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Thread: 2013 rumblefish

  1. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by Q-TECH View Post
    I have the 19 and it weighs 30.5# with pedals.

    WTF?
    As said above - scale calibration, reflectors, stupid plastic disc behind cassette...also, stock was not tubeless. I had them weigh it before rolling it out the door.

    1st things to do are (i) swap the cassette and (ii) convert to tubeless; the stock cassette is an anchor. You can drop 0.5 lbs by switching to an XT cassette.

  2. #277
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    got a call from my LBS to pick up my RF PRO. WOW! was not expecting it till tomorrow... can't wait to ride....
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    2013 TREK RUMBLEFISH PRO
    2012 TREK SUPERFLY AL ELITE

  3. #278
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    Great news Bapski. You'll love it its a great bike. I love mine

  4. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by grundy1973 View Post
    Great news Bapski. You'll love it its a great bike. I love mine
    i know.. if only i can just stop staring at it and ride it...... darn WINTER.. .
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  5. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thustlewhumber View Post
    Just reading through this thread and had to comment.

    I have a 2011 Rumblefish 1 (comparable to an Elite) with almost 1800 miles on it. I am 5'11" and ride a 19.5" frame. I put a 20t front chainring on, SLX /IceTech brake upgrade (from Elixer 5's), and replaced the worn out tires.

    This is undoubtedly one of the best bikes I have ever ridden. I rode my Fuel EX today just for kicks, and it is SLOWwww compared to the fish. The 'fish handles better, is more stable, rolls longer, and is just overall a better bike. If you are on the fence for it, just get it. You wont regret it.
    Ditto.

    I also have a 2011 Rumblefish with 6700 miles on it. I changed out the brakes to SLX’s as well. The Elixer’s never performed the way I thought they should, constantly having to be adjusted, unnecessary squeaking, etc. I also replaced the rear derailleur and shifters with an X0 set after wearing out the X7 including a few crashes. I also had my LBS change out all the suspension bushings last month. What a difference. The bike has it’s natural flow back. Most recently my front bearing has given out and I’m going to a Stans Flow 29 rim. Will do the same with the rear wheel eventually. Don’t like a mismatched wheel set, but economic times prevail. Other than that; several chain, cassette, and tire changes later, I’m still enjoying the bike immensely. I’m envious of all the 2013 buyers!
    2010 Trek Rumblefish
    2013 Trek Cobia

  6. #281
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    has anyone here USED or IS CONSIDERING (like me) using a CTD REMOTE for both front and rear? from what i've read and understand, the factory shocks are not REMOTE compatible and may need to be MODIFIED?
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  7. #282
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    A remote would be lovely. Ive adapted to reaching down and changing settings on the fly, but yes.... i want a remote.

  8. #283
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    Are you even supposed to move the CTD settings with weight on them? On my Pro Pedal shock I thought I read in the manual not to switch from open to Pro Pedal when shock is compressed/has weight on it.
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  9. #284
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    Straight out the shop, just added some DMR Vaults and went to the woods. Only had an hour to play so will have to wait till next weekend for a proper shake-down.

    Rides nice!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 rumblefish-img_0025.jpg  


  10. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulX View Post
    Straight out the shop, just added some DMR Vaults and went to the woods. Only had an hour to play so will have to wait till next weekend for a proper shake-down.

    Rides nice!
    Great lookin bike, just like mine same pedals too!

  11. #286
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    almost done setting up my RF PRO.

    took the plunge and set it up tubeless, M540 pedals and is at 28.82 lbs. all that is left for me to do is fine tune the shock and fork and put some ISC Racerstape and then pray that weather permits me to ride this coming Saturday.

    also, should anyone here consider a tubeless setup and is having a hard time looking for the TUBELESS RIM STRIP, its actually PART # 406892. I am stating this as i almost bought the wrong strip.

    also, for the less initiated like me, setting up tubeless at first was very daunting and i almost gave up due to frustration. the tire bead will not just mount only to realize my mistake.

    i should have mounted the tire with the rim's CORE VALVE at the 12 o'clock position, then start mounting the tires from the 6 o'clock position and working on both sides of the tire until you get to the 12 o'clock position where the CORE VALVE is.

    after i figured this out setting up the rear wheel was easy. of course until i noticed that i mounted the front tire DIRECTION the wrong way...

    hope this helps.
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  12. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by bapski View Post

    after i figured this out setting up the rear wheel was easy. of course until i noticed that i mounted the front tire DIRECTION the wrong way...

    hope this helps.
    Depending on the tire, this may not be a bad thing. Many reverse direction on their front tires.
    2010 Trek Rumblefish
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  13. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarguy View Post
    Depending on the tire, this may not be a bad thing. Many reverse direction on their front tires.
    that was what i was initially thinking as ive read post where people would intentionally mount their tires on a reverse direction and specially after i thought id have a heart attack trying to pump air on the darn wheel with nothing happening and for me to re-do the whole process again.

    but again, less initiated as i am just wanted to eliminate blaming myself should something happen with the tire mounted wrong..
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  14. #289
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    "I was working from home on Tuesday" which really meant I was blasting round the woods in Cheshire (UK) on my RF Pro giving it a proper shakedown ride. Did about 25 miles - spent the first 15 miles changing seat angles, handlebars & lever positions, air pressures etc and once I'd got it feeling right I had real blast on it. Its plush, smooth and not outrageously heavy but the weight is noticable over my hard-tail. DMR Vaults are very grippy.

    Got home and pulled a massive thorn out of the tyre and so my tubeless conversion thoughts were brought forward ...

    Quote Originally Posted by bapski View Post
    also, should anyone here consider a tubeless setup and is having a hard time looking for the TUBELESS RIM STRIP, its actually PART # 406892. I am stating this as i almost bought the wrong strip.
    I spoke to my LBS yesterday and they said the wheels are tubeless ready so I don't need to change the rims strips. Just put some valves in and pump 'em up they said.

    So I got some Stans universal valves which say they are for "Bontrager tubeless ready rims and wheels with Bontrager Tubeless ready rims trip", and I've got 2/3rds of a bottle of Siime Pro left over from when the shop converted my Carve Pro.

    Quote Originally Posted by bapski View Post
    i should have mounted the tire with the rim's CORE VALVE at the 12 o'clock position, then start mounting the tires from the 6 o'clock position and working on both sides of the tire until you get to the 12 o'clock position where the CORE VALVE is.
    Good advice - cheers. I'll give it a go .... what could possible go wrong….

  15. #290
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulX View Post
    "I was working from home on Tuesday" which really meant I was blasting round the woods in Cheshire (UK) on my RF Pro giving it a proper shakedown ride. Did about 25 miles - spent the first 15 miles changing seat angles, handlebars & lever positions, air pressures etc and once I'd got it feeling right I had real blast on it. Its plush, smooth and not outrageously heavy but the weight is noticable over my hard-tail. DMR Vaults are very grippy.

    Got home and pulled a massive thorn out of the tyre and so my tubeless conversion thoughts were brought forward ...



    I spoke to my LBS yesterday and they said the wheels are tubeless ready so I don't need to change the rims strips. Just put some valves in and pump 'em up they said.

    So I got some Stans universal valves which say they are for "Bontrager tubeless ready rims and wheels with Bontrager Tubeless ready rims trip", and I've got 2/3rds of a bottle of Siime Pro left over from when the shop converted my Carve Pro.



    Good advice - cheers. I'll give it a go .... what could possible go wrong….
    yes the wheels are tubeless ready but you'd have to use a tubeless strip. you may want to check if the strip is anything but BLACK in color, then i guess you would have to double check if what you have in place is indeed a tubeless strip. i guess you'd know when you start to setting up your wheels.. obviously, i dont think your wheel will hold air if you do not have a tubeless strip in place..
    2014 TREK FARLEY
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  16. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by bapski View Post
    yes the wheels are tubeless ready but you'd have to use a tubeless strip. you may want to check if the strip is anything but BLACK in color, then i guess you would have to double check if what you have in place is indeed a tubeless strip. i guess you'd know when you start to setting up your wheels.. obviously, i dont think your wheel will hold air if you do not have a tubeless strip in place..
    Just done the front one, battled a bit to get it pop against the rim so I put a tube in first to get it to sit on one side. I had to use my small compressor to pump enough air in and then eventually the tyre popped against the other side of the rim. Then used the floor pump to put 40psi in.

    I added some sealant and I think you are probably right about the rim strips - which are grey in colour. I did get some minor blowing of sealant around the spoke holes but this seems to have stopped.

    I leave it overnight and see if it holds before I tackle the rear ...

  17. #292
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    does anyone here who own the RF PRO use a TOP TUBE adapter to transport it? i've used a SARIS before and it at times would unlock so i decided to try out the YAKIMA top tube adapter as i thought the locking mechanism was secure.

    my question is, with the way how the RF PRO will be mounted on a bike rack using a TOP TUBE ADAPTER, aside from possibly chipping paint, will this damage the REVERB seat post since the bike will be hanging/suspended on the bike rack?

    thanks
    2014 TREK FARLEY
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  18. #293
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    Could you fit the top tube adaptor just under the qr seat clamp on the actual bike frame. This would avoid damaging the reverb. But it could damage your frame

  19. #294
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    Quote Originally Posted by grundy1973 View Post
    Could you fit the top tube adaptor just under the qr seat clamp on the actual bike frame. This would avoid damaging the reverb. But it could damage your frame
    with the YAKIMA its quite a strugggle trying to fit it in, with the SARIS, it has a wide opening which might slip through the QR seatpost and ram against the saddle.. will just to figure out a way where the tube adapter gets mounted firmly.

    today looks like a good day for my RF's maiden ride... wahooo...
    2014 TREK FARLEY
    2013 TREK RUMBLEFISH PRO
    2012 TREK SUPERFLY AL ELITE

  20. #295
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    Finally had the opportunity to get her dirty today. although the ride was short ( a 5 minute trip to the barbershop and a lap around the sub) i was dumbfounded and bewildered!

    i was expecting to experience heavy pedaling based on reviews, posts about how the SF PRO is on the heavy side but this was not the case. i thought the SF PRO was nimble, quite agile (i was not expecting this!) and light. i even think it was more easier to ride than my HT SF AL ELITE.

    can't wait to try her out on the trail.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 rumblefish-dsc00845.jpg  

    2013 rumblefish-dsc00846.jpg  

    2013 rumblefish-dsc00848.jpg  

    2013 rumblefish-dsc00850.jpg  

    2013 rumblefish-dsc00842.jpg  

    2013 rumblefish-dsc00839.jpg  

    2013 rumblefish-dsc00838.jpg  

    Last edited by bapski; 03-13-2013 at 09:41 PM.
    2014 TREK FARLEY
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  21. #296
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    Rollin on an elite, and it has never felt heavy to me.

    I know the weight weenies would have a fit with the 30+ weigh in.... non issue as far as i am concerned. I have CRUSHED many PRs in the last 2 months, and my last bike was in the 27lb range.

  22. #297
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    $15 solution to $300 dollar dillema

    i may have found a solution to my earlier dillema. i use a THULE bike rack to transport my bikes. with the RF PRO's $300 Reverb seatpost i may damage the seatpost while it is being suspended on the bike rack using a YAKIMA tube adapter.

    went to REI and got a caribener
    Black Diamond FreeWire Quickdraw Set at REI.com

    and, what i think is called a runner.
    Black Diamond 18mm Nylon Runners at REI.com

    you can actually use any other caribener but chose the SET since its cheaper. i looped the runner around the end part of the top tube, then put the caribener on each end and hooked it up to the YAKIMA TOP TUBE.



    and the result:

    Last edited by bapski; 03-11-2013 at 05:40 AM.
    2014 TREK FARLEY
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  23. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by bapski View Post
    i may have found a solution to my earlier dillema. i use a THULE bike rack to transport my bikes. with the SF PRO's $300 Reverb seatpost i may damage the seatpost while it is being suspended on the bike rack using a YAKIMA tube adapter.

    went to REI and got a caribener
    Black Diamond FreeWire Quickdraw Set at REI.com

    and, what i think is called a runner.
    Black Diamond 18mm Nylon Runners at REI.com

    you can actually use any other caribener but chose the SET since its cheaper. i looped the runner around the end part of the top tube, then put the caribener on each end and hooked it up to the YAKIMA TOP TUBE.



    and the result:

    You are posting SF as in Superfly but your pics are of a Rumblefish. Do you mean RF not SF?
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  24. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulX View Post
    Just done the front one, battled a bit to get it pop against the rim so I put a tube in first to get it to sit on one side. I had to use my small compressor to pump enough air in and then eventually the tyre popped against the other side of the rim. Then used the floor pump to put 40psi in.

    I added some sealant and I think you are probably right about the rim strips - which are grey in colour. I did get some minor blowing of sealant around the spoke holes but this seems to have stopped.

    I leave it overnight and see if it holds before I tackle the rear ...
    I've been away since Thursday and just checked my tyre - the pressure has held. Does this mean the original rim strip that came with it is OK and tubeless ready?

    Also whats the deal with this little hole in the rim? It doesn't leak any sealant through it but just wondering why its there.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 rumblefish-photo.jpg  


  25. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by stygz1 View Post
    You are posting SF as in Superfly but your pics are of a Rumblefish. Do you mean RF not SF?
    my bad, yes meant RF PRO...
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