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  1. #1
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    08-09 DHR bearing problems

    Was just replacing all of my pivot hardware and i noticed a couple of things. First of all, all of my needle bearings were seized, even with frequent greasing. Now this isnt a huge problem as im replacing them all anyway but it is worth mentioning. Also, the bearings specified to be used arent the sizes specified. the numbers on the bearing itself state that it is supposed to be a .6875in but every single bearing i have measures .6900in exactly with micrometers. Having pressed a few of the bearings in to the links, only one of them so far has turned out to rotate freely. It appears that the press fit for the needle bearings is far too tight and crushes the bearings slightly, so when i insert the hardened steel shafts the only way to get them in is to press them in. Once pressed in, the shafts will not rotate. Naturally, as an engineering student and a house full of engineers, im blaming the manufacturing. So, my question is, do i turn down the hardened steel shafts by a couple thousands or do i spend $40 for the proper reamer and ream the links out to the proper size? Will reaming the links out to the proper size void my warranty? i would also like other opinions on this as well. My local turner dealer has also noticed this problem on several of the DHRs he has sold through the shop.

  2. #2
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    call turner and then post up what they have to say.
    Last edited by airwreck; 04-22-2010 at 11:24 PM.

  3. #3
    Sov
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    I wouldn't worry about it. Just bolt up everything and ride - it will break in pretty quickly, and there's enough leverage on those needle bearings that you won't feel much/any stiction even when they're still tight. That's what i've experinced with my 06 dhr anyway.

  4. #4
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    the last ones that were put in never broke in, all they did was seize up. im not gonna deal with a problem that should've been taken care of by the frame manufacturer. the frame cost too much money to just deal with it and ride.

  5. #5
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    Those zerk fittings clog up too easily and you never really know if you're getting grease to the entire bearing assembly. Every time I work on my bike I just pop the swing links apart and spin the barrels around just to make sure they're not binding. I got in the habit of this with an 03, and 04 dhr. I haven't had a single bearing issue with the 09 I got last year.


    Full disclosure though, I ride mostly in dry conditions.
    STRAVA: Enabling dorks everywhere to get trails shut down........ all for the sake of a race on the internet.

  6. #6
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    it wasnt a problem of getting enough grease in the bearings. my zerks werent clogged and there was plenty of grease. the professional opinion i got was that the press fit is too tight. Now to fix it ive got some of the options listed above. and i really dont wanna spend $40 for a reamer or make new shafts and have to worry about case hardening them.

  7. #7
    Sov
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    Ok, have you measured the bearing IDs with a bore mic after being pressed in? You could measure the shafts and match them to the fitted bearings - smallest shaft with the smallest bore etc.

    If you run steel shafts in your shock eyelets, measure those too. If they're smaller than the two binding needle bearing shafts, then switch them over.

    If you're desparate to remove metal then I'd suggest turning down the shafts as they'd be cheaper to replace than the links if you screw up.

    Or you could just bolt together and ride

  8. #8
    Now with flavor!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScottSaxer
    it wasnt a problem of getting enough grease in the bearings. my zerks werent clogged and there was plenty of grease. the professional opinion i got was that the press fit is too tight. Now to fix it ive got some of the options listed above. and i really dont wanna spend $40 for a reamer or make new shafts and have to worry about case hardening them.

    I meant to highlight the spinning part over the greasing part.....I guess I wasn't too clear.


    This is assuming a decent match up from the get go however. I've got a bunch of these things laying around still I think. I could check some barrel diameters if you want.
    STRAVA: Enabling dorks everywhere to get trails shut down........ all for the sake of a race on the internet.

  9. #9
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    I've got an 09 DHR and although I haven't replaced any of my needle bearings in the linkage, I have stripped down the back of the bike and it did strike me just how stiff the shafts are when you try to rotate them in the bearings without the leverage of the swingarm, almost impossible.

    Even with the swingarm arm on, it still feels stiff when cycled through its travel without a shock connected.

    In my opinion there's to much stiction - the swingarm should fall freely under its own weight.

    What size were you thinking of reaming it out to?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHL29
    I've got an 09 DHR and although I haven't replaced any of my needle bearings in the linkage, I have stripped down the back of the bike and it did strike me just how stiff the shafts are when you try to rotate them in the bearings without the leverage of the swingarm, almost impossible.

    Even with the swingarm arm on, it still feels stiff when cycled through its travel without a shock connected.

    In my opinion there's to much stiction - the swingarm should fall freely under its own weight.

    What size were you thinking of reaming it out to?

    sounds like your bike has some issues with the bushings binding, my swingarm rotates really smoothly and stiction free.
    nothing witty here...

  11. #11
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    What did Turner say about this?

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    i havent talked to turner about this yet. will call either tomorrow or the next day.

    I would ream the holes out to .6900. which is the size of the bearings. if the press fit is then too loose i will use some of the loctite bearing retainer compound

  13. #13
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    Please keep us posted.

  14. #14
    Flyin Canine
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    my frame is having the same issues. Did anyone get a resolution on this issue? when I remove the swingarm it feels like the bearing is practically seized and I cannot turn the shaft more than a couple of degrees. I also cannot even pull the shaft out.

  15. #15
    Flyin Canine
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    Talked to tech support over at turner and they said that the shaft is pretty tight and it may need some hammer work to get it out. I'm gonna wait until I get some new bearings in hand before I try it in case the bearings get damaged during the process.

  16. #16
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    i just bought an 08 dhr second hand and tore the rear end down as soon as i got it. same thing - the bearings wouldnt budge. i thought they were just seized so i bought a new set. after i pressed them in, i could barely get the shafts in the new ones at all.
    the tolerance must be off on some of the 08's linkages. i took a dremel with a small cylindrical sanding bit and took off the annodize inside the linkage bearing recesses. bearings went in much easier afterwards and no longer squeezed them around the shaft. everythings moves freely and smoothly now.

  17. #17
    Flyin Canine
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    thanks uncle k for being brave and trying that one. I got new bearings from turner and they were pretty snug to press in with bolts and washers. That to me is ok as I don't want them rotating in the frame. Then I tried to get the pivot shaft back in and it was really tight. as in hand pressure would not budge it and a hammer would have been necessary. I thought about it for a bit and used a long bolt and washers and a socket to press it in and that worked. Afterward it would not spin by hand at all. I bolted the swing arm up and it moves with some noticeable stiffness. I am not sure if this is right or not but once it's all bolted up and I sit on the bike it feels totally normal. So the question is should the pivot shaft feel like it is seized when it is in the frame but ok once it's all bolted up? My other turners with bushings like the 5-spot and rfx feel kinda tight by hand too so maybe it's normal.

    here are some pictures of the setups I used to press out the old bearings and pull the new ones in. You should do it this way since using a hammer and drift will just destroy the old bearings and probably leave you with jacked bearings stuck in your frame.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 08-09 DHR bearing problems-img_0456.new.jpg  

    08-09 DHR bearing problems-img_0457.new.jpg  

    08-09 DHR bearing problems-img_0458.jpg  

    08-09 DHR bearing problems-img_0460.jpg  

    08-09 DHR bearing problems-img_0461.jpg  


  18. #18
    Flyin Canine
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    oh yeah and a big thanks to Greg and the guys over at Turner for making the new through bolt kit to fix the old issue of pivot bolts loosening up and for sending it to me hella fast so I can get ready to go to whistler next week.

  19. #19
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    just because the suspension is cycling doesn't mean that the bearings are working fine. if you had to squeeze the the shafts into the bearings then they are too tight. one of the shafts on my frame ( the one that was in the tightest bearing) actually has some wear from being forced to rotate inside the bearing when it was too tight. not saying you can't ride it, but you're definitely not getting the full effects of the bearing, and you may be causing some wear. after modifying my linkeage, all three shafts move easily and my rear end moves up and down freely without the shock. don't compare your rfx and spot to the dhr as they use bushings not bearings and should expect a small amount of friction.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sov
    Ok, have you measured the bearing IDs with a bore mic after being pressed in? You could measure the shafts and match them to the fitted bearings - smallest shaft with the smallest bore etc.

    If you run steel shafts in your shock eyelets, measure those too. If they're smaller than the two binding needle bearing shafts, then switch them over.

    If you're desparate to remove metal then I'd suggest turning down the shafts as they'd be cheaper to replace than the links if you screw up.

    Or you could just bolt together and ride
    actually i wouldn't turn down the shafts because they are a specific fit with the bearing size. according to turner the shafts are no longer available and do not come with the replacement bearing package anymore. you don't want to mess with this part, if your off just a little you're screwed.. just taking off the annodize inside the linkage was enough in my case to keep it from squeezing the bearing too much. still nice and snug in the linkage once pressed in, not even close to being loose enough to rotate inside the recess.

  21. #21
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    I'd be looking for a machine shop locally with the needed reamer. No sense buying it yourself if you only need it once.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Service Agent.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
    SPV Devolve

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