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Thread: 2013 rumblefish

  1. #251
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    Anybody tried schwalbe hans dampf's on a rumblefish. I'm thinking about switching out to some because the bonty's aren't great in the wet conditions of Wales

  2. #252
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    got my front forks back. i can now see a small difference in the CTD settings, but like others have said, there is no real lock out. Haven't tested on any demanding rides yet so time will tell.

    They also replaced my front wheel to a rhythm pro instead of the rhythm elite that comes standard because of the weak weld that clicks every rotation. I now have mismatched wheels which sh*ts me. Anyone have any thoughts on the pro's? good upgrade? if so, i'm going to grill them to give me the rear as well. Otherwise i'll ask for my elite back and put up with the clicking.

  3. #253
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    Hi grundy. I cant comment on the hans dampfs, but I have just put some bontrager 29-4s on my elite. Had a quick blast round my wet and very muddy local woods yesterday and so far I've been very impressed. They grip well & don't get too clogged.
    Oh, and the reverb is awesome! :-)

  4. #254
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    I just picked up my 2013 Rumblefish Pro this past Saturday. I can't wait to ride it, but unfortunatly I'm in Minnesota so it will be a few months before that happens.

  5. #255
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    You'll love the pro mate. Cracking bike

  6. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tk80 View Post
    got my front forks back. i can now see a small difference in the CTD settings, but like others have said, there is no real lock out. Haven't tested on any demanding rides yet so time will tell.
    This confuses me. There is a huge difference when i change settings. Climb, while not a full lock out, is so damned close it might as well be. Trail is a solid single track hauling ass setting. Descend on front and rear is a very noticeably plusher ride.

    I didnt expect the 3 settings to be as different as they are. I just wish there was a remote that activated front and rear with a thumb click.

  7. #257
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    I found an amazing deal on a "take off" 2013 Fox CTD 34mm chassis Talus 110-140mm fork and just added a dropper post. It has a 2.4 Purgatory front tire and 2.2 Captain rear tire (tubeless of course), ergon grips and a flat carbon bar really smoothed the hand vibes. I blew the seals on the original fork in 4 months. It seems like the tubes were binding from flex. I was getting black sticky goo on the stanctions. Thing just EATS trails now. Might try a slightly shorter stem and would love a Type-2 read derailleur along with some all mountain carbon hoops.

    2012 Rumblefish Elite, 2015 Minnesota 2 Fatbike, 2010 Superfly 100 Carbon, 2014 CAAD 10 roadie

  8. #258
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    Re: 2013 rumblefish

    Quote Originally Posted by twowheelfunman View Post
    I found an amazing deal on a "take off" 2013 Fox CTD 34mm chassis Talus 110-140mm fork and just added a dropper post. It has a 2.4 Purgatory front tire and 2.2 Captain rear tire (tubeless of course), ergon grips and a flat carbon bar really smoothed the hand vibes. I blew the seals on the original fork in 4 months. It seems like the tubes were binding from flex. I was getting black sticky goo on the stanctions. Thing just EATS trails now. Might try a slightly shorter stem and would love a Type-2 read derailleur along with some all mountain carbon hoops.

    How did.the 140mm fork affect the handling of the bike?

  9. #259
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    Glad I got the Talus to lower the front end for climbing. It's very stable on the downhills when opened up to 140. I noticed the slacker head angle and stiffer front end. I clocked in at 32.1mph on loose, rocky singletrack the other day.

  10. #260
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    Just Curious does anyone here know what size bottom bracket the rumblefish has Trek just tells me its press fit. Just need to know if its BB86 or BB90 wanting to swap out the Scram Crank to a XT crank.

  11. #261
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    It's BB90

  12. #262
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    Hi guys, anybody thought of switching to a double chainset? The reason I ask is because I never find my self using the big ring. Thinking about a 38 24 setup.
    /discuss

  13. #263
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    Finally got Trek tech guy to respond about the bottom bracket in the 2013 rumblefish, he gave me both Shimano part # SM-BB91-41A and Trek part number# 419087.

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    Quote Originally Posted by grundy1973 View Post
    I never find my self using the big ring.
    !!!???

    These words, i dont even....

  15. #265
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    I just ditched my third ring and put a BBG bash in place of it, BTW I am running a 22/32 on my 2010 RF One.
    Here in the Pacific NW around Portland Oregon we have hills like Ape Canyon up to Mount Saint Helens where you will never touch the third ring but I will say if you do you are a Gorilla and props to you.

  16. #266
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    Hello fellow riders!

    I've been looking at the rumblefish for a while now but Im now sure which size that would fit me the best. Im 1.92 meters tall with a 92 cm inseam, shall I go for size 21 or the 23?

  17. #267
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    Hey

    The 23" is massive! - I had a 23" 2012 RF Elite which I sold because it was just a bit to big to ride confidently. I've now got a 21" 2013 RF Pro on order - due in a few weeks!

    I'm 6'4" with 35" inseam. Currently I'm riding a 21" Spec Carve pro - the 23" Carve was also too big for me.

    Hope that helps ....

  18. #268
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    woohhh! ordered mine today and was told ill get it next Wednesday. yes, 2/27/13 and yes, quite unbelievable specially when i read lot of posts that there has been orders from Oct. 2012 and are yet to be delivered, so im not really giving Wednesday all hope but i just thought a good deal @$4K OUT THE DOOR was i thought i good deal. so excited...

    Never thought id look forward to having the week start early.
    Last edited by bapski; 02-24-2013 at 06:14 PM.
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  19. #269
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    I'm 6 ft 3 and ride a 21" rumblefish pro 2013. Fits like a glove. Perfect and love it

  20. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by grundy1973 View Post
    Hi guys, anybody thought of switching to a double chainset? The reason I ask is because I never find my self using the big ring. Thinking about a 38 24 setup.
    /discuss
    I can't stand chain slap and am not buying a clutch r.der until my current one breaks so I'm still using the big ring as a getto chain tensioner for the downhills.

    Looking forward to getting a new r.der and a double ring crank so I stop hitting the big ring on rock drop off's (the slow crawl types).
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  21. #271
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    Anyone have a weight on the RF Elite in stock form? I rode the Pro at a trek demo but that is out of my price range. I am concidering the SF 100 AL elite or the RF Elite. I am now on a 2011 Fuel EX 8. One of the Trek demo guys says the RF only weighs about a pound more than the comperable SF 100. Anyone concider the Superfly 100 AL Elite before buying the RF? I would really like to see the Race Face crank that is on the 2013 Stache 8 on a RF Elite. That green would be great. After the demo I was really impressed with the shimano plus derailers also. Just have some concerns the RF may be too much bike for my area. BTW I was really impressed with the 29-3 tires.
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  22. #272
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    Re: 2013 rumblefish

    Quote Originally Posted by stygz1 View Post
    Anyone have a weight on the RF Elite in stock form? I rode the Pro at a trek demo but that is out of my price range. I am concidering the SF 100 AL elite or the RF Elite. I am now on a 2011 Fuel EX 8. One of the Trek demo guys says the RF only weighs about a pound more than the comperable SF 100. Anyone concider the Superfly 100 AL Elite before buying the RF? I would really like to see the Race Face crank that is on the 2013 Stache 8 on a RF Elite. That green would be great. After the demo I was really impressed with the shimano plus derailers also. Just have some concerns the RF may be too much bike for my area. BTW I was really impressed with the 29-3 tires.
    I rode the base superfly100 and I think it felt considerably lighter than the fish, but I liked the geometry of the fish better. I have the elite in a 17.5 and while I haven't weighed it...I would guess 29-30 lbs. I put a reverb on mine that adds weight too.

    If you rode the pro and liked it, then you'll like the elite as well. I couldn't justify the difference in price...but after riding the pro, I did have to get the reverb post.

  23. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by stygz1 View Post
    Anyone have a weight on the RF Elite in stock form? I rode the Pro at a trek demo but that is out of my price range. I am concidering the SF 100 AL elite or the RF Elite. I am now on a 2011 Fuel EX 8. One of the Trek demo guys says the RF only weighs about a pound more than the comperable SF 100. Anyone concider the Superfly 100 AL Elite before buying the RF? I would really like to see the Race Face crank that is on the 2013 Stache 8 on a RF Elite. That green would be great. After the demo I was really impressed with the shimano plus derailers also. Just have some concerns the RF may be too much bike for my area. BTW I was really impressed with the 29-3 tires.
    I had the LBS weigh my RF Elite when I bought it - 31.10 lbs w/o pedals.

  24. #274
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    Re: 2013 rumblefish

    Quote Originally Posted by stygz1 View Post
    Anyone have a weight on the RF Elite in stock form? I rode the Pro at a trek demo but that is out of my price range. I am concidering the SF 100 AL elite or the RF Elite. I am now on a 2011 Fuel EX 8. One of the Trek demo guys says the RF only weighs about a pound more than the comperable SF 100. Anyone concider the Superfly 100 AL Elite before buying the RF? I would really like to see the Race Face crank that is on the 2013 Stache 8 on a RF Elite. That green would be great. After the demo I was really impressed with the shimano plus derailers also. Just have some concerns the RF may be too much bike for my area. BTW I was really impressed with the 29-3 tires.
    I have the 19 and it weighs 30.5# with pedals.

    Quote Originally Posted by Deko View Post
    I had the LBS weigh my RF Elite when I bought it - 31.10 lbs w/o pedals.
    WTF?

  25. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by Q-TECH View Post
    I have the 19 and it weighs 30.5# with pedals.

    WTF?
    There are conciderable differences in scales. For comparison it is best to weigh the difference in bikes using the same scale. But I take what I can get for info. I know my EX8 stock with pedals came in at 28.5. I did seem to notice a conciderable feeling of less weight on the SF100. Probably not much on the scale but more of a feeling of more agility. The guy at the bike expo that works for the Trek demo team has a RF that weighs 23lbs.
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  26. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by Q-TECH View Post
    I have the 19 and it weighs 30.5# with pedals.

    WTF?
    As said above - scale calibration, reflectors, stupid plastic disc behind cassette...also, stock was not tubeless. I had them weigh it before rolling it out the door.

    1st things to do are (i) swap the cassette and (ii) convert to tubeless; the stock cassette is an anchor. You can drop 0.5 lbs by switching to an XT cassette.

  27. #277
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    got a call from my LBS to pick up my RF PRO. WOW! was not expecting it till tomorrow... can't wait to ride....
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  28. #278
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    Great news Bapski. You'll love it its a great bike. I love mine

  29. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by grundy1973 View Post
    Great news Bapski. You'll love it its a great bike. I love mine
    i know.. if only i can just stop staring at it and ride it...... darn WINTER.. .
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  30. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thustlewhumber View Post
    Just reading through this thread and had to comment.

    I have a 2011 Rumblefish 1 (comparable to an Elite) with almost 1800 miles on it. I am 5'11" and ride a 19.5" frame. I put a 20t front chainring on, SLX /IceTech brake upgrade (from Elixer 5's), and replaced the worn out tires.

    This is undoubtedly one of the best bikes I have ever ridden. I rode my Fuel EX today just for kicks, and it is SLOWwww compared to the fish. The 'fish handles better, is more stable, rolls longer, and is just overall a better bike. If you are on the fence for it, just get it. You wont regret it.
    Ditto.

    I also have a 2011 Rumblefish with 6700 miles on it. I changed out the brakes to SLX’s as well. The Elixer’s never performed the way I thought they should, constantly having to be adjusted, unnecessary squeaking, etc. I also replaced the rear derailleur and shifters with an X0 set after wearing out the X7 including a few crashes. I also had my LBS change out all the suspension bushings last month. What a difference. The bike has it’s natural flow back. Most recently my front bearing has given out and I’m going to a Stans Flow 29 rim. Will do the same with the rear wheel eventually. Don’t like a mismatched wheel set, but economic times prevail. Other than that; several chain, cassette, and tire changes later, I’m still enjoying the bike immensely. I’m envious of all the 2013 buyers!
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  31. #281
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    has anyone here USED or IS CONSIDERING (like me) using a CTD REMOTE for both front and rear? from what i've read and understand, the factory shocks are not REMOTE compatible and may need to be MODIFIED?
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  32. #282
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    A remote would be lovely. Ive adapted to reaching down and changing settings on the fly, but yes.... i want a remote.

  33. #283
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    Are you even supposed to move the CTD settings with weight on them? On my Pro Pedal shock I thought I read in the manual not to switch from open to Pro Pedal when shock is compressed/has weight on it.
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  34. #284
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    Straight out the shop, just added some DMR Vaults and went to the woods. Only had an hour to play so will have to wait till next weekend for a proper shake-down.

    Rides nice!
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  35. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulX View Post
    Straight out the shop, just added some DMR Vaults and went to the woods. Only had an hour to play so will have to wait till next weekend for a proper shake-down.

    Rides nice!
    Great lookin bike, just like mine same pedals too!

  36. #286
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    almost done setting up my RF PRO.

    took the plunge and set it up tubeless, M540 pedals and is at 28.82 lbs. all that is left for me to do is fine tune the shock and fork and put some ISC Racerstape and then pray that weather permits me to ride this coming Saturday.

    also, should anyone here consider a tubeless setup and is having a hard time looking for the TUBELESS RIM STRIP, its actually PART # 406892. I am stating this as i almost bought the wrong strip.

    also, for the less initiated like me, setting up tubeless at first was very daunting and i almost gave up due to frustration. the tire bead will not just mount only to realize my mistake.

    i should have mounted the tire with the rim's CORE VALVE at the 12 o'clock position, then start mounting the tires from the 6 o'clock position and working on both sides of the tire until you get to the 12 o'clock position where the CORE VALVE is.

    after i figured this out setting up the rear wheel was easy. of course until i noticed that i mounted the front tire DIRECTION the wrong way...

    hope this helps.
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  37. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by bapski View Post

    after i figured this out setting up the rear wheel was easy. of course until i noticed that i mounted the front tire DIRECTION the wrong way...

    hope this helps.
    Depending on the tire, this may not be a bad thing. Many reverse direction on their front tires.
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  38. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarguy View Post
    Depending on the tire, this may not be a bad thing. Many reverse direction on their front tires.
    that was what i was initially thinking as ive read post where people would intentionally mount their tires on a reverse direction and specially after i thought id have a heart attack trying to pump air on the darn wheel with nothing happening and for me to re-do the whole process again.

    but again, less initiated as i am just wanted to eliminate blaming myself should something happen with the tire mounted wrong..
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  39. #289
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    "I was working from home on Tuesday" which really meant I was blasting round the woods in Cheshire (UK) on my RF Pro giving it a proper shakedown ride. Did about 25 miles - spent the first 15 miles changing seat angles, handlebars & lever positions, air pressures etc and once I'd got it feeling right I had real blast on it. Its plush, smooth and not outrageously heavy but the weight is noticable over my hard-tail. DMR Vaults are very grippy.

    Got home and pulled a massive thorn out of the tyre and so my tubeless conversion thoughts were brought forward ...

    Quote Originally Posted by bapski View Post
    also, should anyone here consider a tubeless setup and is having a hard time looking for the TUBELESS RIM STRIP, its actually PART # 406892. I am stating this as i almost bought the wrong strip.
    I spoke to my LBS yesterday and they said the wheels are tubeless ready so I don't need to change the rims strips. Just put some valves in and pump 'em up they said.

    So I got some Stans universal valves which say they are for "Bontrager tubeless ready rims and wheels with Bontrager Tubeless ready rims trip", and I've got 2/3rds of a bottle of Siime Pro left over from when the shop converted my Carve Pro.

    Quote Originally Posted by bapski View Post
    i should have mounted the tire with the rim's CORE VALVE at the 12 o'clock position, then start mounting the tires from the 6 o'clock position and working on both sides of the tire until you get to the 12 o'clock position where the CORE VALVE is.
    Good advice - cheers. I'll give it a go .... what could possible go wrong….

  40. #290
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulX View Post
    "I was working from home on Tuesday" which really meant I was blasting round the woods in Cheshire (UK) on my RF Pro giving it a proper shakedown ride. Did about 25 miles - spent the first 15 miles changing seat angles, handlebars & lever positions, air pressures etc and once I'd got it feeling right I had real blast on it. Its plush, smooth and not outrageously heavy but the weight is noticable over my hard-tail. DMR Vaults are very grippy.

    Got home and pulled a massive thorn out of the tyre and so my tubeless conversion thoughts were brought forward ...



    I spoke to my LBS yesterday and they said the wheels are tubeless ready so I don't need to change the rims strips. Just put some valves in and pump 'em up they said.

    So I got some Stans universal valves which say they are for "Bontrager tubeless ready rims and wheels with Bontrager Tubeless ready rims trip", and I've got 2/3rds of a bottle of Siime Pro left over from when the shop converted my Carve Pro.



    Good advice - cheers. I'll give it a go .... what could possible go wrong….
    yes the wheels are tubeless ready but you'd have to use a tubeless strip. you may want to check if the strip is anything but BLACK in color, then i guess you would have to double check if what you have in place is indeed a tubeless strip. i guess you'd know when you start to setting up your wheels.. obviously, i dont think your wheel will hold air if you do not have a tubeless strip in place..
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  41. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by bapski View Post
    yes the wheels are tubeless ready but you'd have to use a tubeless strip. you may want to check if the strip is anything but BLACK in color, then i guess you would have to double check if what you have in place is indeed a tubeless strip. i guess you'd know when you start to setting up your wheels.. obviously, i dont think your wheel will hold air if you do not have a tubeless strip in place..
    Just done the front one, battled a bit to get it pop against the rim so I put a tube in first to get it to sit on one side. I had to use my small compressor to pump enough air in and then eventually the tyre popped against the other side of the rim. Then used the floor pump to put 40psi in.

    I added some sealant and I think you are probably right about the rim strips - which are grey in colour. I did get some minor blowing of sealant around the spoke holes but this seems to have stopped.

    I leave it overnight and see if it holds before I tackle the rear ...

  42. #292
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    does anyone here who own the RF PRO use a TOP TUBE adapter to transport it? i've used a SARIS before and it at times would unlock so i decided to try out the YAKIMA top tube adapter as i thought the locking mechanism was secure.

    my question is, with the way how the RF PRO will be mounted on a bike rack using a TOP TUBE ADAPTER, aside from possibly chipping paint, will this damage the REVERB seat post since the bike will be hanging/suspended on the bike rack?

    thanks
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  43. #293
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    Could you fit the top tube adaptor just under the qr seat clamp on the actual bike frame. This would avoid damaging the reverb. But it could damage your frame

  44. #294
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    Quote Originally Posted by grundy1973 View Post
    Could you fit the top tube adaptor just under the qr seat clamp on the actual bike frame. This would avoid damaging the reverb. But it could damage your frame
    with the YAKIMA its quite a strugggle trying to fit it in, with the SARIS, it has a wide opening which might slip through the QR seatpost and ram against the saddle.. will just to figure out a way where the tube adapter gets mounted firmly.

    today looks like a good day for my RF's maiden ride... wahooo...
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    Finally had the opportunity to get her dirty today. although the ride was short ( a 5 minute trip to the barbershop and a lap around the sub) i was dumbfounded and bewildered!

    i was expecting to experience heavy pedaling based on reviews, posts about how the SF PRO is on the heavy side but this was not the case. i thought the SF PRO was nimble, quite agile (i was not expecting this!) and light. i even think it was more easier to ride than my HT SF AL ELITE.

    can't wait to try her out on the trail.
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    Last edited by bapski; 03-13-2013 at 08:41 PM.
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  46. #296
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    Rollin on an elite, and it has never felt heavy to me.

    I know the weight weenies would have a fit with the 30+ weigh in.... non issue as far as i am concerned. I have CRUSHED many PRs in the last 2 months, and my last bike was in the 27lb range.

  47. #297
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    $15 solution to $300 dollar dillema

    i may have found a solution to my earlier dillema. i use a THULE bike rack to transport my bikes. with the RF PRO's $300 Reverb seatpost i may damage the seatpost while it is being suspended on the bike rack using a YAKIMA tube adapter.

    went to REI and got a caribener
    Black Diamond FreeWire Quickdraw Set at REI.com

    and, what i think is called a runner.
    Black Diamond 18mm Nylon Runners at REI.com

    you can actually use any other caribener but chose the SET since its cheaper. i looped the runner around the end part of the top tube, then put the caribener on each end and hooked it up to the YAKIMA TOP TUBE.



    and the result:

    Last edited by bapski; 03-11-2013 at 04:40 AM.
    2014 TREK FARLEY
    2013 TREK RUMBLEFISH PRO
    2012 TREK SUPERFLY AL ELITE

  48. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by bapski View Post
    i may have found a solution to my earlier dillema. i use a THULE bike rack to transport my bikes. with the SF PRO's $300 Reverb seatpost i may damage the seatpost while it is being suspended on the bike rack using a YAKIMA tube adapter.

    went to REI and got a caribener
    Black Diamond FreeWire Quickdraw Set at REI.com

    and, what i think is called a runner.
    Black Diamond 18mm Nylon Runners at REI.com

    you can actually use any other caribener but chose the SET since its cheaper. i looped the runner around the end part of the top tube, then put the caribener on each end and hooked it up to the YAKIMA TOP TUBE.



    and the result:

    You are posting SF as in Superfly but your pics are of a Rumblefish. Do you mean RF not SF?
    2014 Niner RIP 9
    Full XT
    Rock Shox Pike 140
    Roval Control Carbon

  49. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulX View Post
    Just done the front one, battled a bit to get it pop against the rim so I put a tube in first to get it to sit on one side. I had to use my small compressor to pump enough air in and then eventually the tyre popped against the other side of the rim. Then used the floor pump to put 40psi in.

    I added some sealant and I think you are probably right about the rim strips - which are grey in colour. I did get some minor blowing of sealant around the spoke holes but this seems to have stopped.

    I leave it overnight and see if it holds before I tackle the rear ...
    I've been away since Thursday and just checked my tyre - the pressure has held. Does this mean the original rim strip that came with it is OK and tubeless ready?

    Also whats the deal with this little hole in the rim? It doesn't leak any sealant through it but just wondering why its there.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 rumblefish-photo.jpg  


  50. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by stygz1 View Post
    You are posting SF as in Superfly but your pics are of a Rumblefish. Do you mean RF not SF?
    my bad, yes meant RF PRO...
    2014 TREK FARLEY
    2013 TREK RUMBLEFISH PRO
    2012 TREK SUPERFLY AL ELITE

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