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Thread: Trek slash

  1. #301
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    Just piling on here. I bought a 2012 Slash 8 a few weeks ago, and I'm blown away by how well it climbs, and absolutely rips downhill.

    Not everything is perfect though. I personally hate SRAM shifting, but I guess I'll deal with it until it wears out enough to justify a swap to Shimano. The Reverb is finicky when the temps are below 45F or so, also, but maybe it will break in. The saddle is not the greatest, but that is where all manufacturers cut costs.

    Everything else is good. The brakes are better than expected, given how much people complain about Avids. The Fox 36 Talas and shock are awesome. Chainguide/bash rail are nice and silent. I love the bars, and the wheels seem good so far. The tires have worked for me on the hardpack and rocks I've been riding, but I am thinking of going tubeless. The Bontrager system looks pretty good.

    The most important part is completely awesome - how the suspension works so well both up and down. I cleaned an uphill technical section I rarely cleaned before and did it easily. Going down, it soaks up big hits easily, and steers around switchbacks much better than I expected. The small bump compliance at high speed is not as good as a DH bike, but that is a tradeoff for the pedaling efficiency, and it might get a little better as things break in. If you drop the fork and flip the shock to Propedal, it climbs fireroads as well as my short travel bike.


    Anyone on the fence about a Slash should just jump on. They are incredible rides. I'm not a Trek fanboy by any measure, but Trek has hit a huge home run with this one.

  2. #302
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    Anybody have a good place to read up on shock valving for these bikes? I'm blown away by how different the bike feels when you change things a few clicks one way and to the other. I wouldn't mind setting it up 'right' before I tinker with it.

  3. #303
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    What do you think changing Slash's character to Downhill bike?
    First throwing Fox 180 Van or dual crown fork front ( I don't how it will fit as dual crown's are 1-1/8 but Slash's frame is tapered)
    Than for rear, DHX R4 Coil.
    Last but not least, more durable wheels?
    2012 Trek Slash 9
    2012 Trek Session 9.9

  4. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaRaBeeN View Post
    What do you think changing Slash's character to Downhill bike?
    First throwing Fox 180 Van or dual crown fork front ( I don't how it will fit as dual crown's are 1-1/8 but Slash's frame is tapered)
    Than for rear, DHX R4 Coil.
    Last but not least, more durable wheels?
    Why? Why not just get a Session

  5. #305
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    Quote Originally Posted by Francesc View Post
    You can install one 8.5 x 2.5 shock.

    Travel increase up to 168mm
    Hi,

    How is this calculated?
    I'd like to get 180mm in the rear of my Slash so which one should I choose?
    Or due to lenght avaliability of the frame, max travel would be 168mm as you stated?

    Thanks
    2012 Trek Slash 9
    2012 Trek Session 9.9

  6. #306
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    Hi all,

    bought a new Slash 8 2012 for a great price:


    If someone needs info on the fit, I'm 6ft (183cm) and 19,5 Virtual fits me well with the 70mm stem and 750mm low rise bar. But the top tube is short, and If I was a inch taller, I would go with the bigger size. 14,9kg with M520 pedals (14,58kg w/o pedal, straight from the box).

    Must say, overall great bike. TALAS and propedal for the climbs goes without any problems despite it's weight. Great rear wheel traction. Plush and get all the travel without a bottom-out when descending. Great geometry and handling

    After harsh and hard hitting 10 rides, 2 things happened to the bike. The plastic part of the Truvativ X-guide snapped on the first ride so now you can see the pulleys. And the rear triangle started to develop sounds when stomping on the pedals hard or when you apply the rear brake. It is easily heard when you push the pedal to the floor. Anyone has some info regarding this ? My last FS did that when the bearings were old and damaged, or when the axles weren't tightened enough (or started unscrewing).

    But since it is quiet when climbing, I don't mind it for now.

  7. #307
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vuco View Post
    Hi all,

    bought a new Slash 8 2012 for a great price:


    If someone needs info on the fit, I'm 6ft (183cm) and 19,5 Virtual fits me well with the 70mm stem and 750mm low rise bar. But the top tube is short, and If I was a inch taller, I would go with the bigger size. 14,9kg with M520 pedals (14,58kg w/o pedal, straight from the box).

    Must say, overall great bike. TALAS and propedal for the climbs goes without any problems despite it's weight. Great rear wheel traction. Plush and get all the travel without a bottom-out when descending. Great geometry and handling

    After harsh and hard hitting 10 rides, 2 things happened to the bike. The plastic part of the Truvativ X-guide snapped on the first ride so now you can see the pulleys. And the rear triangle started to develop sounds when stomping on the pedals hard or when you apply the rear brake. It is easily heard when you push the pedal to the floor. Anyone has some info regarding this ? My last FS did that when the bearings were old and damaged, or when the axles weren't tightened enough (or started unscrewing).

    But since it is quiet when climbing, I don't mind it for now.
    First thing I would have your shop look at is your ABP bearings. Also make sure your mino link is tightened to spec. Some people have reported that their mino links weren't fully fastened out of the box.

  8. #308
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    I love my Slash, but lord is it a creaky bike. The culprit, for me at least, seems to be the part of the rear dropout that contacts the rear hub it appears to plastic, and the hub has the smallest amount of play (impercievable except for the creak) even when the wheel is seated properly and cinched tight. Anyway as long as I remove the wheel and clean the area out after every couple of rides its stays quite. A dab of grease works well also. On a side note the Ive notice I have to disassemble the reverb clamp every couple of ride too, and clean it out, or it creaks obnoxiously.

  9. #309
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    Thanks JonathanM. Will do when I bring the bike to the LBS for the first free checkup.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ominous View Post
    I love my Slash, but lord is it a creaky bike. The culprit, for me at least, seems to be the part of the rear dropout that contacts the rear hub it appears to plastic, and the hub has the smallest amount of play (impercievable except for the creak) even when the wheel is seated properly and cinched tight. Anyway as long as I remove the wheel and clean the area out after every couple of rides its stays quite. A dab of grease works well also. On a side note the Ive notice I have to disassemble the reverb clamp every couple of ride too, and clean it out, or it creaks obnoxiously.
    I'm not sure, but I think the saddle creaks a lot more than the Reverb clamp. The stock Bontrager saddle at least. I know that Reverb also makes some noise, but a lot less than the seat.

    But, I still got the "new bike" feeling so nothing matters, and every ride the Slash gives me that warm and happy feeling while riding it .

    One more question. The Slash says it's headset angle reducer compatible. To what degree ? 65 or all the way to 64° ? Not that it needs, but a good info to know.

  10. #310
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    I've had my 2012 Slash 9 for about 2 months now... It's mostly my fault for still being mostly new to this sport but my LBS let the chain be pretty slack at assembly and didn't put any tension on the chain guide... Five weeks into having the bike, I developed some pretty bad chain slap that completely wore the paint away and started to dig into the swing arm. So not stoked on that.

  11. #311
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoingOffRoading View Post
    I've had my 2012 Slash 9 for about 2 months now... It's mostly my fault for still being mostly new to this sport but my LBS let the chain be pretty slack at assembly and didn't put any tension on the chain guide... Five weeks into having the bike, I developed some pretty bad chain slap that completely wore the paint away and started to dig into the swing arm. So not stoked on that.
    You don't have the super huge and thick rubber Trek chainstay guard? Mine does.

    Even if you don't, there is no way this could happen unless you are running small chainring/small rear cog combos going downhill. Shift to the big ring for descents.

  12. #312
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    Piling on, two many threads?

    Got a slash 8, finds myself going more and more downhill. Got an offer for a fork upgrade to a 180mm air. Nevermind make etc, for more downhill freeride it specs better than the standard. But.. it adds weight and changes angles.... I do appreciate that the bike pedals really well and do not want to ruin it. I suppose warranties are out the window? Experience anyone?

  13. #313
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    So after 2 months of hard riding, the bike had to go to the first service by the LBS. 2 major problems - rear wheel made a awfull cracking noise while the rear brake was blocked and the front upper shock bearing completely disintegrated/failed on the last ride. LBS replaced the bearing which left a mark on the EVO link, and they said the rear wheel is ok, but the brake pads were making the noise. Will see about that since I tried with 3 different brakes before going to the LBS.

    Other minor stuff was creaking seatpost/saddle, vertical play in the Reverb, play in the GXP bottom bracket, broken plastics on the chainguide, creaking Fox 36 (not so bad) and anther problem is that the lowers of the fork have that problem that the axle gets unscrewed after 2-3 rides, regardless how tight you press that QRs on the lowers (and I know they shouldn't be pressed with much force or the lowers will fail). And yeah, a rear wheel that wasn't true.
    Elixirs got replaced after one hard ride when the pads glazed and the brake started to make an awful noise while applying the brakes light. Shimano Zee replaced them, and I'm very satisfied how they preform on Avid HS1 rotors.

    All in all, definitely too many problems with the bike in 2 months riding but hope everything goes well from now. Really enjoy the bike going up and down. But that 2014 650b Slash with 65° HTA is looking really nice

    If anyone knows where to get the rim strip for Rythm Comp in EU. My LBS got only 1 rim strip and 2 valves. Also got the Continental Revo Sealant for the job.

    And yes, can tubeless be done with XR4 Expert 2.35 or do I really need Team Issue edition (that are TLR) ?

  14. #314
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    How has a longer fork, and slightly heavier I suppose, affected performance / balance? I'm thinking of doing a 180mm upgrade myself and just posted a thread on this. I see that you also upgraded the shock. How does it all work now 6 months later? Is the bike still good for pedalling?

  15. #315
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    Quote Originally Posted by coicab View Post
    Heres my 2012 slash 8. A few mods Ive done:

    Fox 180mm Van front forks
    Truvativ 740mm Boobars
    Truvativ 40mm stem
    2.5 Maxxis Minion DHF tyre

    (Sorry about the crap pic)
    How has a longer fork, and slightly heavier I suppose, affected performance / balance? I'm thinking of doing a 180mm upgrade myself and just posted a thread on this. I see that you also upgraded the shock. How does it all work now 6 months later? Is the bike still good for pedalling?

  16. #316
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    G'day AxelH, After 6months of riding with both the 180van and RS coil rear end all I can say is I still love the way it handles and I'm a huge fan of coil suspension. I've had no problems at all and I ride with a mate who has a stock slash 8 and we swap bikes now and then and I wouldn't go back to stock. The coil rear end was the best mod I did and does not affect uphill riding but when you point it downhill it is so much more confident inspiring.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Trek slash-imag0272a.jpg  

    2012 Trek slash 8
    2008 Specialized Stumpy


    Prev Bikes:
    2010 Trek scratch (gone but great bike)
    2012 Specialized Demo 8

  17. #317
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    Which rim strip is for tubeless on the Rythm Comp (that came with Slash 8 2012) ?
    Bontrager: Tubeless Replacement Parts (Model #02566)

    This one ?
    Part. no 400336 9.99 Black 26 Rhythm Tubeless Rim Strip-Symmetric 559 x 22

    Also, you guys running the stock shock (DRCV). Can you compress the shock that the o-ring fells of the shock body ? When I empty the air, push the shock down I don't go to the end of the stroke, but the o-ring shows that the shock still hase 3-4mm of travel. Something inside stops it.
    Last edited by Vuco; 07-22-2013 at 05:14 AM. Reason: additional question

  18. #318
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    How well does Slash climb compared to Remedy?

  19. #319
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    I have some sizing problem by the 2014er 650b Slash. Is the seat tube 21,5" or 521 mm? It's not the same (21,5"=543mm). Here is the sizing: n/a at n/a in Chilliwack, British Columbia, Canada - photo by mikelevy - Pinkbike

  20. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluntrager View Post
    How well does Slash climb compared to Remedy?
    Not sure what you're expecting to hear...but it doesn't climb as well.

  21. #321
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero View Post
    Not sure what you're expecting to hear...but it doesn't climb as well.
    BUT DESCENDS LIKE A BAT OUT OF HELL!!!! lol

  22. #322
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    I was certainly expecting to hear that it doesn't climb as well hah. I am more interested in how much more tired someone would be doing the same climb with both bikes for example. I'm sure we're all mostly interested in going down here, but my main concern is that the Slash will limit my ability to go as far up as I'm already not in the greatest shape. I'm also interested in reassurance that the level of fun on the way down will be well worth any extra difficulty in going up (which I'm sure it is!).

  23. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluntrager View Post
    I was certainly expecting to hear that it doesn't climb as well hah. I am more interested in how much more tired someone would be doing the same climb with both bikes for example. I'm sure we're all mostly interested in going down here, but my main concern is that the Slash will limit my ability to go as far up as I'm already not in the greatest shape. I'm also interested in reassurance that the level of fun on the way down will be well worth any extra difficulty in going up (which I'm sure it is!).
    I've got 400+ miles on mine so far this summer and have never been so impressed with a bike. My local trails consist of mainly technical/rocky/rooty single track. It climbs very well for its type and I never use the Talas drop feature, don't need it on this bike. Actually, the fork is going to Push this winter for a Float conversion.
    It rips even the gnarliest downhill. I raced the Enduro at Keystone on this and I never felt sketched out on any of the stages. Very impressed on how it handled the steep, rocky terrain on that mountain.
    I highly recommend this bike to the DH rider looking for a trail bike or for those looking for one bike that does everything well, especially the downhill.
    I'm on the 2012 Slash 9 by the way and I can't speak for a Remedy.

  24. #324
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluntrager View Post
    I was certainly expecting to hear that it doesn't climb as well hah. I am more interested in how much more tired someone would be doing the same climb with both bikes for example. I'm sure we're all mostly interested in going down here, but my main concern is that the Slash will limit my ability to go as far up as I'm already not in the greatest shape. I'm also interested in reassurance that the level of fun on the way down will be well worth any extra difficulty in going up (which I'm sure it is!).
    Can't compare it to a Remedy, never rode one. But, on the same climb I changed bikes with my friend on a Specialized Stumpjumper EVO 2013. His bike is ~1,4kg lighter than my Slash 8 2012 stock with M520 pedals and Shimano Zee brakes (15,1kg). Part of that weight difference is in wheelset, cause he has tubeless, so lets say his wheelset + tires is 300g lighter than mine.

    The Slash is a good climber when seated and propedal on. When you push it goes forward, little bob, good traction. But hammering while standing, it bobs like hell even with propedal on. Talas fork helps on really steep climbs when you need your weight to be shifted forward.

    The EVO has a Fox CTD with the climb mode, which is much firmer than mine propedal. Part of this, part of wheelset weight and the whole weight - the bike climbs easier. It isn't a lot, but noticable after a few strokes. It the climb is rocky, it will be less noticable, but when the climb is a nice single track or a fireroad, than it is easier to climb with the lighter bike, in this case - the EVO.

  25. #325
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    ^^Thanks for the info guys. Ordered a 2014 Slash 8, should be here in the 1st week of November, fingers crossed for sooner. Can't wait!

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    The 650b 2014 ? Wow, jelly a little. 300g lighter frame than 2012/2013, and they say (one italian magazine) it climbs better than older 26" versions. Can you tell what was the price if it's not a secret ?

  27. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vuco View Post
    The 650b 2014 ? Wow, jelly a little. 300g lighter frame than 2012/2013, and they say (one italian magazine) it climbs better than older 26" versions. Can you tell what was the price if it's not a secret ?
    MSRP:

    $5769.99 for the 9
    $4499.99 for the 8
    $3669.99 for the 7

  28. #328
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    2013 Trek Slash install Float X & Float 36 180

    Trek slash-2014-36-float-180-fit-rc2-f-main.jpgTrek slash-fox-float-x.jpgAbout to install a 2014 Fox Float X and 2014 Fox Float 36 180 RC2 on my 2013 Trek Slash 8. I am still waiting on the Fork to arrive, but I will do a detailed post once everything is here and on the bike. Thanks coicab for helping me figure out how to do it!!

  29. #329
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    I wonder how it will effect riding with 180 upfront, please share your experience.
    Besides, what would be rear travel with new shock?
    2012 Trek Slash 9
    2012 Trek Session 9.9

  30. #330
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    It will give it 8mm more travel in the rear. I will let you know how it feels once I get everything all set up. I am still waiting on the fork to come. According to the research I have done, it should feel a lot like a 2011 Trek Scratch only with a longer wheel base and frame reach.
    Quote Originally Posted by CaRaBeeN View Post
    I wonder how it will effect riding with 180 upfront, please share your experience.
    Besides, what would be rear travel with new shock?
    Last edited by Jspilk12; 09-21-2013 at 04:12 PM.

  31. #331
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    I recently had rear shock issues with the DRCV on my 2012 Slash. The lower shock mount bolt snapped from bottoming out the shock on big hits, creating further damage to bushings and other parts. Air pressure was higher than normal in hopes of preventing this, but I'm finding out this is a common problem with the DRCV. Worth noting here, the indicator O ring does not slide off the shock piston when shock is bottomed out. So heads up the rubber O ring is not an indicator if you are bottoming out the shock, which can lead to other damage.

    IMHO this shock is too light duty for this frame. And shame on Trek for proprietary geometry to prevent aftermarket solutions, particularly when they design a fabulous light DH frame, then throw on a cross country shock. Worse, they don't admit it's their problem, quickly blaming companies like Fox, and following other companies moving to proprietary setups.

    Thankfully, Suspension Experts in Asheville, NC (talk to Mike the DRCV guru) understands the shortcomings of these shocks and can easily modify to increase Big Hit resistance AND increase the damping for better pro pedal climbing.

    The above is definitely worth the ~ $170 rebuild. Long term however, I'd rather invest in a better shock rather than sink more money into one which is too light duty for my style of riding.

    I took my frame to Cane Creek (down the street where I live), hoping to outfit it with the new Double Barrel CS air. Unfortunately the larger sized barrel will hit the frame. Then I started reading more on this thread. Wow, good to hear people on this thread are coming up with their own solutions.

    Jspilk12 and coicab, could you PM me some photos of your setup? I maybe going this route soon and keep the DRCV as backup.

  32. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by piccirilli View Post
    I recently had rear shock issues with the DRCV on my 2012 Slash. The lower shock mount bolt snapped from bottoming out the shock on big hits, creating further damage to bushings and other parts. Air pressure was higher than normal in hopes of preventing this, but I'm finding out this is a common problem with the DRCV. Worth noting here, the indicator O ring does not slide off the shock piston when shock is bottomed out. So heads up the rubber O ring is not an indicator if you are bottoming out the shock, which can lead to other damage.

    IMHO this shock is too light duty for this frame. And shame on Trek for proprietary geometry to prevent aftermarket solutions, particularly when they design a fabulous light DH frame, then throw on a cross country shock. Worse, they don't admit it's their problem, quickly blaming companies like Fox, and following other companies moving to proprietary setups.

    Thankfully, Suspension Experts in Asheville, NC (talk to Mike the DRCV guru) understands the shortcomings of these shocks and can easily modify to increase Big Hit resistance AND increase the damping for better pro pedal climbing.

    The above is definitely worth the ~ $170 rebuild. Long term however, I'd rather invest in a better shock rather than sink more money into one which is too light duty for my style of riding.

    I took my frame to Cane Creek (down the street where I live), hoping to outfit it with the new Double Barrel CS air. Unfortunately the larger sized barrel will hit the frame. Then I started reading more on this thread. Wow, good to hear people on this thread are coming up with their own solutions.

    Jspilk12 and coicab, could you PM me some photos of your setup? I maybe going this route soon and keep the DRCV as backup.
    I just added a 7cc volume reducer last week from Push. Made a big difference all around for me.

  33. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jspilk12 View Post
    About to install a 2014 Fox Float X and 2014 Fox Float 36 180 RC2 on my 2013 Trek Slash 8. I am still waiting on the Fork to arrive, but I will do a detailed post once everything is here and on the bike. Thanks coicab for helping me figure out how to do it!!
    Sorry guys, I am new in this Slash thread and wonder how you and Coicab will get these shocks fitting the Slash frame. Will you use offset bushings ?
    Once installed with the Fox 180 which will be the BB height? I would prefer lower than the default 360 in the slacker setup

  34. #334
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    The o ring doesn't slide off but is just before sliding off so it is not difficult to understand if you bottom your shock especially if you have already done it a few times as you said. Except for that I agree with you about this stupid proprietary shocks and forks but if you think about that it makes sense to adjust your shock to the frame rather the frame to a standard shock.

    Anyway if you want to use another shock you have 5 options.
    1. Use offset bushings
    2. Increase the sag so i2i will be the same
    3. Do nothing and change the geometry
    4. Equally increase fork and shock but BB height will change
    5. Rebuild it

    Of course you can also just add more air so you wont bottom it. Everything is a comprise.

  35. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by piccirilli View Post
    shame on Trek for proprietary geometry to prevent aftermarket solutions,.
    are you refering to the way the DRCV shock fits to the linkage? if sothis has been discussed on this forum before. theres no reason why you cant fit a standard eyelet shock to any DRCV trek frame, you just need longer upper shock bushes.

  36. #336
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    Finally found a solution to my blown DRCV shock. Took the advice of Suspension Experts and sunk money into an improved shock rather rebuilding the DRCV. After reviewing a few shock options, I kept going back to the cane creek DB, considering it's stellar reviews and infinite tune-ability. So Suspension Experts physically mounted up both versions. Clearly, the Double barrel Air CS will not fit due to the CS switch hit the down tube when compressed all the way. And even if it did fit, easy access to the switch would be a problem. However, luckily for Slash owners, the standard Double barrel air (w/o cs) will fit with plenty of clearance. I mounted it up with light aluminum hardware for testing only. Due to recent experience of the DRCV failure, and subsequent mounting hardware failure and frame damage (bushings gouging into frame), I no longer trust the aluminum bolts Trek provides. They bend too easily. Also I would not recommend reducing the upper mounting to 8mm bearing and bolts for the same reason. I'm leaving the 10mm bearings in place and going with 10mm titanium bolt top mount and replacing bottom with ti for additional strength. Of course I could use stainless, but the massive upper bolt alone weighs damn near 1/4lb in SS. Doesn't make sense to spend some coin on a new shock and then go cheap on hardware. I will be posting more details later with pictures, the hardware used to make the conversion, and trail feedback.

  37. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by piccirilli View Post
    replacing bottom with ti for additional strength. Of course I could use stainless, but the massive upper bolt alone weighs damn near 1/4lb in SS. Doesn't make sense to spend some coin on a new shock and then go cheap on hardware..
    they're not exactly cheap, but titanium bolts are available in that size & are fairly lightweight

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    I like the idea of titanium bolts!! I was planning on using the same 10mm bolt that Trek Provides for the Scratch, but I may switch to titanium. Good idea!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jspilk12 View Post
    About to install a 2014 Fox Float X and 2014 Fox Float 36 180 RC2 on my 2013 Trek Slash 8. I am still waiting on the Fork to arrive, but I will do a detailed post once everything is here and on the bike. Thanks coicab for helping me figure out how to do it!!
    That setup looks amazing for the Slash. Post some pics whenever ready to ride.
    My plan is to test the bike with a Monarch Plus whenever able to understand the conversion process. Have read about the DIY on the Remedy but not sure if the hardware for the Slash (apart of the 10mm bolt) is the very same or here we need to use different bushings size.

    On Remedy:

    39.88mm x 10mm UP and
    39.88mm x 8mm DOWN

    Quote Originally Posted by Paris Galanis View Post
    The o ring doesn't slide off but is just before sliding off so it is not difficult to understand if you bottom your shock especially if you have already done it a few times as you said. Except for that I agree with you about this stupid proprietary shocks and forks but if you think about that it makes sense to adjust your shock to the frame rather the frame to a standard shock.

    Anyway if you want to use another shock you have 5 options.
    1. Use offset bushings
    2. Increase the sag so i2i will be the same
    3. Do nothing and change the geometry
    4. Equally increase fork and shock but BB height will change
    5. Rebuild it

    Of course you can also just add more air so you wont bottom it. Everything is a comprise.
    Thanks for shedding me light on this
    Last edited by Darthfury; 09-28-2013 at 10:07 AM.

  40. #340
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    Cane Creek DB Air mounted, more info to come... See photos.

    Trek slash-dsc00856.jpgTrek slash-dsc00857.jpg

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    Hi. It looks great. Was it an easy fit? What is the eye to eye difference vs. the stock shock? Any changes to BB height, riding?

    Yes, I know. Too many questions but I am really interested.

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    I rode my Slash with DB air a couple of times this weekend. Without any doubt, my Slash is far more capable than it EVER did with the DRCV. Here are some initial observations:

    -Conversion is very durable, much more so than Treks' original setup. These Ti bolts are beefy, and so is the shock. Weight addition is minimal.

    -Bottoming out on big hits, jumps, etc. is not an issue any longer. In fact, air pressure on the DB air is 50lbs less compared to DRCV.

    -The DB air does not blow thru the mid travel as it did on the DRCV. Can't explain why, but it has the feel of much more travel. Both small bump compliance and big hit compliance is much more smoother and controlled. The uncontrolled feeling in the rear used to be the weakest part of my descents. Now with DB AIR, I notice the front fork is having a hard time keeping up with the rear.

    -Both compression and rebound are now tune-able via adjustments, something I could not do before. Actually, there are 4 adjustments.

    - Unfortunately, there is no damping lockout (DB AIR CS will not fit on Slash). So as expected there is some bobbing while climbing seated. However, I was able to tune most of the bobbing out with the LSC and LSR adjustments. Not a deal breaker, because I'm not expecting my Slash to climb like my cross country bike.

    -The extra travel length and change of geometry is not an issue, because shock is setup with more sag compared to DRCV. It rides a bit lower, so effectively the BB height is about the same.

    Suspension Experts were very accommodating with suggestions and fit during my conversion. They are considering putting together a Slash bushing kit for the Slash. Expect a decision soon. Hopefully they will, because it will be far easier to purchase all the parts needed at one source rather than 3 or 4 like I did. They will also warranty the shock if you buy from them. If they don't, I will put together a detail guide and post it here by the end of the week.

    BTW, I ran into another Slash owner this weekend who is now on his 3rd swing arm, cracking it at the main bearing. He is also bending the aluminum shock bolts, both due to bottoming out DRCV. When I asked how he knows if he bottoms out, he claimed the rubber O ring indicator was not pushed off the piston. Heads up folks, the O ring does not slide off the piston when DRCV bottoms out.

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    Very interesting review. Thanks for sharing this with us. Like me I think we are several ones interested.

    I would like more info about the hardware you used for this conversion.
    Understood that you just replaced the default bolts by Ti ones. If it is your shop who would offer the kit I would buy it for sure.

    Jspilk12 was doing his conversion. Let's see what he shows and tell us.

  44. #344
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    I will have mine built up some time this Saturday. Fox sent me the wrong topbushings, but I called them today and got it all straightened out.
    Trek slash-updated-slash.jpg
    Here is a pic of it without anything actually mounted.

  45. #345
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    Did you fit the rear shock using standard or offset bushings in order to keep the same eye to eye distance?

  46. #346
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    Quote Originally Posted by piccirilli View Post
    BTW, I ran into another Slash owner this weekend who is now on his 3rd swing arm, cracking it at the main bearing. He is also bending the aluminum shock bolts, both due to bottoming out DRCV. When I asked how he knows if he bottoms out, he claimed the rubber O ring indicator was not pushed off the piston. Heads up folks, the O ring does not slide off the piston when DRCV bottoms out.
    Not sure if I read right - was he killing the swingarms because of the "oring didn't drop" thing or ?

    And yeah, thanks for adding your personal info. I asked about it months ago, got no answer. Hate how Trek did it, just like Spec on the Enduros when they had 14mm of shock travel "left", but it was just like this case. No body tried to push it when the air chamber was empty. So many things can go wrong.

    Do you maybe know what is blocking the shock inside to have full travel ? Cause I think the rear triangle (or the bridge connecting the seat stays) had 1-2cm of space between itself and the seat tube when in full compression. Can't tell if anything else will hit before it (ie chain stay to the front derailleur).

    @Jspilk12
    Love that blue color

  47. #347
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paris Galanis View Post
    Did you fit the rear shock using standard or offset bushings in order to keep the same eye to eye distance?
    No, I didn't use offset bushings. The new shox gives me 8mm more travel, so I can run more sage, which should keep the bb height about the same. It also gives me the option of running less sag for super rocky trails(avoid hitting pedals on rocks).

  48. #348
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    Yes, he is killing the swing arm because of shock bottoming out, displacing the force directly to the frame. He was thinking it was something else causing the issues since the O ring was not pushing off the shock piston. He's also not willing to increase air pressure because it will kill small bump compliance. This is just one issue where the DRCV fails to perform.

    Like Jspilk12, I am not using offset bushings, there is no need to. With an 8.5" X 2.5" shock, there is a stroke clearance of approx. 1/8" before frame 'tops out' of travel extension. So the extra 8mm travel is a welcome bonus. The only potential issue is with the shock itself hitting the frame, as is the case with the latest iteration of the DB AIR with the CS switch.

    I chose the Cane Creek DB Air (w/o CS) as it's beefy enough for DH abuse. I've been told, the CK DB Air is the standard by which all other shocks are compared to.. this is coming from a shop like Push that does nothing but rebuild shocks. But I would expect any double barrel shock (DHX5, Monarch, etc) outperform the one Trek spec'd for the Slash.

  49. #349
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    I thought that due to the full floater rear triangle even when you bottom the shock the impact on the frame would be minimal. Also in my Fuel one time that I bottomed my rear shock without making a jump or taking a drop the o ring fell off.

    Anyway I am really looking forward to hearing more after your further ride your bikes.

  50. #350
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    Just for input, when I bottom out my '12 Slash 9, o-ring falls off..I think my drcv shock still in good condition because it really feels like butter on small bumps, and gives coil-like feeling on mid to big drops..

    The only reason (as long as drcv shock still operational) to change my shock would be to gain extra travel or go for coil, I really wish that it would bump up to 180mm but I think max would be 168mm
    2012 Trek Slash 9
    2012 Trek Session 9.9

  51. #351
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    Be sure that your o-ring isn't just "old" and lost its compression ability. Easy way to find out - let the air out and compress the shock.

  52. #352
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    Shock Upgrade Guide.

    As promised, here is a step by step guide for upgrading Slash stock Shock. Unfortunately MTBR would not allow uploading full res, forcing me to do low res screen captures and post as photos. If anyone wants the guide in better format and resolution, PM me with your email and I'll send it as a power point presentation you can print out. ENJOY!
    Trek slash-page1.jpgTrek slash-page2.jpg
    Here are the parts you will need:
    1) 40mm X 10mm eyelet mounting hardware kit. Rock Shock makes one. The BTI part # is RS7563 and can be seen here: BTI | Rear Shock Springs & Parts from Rock Shox (page 1) The photo does not show, but you’ll get 2 bushings and one 40mm long SS sleeve to fit a 10mm thru bolt. I believe Fox Racing Shox also makes one, which you can order directly from them.

    Next, you will need to order some specialty bolts. I highly recommend titanium for both strength and keeping it light. Using Trek aluminum alloy bolts are not sufficient and will bend/break. Going with SS will work, but it will add ¼ lb of weight! Whatever you decide, stick with Flange hex heads and nuts, as they will correctly ride against the inner raceway of bearings. Also pay attention to the shoulder length as shown on next slide before ordering. Here’s what to order:

    2) One Ti Hex Flange bolt 10mm-1.25 X 80mm (cut to exact dims next slide)
    3) One Ti hex flange nut 10mm-1.25)
    4) One Ti hex flange bolt 8mm-1.25 X 60mm (cut to exact dims next slide)
    The above Ti hardware can be purchase at the following sites: Hex Flange Bolts, 140Ksi Ti cheapest I found, but only comes in silver. Pro-Bolt Titanium Flanged Hex Head Bolts for those that want specific color.

    5) Next you’ll need a stack (Quantity 8-12) of SS shim washers ½” ID X .01” to .02” thick. These thin washers will fine tune the spacing you need, which can vary frame to frame and your shock. I made some out of shim stock, but I highly recommend just buying them. Try your local nut and bolt shop, or from here: 18-8 Stainless Steel Shim by ACCURATE MFD PRODUCTS - Shim Stock by Zoro Tools Industrial Supplies

    Total cost will be ~ $50 for the Ti hardware and shims.
    Trek slash-page4.jpg
    Trek slash-page5.jpgTrek slash-page6.jpgTrek slash-page7.jpg
    Last edited by piccirilli; 10-11-2013 at 05:57 AM.

  53. #353
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    Amazing job! Thanks a lot...
    You got PM btw
    2012 Trek Slash 9
    2012 Trek Session 9.9

  54. #354
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    For those you you have fitted an Aftermarket shock in your slash, what size frame are you guys running? I just tried to fit a Vivid Air in my frame (a 17.5) and Im having clearance issues with the reservoir hitting the down tube. Are you guys on bigger frames?

  55. #355
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    Look at my post outfitted with a CK DB air. It's mounted on a large frame. However, it could also be the Vivid Air reservoir sticking out further. Is it the bottom of the reservoir hitting the bottom tube?

  56. #356
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    Yeah it the bottom edge of the reservoir. Upside down doesnt look like it gonna work either.

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    What's the exact distance from the edge of the reservoir hitting the frame to the center of the lower pivot bolt? On the CK double barrel it's 76mm, with plenty of clearance. If it's much more on yours, then it's probably the shock and not the frame.

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    Rock Shox Monarch

    I would like to get ahold of a Rock Shox Monarch if they're even available to the public. The following pic was posted on Pinkbike. Must be for a Sram sponsored rider...


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    Did anyone tried to remove the thick metal plate (and put a thinner one, like a bih shim for example) in the DRCV shock main chamber ? This is ~4mm thick and I think it is stopping the shock to have a full travel (60,5mm instead of 64,5mm that the shock measures).

    Trek slash-dsc_0401-kopiraj-.jpg

  60. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaslke View Post
    I would like to get ahold of a Rock Shox Monarch if they're even available to the public. The following pic was posted on Pinkbike. Must be for a Sram sponsored rider...

    Hey I have one of those a Monarch Plus as well

    Yeah, custom made for Trek pros

    99% of the problems and questions posted here would be answered if people actually walked into a bicycle shop and asked

  61. #361
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    Lots of these people asked bike shops and didnt get answers.

  62. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jspilk12 View Post
    Lots of these people asked bike shops and didnt get answers.
    N yet we are supposed to sapport the bike shops....pffttt

  63. #363
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    This has probably been asked before but will the Slash happily handle all day 30-40 mile epics as well as the usual shred fests that it's designed for?...

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    Did the different i2i and stroke dimensions vs. the stock ones caused any clearance issues under pressure? Also did you notice and actual differences in the way the bike handles geometry wise?

  65. #365
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    Trek slash

    Quote Originally Posted by Jspilk12 View Post
    I will have mine built up some time this Saturday. Fox sent me the wrong topbushings, but I called them today and got it all straightened out.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here is a pic of it without anything actually mounted.
    You owe us a pic of yours with the FloatX and your impressions riding it
    Last edited by Darthfury; 11-17-2013 at 08:37 AM.

  66. #366
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just J View Post
    This has probably been asked before but will the Slash happily handle all day 30-40 mile epics as well as the usual shred fests that it's designed for?...
    I'd say yes if you don't change the air suspension to coil or mount extra heavy tires. There are definitely lighter bikes (since Slash is round 14,5kg in L size w/o pedals) but with good position on it, good parts and nice suspension (just don't pedal a lot out of the saddle) its a pleasure to ride all day.

  67. #367
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    Modifyed Trek Slash Impressions

    Trek slash-apex-2.jpgTrek slash-apex-1.jpgTrek slash-1397800_10151795500712535_969306715_o.jpg

    I love how my Slash feels with the modifications! I have added the following: 2014 Fox Float X Rear Shock
    2014 Fox Float RC2 180
    I am planning on adding a wider handlebar, and some DMR Vault pedals.
    I feel way more confident on the bike now. It handles more like a DH bike. Drops and jumps are less sketchy with the slacker head tube angle. The bb is slightly higher, but I haven't noticed a big difference in cornering yet; however I haven't ridden a trail on it yet that requires a lot of high speed cornering.
    It feels a lot like a Slash coil, only with a longer wheel base. I am still messing around with the air pressure in the rear shock, but I like what I feel so far. The new 2014 Fox Suspension is definitely improved from last years stuff!

  68. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vuco View Post
    I'd say yes if you don't change the air suspension to coil or mount extra heavy tires. There are definitely lighter bikes (since Slash is round 14,5kg in L size w/o pedals) but with good position on it, good parts and nice suspension (just don't pedal a lot out of the saddle) its a pleasure to ride all day.
    Thanks Vuco, much appreciated. I'm really keen to get one, my friend who owns a local Trek dealer is expecting one in the next couple of weeks in my size, I know I'll probably put the money down on one. I've been really impressed with Treks lately, I own a Stache and a Crossrip and to be honest I'm more smitten with them than my custom build Yeti some of the time.

  69. #369
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    Trek slash

    My Slash feels dialed now. Super stoked. 27.5 with 2.3 tires fits great. Monarch plus is unreal. The fork is perfect and 1x10 gearing rocks

    99% of the problems and questions posted here would be answered if people actually walked into a bicycle shop and asked

  70. #370
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    It's nice to see the new Slash 9 getting ridden the hell out of in this video:




  71. #371
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    Got my Slash 8 2012 dialed in also.



    Changed the brakes, Elixir 9 to Shimano Zee, instead of XR4 Expert I've put the Team Issue version for tubeless and after ~1500km went to a 1x10 drivetrain (Works Components 28T direct mount + stock 11-36 SRAM 1050 cassette and SLX 10 speed chain).

    Some thoughts regarding new gear. Zee Brakes are excellent (but are heavy). Power and modulation is one of the best I've tried. I've ridden SLX brakes before which were great but this is a new level of modulation. I knew that the Zee must be powerful, but they have all the modulation the SLX/XT don't have. One minus would be the lever feel. The seals on the 4 piston caliper are "slow" when retracting the pistons. Cause of this you can easily "pump" the brake which will change the grab/braking point. It's not air in the system, it's simply the seals are slow on the retraction, so the pistons stay out a longer time. During winter time (temps under 0°C) this is noticable a lot more than in summer when it can't almost be felt.

    Really like Bontrager Tubeless system (rim strip) and how the tire hangs on it. Had it 3 months without a problem, but when it failed on me (actually, the Continental Revo sealant failed) it was a disaster. The sealant just got out of the tire without trying to fix it. Made a mini eco disaster in the forest with all the Revo coming out. Had to put an inner tube to get home. This was the problem that the Conti Revo couldn't fix:


    All in all, lost some confidence in tubeless, even though maybe a change of sealant in the future. I really wouldn't like to put a heavier tires on it.

    Now the 1x10 drivetrain. Cost was ~50€ for the Works components direct mount (since the Slash came with X9 crankset) narrow-wide front ring with 28T. We have some long steep climbs (1-1,5h long) so 28T was a must for 11-36 cassette for me. In the rear it's still the stock X0 Long cage mech without clutch. I bought a Zee shifter and rear mech to replace it but didn't for now cause the chain didn't drop once. Works components really does great stuff for a great price. Can' tell if it's because of the rear suspension that Trek has, but for some reason it works like a charm even without a clucth. Also, removed 600g from the bike with 1x10, and it is nice to have only one shifter to care about. I didn't get any faster, but enjoy my bike a lot more, being it a lot quieter

    Maybe in a far future I'd change the wheelset to something lighter, a Pike instead of TALAS 36 but for now (so it would be under 14kg), it works admirably well. I enjoy every stroke.
    Last edited by Vuco; 12-15-2013 at 10:53 AM.

  72. #372
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    Plan to replace my '12 Slash 9's fork ('12 Fox 36 Talas 160) with '14 Fox 36 Float 160..
    What do you say? Worthy change?
    I don't use Talas function at all, don't find my Talas plush enough even I set air very low values..
    2012 Trek Slash 9
    2012 Trek Session 9.9

  73. #373
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    Trek slash

    Yeah that stock fork stunk. I'd recommend the Xfusion vengeance over the 14 36 float. It is more plush and more tunable. Slightly heavier is the only downside.
    99% of the problems and questions posted here would be answered if people actually walked into a bicycle shop and asked

  74. #374
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    Hi All!

    I am from Hong Kong who recently built a 2012 Slash 9 frame with 2014 Rockshox Pike (not in the picture) and running all 3x10 gears for my all day riding up and down here. But I have problems in setting the RP-3 DRCV shock on my bike.
    1. I am around 160 pounds with all gear on, I have already pumped 185 psi to the shock, yet it seems easily bottom out with moderate hits.....How's u guys set the rear? As I can't find any recommended pressure from trek or others sources.

    2. The propedal knob shows 3-1-0 on the shock.....but they are just the same, I can't feel any differences among them when testing on a flat road.....Is that normal?

    Wish I could find the answer here. Thanks!
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  75. #375
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    Don't have an RP3, but this could help you:
    FLOAT RP2, RP3, RP23 DRCV

    I have a Slash 8 with RP2, so only have 2 positions - open and propedal. Propedal slightly damps the shock movement, so it doesn't bob when seated (but reacts to all bumps). But when you hit the pedals it bobs a lot. Be seated and look at the shock when pedaling normal.

    Also, the DRCV shock has 2 chambers, so you need to be careful when you check for real SAG and true pressure in the shock. If the shock is completely empty, both chambers are empty. When you inflate the shock, you only inflate the bigger chamber. Then you need to compress the shock more that 50%, so both chambers equalize (it means that the pressure will drop in the main chamber). Then you need to check for SAG and feeling. If it's ok, leave it, but since the pressure will drop due to bigger volume, you'll need to put more air inside, cycle the shock more than 50% and check for SAG once again. Repeat this until you find your ideal pressure.

    One more thing, pretty important. Trek has special shocks for the Slash, 210x60,5mm (ETE x stroke). Early in the thread, I asked and someone else pointed that the shock's o-ring doesn't slide from the shock when it bottoms. This is cause of the shocks stroke which is 60,5mm, but the shocks shaft body is ~64mm long, so this last 3,5-4mm you don't get (it stops with a hit inside the shock body). And as someone wrote here, people were breaking their chainstays due this measurement. Therefor, for 20% SAG you shoud have 13mm of shocks SAG, 18mm for ~30%.

    As I said, I have a 2012 Slash 8 with DRCV RP2, pressure is round 215psi and I weight 190bs with gear. I get almost full travel and in some bigger drops I almost bottom out. So, the shock does a good job for now.

  76. #376
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    Thanks! Understand more about the shock. So it is normal to add 25 to 30 lbs on top of rider weight for right SAG. I will do some experiment to test the shock setting this weekend.

  77. #377
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    Add as much as it needs to get 20-35% SAG (depends how you like it and how the suspension feels; bottoming out is not a good thing). I think that I'm in 25% range with this 215psi.

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    Anyone tried a set of 27.5" wheels on their 2012 slash. I trial fitted a front 27.5" wheel and it looks like it will just fit with my Van 180's but need to find a rim with a 20mm axle as the one I trial fitted only had a 15mm axle.
    2012 Trek slash 8
    2008 Specialized Stumpy


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  79. #379
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    Trek slash

    I'm running 27.5 with 2.35 tires. Not with a fox fork though
    99% of the problems and questions posted here would be answered if people actually walked into a bicycle shop and asked

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    Quote Originally Posted by 69erEverything View Post
    I'm running 27.5 with 2.35 tires. Not with a fox fork though
    Can you post a pic of the rear tire clearance?

  81. #381
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    Trek slash

    Sure. Just under 1/2 inch clearance with schwalbe rock razor 2.35 27.5 tire
    99% of the problems and questions posted here would be answered if people actually walked into a bicycle shop and asked

  82. #382
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    Quote Originally Posted by piccirilli View Post
    - Unfortunately, there is no damping lockout (DB AIR CS will not fit on Slash). So as expected there is some bobbing while climbing seated. However, I was able to tune most of the bobbing out with the LSC and LSR adjustments. Not a deal breaker, because I'm not expecting my Slash to climb like my cross country bike.
    Why it doesn't fit?

  83. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by 69erEverything View Post
    Sure. Just under 1/2 inch clearance with schwalbe rock razor 2.35 27.5 tire

    What size frame do you have? Is the rear triangle the same size for all frame sizes?

  84. #384
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    Did anyone tried Slash in the bikepark with a dual crown fork? Any feelings and/or tips with this setup?


    Trek slash-p5pb9599351.jpg

  85. #385
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    That would be way sick to try a dual crown!!

  86. #386
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    As far as I remember from that PB's article (it was opening week of Whistler), the guy with dual crown'ed slash was intern @Trek..So normally I'd say this is crazy idea, if regular person like you&me doing this, but hey he's an intern, could get advise from Trek engineers?

    Again for my opinion, 200mm front, 160mm rear is weird!
    2012 Trek Slash 9
    2012 Trek Session 9.9

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    Not all FS bikes have equal travel front and back. For example Nukeproof Mega Trial has 150 front, 130 back. And of course some HT can have 160 front and 0 back.

    Don't get me wrong. Most probably it would be a rather unbalanced bike but it is doable.

  88. #388
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    just installed my push industries volume reducer in my drcv shock and i am very happy with the results. I have a 2012 slash 7 that i use for everything but mostly for park ridding. Im was always bottoming out at the park which forced me to run higher presures but not anymore. did not test it at the park yet but a 4 foot to flat jump in my back yard and did not bottom out running 25% sag made me happy. I highly recommend this product if you have a slash and ride park.

  89. #389
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    I came across a 2013 slash 8 for a pretty good price, but I am seeing everyone freak out over the 34 talas. Is it really that bad? should I get a 36? BTW I am about 150lbs with gear.

  90. #390
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    Quote Originally Posted by HENGST101 View Post
    just installed my push industries volume reducer in my drcv shock and i am very happy with the results. I have a 2012 slash 7 that i use for everything but mostly for park ridding. Im was always bottoming out at the park which forced me to run higher presures but not anymore. did not test it at the park yet but a 4 foot to flat jump in my back yard and did not bottom out running 25% sag made me happy. I highly recommend this product if you have a slash and ride park.
    Hi Hengst101,

    what were your previous settings (i.e. SAG) to not bottom out (without the volume reducers) ? Thinking of doing the same cause I found out that my SAG has to be 10-15% if I don't want to bottom the hell out of the Slash 8 2012.

  91. #391
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    about the same. to not bottom out i had to run about 1/4 inch of sag. now its about 9/16 wich gives me about 25%. i would buy the kit its worth the 30 bucks instead of a 600$ shock.

  92. #392
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    Thanks for the answer. Ordered it for a little more from TFTuned UK, but what can you do. Small price for huge performance gains.

    One more thing that bugs me with older Slash - creacking from the rear (I hope it's the rear) when you stomp hard on the pedals and pedal like hell. Really hope it's the hub (stock Bontrager Rhythm Comp). But except that, the bike has been running flawlessly almost a year (after first 2 months that were not so good ).



    Upgraded it with a Pike RC 160. All the stories regarding this fork were true. Amazing performance. And trying to find a rear tire that will wear before I kill the sidewall. So far, Bontrager XR Team Issue held for 3 months, then I tore the sidewall a little (sealant didn't close it). Then Continental Mountain King II 2.2 Protection was on for 4 months. Also, tear on the sidewall (smaller tear than XR4 but still didn't seal it, and the tire got a "bubble" on the teared place and can't be even used with inner tubes). Now, 3-4 rides on the Schwalbe Hans Dampf 2.35. If it doesn't hold, then its Maxxis turn

  93. #393
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    i went with the lyrik DH @ 170mm and like 2 months later the pike came out.... i think the lyrik will take more abuse but seems like pike damper is much better. I run minion DHF and DHR 2 on mine and have great traction. much better than the stock Bontrager

  94. #394
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    Has anybody tried mounting a water bottle holder on their Trek Slash frames?

    Something basic like this:
    Amazon.com : Avenir Alloy Water Bicycle Bottle Cage (Satin Ti) : Bike Water Bottle Cages : Sports & Outdoors

  95. #395
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    I put a lenyzne side loader on mine. Standard style doesn't work on my '12
    99% of the problems and questions posted here would be answered if people actually walked into a bicycle shop and asked

  96. #396
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    Trek slash-p4pb10813472.jpg


    Just put this thing together, it feels pretty nice and looks like something a storm trooper would ride.

  97. #397
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    Quote Originally Posted by 69erEverything View Post
    I put a lenyzne side loader on mine. Standard style doesn't work on my '12
    Do you have a pic?

  98. #398
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    I've also bought the push set which included two reducers. So far only tested the smaller of the two. Significant improvement, but will probably also try the larger hoping that i can reduce pressure and still avoid bottom out. Have you tested both?

  99. #399
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    yes. i use the 10ml. and the shock is the way i need it for big hits. very good product.

  100. #400
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoingOffRoading View Post
    Do you have a pic?
    Yeah. Fits smaller 16oz bottles but not 20oz

    Drilled holes in cage to attach hydraulic lines.

    99% of the problems and questions posted here would be answered if people actually walked into a bicycle shop and asked

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