb Action is currently testing the bike so keep your eyes out for an article. The article will answer all your questions and the rave reviews will seal the deal for you.
    Some links to the reviews mentioned:

    decline magazine September 2011

    Bike | See Inside Page 106 | Sep-11 | Zinio Digital Magazines & Books

  7. #257
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    Hello Frorider,
    my weight is around 88 too... i've got a 400 ti spring
    here are my settings for the CCDB

    Slow Compression 14 clicks
    slow rebound 16 clicks
    High compression, 0.5 turn from full open
    high rebound : 1.75 turn from full open

  8. #258
    Indonesian Biker
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    Quote Originally Posted by frorider View Post
    this is a set-up thread, so try starting a new thread with some specific questions. the geometry + very low center of gravity + the DW link + Turner zerk-fitted pivots are some of the reasons this frame is different than a lot of other frames.
    Quote Originally Posted by Crimson View Post
    Starting a seperate thread would be best. However you can also check out this month's issue of Bike Magazine and last month's issue of Decline. In addition Mtb Action is currently testing the bike so keep your eyes out for an article. The article will answer all your questions and the rave reviews will seal the deal for you.
    Quote Originally Posted by Marshall Willanholly View Post
    thanks so much guys...and i will start the new thread

  9. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by trap121 View Post
    I have 11 DHR and had a lot of buzz, i raised the seat more than I would like but it got rid of it
    Instead of raising your seat more than you would like you can run a bmx seat. I ran a S&M thin seat on my small '08 and it got rid of the seat buzz and let me keep my seat height where i wanted it, it's about 3/4" shorter than the WTB on my trail bike.

    This is the seat on my '12 DHR.





    nothing witty here...

  10. #260
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    2w4s, did you go with a medium or small?

  11. #261
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    Hi,

    Here is my setup

    Bike setup:
    * Frame Size & Color: Small 2011, Black ano
    * Rear Shock: CCDB, Ti 350
    * Fork: 888 RC3 LTD for Commencal with Ti Spring
    * Brakes: Magura MT6 203, 180
    * Shifter: XX
    * Cranks: Saint 165
    * Chainguide: MRP SL mini
    * Rear Derailleur: XX Medium
    * Pedals: Twenty6 old
    * Stem: Raceface Atlas Ti
    * Handlebar: Easton Carbon
    * Seatpost: Thomson Masterpiece
    * Saddle: WTB Devo Ti
    * Bottom Bracket: CK orange ceramic
    * Chainring: Raceface 36T
    * Cassette: SRAM Red 11-26
    * Headset: CK Inset
    * Grips: Odi Ruffian
    * Front Tire: Minion 2.5 3C EXO 1-Ply, Latex Tubes
    * Front Rim: ZTR Flow, DT Swiss Supercomp
    * Front Hub: CK, silver
    * Rear Tire: Minion 2.5 EXO 1-Ply, Latex Tubes
    * Rear Rim: ZTR Flow, DT Swiss Supercomp
    * Rear Hub: CK, silver

    * Future changes: Mango CK with ENVE AM and DT Aere. I may change for the X0 DH derailleur as well.

    *Rider Setup:
    LSC = 8 clicks in
    LSR = 10 clicks in
    HSC = 1.0 turns in, no big drops yet
    HSR = 2.0 turns in

    *Weight: 83kg or 183lbs
    *Height: 1.69m

    Last edited by geosnow; 10-28-2011 at 03:05 PM.

  12. #262
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    ... and if we just ...

    Quote Originally Posted by Marshall Willanholly View Post
    The funny thing is that more or less all Euro DH Bike producer will have a 63 angle on their bikes!

  13. #263
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    Does anybody now if any rear fender for the DHR will ever come to production from Turner?

  14. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by geosnow View Post
    The funny thing is that more or less all Euro DH Bike producer will have a 63 angle on their bikes!

  15. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by airwreck View Post
    2w4s, did you go with a medium or small?
    airwreck i went with a medium. compared to my '08 small the cockpit is very similar, bar and seat height are identical but the DW is about 3/4" longer in front which is want i wanted. I only notice the extra length when seated, when i'm in riding position the bike feels nearly identical to the single pivot. I will have a more in-depth review after next weekend's 3 day trip to N* but after 2 quick laps on a local trail i have to say that the DW is a better all-round bike than the older version.
    Last edited by 2w4s; 10-02-2011 at 08:33 PM.
    nothing witty here...

  16. #266
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    [QUOTE=2w4s;8501837]Instead of raising your seat more than you would like you can run a bmx seat. I ran a S&M thin seat on my small '08 and it got rid of the seat buzz and let me keep my seat height where i wanted it, it's about 3/4" shorter than the WTB on my trail bike.

    I have the same seat, I had to push it forward on the rails & notch the back & it's still a bit high. While it's ok most of the time I would prefer the seat a bit lower, I have a long torso & short legs.

    I think I read somewhere this issue was addressed on the new DHR so the seat can be lowered a bit but I canít find it so I thought I'd ask around.

    Anyhow I ordered a SM 2011 fro Go-Ride so I will get back on topic & post pics & specs when it's finished.

  17. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benniturner View Post
    Hello Frorider,
    my weight is around 88 too... i've got a 400 ti spring
    here are my settings for the CCDB

    Slow Compression 14 clicks
    slow rebound 16 clicks
    High compression, 0.5 turn from full open
    high rebound : 1.75 turn from full open
    Played around a lot with the CCDB settings and settled on:
    LSC = 16 clicks in
    LSR = 16 clicks in
    HSC = 1.0 turns in
    HSR = 1.5 turns in

    Like other DW bikes I've ridden, the DHR benefits from having relatively little HSC and LSC damping, but I found that going too low gave pedal strikes in unwarranted situations; OTOH, going too high made the rear end feel spiky (duh).

    Also found that a 15 mm spacer under crown (with Answer direct mount stem, which has no drop and is similar to many DM stems), with a ZS headset, gave a nice compromise between keeping the bars low enough for the turns, but (just) high enough to feel right coming into jumps etc.
    Originally posted by bucksaw87
    I still fail to see how mustaches, fixies, and PBR are ironic.

  18. #268
    It's carbon dontcha know.
    Reputation: 6thElement's Avatar
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    Bike setup:
    * Frame Size & Color: XL RAAAAAAAAAAAAAAWWWWW
    * Rear Shock: DHX RC4 400lb
    * Fork: Marzocchi 888 RC3 Ti EVO
    * Brakes: Hope Tech V2 203f+r
    * Shifter: X.9
    * Cranks: Saint 170
    * Chainguide: Straitline Silentguide
    * Rear Derailleur: X.9 short
    * Pedals: Wellgo MG-1
    * Stem: Marzocchi
    * Handlebar: Easton Havoc 750
    * Seatpost: Thomson Elite
    * Saddle: random
    * Bottom Bracket: Saint
    * Chainring: Saint 36T
    * Cassette: Saint 11-28T
    * Headset: Crankcreek 40
    * Grips: Oury
    * Front Tire: DHF UST
    * Front Wheel: Deemax
    * Rear Wheel: Deemax
    * Rear Tire: DHR UST

    * Future changes:
    Need to trim the seatpost slightly by about an inch, can't quite insert it as low as I want as the welding at the bottom opening stops the post extending through. Pedals might change to Spank Spikes


    *Rider Setup
    *Weight: 185 rtr
    *Height: 6'2"





    Shame it's got to act as a coat rack until next season due to rotator cuff injury, can't wait to enjoy it though.

    Last edited by 6thElement; 10-28-2011 at 02:05 PM.
    Rolling on 29", 650b, 8.3" and 23mm

  19. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by frorider View Post
    this is a set-up thread, so try starting a new thread with some specific questions. the geometry + very low center of gravity + the DW link + Turner zerk-fitted pivots are some of the reasons this frame is different than a lot of other frames.
    What bars are those?

  20. #270
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    Hi pround owners of the DHR,

    I was hoping I could join your ranks after buying a brand new frame off someone at pinkbike, and it was like Christmas came early when I pulled it out of the box after it just got delivered. The frame was truly beautiful, a raw, cnc-ed and wielded piece of art.

    But after dropping it off at my LBS to have it built up, the mechanic got back to me and said when the shock was removed, the rear-end wasn't free-moving at all - far from it. He said it might be a manufacturing defect, and the frame wasn't straight and true. I told him to try greasing the pivot bearings to see if it helped, because as far as I know the frame could have been sitting around for quite a bit, but it doesn't look good.

    Did anyone of you have the problem of a seizing rear-end when you received the frame? Mine is definitely a recalled and strengthened one as it has the extra gusset at the top-tube/head tube junction, but it still has the decals instead of being laser-etched, so it might be from an older batch.

    And now I'm worried sick, and it only makes matters worse when the mechanic/owner of shop tells you about the bad news with a glee - like it served me right for not buying a Mondraker or Transition frame from him instead.

    Sorry for the long post, but I hope you guys can give me some advice - would be best if someone from Turner can help out for a bit too?

    Thanks a lot.

    Kenneth

  21. #271
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    No worries at all with mine.
    It's normal to have decals on a raw DHR, laser etching only comes with the ano finish.
    Send an email to Greg and you'll know why you are not riding a Mondraker or Transition!
    Good luck.

  22. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by yt.kenneth View Post
    Hi pround owners of the DHR,

    I was hoping I could join your ranks after buying a brand new frame off someone at pinkbike, and it was like Christmas came early when I pulled it out of the box after it just got delivered. The frame was truly beautiful, a raw, cnc-ed and wielded piece of art.

    But after dropping it off at my LBS to have it built up, the mechanic got back to me and said when the shock was removed, the rear-end wasn't free-moving at all - far from it. He said it might be a manufacturing defect, and the frame wasn't straight and true. I told him to try greasing the pivot bearings to see if it helped, because as far as I know the frame could have been sitting around for quite a bit, but it doesn't look good.

    Did anyone of you have the problem of a seizing rear-end when you received the frame? Mine is definitely a recalled and strengthened one as it has the extra gusset at the top-tube/head tube junction, but it still has the decals instead of being laser-etched, so it might be from an older batch.

    And now I'm worried sick, and it only makes matters worse when the mechanic/owner of shop tells you about the bad news with a glee - like it served me right for not buying a Mondraker or Transition frame from him instead.

    Sorry for the long post, but I hope you guys can give me some advice - would be best if someone from Turner can help out for a bit too?

    Thanks a lot.

    Kenneth
    Have you verified this yourself?

    If the shop only wants to work on stuff they sell i would take it somewhere else, or even better start doing your own work.

    My DHR has a point beyond full extension where it feels like it binds but it is only when moved past what full shock extension would be. Lubing the bearings yourself is also supper easy.

  23. #273
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    Are you sure it was "NEW", any signs it was built up?

    Mine was ok out of the box, no problems cycling the swing arm W/O shock.

    Turner's warranty should cover a second owner, give them a call.

  24. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by yt.kenneth View Post
    Hi pround owners of the DHR,

    I was hoping I could join your ranks after buying a brand new frame off someone at pinkbike, and it was like Christmas came early when I pulled it out of the box after it just got delivered. The frame was truly beautiful, a raw, cnc-ed and wielded piece of art.

    But after dropping it off at my LBS to have it built up, the mechanic got back to me and said when the shock was removed, the rear-end wasn't free-moving at all - far from it. He said it might be a manufacturing defect, and the frame wasn't straight and true. I told him to try greasing the pivot bearings to see if it helped, because as far as I know the frame could have been sitting around for quite a bit, but it doesn't look good.

    Did anyone of you have the problem of a seizing rear-end when you received the frame? Mine is definitely a recalled and strengthened one as it has the extra gusset at the top-tube/head tube junction, but it still has the decals instead of being laser-etched, so it might be from an older batch.
    And now I'm worried sick, and it only makes matters worse when the mechanic/owner of shop tells you about the bad news with a glee - like it served me right for not buying a Mondraker or Transition frame from him instead.

    Sorry for the long post, but I hope you guys can give me some advice - would be best if someone from Turner can help out for a bit too?

    Thanks a lot.

    Kenneth

    Are the pivots properly torqued? See DHR overhaul guide here:
    http://www.turnerbikes.com/011/tech/...R_overhaul.pdf


    Did the box appear damaged during shipping?

    If your frame has that gusset between the top/ down tube, then it was not a part of the first batch which was recalled. Additionally, the gusset at the down/ head tube should be convex. This gusset on the recalled frames was concave. I had one of the first batch frames and it did crack... the warrantied replacement was not a modified frame, it was brand new.

    +1 for decals on raw frames, etched for ano frames

    Like the other guys said... just get in touch with the warranty department at Turner, they won't waste any time getting you some answers. Good luck!

  25. #275
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    The mechanic concluded that it might be the o-rings that are causing the friction, and after contacting Turner about it, this is what I got back from Greg:

    "Hi Kenneth,
    You will feel resistance in the suspension and it is caused by the O-rings.
    There is a break in period. Ride and enjoy.
    Have a great weekend.

    Greg"

    So now I have the bike built up, it seems normal enough when I sit and bounce on it for a bit, but I have to back out the rebound damping completely to have it return to full travel in a moderate (slightly slow) speed.

    I haven't tried it out in a trail yet, but the adjustability of the shock rebound seems to be compromised.

    Do your DHRs loosen up after a few runs, and is there a discernible "break-in" period for you guys?

    Even so, I love how my ride's looking now. Will post some pics soon.

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