Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 68
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    51

    New Build, Trek Top Fuel 9.9 SSL 2011

    Hey guys
    I'm just going to post a log of my new build, this is my second build & my first time was a long time ago and i slightly cheated and got a bike shop to do some of it. but i'm hoping to do this all myself.
    after "MONTHS" of waiting (10) and haggling i eventually got my frame ordered (crash replacement for a Top Fuel 98) and arrived the other day. see pictures below.

    as i said i'm new to this so i'm going to ask questions/advice along the way,

    below are a list of the components i'm looking to put with this.

    1. SRAM XX GXP Chainset 156 170mm 39.26
    2. SRAM XX Cassette 10sp 11-36
    3. SRAM XX World cup Carbon Mag Disc Brake Front & back 160mm with SRAM XX Mount Adaptor Front & Back IS 160mm
    4. SRAM XX Rear Derailleur Long Cage
    5. SRAM XX Trigger Shifter 10sp F&R Pair
    6. Avid XX Matchmakers (pair)
    7. SRAM 10sp PC1091R
    6. Rock Shox SID XX World Cup - Tapered Steerer 2011, 120mm travel

    i'm going to be using some old parts from my previous bike too that should be still ok
    like the
    1. Bontrager XXX Stem
    2. Bontrager XXX handle bar
    3. Crank Brothers Cobalt XC wheels

    my main worry is the wheels which i love will not go with the rest of the color scheme of the frame being that they are blue and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions like mods that incorporated the similar blue color, the likes of bolts cable housings, decals tires etc.

    new build
    new build
    new build
    new build
    new build
    new build
    new build
    new build
    new build
    new build



    Now the rest are the accessories that came with the frameset


    new build
    new build
    new build
    new build

    These i believe are the cable routing blocks for below the frame on the down tube if you chose not to go internal would i be correct saying this? (see last picture of the frame for where i mean)

    new build


    Now i was wondering if someone could tell me what these part where for exactly?? the 3 long plastic tubes and 1 very short tube and the 2 small peices to the right middle of the picture with a "V" indent and places for two screws
    I will highlight these parts if no-one can't tell which parts i'm talking about


    new build

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Evo.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    620
    Should be an awesome build, the frame looks sick!

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    56
    Sweet looking frame. If I had the money a carbon XC FS bike thats the frame I would buy in an heart beat with a C-dale scalpel at a far distant second.

    As far as incorporating your CB wheels you could always go with some Blue grips, blue brake and shifter cables (but with the internal routing of the 2011 frame you won't see much of these), or a seat with some blue accents. Last year you could make some of the higher end Fizik seats with colors of your choice. When I bought my gobi Xm carbon they stopped doing that. So I have a black and yellow seat. I wanted a black and red or white and red.

    Also as far as matching color schemes what ever you end up choose will rock since its "your" bike. Don't spend too much time fretting over the color scheme and get that thing built!

    Also keep up with pics its Bike porn for the rest of us.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    51
    Thanks
    i was thinking thinking cables but like you said with the internal routing now it might now be worth while.
    But i will look into the grips and maybe a saddle, i think i will build it up see how she looks and then work from there.

    I rang Chainreactioncycles today to place my order for my parts and two things happened...
    1. The sale guys was not sure that they could honor my 10% loyalty discount that i got in Nov/Dec 2010 that they said i could use in the new year. he has to check with his manager. i'm not impressed with that.

    2. he asked a question i was not expecting and didn't think about before and that was, what was the "maxle" size of you wheels for the fork??
    I honestly must have been under a rock to have missed these new additions
    now apparently he was saying the XX Sid World Cup comes with a 15mm Maxle but my wheels i know now are just 9mm quick release.
    Surly Rockshox have a 9mm version of there high end fork?
    anyway worst case scenario i get new wheels

    I will post pictures of all new additions as i get them, surprisingly not many pictures of this frame/bike going around the net for comparisons

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    51
    I think the first thing to add to the Frame has got to be the protection.
    there is nothing worse than that first chip or scratch so i'm going to do all i can to minimize them.
    so i got the Full Top Fuel protection kit from Frameskin.com (also got the kits for the XX Cranks and Sid Fork)

    frameskin top fuel

    frameskin topfuel

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    51
    These are the wheel i'm hoping to add Fork allowing

    Wheels 1

    wheels 2

    wheels 3

    wheels 4

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    56
    The SID XX 120 mm is a 15mm, while the 100mm is standard 9mm quick release. SO yes RS does make a 9mm quick release shock but it would be the 100m version. Hope this helps.

    PS is the 9.9 ssl geo made for a 100mm, 120mm, or do they say either is okay?

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    56
    just checked you can get both 15mm and 9mm version from the 120 travel SID. However you can only get the 9mm for the 100mm travel sid.

    Hope this helps.

    http://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/sid-xx-world-cup

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    51
    Thanks Kumarpr
    for the ssl geo.. to be honest i'm not sure, but I've just dropped an email off to trek to see if there would be any problems.
    regards the axle I've spent all day stressing about how to resolve the problem as i want that particular fork and keep my wheels.
    I spoke with a rep from Fisheroutdoor.co.uk SRAM distributors for the UK. and they told me i would not be able to get a 9mm axle version of the fork even though the official SRAM website says you can. they also said that SRAMused to do a converter for the forks to down convert the 15mm to 9mm, but that can not be gotten any more
    but alas more searching and i think I've come up with my solution

    http://www.rutlandcycling.com/28698/...R-Adapter.html
    http://www.crankbrothers.com/support...structions.pdf

    Hopefully this is the end of my axle worries (dropped a little email to CB to make sure)

  10. #10
    Big Gulps, Alright!
    Reputation: Berkley's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    3,219
    Travis Brown rode a 120mm fork-equipped Top Fuel at Leadville, so it should be OK.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    51
    This is the response i got from Trek when i asked about the 120mm fork
    "Thank you for your enquiry.

    Incorporating a 120mm fork will change the head angle to a slacker angle which would affect the handling."
    Sorry excuse my ignorance but what exactly is"Slacker Angle"? and how does it effect exactly?

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    56
    Lets look at the two extremes. Race bikes like Top Fuel and Downhill bikes like the Session.

    Race bikes normally have about 70 degree and Downhill bikes normally have about 64 give or take.

    You might not think that 6 degrees would make a difference but it does.

    So a larger head angle like race bikes means that the front wheel is closer to being perpendicular to the bike and road. This will make going uphill much faster and easier.

    A smaller head angle like downhill bikes means that going down hill will be more stable.

    Also if you take your handler bars and draw an imaginary perpendicular line from your grips to the ground. Then you see the distance from your front wheel axle to the this line. The greater the difference means the more stable you will be going down hill. If you look at DH bikes the handlebars are noticeable way behind the front axle.

    On the other side the shorter the distance between your grips and the front axle means your up hill climbs will be much easier since your body weight will be over the front wheel. When you go DH you will need to put your weight behind the seat or you will have the feeling of going over the handlebars.

    The last thing to mention about going with a fork not designed with your frame geo is the BB hight. With an extra 20mm your BB will be a little higher. Some say that 20mm isn't that big of a deal and others say it makes the bike feel way to weird. That is up to you to decide.

    last thing, since your bike is warranty claim does your replacement frame also has a warranty with it? If so some frame man. say the warranty is void if you use a wrong size fork. I wanted to use a lefty with my 8500 but the dual crown would have voided the warranty so I passed and got a fox.

    Hope this helps.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    90
    These i believe are the cable routing blocks for below the frame on the down tube if you chose not to go internal would i be correct saying this? (see last picture of the frame for where i mean

    You are correct. Personally I would route everything internally, which I did on mine. Just be sure to leave enough slack from where the housing exits the frame and is first zip tied to the chain stay to allow for full travel of the suspension.

    Now i was wondering if someone could tell me what these part where for exactly?? the 3 long plastic tubes and 1 very short tube and the 2 small peices to the right middle of the picture with a "V" indent and places for two screws
    I will highlight these parts if no-one can't tell which parts i'm talking about


    The 3 plastic tubes are for the three entrance holes in the head tube for the internal routing of your front der. cable, rear der. cable, and rear shock lock out, to be sure the cables don't rub on anything when they first enter the frame. (Again, be sure to allow for bottom out of suspension with the rear der. cable housing and the rear shock lock out housing). The small "V" indent plates are for holding your hydraulic hose line in place when routed internally. The hydraulic hose will enter on the non-drive side of the head tube and exit through that metal plate along with the rear der. housing under the BB. On the side of the head tube you will find two holes that will fit two of the counter sink bolts, pass those through, place a "V" plate inside the frame and begin to thread the bolts onto the "V" plate. The other "V" plate will attach in the same manner to the BB plate that the brake hose and rear der. housing exit the frame through.

    You may want to play around with varying lengths of cable housing when you set up the front end of the bike. Since the housings will be shorter, more in number, and with three on one side, they can affect the steering a little bit.

    Hope that helps and have fun with the new frame!

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    90
    If you haven't purchased your fork yet, you may want to consider the Fox FIT Remote or Reba if you can get it with a tapered steerer (I didn't see that option on their website for a 26" wheel, but I also didn't look super hard). The Fox doesn't quite have the small bump sensitivity of the current gen SIDs, but much stiffer laterally and a lot more room for larger tires.

    I ran the current gen SID on my 2009 Top Fuel 9.9 and found that on deep compressions of the fork I would buzz the inside of the brake arch with a Nevegal 2.1. Not a huge tire (nor a small one) but I couldn't run a large volume tire for sandy courses/trails.

    Of course if you are a smaller rider than me, the SID may suit you just fine, or if you prefer to run narrow tires (2.0 and under). I am 6 feet tall and 165 lbs. (on a 19.5 2011 Top Fuel). So figure a few more pounds of gear, I pack pretty light, bottles and jersey pockets to carry everything, and you get an idea of what the fork had to deal with.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    51
    Thanks Kumarpr
    Great explination. I checked with Trek and they said it would not be a problem with the warranty

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    51
    Thanks addtd2adrnine
    just messing around with the V plates at the moment to see what you mean and i can tell these are going to be very arkward to inside inside the frame haha. how did you find doing it?
    i'll make sure to leave plenty of lenght on the cables for movement.
    2 last question for you if you don't mind...

    The thick solid tube with the wedge on the ejnd i take it this is to plug the brake cable hole by the BB if you chose not to go internal?

    The smallest tube which cable entry/exit hole should this be used on?

    I would be running 2.0 or smaller tyres on the bike so rub should not be a problem for me & this will be my third Sid World cup fork and i have to say i'm a big fan.

    my parts should hopefully start arrving on monday with my brakes a week or so later they are on back order until mid april and from messing around with the V Plates i'm guessing i can't do diddly with my BB/cranks or headset/fork until the brake cable is in and bolted down?

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    51
    I had some new parts arrive.
    Crank
    Fork
    Front & Rear Derailleurs
    Triggers
    seat post collar
    Grips
    9mm QR to 15mm front wheel axle converter

    The XX brakes from the Groupset arrived too but i'm selling these on eBay (Item No: 200596001922) and the XX World cup brakes & Cassette should be here next week

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    51

    Crank Brothers Cobalt 15mm True Axle Adapter Kit

    Photobucket
    Photobucket

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    51

    Crank Brothers Split QR Seat Collar

    I'm trying to blend in the blue from the wheel to the rest of the bike

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    51

    Crank Brothers Cobalt Grips

    and the last bit of blue for now

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    51

    2011 Rockshox Sid XX World Cup fork 120mm Travel Tapered 15mm True Axle

    Photobucket
    Photobucket
    Photobucket
    Photobucket
    Photobucket
    Photobucket
    Photobucket
    Photobucket
    Photobucket
    Photobucket
    Photobucket

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    51

    Sram XX Crankset GXP 156q 175mm 42t x 28t

    Photobucket
    Photobucket
    Photobucket
    Photobucket

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    51

    Sram XX Triggers

    Photobucket
    Photobucket

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    51

    Sram xx Rear Derailleur long cage

    Photobucket
    Photobucket

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    51

    Sram XX Front Derailleur High Clamp, Top Pull 38.2

    Photobucket
    Photobucket

Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •