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  1. #1
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    DIY Trek Remedy 10-11 DRCV Coil conversion

    The DRCV shock on the Trek Remedy is fantastic. It's the closest air shock to a coil I've ridden. It is head and shoulders above any air can that I have ever ridden. It's still not a coil though. I've found that if you set it up stiff enough to handle big drops, dirt jumps and fast aggressive riding it is chatter on the small stuff. Sketchy. If you set it to 35% sag it wallows and bottoms out excessively. It seems like there was not a happy medium.

    Being a big fan of coil and oil suspension I set out to convert my remedy to a coil rear shock. I even talked to a couple of custom shock builders and no one had a solution. Trek has 10mm bearings for the drcv shock so it's not just a bolt it on and go endeavor. To my knowledge no one has done this conversion on a 2010-2011 to date. This is my journey through the conversion. I imagine it would also be possible to convert any standard air can using similar parts to a DRCV as they sell them now to the public.

    There are two different ways to do this. One is with a reducer and the other is with The RWC needle bearing kit. I did this the hard way first. With needle bearings top and bottom. What I found was that there was two much play in the double needle bearing kit top and bottom. There are bearing in the top anyway, so there was no need for the needle bearing kit up top.

    Parts List

    NEEDLE BEARING CONVERSION KIT 39.88mm part number NBKRWC3988. This kit fits the top and bottom shock mounts


    ENDUROģ MAX FULL-COMPLEMENT BEARINGS part number 608 2RS MAX 8mm x 22mm x 7mm. These bearings will convert the 10mm bearing to 8mm.


    Fox Rear Shock Hardware Kits part number 803-03-046


    Homemade press

    Step 1

    Remove the cranks, you will need to get to the bottom pivot.

    Step 2

    Loosen the bottom pivot. The bottom shock mount is under pressure from the main pivot.

    Step 3
    Remove the top and bottom shock bolts and remove.

    Step 4

    Press the bearings 10mm bearing from the outside in. You can use a socket. I used an old stem spacer.

    Step 5

    Press the new 8mm bearings from the outside in. If you don't the you could have the bolt you are using for a press stuck in between the bearings. (Don't ask)

    Step 6
    Bolt the shock up. You will need two 1mm shims for the top. You can get those from a local hardware store.
    Do not tighten. The main pivot should be torqued down first.
    Main pivot 300 inch pounds
    Lower shock mount 85 inch pounds
    Upper shock mount 150 inch pounds

    Done.

    More pictures




    This is when I had it built with needle bearings on the top and bottom. I found it had some play in it. That is when I decided to go with the reducers on the top.



    There are still bearing up there. There is not a single hint of restriction


    Bottom mount with the RCW needle bearing kit. I would highly recommend getting this kit. The main bearing on all the trek FS are so tight that the shock wasn't even moving in the DU bushings. There was huge restriction in that bottom mount, so much so that it was shearing the paint. Basically built in low speed compression.



    Suspension settings.
    I weight 190lb and like a pretty firm setup. I went with a 500lb coil and run about 28% sag. I also tried a 450lb coil and ran about 30% with it. I preferred the 28% sag much better. It is all down to personal preference though. These are the settings I liked for both. I started at the trek recommendations for the scratch, and then tweaked them from there.
    190lb
    450lb coil, 1.5 turns of preload. rebound 8 clicks out, lsc 6 clicks out
    500lb coil, .5 turns of preload, rebound 7 clicks out, lsc 7 clicks out

    My problem with the rear was that it seemed to get overwhelmed in really rough fast terrain. I love this bike, and the coil has made it even better. I don't notice the weight at all. It pedals amazing, I actually prefer it over the air. I still have that stiff pedaling platform that stays high in it's travel how I liked the air setup, but now the small bump compliance is amazing. A huge upgrade. It rips

    I can go out with my XC buddies and hang with them on the climbs, hit dirt jumps without slamming the bump stops, and the next day go keep up with all the dh guys with their sleds. It does it all.

    Can't wait for an MX Tune from Push.
    Last edited by dhalsey; 06-24-2011 at 07:30 PM.

  2. #2
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    Thanks for posting the awesome write up. What model is the new shock? I recently replaced my EX8's rear shock with another one after the seal around the air valve blew out. If it happens again I might try something like this.

  4. #4
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    It's a 2011 fox van rc. As soon as push gets its mx tunes done I'm getting pushed. It really did completely change the bike. 28 percent sag is perfect for the coil.

    Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    Did this conversion a few months ago. I didn't remove the lower pivot just sized the lower reducer for 0 preload ?


  6. #6
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    Was there a lot of binding in that lower pivot on your bike ?

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhalsey View Post
    Can't wait for an MX Tune from Push.
    Wow, good work. Seems like a lot of work to put a coil on a Trek though

    I got the MX tune for my DHX 5 coil, and it's just amazing! Rides like a dream and PUSH even tuned out the pedal feedback in the granny ring on my Nomad!

  8. #8
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    Thanks it went pretty fast once I had the parts. Even without it push it to me to huge difference. I can't wait till the mx tunes are ready.

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhalsey View Post
    Thanks it went pretty fast once I had the parts. Even without it push it to me to huge difference. I can't wait till the mx tunes are ready.

    Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
    Damn, PUSH is out of stock on the MX tune. I know PUSH uses avalanche parts for the MX tune. Perhaps Avy is another place to consider?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhalsey View Post
    Was there a lot of binding in that lower pivot on your bike ?

    Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
    {QUOTE} Loosen the bottom pivot. The bottom shock mount is under pressure from the main pivot.

    I did not have to loosen the bottom pivot on my bike to remove the shock. I did have to size the shock reducers because the Cane Creek's were a bit too long. I would think any fitiment of the reducers other than 0 preload would put tension on the lower chainstay bearings.

  11. #11
    Nightmare on Lyrik st. VI
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    dhalsey & keen

    What shock length are you guys using? I'd guess 7.785"x2.25". Is that right?
    Quote Originally Posted by TNC to whining spammer
    Don't let the nose of your saddle hit you in the @#!#X on the way out.

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    I was thinking about converting my fuel ex8 with the new Cane Creek Double Barrel Air, but the air can is so big, I'm not sure it would fit.

  13. #13
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    Anybody know if this mod will also work on a Rumblefish?
    Dirtbag since '89

  14. #14
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    I am wondering what the spec on this shock is? I am looking to switch my trek fuel ex 9

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    Hey guys,
    This is my first post on the forum and I wanted to thank the thread starter (dhalsey), great work and great write-up! I bought a brand new leftover 2011 Remedy 8 from LBS for cheap money and then proceeded to pretty much upgrade everything (except for the seat, seat post, and rear shock). At first I thought the DRCV shock would be great, given the reviews its a very decent air shock. However after a few weeks of riding at Highland Mountain Bike Park I've been unable to find a decent balance between sag and excessive bottoming out.
    Because I've already spent to much money on the bike I wanted to get a decent used coil shock, fortunately I just picked up an Elka Stage 5 shock in very good condition for little money. I bought the shock before coming across this thread and was sure I'd have to machine special mounts, at least for the upper mount. Thankfully I came across this thread which is a huge help, now I can't wait to get this shock and parts needed so I can get it installed! I'm especially excited to get rid of the tight tolerances in the lower shock mount, like dhalsey the stock lower mount on my Remedy was very tight (even though the lower main pivot was torqued correctly). Even with the upper mount removed it was very difficult to pivot the air shock on the lower mount.
    Not that anyone will care but I'll post back in the next week or so with photo's and my own experience with the conversion from air to coil. Again I can't thank dhalsey enough, this is really a huge help and beats either machining special mounts or trying to make it work with off the shelf hardware store parts!

  16. #16
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    Awesome glad you liked it. Make sure you post up pictures. I'm interested to hear the results of the elka.

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    Unfortunately I'm not able to send private messages yet dhalsey but I was hoping you could help me out. I was able to order all the parts I need to convert my Remedy 8 to run a coil shock except for the Fox reducers (part # 803-03-046), I ordered them from CambriaBike but they won't get delivered until next week (but I want to ride this weekend)!

    With that said you mentioned in your article that you initially ran the RWC Needle Bearing kit on both the upper and lower mounts but had issues with excessive play which is why you ended up going with the Fox reducers on the upper mount. I'm curious how it was possible to run the RWC Needle Bearing kit on both the upper and lower mounts considering each mount has a different face to face width (the lower mount is 39.88mm and the upper mount is about 48mm give or take)?

    I couldn't tell from the photo you posted (when the bike was running the RWC on top and bottom) how you made the 39.88mm needle bearing kit fit into the 48mm wide upper mount? I'm asking about all this because until my Fox Reducers arrive I'm just going to run the stock Fox reducers (that I pulled out of the stock DRCV shock) in the lower mount and use the RWC Needle Bearing kit in the upper mount along with the RWC Max bearings which will reduce the bolt size down to 8mm. Thank you very much for taking the time to read this and for sharing your experience!

  18. #18
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    I used the original drcv spacers that came with the rear shock originally on the bike I think I had to add spacers as well. get it on there annual find you might not need any spacers at all

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    As stupid as it sounds I didn't even think about that until you mentioned it. So I just went down and measured the width of the stock DRCV shock (without the spacers), its 39mm-40mm. Once you add in the spacers its the same exact width as the upper mount, good thinking! Assuming the parts arrive before Friday I'll be up and running this weekend! Thanks again for your prompt reply and help!

  20. #20
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    I'm trying to figure out could I install the Cane Creek DB coil to my 2011 Remedy and replace the DrCV shock. Fitting the shock will be very tight, if possible at all and the 10mm bolt at the top with press fit bearings complete the challenge, will have to think about the 8mm bolt to both ends.

    Dhalsey: how much clearance do you have at your bike between the seat tube and coil and what year your frame is? Could you upload a picture that shows the clearance?

  21. #21
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    I stumbled on this page (like many others I'm sure) after searching for a way to replace the rp23 on my 2010 remedy with a coil. I'm over in the UK and wondered if anyone reading this has any knowledge on where I can source the required parts from?

    Also, are there any photos of the process? It just says "more photos" in the original post so I'm guessing there were photos once upon a time. If I could see them it would probably give me a lot more confidence to do this myself!

    Thanks very much.

  22. #22
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    Ok. I feel a bit stupid now as the photos are working. I guess it must only be visible to registered users. Now I just need to find somewhere in the UK that can supply the parts.

    Thanks again for the original write up.

  23. #23
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    Hi there unclesomebody,
    Like the original thread starter I also just converted my 2011 Remedy to a coil shock. Unfortunately I don't know of any other supplier that makes a needle bearing kit for mountain bike besides RWC (let alone specifically for the Remedy). With that said RWC (Real World Cycling) does ship outside the US and actually has very reasonable shipping prices and quick shipping times.
    Before actually buying the needle bearing kit from RWC I simply used stock Fox Racing reducers (bushings) to mount the coil shock and it worked just fine (the only drawback was the tight lower mount but this could be fixed by simply filling down each end of the bushing until there was limited friction).
    So basically I just pulled the lower bushings from the stock DRCV Fox shock and installed them into my 7.875" x 2.25" Elka Stage 5 coil shock (fortunately for me the Elka Stage 5 shock has the same dimension eyelets as the Fox Racing shock) so the bushings fit perfectly. That took care of the lower mount, although its not as good as the needle bearing kit it works just as good as the stock setup.
    The upper mount was a bit more work but after installing the RWC Max Enduro bearings the job was much easier (the new bearings have an 8mm opening which matches that of the stock Fox reducers that I had). These bearings can be purchased at RWC.
    I was unable to find the proper size Fox reducers that the thread starter used (45.72mm in length with an 8mm diameter opening) so I made due with the 35.56mm x 8mm reducer that came with the shock I bought (I bought the shock used from Pinkbike and the seller gave me his mounting hardware from his Rune). I then went to multiple local hardware stores and found what they called (Heavy Duty Steel Bushings), they were found in the traditional hardware store "nuts and bolts" section. They only came fractional sizes so I grabbed an 8mm bolt and found the bushings that fit best with the least amount of "play" (can't remember exactly what size this was but probably 11/32"). Basically I was buying these bushings to mount between the shorter stock Fox reducer I had (from the seller of the shock) and the Trek Evo Link.
    While there I also bought a couple stainless steel 8mm bolts, (8mm x 60mm 1.25 threads and 8mm x 65mm 1.25 threads), of course I also bought a stainless 8mm x 1.25mm nut (non nylon locking threads - just used blue locktite). This bolt would mount through the Evo Link, through the bushings, then through the stock Fox reducers, and out the other side holding the upper mount together.
    I realize this all sounds very complicated (especially without pictures) but once it was done it worked perfectly. Even though it worked great I now have the lower needle bearing kit installed which allows the rear-triangle to travel with much less friction than stock. If you want let me know your e-mail address and I'll send you a bunch of photos I took during the conversion, it might make the write up much easier to understand. Good luck and keep us posted on your conversion!

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by TerminusAvid View Post
    Hi there unclesomebody,
    Like the original thread starter I also just converted my 2011 Remedy to a coil shock. Unfortunately I don't know of any other supplier that makes a needle bearing kit for mountain bike besides RWC (let alone specifically for the Remedy). With that said RWC (Real World Cycling) does ship outside the US and actually has very reasonable shipping prices and quick shipping times.
    Before actually buying the needle bearing kit from RWC I simply used stock Fox Racing reducers (bushings) to mount the coil shock and it worked just fine (the only drawback was the tight lower mount but this could be fixed by simply filling down each end of the bushing until there was limited friction).
    So basically I just pulled the lower bushings from the stock DRCV Fox shock and installed them into my 7.875" x 2.25" Elka Stage 5 coil shock (fortunately for me the Elka Stage 5 shock has the same dimension eyelets as the Fox Racing shock) so the bushings fit perfectly. That took care of the lower mount, although its not as good as the needle bearing kit it works just as good as the stock setup.
    The upper mount was a bit more work but after installing the RWC Max Enduro bearings the job was much easier (the new bearings have an 8mm opening which matches that of the stock Fox reducers that I had). These bearings can be purchased at RWC.
    I was unable to find the proper size Fox reducers that the thread starter used (45.72mm in length with an 8mm diameter opening) so I made due with the 35.56mm x 8mm reducer that came with the shock I bought (I bought the shock used from Pinkbike and the seller gave me his mounting hardware from his Rune). I then went to multiple local hardware stores and found what they called (Heavy Duty Steel Bushings), they were found in the traditional hardware store "nuts and bolts" section. They only came fractional sizes so I grabbed an 8mm bolt and found the bushings that fit best with the least amount of "play" (can't remember exactly what size this was but probably 11/32"). Basically I was buying these bushings to mount between the shorter stock Fox reducer I had (from the seller of the shock) and the Trek Evo Link.
    While there I also bought a couple stainless steel 8mm bolts, (8mm x 60mm 1.25 threads and 8mm x 65mm 1.25 threads), of course I also bought a stainless 8mm x 1.25mm nut (non nylon locking threads - just used blue locktite). This bolt would mount through the Evo Link, through the bushings, then through the stock Fox reducers, and out the other side holding the upper mount together.
    I realize this all sounds very complicated (especially without pictures) but once it was done it worked perfectly. Even though it worked great I now have the lower needle bearing kit installed which allows the rear-triangle to travel with much less friction than stock. If you want let me know your e-mail address and I'll send you a bunch of photos I took during the conversion, it might make the write up much easier to understand. Good luck and keep us posted on your conversion!
    How do you like the elka on the remedy?

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by TerminusAvid View Post
    Hi there unclesomebody,
    Like the original thread starter I also just converted my 2011 Remedy to a coil shock. Unfortunately I don't know of any other supplier that makes a needle bearing kit for mountain bike besides RWC (let alone specifically for the Remedy). With that said RWC (Real World Cycling) does ship outside the US and actually has very reasonable shipping prices and quick shipping times.
    Before actually buying the needle bearing kit from RWC I simply used stock Fox Racing reducers (bushings) to mount the coil shock and it worked just fine (the only drawback was the tight lower mount but this could be fixed by simply filling down each end of the bushing until there was limited friction).
    So basically I just pulled the lower bushings from the stock DRCV Fox shock and installed them into my 7.875" x 2.25" Elka Stage 5 coil shock (fortunately for me the Elka Stage 5 shock has the same dimension eyelets as the Fox Racing shock) so the bushings fit perfectly. That took care of the lower mount, although its not as good as the needle bearing kit it works just as good as the stock setup.
    The upper mount was a bit more work but after installing the RWC Max Enduro bearings the job was much easier (the new bearings have an 8mm opening which matches that of the stock Fox reducers that I had). These bearings can be purchased at RWC.
    I was unable to find the proper size Fox reducers that the thread starter used (45.72mm in length with an 8mm diameter opening) so I made due with the 35.56mm x 8mm reducer that came with the shock I bought (I bought the shock used from Pinkbike and the seller gave me his mounting hardware from his Rune). I then went to multiple local hardware stores and found what they called (Heavy Duty Steel Bushings), they were found in the traditional hardware store "nuts and bolts" section. They only came fractional sizes so I grabbed an 8mm bolt and found the bushings that fit best with the least amount of "play" (can't remember exactly what size this was but probably 11/32"). Basically I was buying these bushings to mount between the shorter stock Fox reducer I had (from the seller of the shock) and the Trek Evo Link.
    While there I also bought a couple stainless steel 8mm bolts, (8mm x 60mm 1.25 threads and 8mm x 65mm 1.25 threads), of course I also bought a stainless 8mm x 1.25mm nut (non nylon locking threads - just used blue locktite). This bolt would mount through the Evo Link, through the bushings, then through the stock Fox reducers, and out the other side holding the upper mount together.
    I realize this all sounds very complicated (especially without pictures) but once it was done it worked perfectly. Even though it worked great I now have the lower needle bearing kit installed which allows the rear-triangle to travel with much less friction than stock. If you want let me know your e-mail address and I'll send you a bunch of photos I took during the conversion, it might make the write up much easier to understand. Good luck and keep us posted on your conversion!
    Terminus, thanks for the detailed reply. Very much appreciated! If you can email some pics to [my username]@gmail.com that would be really helpful. I'm fairly comfortable doing this stuff as long as I know roughly what I'm doing. It gives me some confidence that you guys have done it so I'm hoping I don't go too far wrong. I'll see what international shipping prices look like from RWC but my experience tells me that they are always far more than actual cost. I won't be stateside until September and definitely can't wait that long!

    In terms of what shock to run on the remedy, I've been recommended a van R. What are the other options? Is it just personal preference? I'll see what second hand options I can find in pinkbike.

    Thanks again.

  26. #26
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    The difference was like night and day and once I started to get the Elka dialed in a bit things got even better. Granted this could have to do with my old DRCV not being probably setup or not being properly broken in but the Elka just felt much better! Although the DRCV is very linear for an air shock it just doesn't compare to the coil, I felt far more in control no matter where the rear-end was in the travel. This all helped me to feel far more confident on the bike and certainly helped me increase my in-control speeds on the trails. Last but not least, when running the DRCV I had difficulty with excessive bottoming out even with a minimal SAG setting - now I can run 25%-33% SAG and only occasionally bottom out on harsh hits. When measured side by side the Elka obviously weighs considerably more but I truly don't notice it at all when riding (probably because I mostly ride DH type trails) but even when just pedaling around its negligible.

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    The good news is that I've acquired a Van RC! A very friendly local bike mechanic was really keen to do it for me and has the parts to do it (except the needle bearing - I'm wondering if there is an alternative) so I'm going to hand it over to him and let him work his magic. If anyone else in the UK ever comes across this thread and wants to do the conversion then drop me a PM. I'll update this thread with a progress report once it's done.

    Thanks again to dhalsey and terminus.

  28. #28
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    That is great news man, glad you found a Van RC and even better a local bike mechanic who is willing to do the conversion for you and has the parts (even without the needle bearing I think you'll be just fine)! Although I'm not a bike mechanic I've always tried to do the work myself, its enjoyable for me and I love learning how things work, plus I've got all the tools needed and a shop which makes it much easier! If you or your mechanic have any questions please feel free to post them. I'll be looking forward to progress reports and maybe even some photos, good luck!

  29. #29
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    Can someone give me the spec of the normal lower bush kit? I need to order some parts but don't know the size of the normal lower bushes and I don't have access to my bike until Saturday. If one of you knowledgeable gents could let me know I'd appreciate it.

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    The lower stock bushing/reducer (the lower shock mount hardware) is as follows (at least on my 2011 Remedy 8),

    Bushing/Reducer Overall Length: 39.88mm
    ID of Bushing/Reducer: 8mm

    Post back if you need additional info or if I didn't understand your question properly.

  31. #31
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    Got the DB shock home with the 10mm machined bolt, nut & spacers and installed the beast to my bike. Coil is 450 (lb/in) and my weight with the gear is about 176 lbs.

    First impression is that bike feels much solid now and is more efficient to pedal as it doesn't bob anymore, it also eats the small hits easily, will get to the bigger hit handling later as I have tested the bike more.



    At the rocker there are the Trek's original 10mm bearings, with the machined parts it installed like a dream and the coil side has the original 8mm bolt from the DrCV shock.




  32. #32
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    [QUOTE=Nemesis-FIN;9421107] Got the DB shock home with the 10mm machined bolt, nut & spacers and installed the beast to my bike. Coil is 450 (lb/in) and my weight with the gear is about 176 lbs.

    First impression is that bike feels much solid now and is more efficient to pedal as it doesn't bob anymore, it also eats the small hits easily, will get to the bigger hit handling later as I have tested the bike more.



    At the rocker there are the Trek's original 10mm bearings, with the machined parts it installed like a dream and the coil side has the original 8mm bolt from the DrCV shock.

    ---
    Nice! Where did you get the "machined parts" you used? Are they the fox reducers folks have mentioned in this thread, or something else?
    Dirtbag since '89

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    Nemesis,
    I am very impressed to say the least, that was a very smart way to make the coil work and it looks like a stock part! Although my upper mount works perfectly it looks like a two year old's science project compared to your setup, lol! Keep us posted with your thoughts on the conversion as you get more ride time on it (yesterday was my second full-day riding the coil and it truly feels like a different bike)!

  34. #34
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    I ordered the machined parts with the shock, it didn't rise the price of the shock greatly. So it's not DIY really, but I thought that I'll post the pictures to help others with the installation and to give other option where it's not necessary to change the original rocker bearings.

    Correction to my earlier post: the reservoir side bolt diameter is also 8mm, NOT 10mm as I posted before.

    The bolt, adapters and the nut all have shoulders that sink in to the bearings to fit the 8mm bolt tight. The reason for that 8mm bolt for both ends was to give second option with the installation, the way it's installed now was however the only option since the piggy bag would touch the down tube if mounted upside down.

    Also worth mentioning is that Cane Creek does not give warranty to the shock used in this setup as the Remedy original shock was shorter. Maybe Elka, BOS, or Fox have different views about the warranty?

  35. #35
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    If you don't mind me asking Nemesis where did you buy the shock and mounting hardware (I researched for hours looking for mounting hardware that would be a bolt-on job, basically I was looking for exactly the hardware you have now)! Even though my setup is working I'd still go out and try buying the upper mounting hardware you have. Thanks for your help and time with this, I realize you have already been asking many questions!

  36. #36
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    I bought the parts from local Finnish store that sells and repairs shocks & forks. I'll assume that most of the shops (no matter what country they are in), that sell, maintenance/repair shocks and forks have access to the lathe for manufacturing custom spacers and other parts needed for mounting parts to different bikes.

    Making custom parts is easier for the shop if you take the bike there, but also possible if you take exact measurements with caliper.

  37. #37
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    I'm still waiting on some parts to arrive but I did get an interesting email from a chap at Mojo (here in the UK). I asked for advice on how to get the Van RC to fit and he said this;

    Itís way simpler than that!
    If you go to pro-bolt they do Ti bolts for race motorcycles Ė pro-bolt.com or tastynuts.com!
    Go for a Ti 75 x M10 flange bolt bolt with a 1.25 thread and get the Ti flange nut to go with it. You can use the stock bearings in the linkage and the stock black aluminium DRCV spacers. If you go to our web store and order a bush kit that consists of your normal lower bushes (donít go for the needle bearings the wind up and bind, they DONíT work! Trust me Iíve tried them...) and a 39.88 x M10 steel pin bushing for the top of the shock. Bolt goes through the linkage, spacers inside the linkage bearings, 39.88 bushing between. Good luck!


    Hopefully my parts will arrive soon so I get cracking with this. My bike is being transformed at the moment as I'm also changing forks from 32 Float FIT RLC to Lyrik RC2DH. It's going to ride like a completely transformed beast when it's all finished!

  38. #38
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    unclesomebody,
    Thanks for sharing that information with us, greatly appreciated! As stupid as it sounds I didn't even think to try looking for specialized nuts/bolts online (in hindsight it seems obvious that there are online retailers that carry just about anything you need)! By the way I think your new fork choice is an excellent one, especially since I did the same exact thing, lol! It was one of the first things I changed after buying the bike. I bought a 2012 RS Lyrik RC2DH (white in color with tapered steerer). Not that you asked but its been a great fork so far and a nice upgrade from the stock Talas 32 RL that came on my rig (please let me know if you have any questions about setup, servicing, or rebuilding as I just went completely through mine after only 15hrs on it).

    Nemesis,
    Thanks for your help and time!

  39. #39
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    Qiuck update; I'm still waiting on the steel pin bushing kit to arrive but it should be here this week! I went out on the Lyrik's and can say they feel MUCH better than my Float 32 140mm Kashima. Initially I was a bit underwhelmed but once I got going I really noticed the difference. Now it's just the rear shock that needs to be upgraded in line with the front!

    In terms of rear shock compatibility, should any rear shock of the right size fit on a Remedy? This is on the assumption that it can physically fit. It would be great to see a list of all the coil shocks that people have used for this conversion. I'm worried that the Van RC is just a stepping stone to something more expensive... ha ha.

  40. #40
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    From the research I've done unclesomebody just about any shock of the correct e2e length should work (the actual eyelet dimensions seems to be the same on most mainstream shocks, Fox, Elka, Cane Creek, Rockshock, etc..). Just keep in mind that some shocks might have different eyelet dimensions which would require modified mounting hardware. I might be wrong but most eyelet dimensions are 15mm ID without the DU bushing installed and 12.7mm with the DU bushing installed, basically you need 1/2" OD bushings to fit through the shock eyelet when the DU bushing is installed.

    According to RWC's website these are all compatible with each other (that is to say the eyelet dimensions are similar).
    FOX SHOCKS (ALL)
    ROCKSHOX MONARCH AND VIVID SERIES SHOCKS
    ROCKSHOX ARIO SHOCKS 2010 AND NEWER
    MARZOCCHI ROCO
    MANITOU SHOCKS 2011 AND NEWER
    ELKA SHOCKS (ALL)
    X-FUSION SHOCKS 2011 AND NEWER
    DIVERSE/DUELER (ALL)

  41. #41
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    Thanks for the info terminus. I think I'll aim to get the Van RC fitted before moving any further or spending any more money! All the parts have now finally arrived so I'll be giving this a go over the weekend. If I don't come out on top then my friendly mechanic will be pulled in. Will try to post up pictures of the whole process...

    Also, as a side note, I accidentally ordered double the required parts, so I have 2 sets of bushings. If anyone is in the UK and wants to do this conversion then email me at my username at gmail dot come and I can sell you the required bushing kits for cheaper than anywhere else!

    PS. Once I get to 10 posts I'll be PM'ing you to find out about the Lyrik's (set up, servicing, etc).

  42. #42
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    Could someone advise on whether or not I really need to remove the cranks to get to the lower pivot in order to remove the shock? Can't I just remove the shock (maybe after removing some air from the shock)?

  43. #43
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    Good news. I've just said goodbye to air and hello to coil!

  44. #44
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    https://www.dropbox.com/s/a9m956ldhr5o9dk/P1050165.JPG


    https://www.dropbox.com/s/dvxa5u7renr9un4/P1050184.JPG

    I can't tell you all how easy it was. Once I had the parts in front of me it literally took me 30 minutes (because I made a mistake at one point!). I've taken photos and will do a little write up in a minute.

    EDIT: Images aren't working, so use the links instead.

  45. #45
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    I've done a write up with pics and a full breakdown of parts. Hopefully it will prove useful to someone!

    English man in Font Ľ Trek Remedy 2010-11 Coil Shock Conversion

    Can't wait to hit the alps in 3 days. Thanks to dhalsey for starting this thread and to terminusavid for helping me greatly along the way.

  46. #46
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    I apologize for not staying up to date in the forum unclesomebody because I would have replied much sooner! With that said I'm very impressed with your conversion, you did an excellent job! I think your blog write up was also very good, in fact I find myself wishing I would have done exactly what you did because your method was much easier and much cheaper (as you mentioned there is no need to use a needle bearing for either the upper or lower mounts, like you I've heard nothing but negative opinions about them since I installed mine - figures)! Fortunately the hardware you used did not cost all that much money so I think I'm just going to re-due my conversion using your method (if you don't mind), lol? Thanks again for keeping us posted and please write back once you have some more time riding the coil, I'm curious about your thoughts. In my case I still think it was one of the best investments I made on my Remedy - the bike feels more solid overall and far more plush than with the air can!

  47. #47
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    Just got back from the alps a couple of days ago. This was my first outing on the coil remedy and I am honestly blown away. This bike made a lot of people look very stupid as a guy with a single crown all mountain bike came blasting past them on their full on DH machines. It's hard to describe just how capable this set up now is. I didn't do a lot of pedalling up so I can't give an honest opinion of how it pedals but I can give a very honest opinion of how it descends/jumps.

    The coil is another league from the RP2 that it replaced. It's difficult to measure how much more plush it is but the Van RC has performed admirably. Whether it was tearing down a green/blue/red/black run, it always felt very planted in the rear. Hitting some decent sized drops/jumps/gaps and the difference was even more apparent. Landing was always a smooth affair and the bike made me look like a much better rider than I really am.

    I was filled with confidence and pushed things as hard and far as I could. This culminated in a crunched back wheel (literally snapped the rim) when I came up 6" short on a fairly large step down river gap. Luckily the bike shops are very capable out there and 2 hours later I went back up with a new wheel and finished it off.

    However, by the end of the week I was left wanting... wanting something with a tiny bit more travel. I saw a lot of Session 88's out there and definitely had a bit of envy. I also saw a couple of Scratch's (a much rarer bike than you might think!) and that is probably where I'll head next. One guy on a session commented that I had a "nice bike" and only after saying it he realised it was a Remedy! Perhaps the 150mm travel will do for now, especially in England, but I think the next big trip will require something with a bit more travel. I do think it's a bit crazy to chase a Scratch for another 20mm travel so we'll see what happens...

    In conclusion, if you are reading this and you have a remedy with an air shock then don't think twice about following the instructions above and putting on a coil shock. The coil has made this bike a monster. The weight penalty is so minor when compared to the fact you'll end up with an all mountain machine that probably can't be beat in my opinion...

    Thanks again to the original fella's on this thread; you're responsible for my insanely amazing week of riding in Les Gets/Chatel.

  48. #48
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    hmmmmm very interesting.... this is tempting to say the least. Does anyone noticed any loss of performance when peddling uphill?
    Current Rides:
    2011 Trek Remedy 8

    To Get Me There:
    2012 Ford F150 Ecoboost

  49. #49
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    That was an absolutely perfect description unclesomebody of the difference I experience once installing a coil on my Remedy, I've tried to articulate it a few times but you summed it up perfectly! I've now got about 20hrs of riding with the coil at Highlands (local mountain bike park) and you hit the nail on the head in regards to wanting a bit more travel, because I've spent more money on my bike and gear this year than I expected I'll probably finish out the year on the Remedy but like you I'll be going after something in the 180mm range - hell I sometimes wish I just built a damn DH rig instead of dumping all this cash into building up the Remedy (for now I'll just try to enjoy riding and pushing this Remedy to the edge)!

  50. #50
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    Man, you guys are really making wish I had gone the Remedy route instead of the Rumblefish... I just HAD to have those 29in wheels. Now all I want is something with little wheels and more travel, and now with a coil. Maybe I could fit a coil on the Rumblefish... Nah, not worth it.
    Or is it... Time to do some research.

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