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  1. #1
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    My Fuel is creaking

    I've checked chainring bolts, BB, seat post,pedals, and just realized this is the start of my 3rd season ridingthis bike:. How hard of a job is it to change bearings and how important is it to use torque wrench instead of retightening to feel when putting rocker and new bearings back together?

  2. #2
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    I had a creak in my fuel , it turned out to be something so simple.
    Does it do it with you on the bike only?
    can you dulicate it without your feet being on the pedals?
    take out the cable housings and clean the ferrule (spelling?0 where they go into. Sand or dirt in this area will make the bike creak and the sound gets amplified for some odd reason.

    Good luck.

  3. #3
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    3 seasons and its not been serviced? Are the bearings loose or just making noise? Hold the bike up by the seat post and try to move the rear tire and suspension just with your hands. Is it loose? Probably should just take it to a dealer.

    I would always use a torque wrench on these types of things because you don't want to strip any threads or under tighten.

  4. #4
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    Dunno how much this will help, but when you mentioned checking seatpost, did you mean just to see if it was tight ? Fuels, at least earlier models, were rather known for a seattube "creak" , caused by the freakish 3 peice design of the seattube in the pivot area. .......here's a possible solution (if it is indeed the seattube issue) - remove seatpost, squirt a generous amount of lube down the sides of the tube, covering all 360*.... let this run down towards bb for a couple minutes, and then invert bike so lube will run back towards seatpost collar.... after a few more minutes, return bike to normal position, reinstall seatpost/seat, and check to see if creak is gone.
    This issue has been the only "creak" I've ever heard from my Fuel, have done this procedure maybe 5 times over 6 years, has worked so far... If you take a close look at the pivot/seattube design, you might get an idea of the freakish design (kinda cobbled together Franenbike-ish ) Of course, am basing this on my old Fuel design (and creak) .... dunno how applicable this might be to later models (if they've redesigned them in a positive way, whatever...) Anyway, hope this might be of help to someone, and enjoy yer Fuel - it's an awesome xc ride.

  5. #5
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    Fuelish,

    What model years are you referring to? Just curious bro. I have a 2006 that so far (knock on wood) has had no issues whatsoever.
    Tom G.
    Long Island, NY

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by tg3895
    Fuelish,

    What model years are you referring to? Just curious bro. I have a 2006 that so far (knock on wood) has had no issues whatsoever.
    tg .... dunno how long Trek has spec'ed the original design of the whole seattube/pivot contraption, but mine's an '01, aluminum frame. There have been more than a few frame failures in this general area, perhaps they did address the issue with a re-design in later years, but I don't know (1, beings as mine is original release, and 2, my now LBS doesn't stock higher end Treks..... which is wierd, as they stock high end Cannondales and Fishers.....go figure) Mine's still alive and kicking and still not broken (knocking on wood as well ) There have been some old posts here about the dreaded seattube creak, as well as posts about folks' frames failing in the same general area. Related, perhaps, but ... taking the seatpost out and tossing lube down there seems to quell the creak, if that is indeed the source. As far as the frames failing in that area, I had e-mailed Trek at one point with my concerns, and they responded that it seemed to be happening to people running their posts too high (not enough post left in the seattube, causing stress). Who knows ? Not an issue here, as I'm relatively short on a medium frame (small was too small for comfort) and haven't cut my post nor raise it extremely high....so far so good.
    Good luck with yours, I'm sure (hopefully) Trek did something to the design between the time they released the first Fuels and the time your '06 came out. I love mine still, and... Trek warranty, although perhaps not particularly fast, is likely one of the best available in the mtb industry.

  7. #7
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    I had a bad creak on load.

    It was the main pivot. I guess the bushings had worn a bit and caused looseness so I un-screwed it, cleaned the area and torqued to specs and now the creak is totally gone.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the comments. I replaced the old bushings and it was'nt as big of a job as I thought it might be. Now its a lot more quiet, except for a new creaking, that sounds like it's coming from higher up, the seatpost did't creak before but maybe the new creak is coming from a different pivot other than the main which is where I think the original noise was coming from. The frame is an 04 Fuel 100

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dickeydoo
    Thanks for the comments. I replaced the old bushings and it was'nt as big of a job as I thought it might be. Now its a lot more quiet, except for a new creaking, that sounds like it's coming from higher up, the seatpost did't creak before but maybe the new creak is coming from a different pivot other than the main which is where I think the original noise was coming from. The frame is an 04 Fuel 100
    That's a carbon frame on the 100, correct? I doubt it's the seat post then but it's worth checking. Also check your seat rails, and water bottle cage. Might also check the rear skewer as that can send a resonating creak through the chain stays. There's always the BB threads of course.

    I have a set of bushings on order myself.

    When you replaced your bushings, did you have trouble getting the bushings out? I thought they were cemented on with green loctite.

    Did you use loctite on the new bushings?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thought Criminal 9
    T
    When you replaced your bushings, did you have trouble getting the bushings out? I thought they were cemented on with green loctite.
    I've done mine before - it's not too hard to carefully tap them out, and yeah, they're supposed to be loctited in place (green loctite, the exact # I can't remember, offhand .... I have scanned tech directions from Trek customer service, with a great schematic from another forum member, somewhere on my comp..... loctite number (I know it's green) and torque figures are there, I'd just have to locate them

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuelish
    I've done mine before - it's not too hard to carefully tap them out, and yeah, they're supposed to be loctited in place (green loctite, the exact # I can't remember, offhand .... I have scanned tech directions from Trek customer service, with a great schematic from another forum member, somewhere on my comp..... loctite number (I know it's green) and torque figures are there, I'd just have to locate them
    Thanks. If you're able to find them, let us know.

  12. #12
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    Hi, great post!! Dont mean to steal it but I'm going through the same problem with the same bike model (04 Fuel 100) I've recently upgraded the whole thing from M960 XTR to the new 970 with the disc brakes and thought I had screwed up my crank somehow. Looks like it's just a coincidence. Any info on the bushing kit# you ordered and those torque specs would be great. Heading back to the garage now to check my bushings Oh yeah, to make sure it's not your seat post...I put my front wheel up against the wall and applied pressure to the pedal to make the noise. It's incredible how much that carbon frame bends!!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuelish
    tg .... dunno how long Trek has spec'ed the original design of the whole seattube/pivot contraption, but mine's an '01, aluminum frame. There have been more than a few frame failures in this general area, perhaps they did address the issue with a re-design in later years, but I don't know (1, beings as mine is original release, and 2, my now LBS doesn't stock higher end Treks..... which is wierd, as they stock high end Cannondales and Fishers.....go figure) Mine's still alive and kicking and still not broken (knocking on wood as well ) There have been some old posts here about the dreaded seattube creak, as well as posts about folks' frames failing in the same general area. Related, perhaps, but ... taking the seatpost out and tossing lube down there seems to quell the creak, if that is indeed the source. As far as the frames failing in that area, I had e-mailed Trek at one point with my concerns, and they responded that it seemed to be happening to people running their posts too high (not enough post left in the seattube, causing stress). Who knows ? Not an issue here, as I'm relatively short on a medium frame (small was too small for comfort) and haven't cut my post nor raise it extremely high....so far so good.
    Good luck with yours, I'm sure (hopefully) Trek did something to the design between the time they released the first Fuels and the time your '06 came out. I love mine still, and... Trek warranty, although perhaps not particularly fast, is likely one of the best available in the mtb industry.
    Hey Fuelish,

    Thanks for the answer bro!! I definitely agree on the warranty.
    Tom G.
    Long Island, NY

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by tg3895
    Hey Fuelish,

    Thanks for the answer bro!! I definitely agree on the warranty.
    No prob.....but, LOL@myself - I just now realized you were referring to a Fuel EX, as opposed to regular Fuel ... heh. I have yet to closely look at an EX, so dunno how similar the seattube design is, so...... the original Fuels (at least early model years in aluminium) had a funky 3 piece tube welded together ending up with a sleeve of sorts inside which tended to creak from time to time - overly complicated design, for a darned seattube, if ya ask me). LOL@myself as well, now seeing that the op's Fuel is a carbon frame, soooooooo....I wouldn't think the creaking 3 piece seattube theory would apply to his frame, either. Oh, well ..... I tried

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