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  1. #1
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    TREK Superfly 100 cable routing

    I have a 2012 TREK superfly 100 full carbon full suspension, with SRAM XO 2 X 10 mounted (external cable routing). I seem to have a 1 or 2 second delay when i shift down on the rear der. sometimes i have to drop 2 or 3 gears to get it to move. I'm sure it is they way the cable is routed over the chainstay pivot behind the chainset, it sort of comes off the downtube and loops over the pivot onto the chainstay. I also had some ghost sfifting issues when standing in the granny gear to climb a steep embankment, where it would shift down 1 gear on it's own and then back onto the big gear when i sat down again.

    Has anyone else had any issues and how did they fix it, I'm thinking of trying to change the cable routing to run next to the pivot to try remove most of the loop.

  2. #2
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    More info please? XO type 2 rear or standard? Trigger or twist grip shifters? How many miles on the drive train components individually? Cable and/or cable housing replaced yet? Maintained well? Chain, rings, cassette conditions?

    I have a OCLV Trek Superfly 100 as well. I'm running 2x10 XT front with Sram 1080 11-26 rear with an X9 type 2 rear. I keep my drive train super clean and lubed for every ride. I have run through quite a bit of chains (XT), but there're cheap. This is the original rear cassette and since I moved over to 2x10 last summer, these are the original chain rings (about 2.5-3K miles on them). They are in need of replacing soon. Second set of cable housing and cables.

    My shift action is a bit on the slow side too. If I am under any kind of load whatsoever, it is not a good thing. Remember that mechanical devices can malfunction if not correctly operated. Not that you are doing that, but just remember to always plan ahead and make your shifts as smooth as possible. IMO, the cable routing has been engineered by Trek to function best in its current locations on this particular bike.

    You might consider all of the other variables first if you doing it yourself, or take it to your best LBS mechanic (one who is very familiar with Sram) and let them do it. Probably the best option for you.

  3. #3
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    It's XO Std RD, with XO trigger shifters. the cassette is brand new as well as the chain. The RD cables and new outers were installed about 200km (125 miles) ago. the chainset done approx. 500km (310 miles). Like you my drivetrain is kept exceptionally clean. I clean and lube it after every ride.
    Today i'm chaging to a type 2 RD and modifying my cable to a full outer, to make sure i'm not getting grime in th eouter. But i'm still convinced the loop over the pivot has something to do with it.

    Haha, if you saw the standard of out LBS mechanics yo would understand why i wrench my own bike. I'm a mech. eng. and have taught myself to repair bikes over the years. But this problem has got me stumped!!!

  4. #4
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    I have the same bike. It's just SRAM!

  5. #5
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    That loop does make shifting harder. When I put on my XX1 I just ran the cable and cover the entire length starting on the left side then crossing over to the right . The cable runs pretty straight by the pivot. The shifter works so smooth I kept shifting too many gears when I first put it on. Will try and post some photos on Monday.
    Last edited by dlennard; 08-06-2013 at 04:01 AM.

  6. #6
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    Due to the funky curves of the SF100 rear cable routing - very high cable tension is required, to prevent delayed shifts and ghost shifts under load. Under normal, fairly straight-path cable routing - a slight tug is all that's needed, before clamping-down....but with the SF100, you have to nearly max the pull at the cable end, for it to work right. Always use the smoothest, coated inner cables(ie; Shimano XTR, Torelli, Jagwire) for the best results.
    "The mind will quit....well before the body does"

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachariah View Post
    Due to the funky curves of the SF100 rear cable routing - very high cable tension is required, to prevent delayed shifts and ghost shifts under load. Under normal, fairly straight-path cable routing - a slight tug is all that's needed, before clamping-down....but with the SF100, you have to nearly max the pull at the cable end, for it to work right. Always use the smoothest, coated inner cables(ie; Shimano XTR, Torelli, Jagwire) for the best results.
    Zachariah's experience is exactly correct for me. The cable tension has to be very high. Even then, there is a extremely slight delay in up shifting (albeit with no ghost shifts) and it is necessary to use full movement of the shifter to correctly engage the selected rear ring. It doesn't bother me at all.
    I haven't seen the new 2013-14 SF100 yet. I wonder if the new cable routing solves some of this stuff. Not that is a big deal.
    Zachariah, just curious if you have tested (or own) the new SF100? Have you tested the new 29er Fuel in the 9.9 configuration?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by beastmaster View Post
    Zachariah, just curious if you have tested (or own) the new SF100? Have you tested the new 29er Fuel in the 9.9 configuration?
    Yes, I own a 2012 Superfly 100 Pro. I also tested the 2013 Superfly Pro SL and find it not nearly as stiff as my own. Trek whittled-away so much carbon to shave off a pound, that the bike is now noticeably flexy cornering and during high-wattage sprints.

    The new 29er Fuel 9.9 is another animal altogether. I compared it with the Niner Rip9 RDO and find it to be more rocket-like, in all respects. The DRCV and ABP with 142x12 rear gives it massive stability and Kung Fu grip.
    "The mind will quit....well before the body does"

  9. #9
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    I'm not understanding this talk of cable tension. cable tension is a function of the der spring. I suppose the exception is when der is bottomed out on smallest cog/limit screw.

    Having cabled up a 2012 and 2013 SF, there is more friction in the system due to cable loops. SP-41 housing and ptfe cable is the answer.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachariah View Post
    Yes, I own a 2012 Superfly 100 Pro. I also tested the 2013 Superfly Pro SL and find it not nearly as stiff as my own. Trek whittled-away so much carbon to shave off a pound, that the bike is now noticeably flexy cornering and during high-wattage sprints.

    The new 29er Fuel 9.9 is another animal altogether. I compared it with the Niner Rip9 RDO and find it to be more rocket-like, in all respects. The DRCV and ABP with 142x12 rear gives it massive stability and Kung Fu grip.
    I broke my 2011 SF100 front triangle and Trek graciously replaced it with a 2012 Pro. I wondered if the 2013 SF100 SL was going to be flexy. It is strange that it would be so, however. Given the new types of high modulus carbon, I would have hoped for less flex then early frames. Oh well!

    I really like the SF 100 geometry. Great race bike platform.

    That said, the 29er Fuel 9.9 could be really interesting. I am wondering if this bike has considerably slower overall steering characteristics and climbing abilities then the SF 100. Sometimes it might be nice to have a slightly (meaning slightly!) more relaxed geometry; something a touch less twitchy. Unless it is just a slug in corners and climbs.

  11. #11
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    I have the 2011 superfly elite 100, instead of running the cable over the rear pivot I ran the cable straight resting on the bottom bracket it shifts smooth, I also run a bit of bearing lube in the cable.

  12. #12
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    Digging up a rather old thread... I have rear ghost shifting issues with my 2010 superfly. Just as madmarc described, only I'm in the middle ring of a 3x9. I'm convinced its because of that bizarre loop around the pivot.

    BMSrider... any chance you can post up a picture of your modified routing? Thanks

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by djb2 View Post
    Digging up a rather old thread... I have rear ghost shifting issues with my 2010 superfly. Just as madmarc described, only I'm in the middle ring of a 3x9. I'm convinced its because of that bizarre loop around the pivot.

    BMSrider... any chance you can post up a picture of your modified routing? Thanks
    i should have come back earlier with a report back on what i did.
    My problem is solved but i also changed from std XO rear Der. to a type 2 so not sure if that contributed to the fix. But i changed my cable to a full outer by boring out the cable holders ID to accept the OD of the outer. In winter over here we have no rain so riding conditions are very dusty. Still think this is the best conversion you can do on any MTB.
    Before this i also ran my cable straight between the small chain ring and the chainstay pivot, to remove the stupid loop over the chainstay pivot. I didn't like this idea beacuse it's in the way of the frame guard disc which protects the frame in case of a dropped chain.
    so i re routed it with the loop again, but when i tightened the cable screw on the rear der. i didn't pull as much tension on the cable as i normally do (normally pull it faarking tight with a long nose pliers) once it was secure i used the barrel adjuster on the shifter to give it a small bit of additional tension, I also made the loop slightly bigger as it was originally very tight over the pivot to the point where it was wearing into the frame. I think or believe this is where the problem is, with the cable being too tight.

    My ghost shifting happened when i was in the biggest gear at the back and climbing a sudden steep embankment, it would shift 1 gear and sometimes 2 gears down causing me to lose momentum and end up having to climb off and push. I believe with a very tight cable the movement of the rear triangle in th upward direction as as well as the stupid cable routing design by TREK caused the cable to slightly loosen enough to allow the rear der to shift down. If i locked the rear shock it happened less, only because you cannot lock it solid, so with less movement it only down shifted 1 gear and not as often.

    I would try loosen the barrel adjuster only slightly and play around a bit to see if it resolves the problem. Also consider the full outer casing modification, that will save you a lot of headaches with dirt getting into the cables.

  14. #14
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    Thanks madmarc! Interesting thought with the slightly bigger loop. I'd also been considering going with the full housing. Maybe I'll try a bigger loop now, and full housing when I'm bored this winter. If anyone else has any suggestions, certainly welcome.

  15. #15
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    Try Gore Ride-On coated cable....
    "The mind will quit....well before the body does"

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