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  1. #1101
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zaf View Post
    I explained that poorly. It was a cynical comment made with regards to how they previously handled DRCV and how I'm sure they'll handle the Thrushaft technology now that it's here.

    Not to mention a slight pain in the arse that they didn't just use a standard, unmodified/spaced shock spacing and stroke to begin with.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Zaf View Post
    The same way they did the DRCV when they first released that...like I wrote.
    Maybe you should go back to DRCV launch and remind yourself of the servicing processes whilst all the technical documents were kept in house at Trek.
    Well, they had a patent on DRCV, so perhaps that would explain why they weren't so forthcoming with technical documents, but I am just guessing on that. I don't really care, though.

    Regardless of how they handled DRCV service, it doesn't affect the fact that the new Thru Shaft shocks are serviced by Fox and RockShox, not Trek. This is a fact, not speculation like your cynical comment.

    I hear ya on the sizing, though.

  2. #1102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deep Thought View Post
    Well, they had a patent on DRCV, so perhaps that would explain why they weren't so forthcoming with technical documents, but I am just guessing on that. I don't really care, though.

    Regardless of how they handled DRCV service, it doesn't affect the fact that the new Thru Shaft shocks are serviced by Fox and RockShox, not Trek. This is a fact, not speculation like your cynical comment.

    I hear ya on the sizing, though.
    No different with DRCV, Trek didn't service those either. They could be easily serviced by any knowledgeable shop, or Fox.

  3. #1103
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    At least with the Slash/Remedy, we are starting to get confirmation that a regular metric 230x60 shock will work. Perhaps Trek limited shock/travel to 230x57.5 because they are offering a 15.5 small Slash. I would imagine a small Slash with big 29er wheels and 100mm dropper may contact the saddle but I have not confirmed. If someone has a 15.5 Slash with 100mm saddle can confirm it would be great.

    Some folks in the 2017/2018 Fuel EX threads are also long shocking it also with a 210x55 DPX2 shock over the stock 210x52.5 shock.

  4. #1104
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    I think Trek are more cautious with bb height than other brands too.

    Good news for us though, i'll be removing the spacer at next service fo sho

  5. #1105
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    So my 17.5 frame with a 150mm dropper post sits about 60mm from the tire at full travel. I have a 32inch inseam and there's plenty of clearance for me but for someone running a 125 dropper with a 28-30" inseam, i wouldn't recommended getting a 60mm stroke shock.
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  6. #1106
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwzimmer View Post
    So my 17.5 frame with a 150mm dropper post sits about 60mm from the tire at full travel. I have a 32inch inseam and there's plenty of clearance for me but for someone running a 125 dropper with a 28-30" inseam, i wouldn't recommended getting a 60mm stroke shock.
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    Clearance between the seat stay and seat tube looks pretty dicey as well. If I'm not mistaken, there's supposed to be at least a cm of clearance to account for hard bottom outs.

  7. #1107
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    Theres about 10-12mm of clearance currently there. Should be OK. At bottom out its typically metal on metal contact. With a coil shock, take out the spring and push it hard against the jounce bumper to check but with air your fine
    Last edited by bmwzimmer; 01-07-2018 at 03:43 PM.

  8. #1108
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    Could use some input!

    I need some help - I made the huge mistake of riding the Slash 29er and now I want one! - I felt so comfortable on it and it seemed to be perfect balance of feeling like a DH beast, but still fun even if you aren't shredding the gnarliest lines.

    The problem is that I already have a bunch of very nice components for non-boost, 27.5 & my initial plan was to find a frame that I could use these components, so if I get a Slash 29er frame, I will have to sell and re-buy a bunch of components & I would lean toward a frame since there are things I don't love about the stock components, and I have always strongly preferred Fox rear shocks, which the one I tried out had

    It also seems pretty difficult to find a good deal on the newer 29ers, but pretty easy to find a 2016 27.5 for a really good deal, so my question is does the 27.5 version have a similar feel to the 29er or are they completely different bikes?

    It also seems like it would also be a pain to try to custom fit a Fox shock onto the 27.5 frame if I don't like the RS that they all come with and wanted to switch it out (although I did find somebody who is selling one already custom built w/ a Fox Float X)

    Is there anybody who has tried the 27.5 and 29 version that could weigh in? Any other thoughts?

    Thanks for the input!

  9. #1109
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    Quote Originally Posted by skyno View Post
    I need some help - I made the huge mistake of riding the Slash 29er and now I want one! - I felt so comfortable on it and it seemed to be perfect balance of feeling like a DH beast, but still fun even if you aren't shredding the gnarliest lines.

    The problem is that I already have a bunch of very nice components for non-boost, 27.5 & my initial plan was to find a frame that I could use these components, so if I get a Slash 29er frame, I will have to sell and re-buy a bunch of components & I would lean toward a frame since there are things I don't love about the stock components, and I have always strongly preferred Fox rear shocks, which the one I tried out had

    It also seems pretty difficult to find a good deal on the newer 29ers, but pretty easy to find a 2016 27.5 for a really good deal, so my question is does the 27.5 version have a similar feel to the 29er or are they completely different bikes?

    It also seems like it would also be a pain to try to custom fit a Fox shock onto the 27.5 frame if I don't like the RS that they all come with and wanted to switch it out (although I did find somebody who is selling one already custom built w/ a Fox Float X)

    Is there anybody who has tried the 27.5 and 29 version that could weigh in? Any other thoughts?

    Thanks for the input!
    Totally different bikes. Better and different things. 27.5 version rides a lot like any of current 27.5 enduro bikes. I think the closes 27.5 bike current out right now is the Nomad V4. Either way 29 just rides different from 27.5. Trade off between DH plowing speed and playfulness.
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  10. #1110
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    Slash HT Angle

    Anyone physically measure their HT Angle? With 2.5 DHF's up front and stock 2.4 Bontrager tires in the back, I measured 64.0 degrees. With 2.5/2.3 DHF/DHRII combo, I measured 64.5 degrees. I figured there is a draft on the fork legs since they are casted magnesium or aluminum but the back side from where I measured appears perfectly parallel to the stanchions so this location should provide an accurate reading using the tool I'm using. I did the same measurement on 3 other bikes and they are all where they're supposed to be.

    2015 Stumpjumper - 67.8 deg.
    2017 Fuel EX 29er with 150 fork (instead of 130) - 66.0 deg
    2017 Intense Recluse 66.2

    So I think the Slash's HT could be a bit slacker than what Trek is claiming since the numbers on the other bikes appear correct (within 0.25 degrees).


    2017 Trek Slash details-image1.jpg2017 Trek Slash details-image2.jpg

  11. #1111
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwzimmer View Post
    Anyone physically measure their HT Angle? With 2.5 DHF's up front and stock 2.4 Bontrager tires in the back, I measured 64.0 degrees. With 2.5/2.3 DHF/DHRII combo, I measured 64.5 degrees. I figured there is a draft on the fork legs since they are casted magnesium or aluminum but the back side from where I measured appears perfectly parallel to the stanchions so this location should provide an accurate reading using the tool I'm using. I did the same measurement on 3 other bikes and they are all where they're supposed to be.

    2015 Stumpjumper - 67.8 deg.
    2017 Fuel EX 29er with 150 fork (instead of 130) - 66.0 deg
    2017 Intense Recluse 66.2

    So I think the Slash's HT could be a bit slacker than what Trek is claiming since the numbers on the other bikes appear correct (within 0.25 degrees).


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    where is the mini link at? high or low
    Too Many .

  12. #1112
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    Mino Link at Low as i prefer the lower bottom bracket

  13. #1113
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    What fork is that? Do you know what the axle-to-race measurement is?

  14. #1114
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    Its a 2017 160/130 Dual Position Lyrik RCT3. Axle to crown should be 571mm according to their website.

  15. #1115
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    Slash!

    Who wants a red one!? Hit me up.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Trek Slash details-img_0370.jpg  


  16. #1116
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwzimmer View Post
    Its a 2017 160/130 Dual Position Lyrik RCT3. Axle to crown should be 571mm according to their website.
    Looks like the ATR for the stock Fox 36 is 567. I don't know if 4mm is enough to affect the HA that much, but that could explain part of it. < shrug >

  17. #1117
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    try measuring the headangle with the same tires front and rear... of course it is slacker when you run a larger front tire (versus using the same tire F+R). measure the axle to crown on your fork while you're at it, the published measurements are not perfectly accurate in my experience with various forks (might be +/- 5 mm or so).

  18. #1118
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    Really disgusted with TREK warranty...I sent my slash for repainting, as many of you I also have this chips everywhere. It seems that one of the chips hid a crack!! I never had a big crash with my slash, how is that possible??!

    After discussing with the guy at TREK NO SOLUTIONS ARE proposed!! what! do I throw my 4'000 dollars frame out to the trash after 6 months?? they dont repare they only propose 20% off for a new frame. Disgusting. Never again TREK, never.



  19. #1119
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    Looks like a pretty minor crack. Should be Easily repairable.
    It appears you may have dropped the bike on a sharp rock? I can’t imagine those chips are caused my normal riding especially in that location

  20. #1120
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwzimmer View Post
    Looks like a pretty minor crack. Should be Easily repairable.
    It appears you may have dropped the bike on a sharp rock? I can’t imagine those chips are caused my normal riding especially in that location
    yes, it was a rock at a very small speed...the issue is that I can repair it but the paint is not going to be done!! pretty dissapointed

  21. #1121
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    Quote Originally Posted by rggomez View Post
    yes, it was a rock at a very small speed...the issue is that I can repair it but the paint is not going to be done!! pretty dissapointed
    So, do you want to retract your statement about Trek's warranty?

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  22. #1122
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    well, It was a very small incident, I did not see the scratch at first, just few minutes later when I stopped for a drink. I dont understand how this frame can be so fragile. And no, I do not retract, I dont think that to purchase a new frame is the solution (that is the only option they gave me)

  23. #1123
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    Quote Originally Posted by rggomez View Post
    well, It was a very small incident, I did not see the scratch at first, just few minutes later when I stopped for a drink. I dont understand how this frame can be so fragile. And no, I do not retract, I dont think that to purchase a new frame is the solution (that is the only option they gave me)
    it's a bummer when you break an expensive carbon frame (I've broken many), but there is not a single manufacturer out there that would warranty your damage. it is obvious impact damage. the slash is a race bike, the frame is lighter than many other enduro bikes out there. this is the compromise. I'd expect to pay ~$1000 for a crash replacement front triangle. sucks, no doubt about it.

  24. #1124
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    Yeah it sucks, I would take this option of 1000 for sure if they propose it to me. but not even that was proposed. that's is the most dissapointed side of this issue, not a good customer care at all...you pay 20% or go

  25. #1125
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    You dont need a new shock or chainstays. Just the main frame.

  26. #1126
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    Quote Originally Posted by rggomez View Post
    Yeah it sucks, I would take this option of 1000 for sure if they propose it to me. but not even that was proposed. that's is the most dissapointed side of this issue, not a good customer care at all...you pay 20% or go
    ask them for the crash replacement price for a new front triangle. that is how all brands deal with this situation.

    edit: did you buy the bike from an LBS? they should help you deal with this.

  27. #1127
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardboiled View Post
    ask them for the crash replacement price for a new front triangle. that is how all brands deal with this situation.

    edit: did you buy the bike from an LBS? they should help you deal with this.
    yes I purchased it in a LBS but they actually adviced me to call directly the waranty. The guy from the waranty did only propose to purchase a brand new frame, not the front triangle. I will ask my dealer to see with TREK if they can provide me a new front triangle, that could be the solution.

  28. #1128
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    I Love it! Crash the bike, be surprised you don’t get a new one for free, cry about it on the Internet! Hilarious, really


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  29. #1129
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    I would just ride it... If it was just a small hit like you say it's fine. Trek doesn't do carbon repair work..... This has nothing to do with treks warranty.. They are offering you a crash replacement frame... Seem like the fair thing to do to me.

  30. #1130
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    Well, I contacted TREK US and they are looking for a solution. I have asked them if a fron triangle can be purchased, and it seem this could be the way forward. Will let you know

  31. #1131
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    Well, finally the only option is to buy a new frame. What do you think of the new shock?

    I am thinking into fit the FOX X2 as the reviews of the re:aktiv are not so good and the FOX worked flawlessly

  32. #1132
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    This thing with Trunnion... Are there any differences between the 17 & 18 frames due to the Trunnion mount or are the rocker, lower mount etc. exactly the same?
    I.E, is it possible to mount a 18 shock on a 17 frame?


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  33. #1133
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yeti83 View Post
    This thing with Trunnion... Are there any differences between the 17 & 18 frames due to the Trunnion mount or are the rocker, lower mount etc. exactly the same?
    I.E, is it possible to mount a 18 shock on a 17 frame?


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    It's still the same physical dimensions i2i, so 230 mm, but the 2018 is trunnion to leave enough room for the thru shaft mechanicals. If you can get hold of the 2018 mounting hardware, I don't see why you couldn't have an 18 shock on a 17 frame
    Last edited by icantride; 01-18-2018 at 12:14 AM. Reason: Incomplete

  34. #1134
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yeti83 View Post
    This thing with Trunnion... Are there any differences between the 17 & 18 frames due to the Trunnion mount or are the rocker, lower mount etc. exactly the same?
    I.E, is it possible to mount a 18 shock on a 17 frame?


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    Exactly the same. I have both in the garage and have swapped shocks back and forth.

  35. #1135
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    Thx!


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  36. #1136
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    SX450, can you compare the differences between the X2 and Thrushaft shock?

  37. #1137
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwzimmer View Post
    SX450, can you compare the differences between the X2 and Thrushaft shock?
    Sure thing. The RS through shaft shock seemed like a solid shock with plenty of adjustment that rode a bit higher in the travel and seemed to have more of a ramp up towards the end of stroke compared to where I have my X2 set. I've noticed that on all RS rear shocks I've ridden to date. It probably helped climbing a bit, but that's not to say you couldn't get the X2 to feel similar, I just like my stuff more on the plush side normally. No issues in the couple rides I put on it. Compared to the previous RS rear it might just be a tad more supple on the smaller bumps initially, but through the stroke it felt very similar to me. Granted my rides with both weren't back to back, but that's what I remember at this point. Would I swap one for the other? Probably not. The X2 is a different story.

    The weight is another plus for the RS. I want to say it was around 130g ish lighter, which adds up if you're into that. I have the DPX2 installed now, but haven't had a chance to ride it due to weather here. I will note that the rebound is 1 click from full hard and I feel like it's still faster than I like. I'm sure I could send it to Fox for a tune, but out of the box I feel it should have more play than that. I'm on the heavier side of riders at 215 without gear. I'll report back on the DPX2 once I have a chance to dial it in. I'm sure at some point the X2 will go back on since it's just such a good shock with all the adjustment a guy could ever want! Stay tuned...

  38. #1138
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    Thanks for the post, I was just looking at Fox shocks for my '18 Slash...

    The RS on my '18 Slash started leaking after a few rides, SRAM sent a new one quickly though, hopefully I'll get the bike back tomorrow.

    I think the RS matches up with the new '18 Fox 36 Float really well, they both have more midstroke support, stay a little higher in the travel over smaller bumps and react very quickly and smoothly. The RS does ramp up nicely and it seems like an evolutionary upgrade over the Monarch Debonair on my 27.5 Slash. I have not tried the Fox alternatives but might look into it if the RS isn't reliable.

    What's definitely the case is the '9er Slash is a lot more efficient vs the 27.5 and it could have to do with the shock... the 27.5 seemed more "active" while climbing and pedaling, making open mode fairly inefficient while open mode on the '9er Slash is less active and more efficient. The way it pedals reminds me a little more of a multi-link sus design than single pivot.

  39. #1139
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    Quote Originally Posted by davec113 View Post
    Thanks for the post, I was just looking at Fox shocks for my '18 Slash...

    The RS on my '18 Slash started leaking after a few rides, SRAM sent a new one quickly though, hopefully I'll get the bike back tomorrow.

    I think the RS matches up with the new '18 Fox 36 Float really well, they both have more midstroke support, stay a little higher in the travel over smaller bumps and react very quickly and smoothly. The RS does ramp up nicely and it seems like an evolutionary upgrade over the Monarch Debonair on my 27.5 Slash. I have not tried the Fox alternatives but might look into it if the RS isn't reliable.

    What's definitely the case is the '9er Slash is a lot more efficient vs the 27.5 and it could have to do with the shock... the 27.5 seemed more "active" while climbing and pedaling, making open mode fairly inefficient while open mode on the '9er Slash is less active and more efficient. The way it pedals reminds me a little more of a multi-link sus design than single pivot.
    I definitely remember the RS being better for climbing in the open mode vs the Fox. That's kind of a big deal really.

  40. #1140
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    2017 Trek Slash details-img_20180119_083622.jpg

    On my way to going full coil can't wait!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Trek Slash details-img_20180119_083651.jpg  


  41. #1141
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    Quote Originally Posted by SX450 View Post
    I definitely remember the RS being better for climbing in the open mode vs the Fox. That's kind of a big deal really.
    I agree, better efficiency in open mode will make the bike faster, and should make a difference for enduro racing. I think the new RS shock must have some pedaling platform even in open mode to achieve this.

    One of the first rides I did with the bike had a ~3 mile climb on pavement and I left the bike in open mode without realizing it. This would have been very obvious on my 27.5 Slash but it seemed to not matter much with the 9er.

    I've always like the natural, predictable feel and stiffness of the ABP Trek bikes, but compared to friend's Santa Cruz VPP and Yeti SB bikes the pedaling efficiency wasn't quite as good, now it seems to have caught up.

  42. #1142
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    Quote Originally Posted by davec113 View Post
    I agree, better efficiency in open mode will make the bike faster, and should make a difference for enduro racing. I think the new RS shock must have some pedaling platform even in open mode to achieve this.

    One of the first rides I did with the bike had a ~3 mile climb on pavement and I left the bike in open mode without realizing it. This would have been very obvious on my 27.5 Slash but it seemed to not matter much with the 9er.

    I've always like the natural, predictable feel and stiffness of the ABP Trek bikes, but compared to friend's Santa Cruz VPP and Yeti SB bikes the pedaling efficiency wasn't quite as good, now it seems to have caught up.
    I had the new SC Hightower LT and the Trek in my garage for a few months and went back and forth, because I couldn't decide which I wanted to keep. SC is gone now if that means anything. I think the Trek actually pedals better and for me it is more versatile with the ability to run plus and now I've got a 44mm offset CSU on the fork so realistically I could run 2.6x27.5 on my 35mm rims and be a 27.5 bike since the bb is so high. I'm liking the 29", but just pointing out the things this will do other bikes wont.

  43. #1143
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    Quote Originally Posted by rggomez View Post
    Well, finally the only option is to buy a new frame. What do you think of the new shock?

    I am thinking into fit the FOX X2 as the reviews of the re:aktiv are not so good and the FOX worked flawlessly
    Here’s another review of the thru shock. Mine has been working wonderfully as well
    The review is in Italian but your browser should translate it. The video shows some fun riding in the snow
    https://www.mtbcult.it/tests/video-t...slash-29-2018/

  44. #1144
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    Trying out a 2018 metric 230x60 Cane Creek DB Coil CS

    Found a deal on a brand new 2018 DB Coil CS on PB that happens to have the right spring rate I need (150-160lb rider). It was purchased for a V4 Nomad build but the guy changed his mind and decided to get a Sentinel instead so he's selling the shock and fork he bought for the Nomad at a great price. I'll be long stroking it at 230x60 instead of 230x57.5 for an extra 6mm of rear travel. If there are any problem (which I doubt there would be), I'll toss in a 2.5mm spacer to get it back down to 57.5.

    Anyways, here's the weight of it with Nomad mounting HW installed.

    The review from Dirtlabs below compares the DHX2, CC and Elevensix shock. The reviewer decided to keep the CC on after 3 months of testing mainly because of the climb switch. This review really encouraged me to get the CC as I do a ton of climbing.

    https://www.dirtlabs.com/push-eleven...ble-barrel-cs/

    2017 Trek Slash details-full-image.jpg2017 Trek Slash details-cc-shock-weight.jpg

  45. #1145
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    CCDB Coil CS

    Happy Friday, got the CC installed in time for the weekend. Took a bit longer than expected as it turns out there some interference with the bushing sleeves on the top mount because the steel bushing has a shoulder that helps center it when pressed in. This causes the sleeves to contain a step to clear the shoulder. Well that step in the sleeves causes interference with the CC's yoke. Thus, I had to grind down a bit of the sleeve. No big deal since you can't see it once installed (Remove o-rings in the sleeve before grinding it obviously).

    Well now it's time to start tinkering with the adjustments... I currently have a 350lb spring but may need to get a 400lb spring. I'm at 32-33% sag when seated and 27-28% in the attack position. Had no High speed compression and used most of the travel already on a curb test fully seated. The Slash's leverage curve is progressivity but not as steep as other bikes. Thus, it's a good idea to Increase high speed compression to try to reduce bottom.

    Posted some shock weights (with mounting HW) in case anybody cares.

    2017 Trek Slash details-img_8585.jpg2017 Trek Slash details-img_8577.jpg2017 Trek Slash details-img_8580.jpg2017 Trek Slash details-img_8581.jpg2017 Trek Slash details-img_8574.jpg2017 Trek Slash details-img_8575.jpg

  46. #1146
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwzimmer View Post
    Happy Friday, got the CC installed in time for the weekend. Took a bit longer than expected as it turns out there some interference with the bushing sleeves on the top mount because the steel bushing has a shoulder that helps center it when pressed in. This causes the sleeves to contain a step to clear the shoulder. Well that step in the sleeves causes interference with the CC's yoke. Thus, I had to grind down a bit of the sleeve. No big deal since you can't see it once installed (Remove o-rings in the sleeve before grinding it obviously).

    Well now it's time to start tinkering with the adjustments... I currently have a 350lb spring but may need to get a 400lb spring. I'm at 32-33% sag when seated and 27-28% in the attack position. Had no High speed compression and used most of the travel already on a curb test fully seated. The Slash's leverage curve is progressivity but not as steep as other bikes. Thus, it's a good idea to Increase high speed compression to try to reduce bottom.

    Posted some shock weights (with mounting HW) in case anybody cares.

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    It just looks so right with a coil. Out of interest how heavy are you to be running 350 lb/in? I'm 72 kg running 450 lb/in for ~30% sag. Interestingly when I bought my shock I was recommended a 375 which was soft AF.
    Re bottom out I find you can reach the b.o-bumper fairly easily by pumping hard in a car park, but on the trail I don't think I ever feel it bottom out unless it's a huge g out. Don't worry too much about the feel in the car park

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    I'm 65KG (145lbs) or 71 (155lbs) geared up. I was recommended 350lb spring for a 150-160lb rider and yes I agree it seems really soft. Going to play with the High Speed compression settings a bit to see what it's like before getting a 400lb spring. They're $100 each

    With your 450lb shock, are you bottoming out pumping hard at the car park or are you referring to the old 375lb spring?

  48. #1148
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwzimmer View Post
    I'm 65KG (145lbs) or 71 (155lbs) geared up. I was recommended 350lb spring for a 150-160lb rider and yes I agree it seems really soft. Going to play with the High Speed compression settings a bit to see what it's like before getting a 400lb spring. They're $100 each

    With your 450lb shock, are you bottoming out pumping hard at the car park or are you referring to the old 375lb spring?
    The 375 I was probably getting about 50% or there abouts, I still have a 425 which is good when you're not running kit like bags full of water, little bit too much sag if you're doing an all day with a heavy bag. 450 for me is a bit more versatile.

    With the 450 I can still compress it to the bottom out bumper if I really bounce, the bumper is 10 mm ?? thick so there's still travel remaining. But out on the trail I don't ever feel a bottom out. I run just enough HSC to keep it from blowing through the stroke, but not too much it becomes harsh

    Check ebay for second hand springs, I got my fox sls one for £40

  49. #1149
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    Big fan of the slash with a coil. Initially it was tuned too firm for my liking but after a retune I’m blown away. Traction is amazing yet it pedals better and feels more playful. I’d say it’s better in every aspect than the x2 float. Well worth the 200 gram weight penalty. Between the acs coil in the fork and the coil rear it’s amazing. 2017 Trek Slash details-b4032551-e84a-4181-98e7-850959f5d18b.jpg2017 Trek Slash details-11d186df-0098-4ef9-a238-c2d9c11f5406.jpg

  50. #1150
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    I couldn't help myself - just bought a 2017 Slash all custom built - nothing is OEM and nothing matches, but holy hell does this bike rip!

    The only thing I don't like so far is the poor seat tube design which really limits the range of the dropper - I am so used to using the full range of a 170mm dropper on my RM Altitude and this one only has 125mm, which just feels so inadequate when you are used to 170mm. I want to get as much range as I can get with this seat tube design, even if I need to go external routing.

    This is a medium frame (17.5") and I have about a 30" inseam; I estimated that the max I could insert the internal KS Lev Integra was about 176mm. Based on that, I will just barely be able to fit a KS Lev Integra 150mm, which has a max insertion of about 241mm, and the seatpost will still stick up about 65mm (not including collar).

    I'm getting greedy and wondering which post might give the largest possible range. Sorry if this has been covered in this thread, but has anybody figured out which dropper gives the most range with this frame? Is there an external post over 150mm? Thanks!

    2017 Trek Slash details-file-feb-06-12-14-34-pm.jpg

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    BikeYoke Revive might be the answer. My 185mm goes all the way in without a problem on a XL. Thin collar & low stack compared to most other droppers on the market as well, gives you extra room. The 185mm Revive also need less seat tube then the 150mm Reverb for example.


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  52. #1152
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    Quote Originally Posted by skyno View Post
    I couldn't help myself - just bought a 2017 Slash all custom built - nothing is OEM and nothing matches, but holy hell does this bike rip!

    The only thing I don't like so far is the poor seat tube design which really limits the range of the dropper - I am so used to using the full range of a 170mm dropper on my RM Altitude and this one only has 125mm, which just feels so inadequate when you are used to 170mm. I want to get as much range as I can get with this seat tube design, even if I need to go external routing.

    This is a medium frame (17.5") and I have about a 30" inseam; I estimated that the max I could insert the internal KS Lev Integra was about 176mm. Based on that, I will just barely be able to fit a KS Lev Integra 150mm, which has a max insertion of about 241mm, and the seatpost will still stick up about 65mm (not including collar).

    I'm getting greedy and wondering which post might give the largest possible range. Sorry if this has been covered in this thread, but has anybody figured out which dropper gives the most range with this frame? Is there an external post over 150mm? Thanks!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I agree, I love the bike but the seat tube almost proved to be an issue. I got it with a Fox Transfer 150mm but it didn't fit far enough into the seat tube on a L(19.5) and stack height is large too. I found dimensions of various dropper posts in the link below. I did the math and a Bikeyoke 160mm turned out to work perfectly ~2mm above where it bottoms on the frame.

    In these cases the dimensions of the post are the most important factor, and you may be able to find a 150+mm post that will work with a size M frame and your inseam length, crank length, etc... good luck!

    I would say the Bikeyoke post is very nice with a low "stack height" but KS is much shorter below, probably the shortest in the review. If you can make a Bikeyoke work it seems like the best choice these days.

    https://www.vitalmtb.com/features/Vi...per-Posts,1762

  53. #1153
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    ^^^ I'm on a 19.5 as well and have the BikeYoke 160 and love it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Yeti83 View Post
    BikeYoke Revive might be the answer. My 185mm goes all the way in without a problem on a XL. Thin collar & low stack compared to most other droppers on the market as well, gives you extra room. The 185mm Revive also need less seat tube then the 150mm Reverb for example.


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    Same setup here, great post

  55. #1155
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    How you guys running 60mm stroke shocks doing? Any issues?

  56. #1156
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimarin View Post
    How you guys running 60mm stroke shocks doing? Any issues?
    Need to carry a stick to beat away all the women the longer stroke keeps attracting. That's about it.

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  57. #1157
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zaf View Post
    Need to carry a stick to beat away all the women the longer stroke keeps attracting. That's about it.

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    Funny but seriously. Hard bottom outs, no contact? The only thing limiting travel on my ext is a plastic spacer under the bottom out bumper which is easily removed.

  58. #1158
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    I am running a 230x60 Coil shock and obviously the full stroke metal to metal is 60mm. However, the rubber bumper is about 10mm thick. Let's assume the maximum theoretical compression possible on the 10mm thick bumper is 2-3mm. Thus, the maximum stroke I could possibly be using on my shock is 57-58mm as there is no way that rubber bumper would compress to zero. Usually a pretty harsh bottom out sees about a 5mm compression. So I am actually probably only using 55mm of stroke on harder bottom outs which is very rare for me at my current spring rate.

    In terms of interference. I would say it depends on frame size and the size/length of the shock's piggy. Only you can answer that question. If you are lazy and don't want to disassemble your shock, just unscrew your preload knob all the way so that you are able to compress the shock all the way and bottom it out. At full compression with my CCDB coil, The Piggy barely touches the shift cable coming out the frame. The problem is the piggy on the CC has a thin sharp edge so it can potentially cut into the cable slightly. I have a PVC sleeve over the shift cable housing and the harshest of bottom outs I did while testing it without a spring did cut into the sleeve slightly. The trajectory of the the piggy at full compression doesn't go into the frame but goes slightly inwards towards the seattube so it will not contact the downtube. Anything bigger like the PUSH coil shock will definitely hit the downtube.

    Notice that it makes contact with the shifter and not the brake hose? That's because the shock is offset towards the right side and not central on the frame. I am running a 17.5" frame and if you are running a 15.5" frame I would probably advise not to get a CC shock or attempt long stroking it but anything bigger is likely fine.

    Disclaimer: Please verify yourself before running a 230x60. I am not responsible if it doesn't work out for you. It's working out for me though. Those two marks on the PVC tubing sleeve happened without a coil installed and me jumping on the seat as hard as I could. If I remove the PVC sleeve, the shift cable is not damaged whatsoever. In actual riding (6-7 rides so far), I can not get it to bottom out hard enough to touch the sleeves so I'm good.

    2017 Trek Slash details-5973440c-a363-42fe-9b15-d4690fb45424.jpg

    2017 Trek Slash details-55b71e2a-cf9e-485f-984e-22f2a4210182.jpg

  59. #1159
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    I've seen similar issues with the DVO air shock, except it was totally unusable because of it hitting and crushing the shift cable.

    The X2 has a shorter piggyback and doesn't hit. The 230x57.5 that Trek sends with the bike is a 230x65 with a 5 + 2.5 mm spacer. When I took both spacers out (65 mm stroke) the seatstay bridge would hit the back of the seat tube when in the Low Mino link setting, but not touch the cables as you have shown with the cane creek.

    I put the 5 mm spacer back in, running the X2 at 60 mm and no clearance issues anywhere.

  60. #1160
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    You can also run the DPX2 with no problems at all - I am loving this shock on this bike - great all-around performance

    2017 Trek Slash details-file-feb-14-10-36-31-pm.jpg

  61. #1161
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimarin View Post
    How you guys running 60mm stroke shocks doing? Any issues?
    https://youtu.be/Y_-CUYDYyTc The DHX2 @ 60mm has clearance to the cables no problem even after the bump stop. Seat stay bridge looks adequate as well. I also made a quick spacer that sits below the bump stop to get the shock back to stock stroke just to see if I notice any difference. EDIT: Bike is an XL 21.5 also.

    Sure feels good on the Coil front and rear!

  62. #1162
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    Thanks for all the feedback guys. The EXT piggyback isn’t all that long. Pretty sure it will clear but I’ll measure it vs my x2 to confirm. Sweet, nothing wrong with a little extra travel.

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    That’s it, I’m going coil! DHX2 it is!
    Can someone please help me with what hardware I need?
    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/col...hock-parts/fox

    Or do I need some special parts directly from Trek?


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    Quote Originally Posted by Yeti83 View Post
    That’s it, I’m going coil! DHX2 it is!
    Can someone please help me with what hardware I need?
    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/col...hock-parts/fox

    Or do I need some special parts directly from Trek?


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    What shock do you have now? Its the same hardware as the Float X2 I just re-used mine. If you have a thru shaft shock you will also need the 2017 style upper and lower shock bolts.

  65. #1165
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmaxxd View Post
    What shock do you have now? Its the same hardware as the Float X2 I just re-used mine. If you have a thru shaft shock you will also need the 2017 style upper and lower shock bolts.
    I have the X2 today but would like new hardware so both shocks are complete. I could (but this is Internet ) measure myself later tonight but thought if someone knew straight from the head.


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  66. #1166
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yeti83 View Post
    I have the X2 today but would like new hardware so both shocks are complete. I could (but this is Internet ) measure myself later tonight but thought if someone knew straight from the head.


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    Go on Trek's online chat and ask for the exploded diagram for the suspension pivots bearings etc. It has the product codes for all hardware required

  67. #1167
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    If someone else is looking for mounting hardware it’s Trek #525244 for the lower part of the shock & Fox M10x59,94 (803-03-231) for the upper part.


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    So I have to replace my frame bearings, *again*. That's 5 months they've lasted. Is anyone else having such poor lifespan from theirs?

    Am I just riding like a gimp and putting undue stress on them? I've think it's unlikely as it's a burly bike and I'm only 72 kg. I'm not throwing sick whips and landing sideways either.

    Bike gets washed and cleaned after each ride too

  69. #1169
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    Quote Originally Posted by icantride View Post
    Bike gets washed and cleaned after each ride too
    Depending on how ur doing it, could it be the frequent washing that is causing them to wear out? I've always subscribed to the clean but don't wash approach to FS bikes

  70. #1170
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    Quote Originally Posted by skyno View Post
    Depending on how ur doing it, could it be the frequent washing that is causing them to wear out? I've always subscribed to the clean but don't wash approach to FS bikes
    Could be, I had that thought, every ride was a bit of an exaggeration, every time it's filthy is more appropriate. In the UK I don't think you could get away with not washing it.

    Thing is I had a specialized enduro that went 4 years with the same washing regime before needing the bearings replacing

  71. #1171
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    Quote Originally Posted by icantride View Post
    So I have to replace my frame bearings, *again*. That's 5 months they've lasted. Is anyone else having such poor lifespan from theirs?

    Am I just riding like a gimp and putting undue stress on them? I've think it's unlikely as it's a burly bike and I'm only 72 kg. I'm not throwing sick whips and landing sideways either.

    Bike gets washed and cleaned after each ride too
    Never had an issue with bearings on any of my Trek FS bikes, 2 Remedys and on my 2nd Slash.

    I've never had an issue with washing them either, but you want to be gentle with the hose and keep pressures low.

    I hope your local dealer can solve the problem, there must be something going on.

  72. #1172
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    Quote Originally Posted by davec113 View Post
    Never had an issue with bearings on any of my Trek FS bikes, 2 Remedys and on my 2nd Slash.

    I've never had an issue with washing them either, but you want to be gentle with the hose and keep pressures low.

    I hope your local dealer can solve the problem, there must be something going on.
    Yeah it gets a sponge wash and a light hose rinse so I'm reasonably confident I'm not pushing water past the seals. I'll drop it with the shop for them to have a look. I'll have them keep the old bearings so we can open them and see how they look inside

  73. #1173
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    Quote Originally Posted by icantride View Post
    So I have to replace my frame bearings, *again*. That's 5 months they've lasted. Is anyone else having such poor lifespan from theirs?

    Am I just riding like a gimp and putting undue stress on them? I've think it's unlikely as it's a burly bike and I'm only 72 kg. I'm not throwing sick whips and landing sideways either.

    Bike gets washed and cleaned after each ride too
    My first round of bearings went pretty quick. I think if you are riding wet conditions they don't last all that well. I had my nomad for years and never had to change them.

  74. #1174
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigwhls View Post
    My XL 9.8 arrived at the shop today, hope to have the build finished by Thursday.

    Fox 36 Performance Elite with Push ACS-3 coil kit orange factory decals
    EXT Storia LOK, custom valved, 230x60....long shocking the extra 2.5mm
    Renthal Apex 35 40mm
    Renthal FatBar Lite Carbon 35
    SRAM Guide Ultimate brakeset with orange Hope 180 floating rotors f/r
    Orange Lizard Skinz DSP grips
    Wolftooth RE:Mote dropper lever
    Fox Transfer 150 Performance series
    Bontrager Kovee carbon saddle
    Race Face SL G4 cranks with RF power meter spindle, AB 32t elliptical DM ring, orange crank booties
    Hope stainless PF41 bb
    HT T1 pedals orange
    XX1 Eagle drivetrain with black chain
    Ibis carbon 935 rims/I9 Torch boost orange hubset/orange rim decals
    Schwalbe Rock Razor Addix Speedgrip 2.35 rear tire
    Schwalbe Magic Mary Addix Soft 2.35 front tire

    The goal is sub 29lbs with f/r coils and pedals.....
    Sold
    Last edited by bigwhls; 03-06-2018 at 08:37 AM.

  75. #1175
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    Quote Originally Posted by icantride View Post
    So I have to replace my frame bearings, *again*. That's 5 months they've lasted. Is anyone else having such poor lifespan from theirs?

    Am I just riding like a gimp and putting undue stress on them? I've think it's unlikely as it's a burly bike and I'm only 72 kg. I'm not throwing sick whips and landing sideways either.

    Bike gets washed and cleaned after each ride too
    So, which bearings needed replacement?

    Don't ask why I want to know...

    I love the bike but if the shocks and bearings can't outlast my super-fast-wearing Maxxis Tomahawk rear tire it's a problem! This is getting to be a bit much after being on my 3rd shock, which doesn't seem to hold air now, so 4th shock and 2nd set of bearing while still on my 1st rear tire. Not good...

    Has anyone else had bearing issues and if so did you use different bearings than stock and had them last?

  76. #1176
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    I’m starting to think your rear end is misaligned. Thats why u going through shocks and bearings left and right!!! Change out that bent Aluminum chainstay ASAP

  77. #1177
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    Quote Originally Posted by davec113 View Post
    So, which bearings needed replacement?

    Don't ask why I want to know...

    I love the bike but if the shocks and bearings can't outlast my super-fast-wearing Maxxis Tomahawk rear tire it's a problem! This is getting to be a bit much after being on my 3rd shock, which doesn't seem to hold air now, so 4th shock and 2nd set of bearing while still on my 1st rear tire. Not good...

    Has anyone else had bearing issues and if so did you use different bearings than stock and had them last?
    This time round it was only the lower frame bearings that had seized. The rest were all fine when they checked. I just use enduro bearings, whether or not they're the same as the stock ones I'm not sure, they are an uncommon size so there don't seem to be many alternative makes.

  78. #1178
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwzimmer View Post
    I’m starting to think your rear end is misaligned. Thats why u going through shocks and bearings left and right!!! Change out that bent Aluminum chainstay ASAP
    My bike has carbon chainstays. I do not see any misalignment, but I wish I did as it would be a solution.

    I asked my LBS to ask Trek to get me the X2 shock to replace the Rock Shox. If 3rd time wasn't the charm I'm not sure I want to try a 4th one.

  79. #1179
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    Quote Originally Posted by icantride View Post
    This time round it was only the lower frame bearings that had seized. The rest were all fine when they checked. I just use enduro bearings, whether or not they're the same as the stock ones I'm not sure, they are an uncommon size so there don't seem to be many alternative makes.
    Ok, thanks... will probably have to check them all anyways. Enduro is probably the best way to go, I hope they hold up for you this time.

  80. #1180
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    Quote Originally Posted by davec113 View Post
    My bike has carbon chainstays. I do not see any misalignment, but I wish I did as it would be a solution.

    I asked my LBS to ask Trek to get me the X2 shock to replace the Rock Shox. If 3rd time wasn't the charm I'm not sure I want to try a 4th one.
    Are you on a 2017 with the super deluxe or a 2018 with the thru shaft?

  81. #1181
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    Quote Originally Posted by icantride View Post
    Are you on a 2017 with the super deluxe or a 2018 with the thru shaft?
    '18...

  82. #1182
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    Quote Originally Posted by davec113 View Post
    '18...
    They did have production issues with those, but it was the damper that was giving up not the air can. Either way an X2 will be an improvement

  83. #1183
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    Its not unheard of to have misaligned carbon chainstay, frame, or Evo link. I’ve seen shocks blow due to excessive side loads or torsion caused by this. Sometimes even an offset bushing can jack up your shock.

  84. #1184
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    Quote Originally Posted by icantride View Post
    They did have production issues with those, but it was the damper that was giving up not the air can. Either way an X2 will be an improvement
    There was a seal that has been a common issue, that was the problem with #1... #2 had an issue with a different seal or o-ring... #3 is leaking air very slowly like my Monarch Debonair on my 27.5 Slash did.

    I think the X2 will make the sus more active but possibly less efficient. We will see if Trek decides to replace the RS with the X2. I'm open to that at this point...

  85. #1185
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    Quote Originally Posted by davec113 View Post
    My bike has carbon chainstays. I do not see any misalignment, but I wish I did as it would be a solution.

    I asked my LBS to ask Trek to get me the X2 shock to replace the Rock Shox. If 3rd time wasn't the charm I'm not sure I want to try a 4th one.
    Why would trek replace your rockshox shock? Your shop needs to talk to rockshox.

  86. #1186
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    Quote Originally Posted by josh8 View Post
    Why would trek replace your rockshox shock? Your shop needs to talk to rockshox.
    Trek is responsible for the $3700 frame I purchased, which includes the shock. There is a Fox X2 which is specifically designed for this frame and may be more reliable vs the RS. After 3 failures that happened right off the bat I think asking for a different shock is totally reasonable.

  87. #1187
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    Quote Originally Posted by davec113 View Post
    Trek is responsible for the $3700 frame I purchased, which includes the shock. There is a Fox X2 which is specifically designed for this frame and may be more reliable vs the RS. After 3 failures that happened right off the bat I think asking for a different shock is totally reasonable.
    It sounds to me like you are barking up the wrong tree but ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

  88. #1188
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    Quote Originally Posted by josh8 View Post
    It sounds to me like you are barking up the wrong tree but ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
    So when your car breaks down under warranty and the broken part says "Nippon Denso" do you call Japan or take your car to the local dealer? Just curious...

  89. #1189
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    I'd push for a x2 replacement. Think someone else in this thread was successful with this.

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    I don't have an X2, but I have read it has a lower pressure limit than the RS. If you are a heavy rider, you may need to consider this. Personally, if I were asking bike shop to give me a different shock to replace a chronically failing RS, I would probably request a DPX2...

  91. #1191
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    Quote Originally Posted by Briareos View Post
    I don't have an X2, but I have read it has a lower pressure limit than the RS. If you are a heavy rider, you may need to consider this. Personally, if I were asking bike shop to give me a different shock to replace a chronically failing RS, I would probably request a DPX2...
    I have one with Slash tune in interested. 2 rides new.

  92. #1192
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    Get a Coil shock. Hard to go back to air unless you do tons of huge drops

  93. #1193
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    Quote Originally Posted by davec113 View Post
    So when your car breaks down under warranty and the broken part says "Nippon Denso" do you call Japan or take your car to the local dealer? Just curious...
    Bike Industry ≠ Car Industry.

  94. #1194
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    The slop ended up being the bolt that holds the rocker to the frame. I had checked all pivots quickly, and finding none loose asked the shop to check it out. They removed this bolt, cleaned it, replaced it and it solved the problem. Much better than new bearings! I'm not sure exactly why it solved the issue, but this is one thing to check.

  95. #1195
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    https://www.pinkbike.com/news/first-...lyrik-rc2.html

    New Red Lyrik is out. I wonder how the Red fork looks on a Red Slash? Some photos look like an exact red but others look like a slightly darker red?

    Anyways it looks like its a pretty good performer!! If i were to get one, i’d consider a 42mm offset rather than 51mm. Anybody try a Slash with less offset?

  96. #1196
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    I have a fox converted to 44 and it's legit. I don't have a ton of time on it, but seems very good on that bike in the high mode imo. Front didn't feel floppy and front end traction was such that I remembered after the first ride that I didn't think aobut the front end if that makes any sense. Worth a try for sure.

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    So with less offset, the bike has a shorter wheelbase and is slacker right? How does it climb? Any wandering? I read it slows down the steering?

    What are the negatives compared to the 51?

  98. #1198
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    I measured about 47.75" wb, but very unscientifically to say the least. Not sure about it being any slacker with less offset, but it actually seemed less floppy and I didn't have any issues climbing. The steering didn't feel slower to me and if anything felt more controlled. Maybe that's from slower steering? I have the same fork on my Yeti SB5.5 and no issues over stock. I did order a -1 degree works headset to try soon making it 65.6 which is bassically what the slash is. It actually steepens the sa a tad and lengthens the wb so those will both be positives for me. For reference both of the bikes are larges.

  99. #1199
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    Quote Originally Posted by SX450 View Post
    ^^^ I'm on a 19.5 as well and have the BikeYoke 160 and love it.
    Are you able to slam the post all the way?

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    I am most likely going to purchase a 2018 9.8 in the next month but I am wondering about the thrushaft out back. Reading through this forum, it seems like people have had a lot of durability issues. Should I just swap it out immediately? I have heard that they ride pretty well when working but I don't know if it will match my X2..

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