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Thread: 2013 rumblefish

  1. #501
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    I love my 2013 Rumblefish Elite, added the Fox dropper post. Next mod will be tubeless tires, not real happy with stock tires that came with it. But this baby can climb plenty more than my legs can I wasnt sure about the color combo either but it has grown on me.
    2013 rumblefish-rumblefish2.jpg
    2013 rumblefish-dropper1.jpg2013 rumblefish-dropper2.jpg

  2. #502
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silverfern View Post
    Ive got a Thomson 70 mm stem and a carbon 730mm low rise bar on the way , I wanted a wider bar , but am rolling the dice a bit on the new length of stem , wanting to sharpen up the steering , bit nervous it may feel a bit cramped though.

    Am currently running 90mm stem and 690 bar that came with the bike.
    I switched out to a 70mm Thomson elite x4. Beautiful bit of kit but I didn't like how the bike handled. The front end seemed to wash out too easily and also became too light on the climbs. That's just me though and probably my poor technique.

    Still love my fish though.
    My changes from stock are:-
    750mm rhythm pro bars (only because I got a bargain off eBay)
    Fizik Gobi XM kium (awesome saddle for my backside)
    ODI grips
    XT iSpec conversion (for nice clean bars)
    Stan's Flow EX wheels with hope pro 2 evo straight pull hubs (pretty bomb proof and super stiff wheel set, probably could've gone for Arch EX though!)
    Shwalbe Hans Dampf tyres (trail star front and pace star rear, amazing grip but would probably advise a nobby Nic on the rear for less rolling resistance)

    Bought my fish pro in dec 2013. The reverb was warrantied as it failed on me but no problems since. Just serviced last week and just needed new gear cables. Still a very happy owner!

    I fishin love it!

  3. #503
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    Abp convert nut

    my bud just bought a 13' elite for a steal ($1500) and up to now, me and him are wondering how the owner sold it so cheap.

    well, till he started to ride it in the trails, we have found minor issues.

    brake squeaking which we have fixed by cleaning the brake pads and rotors with alcohol.

    now, we noticed the ABP CONVERT NUTS loosening up. i know it has to be torqued to 200 in/lb, i have the torque wrench.

    problem is, with how the the ABP NUT is oddly shaped, we are not sure which socket wrench to use.

    i know i've read somewhere they have used a 20mm socket wrench but im unable to find that post and am not really sure if it was for a more recent 2013 ABP CONVERT nut... was at homedepot with the ABP CONVERT nut but couldn't find a 20mm socket wrench, but then again as we tested other sized socket wrench, a 19MM and 21MM, and both seemed to small to fit the the ABP CONVERT NUT which now, makes me doubt a 20mm is what im looking for.

    any insight, link to the post im looking for would be much appreciated.

    thank you in advance
    2014 TREK FARLEY
    2013 TREK RUMBLEFISH PRO
    2012 TREK SUPERFLY AL ELITE

  4. #504
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    Quote Originally Posted by bapski View Post
    my bud just bought a 13' elite for a steal ($1500) and up to now, me and him are wondering how the owner sold it so cheap.

    well, till he started to ride it in the trails, we have found minor issues.

    brake squeaking which we have fixed by cleaning the brake pads and rotors with alcohol.

    now, we noticed the ABP CONVERT NUTS loosening up. i know it has to be torqued to 200 in/lb, i have the torque wrench.

    problem is, with how the the ABP NUT is oddly shaped, we are not sure which socket wrench to use.

    i know i've read somewhere they have used a 20mm socket wrench but im unable to find that post and am not really sure if it was for a more recent 2013 ABP CONVERT nut... was at homedepot with the ABP CONVERT nut but couldn't find a 20mm socket wrench, but then again as we tested other sized socket wrench, a 19MM and 21MM, and both seemed to small to fit the the ABP CONVERT NUT which now, makes me doubt a 20mm is what im looking for.

    any insight, link to the post im looking for would be much appreciated.

    thank you in advance
    anybody?
    2014 TREK FARLEY
    2013 TREK RUMBLEFISH PRO
    2012 TREK SUPERFLY AL ELITE

  5. #505
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    A socket won't work. You need a open end wrench. If you want to go specific torque, you will need what's called a crowsfoot wrench.
    http://Theclydeblog.org Big guy cycling product tester

  6. #506
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    Quote Originally Posted by DukeNeverwinter View Post
    A socket won't work. You need a open end wrench. If you want to go specific torque, you will need what's called a crowsfoot wrench.
    thanks... would you know which size? im still thinking a 20mm is too small? i tried other socket sizes and 15/16 seems to fit.. but not snug. .im just afraid to strip the ABP NUT. .
    2014 TREK FARLEY
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  7. #507
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    Re: 2013 rumblefish

    23Mm wrench non drive side.
    20Mm wrench drive side.


    A SOCKET will not work. You need a wrench


    Honestly, just get an adjustable wrench and just go past hand tight.
    http://Theclydeblog.org Big guy cycling product tester

  8. #508
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    Quote Originally Posted by DukeNeverwinter View Post
    23Mm wrench non drive side.
    20Mm wrench drive side.


    A SOCKET will not work. You need a wrench


    Honestly, just get an adjustable wrench and just go past hand tight.
    thanks.. tried an open wrench and it slipped and stripped outer side of the ABP NUT.. ill just try to cover it with a rag.. thanks again.
    2014 TREK FARLEY
    2013 TREK RUMBLEFISH PRO
    2012 TREK SUPERFLY AL ELITE

  9. #509
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    A socket will work, but I don't recall if it had to be 12pt or 6pt or either. The rounded parts of the nuts are smaller than the flats. I also thought a socket wouldn't work until I saw it happen in a Trek instructional vid.
    Worked at Trek/Fisher dealer 2008-2013. Only a little biased.

  10. #510
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    Quote Originally Posted by blunderbuss View Post
    A socket will work, but I don't recall if it had to be 12pt or 6pt or either. The rounded parts of the nuts are smaller than the flats. I also thought a socket wouldn't work until I saw it happen in a Trek instructional vid.
    interesting.. would you be able to provide me a link of the video? thanks.
    2014 TREK FARLEY
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  11. #511
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    I went and rewatched the vid. It doesn't actually show the tech using the sockets, but he explicitly states to use them, twice. I personally used a 20mm socket on a driveside 135 nut. (had to use an adjustable wrench for the 142 nuts as we didn't have a 23mm in the shop) I can't link the vid, but I can post a screen shot.

    2013 rumblefish-abp1.jpg
    Worked at Trek/Fisher dealer 2008-2013. Only a little biased.

  12. #512
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    worked on the RF ELITE today and id like to confirm it does take a 23mm SOCKET wrench on both drive and non-drive sides. . .

    just in case somebody else comes across this issue.
    2014 TREK FARLEY
    2013 TREK RUMBLEFISH PRO
    2012 TREK SUPERFLY AL ELITE

  13. #513
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    Anyone switched out to a double crank? I picked one up but I need to know if I can just put it on sticking with the current bb, or whether I'll need to replace the bb aswell or mess with bb spacers. I'm switching out from an xt triple to xt double.

  14. #514
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    Quote Originally Posted by grundy1973 View Post
    Anyone switched out to a double crank? I picked one up but I need to know if I can just put it on sticking with the current bb, or whether I'll need to replace the bb aswell or mess with bb spacers. I'm switching out from an xt triple to xt double.
    easier to just replace the big ring with a bash ring and change the middle ring for something like a 36t IMO. Much cheaper too.

    I don't see why doing what you want wouldn't work though, I swapped my elite fish's stock crankset for an SLX M660-10 crankset re-using the stock BB and spacer setup.
    2013 Trek/Gary Fisher Rumblefish Elite XXL/23"
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  15. #515
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    Quote Originally Posted by grundy1973 View Post
    Anyone switched out to a double crank? I picked one up but I need to know if I can just put it on sticking with the current bb, or whether I'll need to replace the bb aswell or mess with bb spacers. I'm switching out from an xt triple to xt double.

    I have a 2013 RF Pro, and swapped out the XT triple for an XT double just as you plan to do. It's a straight swap in that the existing BB can be used without adapters spacers etc. However, it would be wise to replace the front derailleur to a 2x10 specific model. If you've got recent Shimano XT or SLX shifters on the bike, there's a little switch on the underside of the front shifter to allow for double and triple set ups. Just move the switch from the 3 to the 2 position.

  16. #516
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    Excellent, thanks guys. I already have a 2x10 front mech aswell so I'm good to go

  17. #517
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    I'm afraid to say I'm thinking of selling my 2013 Rumblefish. I genuinely don't know how much to ask for it tho. What would you good people ask if you were going to sell yours? It's been looked after reasonably well, always cleaned after rides, but probably could've had more professional servicing (complete strip downs etc)

  18. #518
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    We need to know what level of R-Fish it is and include pics
    2012 Rumblefish Elite, 2015 Minnesota 2 Fatbike, 2010 Superfly 100 Carbon, 2014 CAAD 10 roadie

  19. #519
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    I have a 2012 Rumblefish Elite that has gone through quite a few changes. I went with Ergon grips paired with a flat carbon Niner bar, a 70mm stem, I found a takeoff ($500) 2013 Fox Talas 110-140 34 that I upgraded to the 2014 Fit CTD cartdidge. This totally transormed the performance of the bike! I found that I needed to upgrade the rear rotor to a 180mm rotor as I cooked the stock rotor on the CO Front Range trails.

    I found a Crank Bros dropper post that has worked great for $100. I run a Butcher 2.4 up front and Ikon 2.0 out back. The stem felt too cramped so I went back to the stock 90mm.

    The bike is solid but my mods have added a couple pounds that I would like to shave off by going 1x10 and getting lighter wheels by Summer.
    2012 Rumblefish Elite, 2015 Minnesota 2 Fatbike, 2010 Superfly 100 Carbon, 2014 CAAD 10 roadie

  20. #520
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    Quote Originally Posted by twowheelfunman View Post
    We need to know what level of R-Fish it is and include pics
    Oh yeah, that would be helpful! It's a 2013 RF Elite, 21" frame2013 rumblefish-20131222_135338.jpg
    The reverb dropper and shimano pedals will not be sold with the bike tho, I'm keeping those bad boys!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 rumblefish-20130810_185135.jpg  


  21. #521
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    Isn't there a new bicycles blue book site? I would venture to guess you should expect around 1,600 to maybe 1,800 at best. There are newer designs out for 2014 so our Rumblefish resale kinda sucks. I'm going to keep upgrading mine then keep it long term.
    2012 Rumblefish Elite, 2015 Minnesota 2 Fatbike, 2010 Superfly 100 Carbon, 2014 CAAD 10 roadie

  22. #522
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    I guess you're talking US dollars & not British pounds? I'd like to think (hope?) I'd get around £1400 for it, but is that wishful thinking?

  23. #523
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    Can any of you Rumblefish Pro 2013 owners have a look at what chain is on your bikes please. I just noticed that mine has a KMC chain. I thought it had a shimano one. Thanks.

  24. #524
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    Quote Originally Posted by grundy1973 View Post
    Can any of you Rumblefish Pro 2013 owners have a look at what chain is on your bikes please. I just noticed that mine has a KMC chain. I thought it had a shimano one. Thanks.
    Mine had a KMC chain as well; swapped it for an XT chain when I converted to a double crank from the triple. That being said, KMC makes decent chains; I just prefer having all Shimano components on my bikes.
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  25. #525
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    Quote Originally Posted by Superfuel View Post
    Mine had a KMC chain as well; swapped it for an XT chain when I converted to a double crank from the triple. That being said, KMC makes decent chains; I just prefer having all Shimano components on my bikes.
    Thanks👍

  26. #526
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    Here's an update in regards to my update addiction but the results are fantastic. After adding the FOX 34, dropper post and beefy tires my beloved Rumblefish had turned into a pig while climbing. I just installed lighter tires, American Classic Wide lightning wheels, XO carbon cranks with direct mount Wolfstooth 30t, GC 42t, removed front derailleur & shifter!

    These upgrades have TOTALLY transformed my bike! It is much more lively and not just for downhills anymore!! The wheels hold a line better with the added stiffness and spin up much quicker. LOVE IT!!!

    2012 Rumblefish Elite, 2015 Minnesota 2 Fatbike, 2010 Superfly 100 Carbon, 2014 CAAD 10 roadie

  27. #527
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    what effect does swapping to that drivetrain setup have on pedal speeds while going down or on flats?
    2013 Trek/Gary Fisher Rumblefish Elite XXL/23"
    120mm 29er

    2004 Santa Cruz Bullitt XL White
    170mm 26er

  28. #528
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    It's fine for where I ride with long climbs and steep downhills but has great range with 42-10 hybrid cassette. If you check the gear chart against 30t chainring and the cassette it pedals everywhere pretty well. You could always go with a 32 or 34 chainring if you don't get the steep climbs.

    Gear Chart ? wolftoothcomponents.com
    2012 Rumblefish Elite, 2015 Minnesota 2 Fatbike, 2010 Superfly 100 Carbon, 2014 CAAD 10 roadie

  29. #529
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    It looks like from the charts it would be too much of a compromise to switch from the triple for me, I need my 22/36 in a lot of places where I climb in socal, but I also like to use the 42/11 sometimes. Seems you've changed your bike a lot from the original intention of a trail bike like the rumblefish. I'm not saying that's bad, but it's just not the kind of riding I have mine for.

    Looks like I could match the gearing on my bullitt with that kind of setup and drop some weight though...hmm
    2013 Trek/Gary Fisher Rumblefish Elite XXL/23"
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    2004 Santa Cruz Bullitt XL White
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  30. #530
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    Really nice!! I also have a 2012 RF Elite, and I did almost all of the same upgrades you did, but I also upgraded the front and rear suspension to 140mm and I paired the Wolf Tooth GC with an XT 2x10 - which works flawlessly and provides a huge gear range. For comparison: the 24t chainring / 42t cog is a slightly easier climbing gear than a 22t chainring / 38t cog would be - which is phenomenal for recovering while pedaling on singletrack climbs that are both steep and miles long ... it just enables you to stay on the bike more and push less.
    (i still have my 2012 RF Elite, and here's my tastefully upgraded 2014 Remedy 9 29er)
    2013 rumblefish-1780685_10201694755026364_296918330_n.jpg
    2013 rumblefish-1795543_10201673760261508_147778144_n.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by twowheelfunman View Post
    Here's an update in regards to my update addiction but the results are fantastic. After adding the FOX 34, dropper post and beefy tires my beloved Rumblefish had turned into a pig while climbing. I just installed lighter tires, American Classic Wide lightning wheels, XO carbon cranks with direct mount Wolfstooth 30t, GC 42t, removed front derailleur & shifter!

    These upgrades have TOTALLY transformed my bike! It is much more lively and not just for downhills anymore!! The wheels hold a line better with the added stiffness and spin up much quicker. LOVE IT!!!


  31. #531
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    I like to thank Trek for great customer service! After moving to SoCal I've been pushing my Rumblefish Elite harder than ever. Maybe too hard.. After cracking my lower chain stay one week and cracking the shock link two weeks later Trek replaced both parts in less than a week at no cost. This type of service will keep me getting Trek's in the future.

  32. #532
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    2013 rumblefish-first-ride1.jpg2013 rumblefish-first-ride2.jpgBrand new owner here in the Great NW. I bought a clearance 2013 Rumblefish with the RS Revelation and I love it. I upgraded from an entry-level hardtail 29er. First ride last night and I'm still getting used to the CTD shock and adjust on the fork. I used the recommended setting with air on both but found I was very nearly bottoming out too easily. I'm going to make some adjustments and add more air then hit the same trail.

    I've had my eye on this bike for a year and I'm still smiling 3 days after I took it home.

  33. #533
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    First mod! moved a few parts over from my hardtail. Added the Forte team flatbar and specialized lock-on grips, both a bit lighter than the bontrgers. Also raised my stem up to the top of the steer tube and flipped it over to get a 5 degree drop. I like this angle more.

    Next up is to move my specialized ground control tires over (2.1) because I think they are lighter and I prefer a bit more narrow tire for my riding style. I'm going to start working through the cranks to convert to a 1X10 hopefully sometime this week.

    And before you ask.. I already blew that keg in the background.. need to refill pronto...2013 rumblefish-stem.jpg

  34. #534
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    2nd mod! Also went 1X10 using a Raceface 32 tooth narrow/wide ring. Love it so far after one trip around the neighborhood.

    2013 rumblefish-image.jpg2013 rumblefish-image.jpg

  35. #535
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    Looking good, l take that its the base model 'fish (sorry if lm wrong), l'd like to go 2x10, with 22/36 (not sure if its possible?) currently 22/32/42, but laziness and funds are holding me back, as it is l need to replace the cassette, chain, 22 & 32 chainrings, rear deraileuer and cable once spring comes, mmmm might be a good time to go 2x???

    if I was to go 2x10, do I then also need a new crank, or do I space the current one, or is it just as easy as removing the big chainring? I think some information searching is required,
    my thinking is that with 2x10 that the small chainring is also used on all 10 rings of the cassette, but in its current set up (3x10) the chain is too "diagonal" imo, therefore my thinking that the small and middle chainrings would need to head outwards ~5mm, or am I overthinking it?

    anyways, 2012 'fish elite

    Last edited by cmg71; 03-07-2014 at 12:07 AM.
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  36. #536
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    I think you are overthinking it a bit. They were designed to work in any line between the cranks rings and the cassette. You should be able to take off the crank arms, unbolt the rings and bolt the 22 back on with a new 36 in the middle position and call it good. It should 'work' like that just fine however you would want to put on a 2 gear shifter and derailleur before something gets messed up. I don't see why you would need to replace the chain, cassette or cable though..

  37. #537
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    Chain, cassette, cable & rear derailleur are being replaced due to being worn out and/or damaged, sorry for the confusion, I also thought I'd do the 22 & 32 as well (since this will be the 3rd chain)

    now Im wondering if going to 2x10 wont cost that much more, so why not? mmmmm need to do more research
    always mad and usually drunk......

  38. #538
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    mine's been sitting in the shop for 2 weeks, stopped by for an update this afternoon and finally the warranty'd wheels have arrived but I need to wait for them to take apart my old wheels and put my old hubs and spokes onto the new wheels.

    This makes my third set of Duster rims since I bought the bike in October They seem to last 3 rides for me here in Socal...maybe this set will last? Or maybe Trek will figure out these wheels aren't strong enough for a 6'5" 210lb rider on a 23" xxl frame...
    2013 Trek/Gary Fisher Rumblefish Elite XXL/23"
    120mm 29er

    2004 Santa Cruz Bullitt XL White
    170mm 26er

  39. #539
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blind View Post
    mine's been sitting in the shop for 2 weeks, stopped by for an update this afternoon and finally the warranty'd wheels have arrived but I need to wait for them to take apart my old wheels and put my old hubs and spokes onto the new wheels.

    This makes my third set of Duster rims since I bought the bike in October They seem to last 3 rides for me here in Socal...maybe this set will last? Or maybe Trek will figure out these wheels aren't strong enough for a 6'5" 210lb rider on a 23" xxl frame...
    The stock Dusters are wet noodles. I'm 250 and I ride my bike like I stole it. When I moved to SoCal I found how much flex the stock wheels have. I even relaced my rear wheel with Sapium strong spokes. I just replaced my wheel set to Sun Ringle Chargers and what a difference. The bike handles like its on rails.

  40. #540
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    I wish I could just buy another set of wheels for the bike, but I blew my entire bike budget when I purchased it in October. I shouldn't need to replace the wheelset on a ~$3000 brand new 'elite' level trail bike.

    I don't ride it nearly as hard as I do my santa cruz. I use that bike for gravity/trails with jump features...
    2013 Trek/Gary Fisher Rumblefish Elite XXL/23"
    120mm 29er

    2004 Santa Cruz Bullitt XL White
    170mm 26er

  41. #541
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    I must be breaking a spoke every other ride at the mo.. Pretty p'd off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ready805 View Post
    I must be breaking a spoke every other ride at the mo.. Pretty p'd off.
    Try relaceing with Sapim Strong spokes. It made my rear wheel holdup much better. Just watch out with the spoke tension. Those suckers are stronger than the rims.

  43. #543
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    Besides looking absolutely tops , I'd be interested to know how the Crossmax SLRs have held up......

    Quote Originally Posted by Q-TECH View Post
    As promised.

    Name:  813800d1373074767t-2013-rumblefish-uploadfromtaptalk1373074782282.jpg
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    Would also be interested in how the Flows have held up........

    Quote Originally Posted by grundy1973 View Post
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    My fish with her new Flows
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  44. #544
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    So cal here as well, and yea another big rider blowing spokes out regularly on the dusters.

    What I have found to help heaps, check and re tighten spokes before every ride. As soon as I started working that into my pre ride routine the broken spokes near disappeared.

    I still intend to upgrade to hope/dt/flows eventually, but it is now a want more than a need.

  45. #545
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmg71 View Post
    Besides looking absolutely tops , I'd be interested to know how the Crossmax SLRs have held up......





    Would also be interested in how the Flows have held up........
    Flows have been bomb proof thus far. Love em but those mavics look the biz!

  46. #546
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigRingGrinder View Post
    So cal here as well, and yea another big rider blowing spokes out regularly on the dusters.

    What I have found to help heaps, check and re tighten spokes before every ride. As soon as I started working that into my pre ride routine the broken spokes near disappeared.
    I've started doing this too, and so far no breakages!

  47. #547
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ready805 View Post
    I must be breaking a spoke every other ride at the mo.. Pretty p'd off.
    I would loosen all the spokes and tighten them to proper even tension, or have someone do that if you don't know how or don't want to mess with it. That should nearly elminate broken spokes.

  48. #548
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmg71 View Post
    Chain, cassette, cable & rear derailleur are being replaced due to being worn out and/or damaged, sorry for the confusion, I also thought I'd do the 22 & 32 as well (since this will be the 3rd chain)

    now Im wondering if going to 2x10 wont cost that much more, so why not? mmmmm need to do more research

    Have you or anyone else had luck swapping from the 3x10 that came on the bike to a 2x10?

    I have the same 2013 RF1 that coling posted pictures of, just a different frame size because I have a small triangle where the seat post meets the top tube.

    I'm not the greatest technical rider just yet, this is my first full suspension bike, but I have hit the big ring a few times here and there on a rock, root, or sump/log. Not to mention my leg once or twice. I only use the big ring when riding paved trails to get out to the dirt...so getting rid of it, I could still spin fast enough with the stock 33t mid ring to get where i need to go, and put a bash ring in place of the big ring.

    The only problem is finding reliable info to do the modifications. Should any Bash guard with the proper bolt circle work? Also, I too was concerned with chain line as the current setup now in mid ring to smallest cog is at a pretty decent angle and rubs the FD cage. It's not a severe cross chaining but it's getting there. And when I remove the 44t I may need that combo for flat land pavement pounding so I don't have to spin over 100 rpm or something like that.

    Also, I understand limiting the movement of the FD to not go to where the 44t used to be. But would it be better to find a 2x10 specific front shifter?

    And last one...for now...the RD, now that I won't have a 44t I'm sure the chain will have to get shorter and in doing so I won't need the Long cage RD any more right? So will it's performance be really bad unless I change to a medium cage? Kind of want to swap anyways since mine did not come with a clutch and I'd love to get rid of that chain slap.

    Thanks for any help, like I said I've been trying to read as much as possible on the subject but Trek seems to make it all just a little bit different from all the other brands and I'd like to save the $$ and do all this myself if I can find the right parts.

  49. #549
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    ^ iv been running my rumblefish with a bash guard in place of the big ring since shortly after I got it. I just never used the big ring, but then again I'm almost always riding dirt.

    I ended up getting a bbg bash guard, 16 bucks, very nice and bolted on easily. You just need a 104 bcd guard. It's a very simple swap. Take off the big ring and put the bash on where the big ring goes. No need to remove your crank or anything.

    I cannot help you with the front derailleur thing. I just used my 3x front and played with the limiter screw so that it wouldn't shift to the bash guard.

    on a side note I'll be going to 1x here shortly, iv got a 30t nw chainring on the way.

    another note this is on my rumble fish pro w/ xt crank.

  50. #550
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    Thanks for the info on 2x10 setup. I will look into it more, and I may or may not get to it this season. The main reason for doing it is that I've been wanting a clutch type RD and if I was going to get one, I'd rather get a medium cage if it worked with the ratios I want on the 2x10. Still need to go over the gear clacs and ride my bike with the "missing gears" by not using them to be sure it's what I want first.

    However, just had my first warranty issue with my base model RF though. The rear hub was making a bit of a garble sound almost like it had rocks in it or something. Took it in and didn't get much of an explanation other than one of the pawls wasn't returning properly, they did what they could to get me riding for the weekend and it was fine on the ride as far as I could tell.

    The shop though, submitted the warranty claim with Trek and it turns out I'm getting a whole new wheel. Yay! Also, Trek said they are going to convert it to 142 x 12 while they're at it. I'm guessing that for them to do it quickly they didn't have any rear wheels built up in 135 that they could ship right to the shop? Either way, seems like a huge bonus to me.

    My concern though is that when I look at the RF Elite and Pro from 2013 I see they both have the 142 axle...but the wheels are 28 hole, not 32 like my base RF came with. This has me concerned for strength and reliability. I'm not light, 195 with gear. And I've had no problems yet, but for my use and needs the savings of 4 spokes in weight (and nipples) doesn't outweigh the stronger setup of a 32...or at least that's my interpretation of why someone would want 32. Going to call the shop to see if I'll be getting a new wheel with 28 or 32.

    Should I be concerned if it's a 28? Did Trek/Bonti even make a 142 rear axle wheel with 32 spokes anyways? Stock rims are hard to find info on, and don't seem to really match the current stuff on their website.

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