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  1. #1
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    4 and 6 series -> 4900 Disc vs 6000

    Hello,

    First question is, will 6 series be discontinued?

    Components look really similar in between 4900 Disc and 6000.
    Upgrades from 4900 Disc:
    Shimano M552 crank
    Shimano M435 hubs
    Shimano M780 XT rear derailleur

    Price difference is only 130USD

    Which one would you pick in these between?
    Are there important frame&geometry differences between 4 and 6 series?

    Other thing concerns me if 6 series will be discountinued , than I want to go with 4 series..

    Please leave your valuable comments.
    Thanks

  2. #2
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    For that little cash, the 6000 would likely be better. You do get better derailleurs. They both fature the Alpha Gold frames. Other than that it seems like there isn't any other major difference.

  3. #3
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    The 4 series has a frame geometry that can be described only with a pejorative.

    The 6 series has pretty classic XC geometry.

    I can't be bothered to go through the rest of the specs. But, price steps of a bit over $100 seem reasonable at that pricepoint. I wouldn't worry too much about Trek discontinuing the 6 series. Even if they did, they're supposed to be great about servicing their warranties, so whatever. In general, if you pay more, you get more. It's not until higher price points where what you get more of is just advertising, or supporting men in skinny jeans and V-neck T-shirts.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  4. #4
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    I decided to go with 4300 Disc, use it till end of summer and when 2013 Shimano SLX components released I'll upgrade full set.

  5. #5
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    Did you buy it yet?

    There's a real difference in frame geometry. It might be appropriate for you, but it's a lot more annoying to replace a frame...

    IMO, the '13 SLX isn't going to be any better than the '12 SLX. Not that SLX isn't a badass group, I think it is. I just don't see there being any functional improvement.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  6. #6
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    Yes I've placed my order today although I haven't dropped any money yet.
    Hopefully delivery will be tomorrow to my LBS and I'm going to buy it.

    Actually I made test ride with 6000. I really liked it. It's obvious better bike than 4 series.I understand after comparing it.
    On the other hand, both 4 and 6 series are not that light bikes as I desire. I definetely would want lighter bike in future. The thing is I can't afford more than thousand USD this year..
    Therefore I decided to downgrade little bit, ride my bike for a while and maybe upgrade some components like I said SLX full set.
    Afterwards I may sell it or give it some friends, and when my budget allows me to make a real upgrade than I'll look for 8 or 9 series..

    Hope that I'll enjoy this decision of mine.
    Thanks for your input.

    Cheers

  7. #7
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    I have to say, I wouldn't bother upgrading the drivetrain on the current-model 4900 unless something broke. It's already Deore and an SLX rear derailleur. It's already 10-speed. It even already has reasonably well-regarded hydraulic disc brakes.

    The 6000's biggest difference is a nicer frame. It's got a longer top tube, enough to feel pretty significant. That's probably the difference you felt when you test rode. As a plus, it should be lighter than the 4-series frame.

    My experience has been that when I can make myself happy in the present, it's better not to pin my expectations on some future budget change. Life doesn't always work that way, but a bike you don't abuse can last a pretty long time. Most of the potential for a change in weight isn't in the drivetrain anyway.

    Since you haven't spent any money, give it some thought. And if you're going to plan a future purchase, make it the fork. There's a few pounds (really!) to lose there, and it'll actually effect the ride too.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  8. #8
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    If I had it to do again, I'd probably go with the 6 series over the 4 series I have. At times I feel the cockpit is a little cramped but other times it feels okay too. I do run a longer stem, 110mm on a 19.5" frame. The longer ETT on the 6 series would allow a shorter stem and quicker steering compared to the 4 series.

  9. #9
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    I've pulled the trigger and got my bike last Friday. It's 4300 Disc.

    As I've mentioned, I plan to upgrade drivetrain full SLX mid summer.
    Thanks for your comments at all.

    I'll post some pictures after I reach 10 msg limit

  10. #10
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    Congrats on the new bike The 4300 is a solid ride.

    If you really want to spend money on some upgrades, my advice is to take that money you would spend on the SLX drivetrain bits and spend it on a decent fork. You'll get much more bang for your buck there.

    Enjoy the ride!

  11. #11
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    Congrats! I've been riding a 4300 multiple times a week for almost a year now and really like it. Good, simple, solid bike.

  12. #12
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    @Pedro S, do you have any recommendation on forks?
    How about Rock Shox Reba RL ?

    Thank you @CabinDweller, I'm already enjoying it.


    So here is a few comments after riding 4300 Disc several times:
    I think it's better geo design for my purposes. Shorter tob tube and longer head tube than 6 series, gives more upright position.

    4 series are really good for soft pavement as well. You feel comfy on the wheels.

    However I tried 2 times hard trails, also downhill for shortly , which left me feeling unconfident.
    I think this is because I'm so new to this and don't have enough courage and skills. Also 2.1" tires are slim for the trails I tried. Maybe I can change my tires to knobby 2.2"
    That's put me thinking if 6 series would give more confident, maybe it feels more stick and thicker image while riding..

    Hydrolic disk brakes are good. It feels I can stop in urgent sitation tightly. Especially front braking is powerful, however rear brakes started making noise. Maybe that's normal until finishing it's burn-in period. Also upgrading to SLX brakes is in my list after 2013 Shimano's released.

    Chain started moving a bit on each pedal at highest level maybe it's either front derailleur or crank .I think it needs adjustment, I need to learn how to tune gears and brakes.

    Here are few pictures




  13. #13
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    The Reba's a nice fork. It'll make a huge difference in your ride. However, it's pretty expensive... more on that in a second.

    Tires will definitely make a difference. The tires that ship on entry-level mountain bikes are pretty bogus. Trail surfaces like in your first picture are difficult no matter what. But a bigger, knobbier tire helps. I bought a Kenda Nevegal last summer because I hoped it would be a little more consistent on a descent with a lot of loose rocks. It was. I'm sure others will chime in with their own favorites, you've opened Pandora's Box.

    You're considering bolting a fork that retails for close to the retail of your entire bike onto your bike. Everything on that bike can be replaced, to the benefit of the ride. I think you need to be very clear on your long-term plan for this bike before you do it. If you're sure you want to put next year's SLX on this frame, and hang onto it, fine. But if you're still thinking you might give it to a friend and do a complete do-over, think about a more modestly-priced fork. The RockShox Recon is very well-regarded. The Recon Gold will actually perform pretty competitively with the Reba, but you can have it for a lot less. Some Tora versions may still be floating around that would be good alternatives too.

    The upgrade trap can be pretty all-encompassing. If you ride in wet weather, you're going to trash your front hub soon. (If you don't, you still will, just less soon.) So you're into a new front wheel, or a new set - another thing that's quite expensive, relative to a complete bike.

    Including replacing the entire drivetrain, that leaves you with having bought almost everything twice, and then bolted it onto a cheap frame. If you're happy with the frame, fine. But like I said - be very sure that you want to hang onto this bike long-term before you start bolting a lot of money to it. Work out your price for all this stuff and compare to the Trek X-Caliber and Trek/Fisher Superfly Al.

    Check out parktool.com for some really good repair instructions for pretty much every system on a bike.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  14. #14
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    @AndrwSwitch, thanks for your comments.

    Well, upgrade virus got into my blood too early. I also agreed that investing on 4 series won't satisfy me at all.
    My LBS will take back my 4300 D almost same price I got, and I'm into getting either 6900 or 8000.
    Price difference is about 260USD.
    Now I'm too far of my budget but I want to buy the best I can and kill this virus for 5 years at least.
    So which one?
    6900 - Trek Bicycle
    8000 - Trek Bicycle

    Here is the comparison for both (red's are differences which belongs to 8000):

    Frame
    Alpha Gold Aluminum w/semi-integrated head tube, formed down tube w/integrated gusset, formed top tube, monostay seatstay, forged dropouts w/rack & fender mounts, replaceable derailleur hanger
    Alpha Platinum Aluminum w/semi-integrated head tube, butted & formed top tube, hydroformed down tube w/integrated gusset, bridgeless seatstay, forged race dropouts & replaceable derailleur hanger

    Front suspension
    RockShox Reba RL w/Dual Air spring, remote lockout, rebound, alloy steerer, 100mm travel
    Fox Evolution Series 32 Float RL, air spring, lockout, rebound, 100mm travel

    Wheels
    Shimano Deore XT M785 alloy hubs; Bontrager AT-850 disc 32-hole rims
    Shimano Deore XT M785 alloy hubs; Bontrager Mustang Disc 32-hole rims, Tubeless Ready

    Tyres
    Bontrager XR1 Expert, 26x2.2"
    Bontrager XR1 Expert, 26x2.2"

    Shifters
    Shimano SLX M660-10, 10 speed
    Shimano SLX M660-10, 10 speed

    Front derailleur
    Shimano SLX
    Shimano SLX

    Rear derailleur
    Shimano Deore XT M780 Shadow
    Shimano Deore XT M780 Shadow

    Crank
    Shimano Deore XT M780, 42/32/24
    Shimano Deore XT M780, 42/32/24

    Cassette
    Shimano SLX HG81-10 11-36, 10 speed
    Shimano SLX HG81-10 11-36, 10 speed

    Pedals
    Wellgo alloy platform
    n/a

    Saddle
    Bontrager Evoke 2, chromoly rails
    Bontrager Evoke 2, chromoly rails

    Seatpost
    Bontrager SSR, 31.6mm, 20mm offset
    Bontrager Rhythm Elite, 31.6mm, zero offset

    Handlebar
    Bontrager Race Lite Low Riser, 31.8mm, 15mm rise, 9 degree sweep
    Bontrager Race Lite Low Riser, 31.8mm, 15mm rise, 9 degree sweep

    Stem
    Bontrager Race Lite, 31.8mm
    Bontrager Race Lite, 31.8mm

    Headset
    1-1/8" threadless, semi-integrated, semi-cartridge bearings
    1-1/8" threadless, semi-integrated, semi-cartridge bearings

    Brakeset
    Shimano SLX M666 hydraulic disc brakes
    Shimano SLX M666 hydraulic disc brakes

    Grips
    Bontrager Race Lite
    Bontrager Race Lite, lock-on

  15. #15
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    LOL. I always feel a little weird playing upgrade monger, normally it's counter to what I think is important about mountain biking. But, I think you'll be happier.

    There's only one difference that I think is actually significant, and that's whether you want the Fox or the Reba. Both are forks that you should be able to be content with for the life of the bike. Frame geometry is identical, so with different paint, you probably couldn't tell the difference without weighing, and then it would be minimal.

    There's a second difference that may or may not matter, and that's that the 8000's rims are described as tubeless-ready. Read some reviews - the AT-850s may take a conversion kit just fine. Or they may not.

    As far as being happy with it for five years, I dunno. That's long enough to experience changes in riding style and to wear out things that matter. Sometimes it makes more sense to replace than repair a part - for example, wheels with trashed rims aren't always worth repairing, sometimes it's cheaper to replace a whole crankset than to do multiple rings at once, stuff like that. And there's no guarantee you'll like the stock saddle, or be able to get "your" riding position with the stock handlebars, stem and seat post. Finally, stock tires aren't necessarily the right ones for your terrain. But there aren't any weak points on the build that I wouldn't expect to last the season, or really for all five years you're talking about if you don't have an accident or a maintenance fail.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  16. #16
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    But how about frame difference in between?
    8000 has Platinum frame which seems the highest point for aluminum frames.
    Doesn't it make sense or bring advantages over 6 series?

  17. #17
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    It's probably marginally lighter. Trek's names for aluminum are just marketing. So like I said - with the same paint, you probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaRaBeeN View Post
    @Pedro S, do you have any recommendation on forks?
    How about Rock Shox Reba RL ?
    I found a decent price on a Rock Shox Recon Silver which is much better than the junk RST that came on the bike.

    I agree with Andrew on the upgrade bug, I've put more money into my 4300 than I wish I had. I really should have saved the coin, sold the bike and bought a new one. Don't get me wrong, I like the bike I just let the upgrade bug bite a little to hard. I learned from this though and didn't repeat the mistake with my road bike purchase last year.

  19. #19
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    I don't get it : If you want a decent 26" HT, you can't find well balanced options in US market.
    There's a huge gap in between 6000 and 9.9SSL. Nothing in between.
    Why 8 series is not avaliable in US anymore!
    And it's a shame that, 6 series options are limited with only one option which is beginning model of the series!

    In European market, 6 series carry wide range options : 6000-6300-6500-6700-6900
    Than 2 options for 8's : 8000-8500

  20. #20
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    Are you shopping in the US or somewhere else?

    I'd speculate that 29ers have grabbed a lot of market share here, but I don't know - the bike companies are all emphasizing them, but they do all kinds of stupid things.

    I think 29ers are pretty cool. If you're doing a do-over anyway, hop on one and see what you think. There's not really a wrong answer here.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  21. #21
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    Hi Andrew,

    Yes I'll be shopping overseas.
    However I pay great attention to what US market thinks and behaves.
    You're the innovators and leads the MTB way.
    That's why one moment I thought why this lovely 8 series are not avaliable in US.

    Maybe you're right , if one wants HT , they go with 29ers nowadays, besides I think FuelEx family is more popular than HT's in US

  22. #22
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    I tried fuel ex 9, elite 9.6 today.
    Wow what a great bike that fuel ex 9 is!
    It's day'n night difference compared to my 4300 Disc.

    I put myself a new target for next year. Which would be definetely FS, either Fuel EX 9 or Remedy 9.

    To achive that target, I decided to stick with HT for a year or so. (too expensive for me right now!)
    Than I'll find chance to see which routes that I'd like to ride most, and improve my technics.

    But I'll be definetly upgrading to 8000 this weekend. Than next year when I trade this bike, it won't hurt that much

    Besides, I'll go with one size smaller, as I faced with hard moments with my current 19.5" frame.
    I'm 6'2" (188cm)

    I know each week after, I'm getting into different thoughts.
    Maybe I must update OP's title

  23. #23
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    thanks for the personal review of 4300 disc and 6000 disc. I'm currently torn between some of trek bikes. My first mountain bike. so difficult to choose...

  24. #24
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    Ended up with 2012 Trek 8000 Finally:
    Just rode a small track, oh god, now I know how a decent fork changes the ride!
    In the afternoon we'll be hitting for more serious riding.
    Here is a quick teaser pic from a terrain where it should be

  25. #25
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    That's a nice bike.

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