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  1. #201
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    Anyone know what the frame mount spec is on the Scout for rear brake caliper fitting. I'm battling with post mount brackets, bolt lengths and rotor sizes - and losing! Fitting SRAM Guide RS and have a 160mm rotor (also have a 200mm rotor but that's probably overkill). Trying to read this table: https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign....r_mounting.pdf

    Cheers

  2. #202
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    Ah, answer staring me in the face the whole time! 160mm post mount.https://www.transitionbikes.com/2015/Bikes_Scout.cfm frame specs.

  3. #203
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    I have a few questions about the Scout. Hoping all Scout owners can help. Looking to build a Scout from the frame up for the girlfriend. She is 5'9" and weighs about 120. Long legs and arms. She would need a large. She won't get to demo one since there are no dealers near where we live. She wants to go 2x10 so that isn't an issue. I basically know what parts she will want. She rides mostly xc/trail but doesn't do too many jumps. She has ridden some very rocky technical stuff on her current bike (Giant Trance 2 with 120 up front). I'm thinking 140 up front would be the max for her. How would the ride be with 140 up front? Again her weight plays a big part in balancing out the suspension? I'm trying to get the bike weight down close to around 27 pounds. Is that possible? I was looking at the X-Fusion Sweep for up front. Any thoughts/ideas? Suggestions? Look at a different bike maybe?
    LOVE THE RIDE!

  4. #204
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    I'm 5'10"-11" and ride a large. It's a long bike and that's what I wanted, but I did test ride it. I think it needs to be ridden quite aggressively if you 'size up' as I did. The length is great for stability when it gets fast but feels like it needs more commitment into tight steep corners than bikes with a shorter front centre. It jumps well and like everyone says it's got a lot of the mysterious 'pop' we all like.

    140mm is how they come from the factory, I think, so should be perfect.

    It's not a light frame but anything is achievable if you throw money at the weight issue. I've never been a fan of weight savings unless I felt something was holding me back. I don't know what mine weighs, but 30lbs would be my guess. It's a very balanced ride and in no way to I feel limited by that weight when climbing. However, if it is a bother, skinnier forks would save half a pound, lighter tyres would save a pound keeping the standard shock some more again, why not go for 27 lbs eh.

  5. #205
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    Hi I though I would add my 2cents on this thread (originally form a tread on PB);



    i got the transition scout built up and have about 150+ miles on it now. although it's really not that much, I think I have covered a good range of terrain, it has been some of the most fun I have ever ridden.

    I have taken this bike on a bunch of different trails, (XC AM and downhill) aka up and down mountains, I did the Cali Enduro Series event in Mendocino on it, very proud that day to be one of 2 transition riders and the only one on a scout, I just came back from North Star bike park and some hazy street trips back from the bar.

    I ordered the frame last November but it didn't arrive until May (wtf!) because of some delays with transition, more than a few times I picked up the phone to cancel my order with my LBS but I'm glad I never went through with it.

    I think that the Pink Bike review of this frame nailed it, I would only like to highlight how impressed I am with the ride position. I'm 5'9ish 165lb and I got a medium frame, I was not looking for an 'in the bike feel' that a larger frame would have offered as by preference I much prefer the 'on the bike feel' however this is an all too binary description of a very personal preference.

    the position when climbing seated gives plenty of room and weights the rear wheel very nicely for tech climbs without making the front feel like it's ready to float upwards, it feels stable and wander free in on the ups and the grip really is astounding. it's maybe not the fastest climber but a very comfortable platform when climbing and when on a 2000ft grind it's lovely.

    on the downs is where I find the geometry most appealing, the longer front compensates the shorter rear keeping the wheelbase from being too short, yet the wheels are a therefore feel a little more forward of my center of gravity than I was used to, this has enabled me to lean more forwards into the bike without feeling like I'm too far forwards, I know this is very anecdotal, however the results speak for themselves, my cornering is faster my confidence is way up and I have smashed my mates on downhills that we have always been neck and neck on. when in the attack position the bike feels lithe and free, the nimbleness is fantastic and the brute strength of the frame just ups the confidence more. the suspension sucks up the bumps way better than I expected for 125 out back (I have a 140pike up front) and really allows you to focus on lines and pushing hard on the trails, it's just super super fun to be on a frame that feels just right.

    on the suspension front, I also found that riding 10psi below the reccomended on my pike was and is nicest, but I'm toying with the idea of another token to help the ramp up. I like the monarch a little more poppy than the reccomended 30%sag so I'm around 25% ish which takes me back to thirty when I'm fully loaded for an all day ride.

    In short, it's a wonderful machine.


    My Build
    Scout medium
    Pike 140 & monarch plus
    XT drive train & breaks
    2x10 - with no front DR (narrow wide 32t and 22t granny for the super steeps)
    Renthal fatbar carbon 740mm
    Chris king headset
    Funn 45mm stem
    race face next sl cranks & BB
    xpedo pedals
    hope hubs laced to wtb i25 rims with DT Swiss double butted spokes
    2.4 wtb trailboss front and rear
    reverb stealth dropper 125
    Wtb volt saddle

    28lb ish very respectable weight anyway

    anyway that's my 2cents well done if you made it this far ;D

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hydraulic_Man View Post
    Here's mine, just finished it.
    No time to put it really to a test, certainly is longer then my 2013 bandit L, I might go with a 35 stem instead of my 50mm

    But compared to my bandit you already feel the difference with the slacker HA, can't wait to point it downhill

    Attachment 999757Attachment 999758
    Love that

    What saddle are you using?


    Thanks

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by J273 View Post
    Love that

    What saddle are you using?


    Thanks
    It's a stripped Selle Italia SL

  8. #208
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    Scout!

    Hi fellow Scout owners.

    Here's mine on the 2nd ride after getting it up in BC.

    Medium frame
    XT
    Stans wheels/tubeless
    Chromag saddle and grips
    rock shox Pike
    rock shox dropper post

    Still getting used to it coming from an XC Giant but love how it handles the downhill. It wants drops and tech.

    Fun bike.

    Cheers
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Scout Build Thread-11224510_10206415710328783_4856328939755355459_o.jpg  


  9. #209
    Dnn
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    I've had my scout for a few months now.
    Only change I made on my original build was swapping the 50mm stem for a 40mm stem. Makes for a very nice handling bike!

    Only thing I can imagine I would want to upgrade at some point is getting the carbon version, but even that I'm not sure I need. The alu frame is perfectly fine. Bike fits me in pretty much every aspect.

    Conclusion: Initial positive feel about the bike remains

    Scout Build Thread-scout.jpg

  10. #210
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    How is everyone liking the Monarch rear shock? When I first built up my Scout, I felt like the lockout position was fairly firm. After about only 20 trail miles, I fell like there is not much difference in any of the threshold settings. I am wondering if something in that threshold circuit is not working if that is even possible as rebound seems to work fine. It seems as if all the platform is missing from the shock and the frame chassis is not as stable as it felt the first 10 miles or so. I don't have anywhere nearby to try out another shock to see how they are "supposed" to feel.
    Fifty-two, I mean fifty-four bicycles on the wall
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  11. #211
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    How do you like the Float X compared to the RS Monarch? I was considering to change but the RS is not that bad and it pedals well for me. It does not feel as plush as my Float CTD on my Bottle Rocket but the frame design is different which may be the difference and not so much the shock.
    [B]Chillin...Riding I hopeB]

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by Appalachian View Post
    How is everyone liking the Monarch rear shock? When I first built up my Scout, I felt like the lockout position was fairly firm. After about only 20 trail miles, I fell like there is not much difference in any of the threshold settings. I am wondering if something in that threshold circuit is not working if that is even possible as rebound seems to work fine. It seems as if all the platform is missing from the shock and the frame chassis is not as stable as it felt the first 10 miles or so. I don't have anywhere nearby to try out another shock to see how they are "supposed" to feel.
    I read your post and then checked mine. I could not tell any difference between open and platform and lockout didn't seem to work at all.

    I thought I would try and reset the shock.

    I let out all the air pumped it up to what I normally ride and the suspension was stuck in lockout! No matter what setting it was locked.....I jumped on it really hard and it finally started working. Now there is a difference I can tell between open and platform...a little. The lockout there is a big difference, but it still does not completely lock out the suspension....there's still and inch of travel.

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    I read your post and then checked mine. I could not tell any difference between open and platform and lockout didn't seem to work at all.

    I thought I would try and reset the shock.

    I let out all the air pumped it up to what I normally ride and the suspension was stuck in lockout! No matter what setting it was locked.....I jumped on it really hard and it finally started working. Now there is a difference I can tell between open and platform...a little. The lockout there is a big difference, but it still does not completely lock out the suspension....there's still and inch of travel.
    It does not have a true lockout so if you push or hit something hard enough it will cycle the shock a little.
    [B]Chillin...Riding I hopeB]

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazbiker4 View Post
    It does not have a true lockout so if you push or hit something hard enough it will cycle the shock a little.
    True, most shocks do. My Fox RP23 had a couple of millimeters travel as well. The Monarch seems to have a little more.

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    I read your post and then checked mine. I could not tell any difference between open and platform and lockout didn't seem to work at all.

    I thought I would try and reset the shock.

    I let out all the air pumped it up to what I normally ride and the suspension was stuck in lockout! No matter what setting it was locked.....I jumped on it really hard and it finally started working. Now there is a difference I can tell between open and platform...a little. The lockout there is a big difference, but it still does not completely lock out the suspension....there's still and inch of travel.
    I will try this. I have read that this shock has a negative chamber that has to be reset by cycling the travel while setting pressure.
    Fifty-two, I mean fifty-four bicycles on the wall
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  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazbiker4 View Post
    How do you like the Float X compared to the RS Monarch? I was considering to change but the RS is not that bad and it pedals well for me. It does not feel as plush as my Float CTD on my Bottle Rocket but the frame design is different which may be the difference and not so much the shock.
    I think it's plusher, especially over small bumps. Although mine has a Vorsprung can and is Push'd so not standard. I've also got a small reducer in the can to keep it nice and progressive too. I'm really impressed with it overall. The trail setting seems good, the climb setting provides a good platform to climb against but gives in when you hammer downhill forgetting to turn it off. I wouldn't say it's a giant gap between the two as there really wasn't much wrong with the RS monarch, I just had the option to change it for cheap and went for it.e trail setting seems good, the climb setting provides a good platform to climb against but gives in when you hammer downhill forgetting to turn it off. I'd be interested to try a Cane Creek DBA CS on it sometime.

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by Appalachian View Post
    I will try this. I have read that this shock has a negative chamber that has to be reset by cycling the travel while setting pressure.
    Yes the shock does have a large neg air can and it will not let air into that chamber until you cycle the shock a little to let the chambers equalize. This will make it feel locked out initially. Basically when setting up the shock put about 150psi in it, slowly cycle the shock to let the air chambers equalize. Then add more air to say 200psi, remove the pump and push slowly again to equalize the air chambers. After that then start measuring sag, remove or add air to set it to the proper sag.

    Transition has a really good how to on there site.
    http://www.transitionbikes.com/PDF/T...ddyUpSetup.pdf
    [B]Chillin...Riding I hopeB]

  18. #218
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    Here is my build:
    Scout frame m size
    Fox 34 talas 2015 150-120mm
    Wheels ryde trace trail with novatec hubs dt spokes (25mm inner width)
    Michelin wild grip'r advanced 2.25 front
    Maxxis ikon exo 2.25 rear
    shimano slx brakes 180mm rotors
    Reverb seatpost
    Sdg Falcon seat
    Saint lever
    Shimano slx dérailleur with oneup cage
    Fsa gravity light stem 45mm +6°
    Bontrager bar 750mm
    Raceface half Nelson grips
    Shimano xt cassette with oneup cog 42t
    SRAM x9 cranks with bionicon oval NW 28t



    Last edited by payze; 08-19-2015 at 03:27 AM.

  19. #219
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    Beautiful!

  20. #220
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    Nice build and scenery to photo shoot your bike.

  21. #221
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    Thanks ;-)

  22. #222
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    Just ordered a Green medium 2016. Bike shop says that Transition should have it shipped Monday. Excited!

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by noahpurdy View Post
    Just ordered a Green medium 2016. Bike shop says that Transition should have it shipped Monday. Excited!
    Transition website now has the new Scout builds up. Four models for 2016. $2999 gets you a complete bike.

  24. #224
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    Any changes to the frame for 2016?

    Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk

  25. #225
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    5mm increase on BB height, that's it I do believe.

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by SikeMo View Post
    Any changes to the frame for 2016?

    Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk
    TRANSITION BIKES - Plush Hill Cycles - Church Stretton - Shropshire Hills

    Doesn't look like it.

  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by SATANRULES View Post
    5mm increase on BB height, that's it I do believe.
    I just checked, it's the same height, but they put 170mm cranks on this year..to help with that low BB height.

    Scout Build Thread-image.jpg

  28. #228
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    They are also using bars with less rise this year. 20mm vs 35mm. I went this route to help with that front end wash out. Seems to work. I tried Spank 777 with 15mm rise and its helping most of the time to weigh down that front end.

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    Transition website now has the new Scout builds up. Four models for 2016. $2999 gets you a complete bike.
    I saw that. I already had an awesome AMHT build that I wrecked and destroyed the frame. I'll be migrating all the parts over to the bike I always wanted!

  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by DServy View Post
    I figured it was about time to let the world know I finally got my Scout built.

    Attachment 991762
    Very nice build!

    i'm very interested in the clearance available on rear wheel with such wide rim and the razor rock

  31. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by Appalachian View Post
    How is everyone liking the Monarch rear shock? When I first built up my Scout, I felt like the lockout position was fairly firm. After about only 20 trail miles, I fell like there is not much difference in any of the threshold settings. I am wondering if something in that threshold circuit is not working if that is even possible as rebound seems to work fine. It seems as if all the platform is missing from the shock and the frame chassis is not as stable as it felt the first 10 miles or so. I don't have anywhere nearby to try out another shock to see how they are "supposed" to feel.
    Mystery solved and closing out my own post, I sent the shock back to SRAM. Turns out a check valve and glide ring were bad, whatever those are. There is now a significant difference between the three settings, just as I remembered the first day I rode it. The bike rides awesome once again.
    Fifty-two, I mean fifty-four bicycles on the wall
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  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by payze View Post
    Very nice build!

    i'm very interested in the clearance available on rear wheel with such wide rim and the razor rock
    2.3 rock razor is completely fine on such a wide rim. Moved up from a Hans Damf to a Magic Mary and absolutely love it. Bike just wants to rip and push through things.

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by SATANRULES View Post
    5mm increase on BB height, that's it I do believe.
    Lars mentioned this in this video.

    5mm increase in height and 5mm shorter crank....I need this!


  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    I just checked, it's the same height, but they put 170mm cranks on this year..to help with that low BB height.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I guess saying "estimated" BB height gives you 5mm difference.

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by DServy View Post
    2.3 rock razor is completely fine on such a wide rim. Moved up from a Hans Damf to a Magic Mary and absolutely love it. Bike just wants to rip and push through things.
    Thanks!

  36. #236
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    Had to drop my Scout off at the LBS today. My Pike lock out wasn't working. That's only half of it though. The reason I found this out was I now have a mysterious clink, not a clunk coming from the front end. I looked at everything trying to figure it out. Took apart the headset, lubed everything, bolts, bars, bearings, spacers.....everything and it's still there. Every rock, root, hole, etc, clink, clink. Very metallic sounding. I still think it's the head set, but the LBS doesn't think so. I checked every cable too. It's not the internal routing. My latest project was to purchase a nerf ball, cut it into smaller cubes, take off bottom bracket an stuff the nerf sections into the big downtube hole. Worked like a charm.

    This sound though, if you ever tighten a bolt a little too tight it kinda pings, or clinks...

  37. #237
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    I think I remember somewhere in this thread someone asking about running a fork with more travel on the scout. My Pike recently died on me for the 3rd time (something about a seal head failure, there's a thread about it on here somewhere in the suspension forum) while I was on a pretty long road trip headed towards Whistler. I had a short amount of time to get it replaced before heading over the border so I quickly ordered a 2016 Fox 36 Float. I haven't had a chance to lower this yet so I've been riding it at 160.

    I spent a few days riding it like this around Oakridge, OR and I really didn't like it that much. The trails there are pretty fast and flowy and I just couldn't get the bike to corner well, the front end kept pushing out in corners and it even dumped me a couple of times.

    I've now been riding it in Whistler and Squamish for the past couple of weeks and I have to say that for here, the bike feels just about perfect right now. The added travel is certainly nice to have once pointed down the steep and rough trails and the increase in BB height has been a bonus. The trails here don't really have much for what you might call "traditional" corners, it's more point your bike down something really steep with roots and rocks and then slam into a hard corner at the bottom. I also lowered my stem a few spacers to help get some more weight over the front wheel.

    I'm thinking I'll leave it like this until I head back to Utah in a couple of weeks and then I'll lower back to 150 or 140.

    It's pretty amazing how bottomless the rear end feels. I've definitely had a couple of harsh bottom outs using all 160mm of the new fork but have never felt like I had any kind of bottom out on the rear or never felt like the rear needed more travel.

    here's the current setup in Oakridge. The bad pic angle makes it seem more slacked out than it is.


  38. #238
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    I just got back from two weeks up in Whistler myself. Your description of the "XC" trails up there is spot on. I run my Scout at 150mm and I think it works well for my trails back here in Boise as well as the stuff I rode up in the Whistler area. A agree with you on the travel in the rear. I overwhelmed it a few times but nothing that made me want more travel. This bike is just fantastic for so many different types of trails.

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    Had to drop my Scout off at the LBS today. My Pike lock out wasn't working. That's only half of it though. The reason I found this out was I now have a mysterious clink, not a clunk coming from the front end. I looked at everything trying to figure it out. Took apart the headset, lubed everything, bolts, bars, bearings, spacers.....everything and it's still there. Every rock, root, hole, etc, clink, clink. Very metallic sounding. I still think it's the head set, but the LBS doesn't think so. I checked every cable too. It's not the internal routing. My latest project was to purchase a nerf ball, cut it into smaller cubes, take off bottom bracket an stuff the nerf sections into the big downtube hole. Worked like a charm.

    This sound though, if you ever tighten a bolt a little too tight it kinda pings, or clinks...
    You can track the source of the sound by putting a screwdriver to your ear. It amplifies the sound a lot. Much easier to find it this way. We used this method to find a crack in a friend's frame which was hidden under a decal. Hope you'll have better luck.

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by toronte View Post
    You can track the source of the sound by putting a screwdriver to your ear. It amplifies the sound a lot. Much easier to find it this way. We used this method to find a crack in a friend's frame which was hidden under a decal. Hope you'll have better luck.
    Could you explain? I don't want to stick the wrong end in my ear?

  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    Could you explain? I don't want to stick the wrong end in my ear?
    Scout Build Thread-ct-1403stethoscope-01-.jpg

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by toronte View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks, i guess the idea would be to put the metal end where I think the noise is coming from and this will amplify?
    Good thing I asked, I would of had the wrong end in my ear.

  43. #243
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    Yep. The closer you get, the louder the sound will be.

  44. #244
    ptd
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfinn View Post
    I think I remember somewhere in this thread someone asking about running a fork with more travel on the scout. My Pike recently died on me for the 3rd time (something about a seal head failure, there's a thread about it on here somewhere in the suspension forum) while I was on a pretty long road trip headed towards Whistler. I had a short amount of time to get it replaced before heading over the border so I quickly ordered a 2016 Fox 36 Float. I haven't had a chance to lower this yet so I've been riding it at 160.

    I spent a few days riding it like this around Oakridge, OR and I really didn't like it that much. The trails there are pretty fast and flowy and I just couldn't get the bike to corner well, the front end kept pushing out in corners and it even dumped me a couple of times.

    I've now been riding it in Whistler and Squamish for the past couple of weeks and I have to say that for here, the bike feels just about perfect right now. The added travel is certainly nice to have once pointed down the steep and rough trails and the increase in BB height has been a bonus. The trails here don't really have much for what you might call "traditional" corners, it's more point your bike down something really steep with roots and rocks and then slam into a hard corner at the bottom. I also lowered my stem a few spacers to help get some more weight over the front wheel.

    I'm thinking I'll leave it like this until I head back to Utah in a couple of weeks and then I'll lower back to 150 or 140.

    It's pretty amazing how bottomless the rear end feels. I've definitely had a couple of harsh bottom outs using all 160mm of the new fork but have never felt like I had any kind of bottom out on the rear or never felt like the rear needed more travel.

    here's the current setup in Oakridge. The bad pic angle makes it seem more slacked out than it is.
    Good feedback, great news the rear feels bottomless regardless of forks/terrain, it's my only reservation on choosing the frame.
    I'm figuring the Fox 36 is a good choice coz the travel can be adjusted with spacers, 160 for serious stuff if really necessary and 140/150 for mellow home trails.

    Was there any obvious imbalance over different terrain apart from the front pushing (on flat/fast corners from your description)?
    Others have answered it's fine, just good to get more info!

  45. #245
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    speaking of travel, anyway to increase the stock pike rc on the scout 2 build to 150 or so?

  46. #246
    SC Junkie
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    You can. You'll need a new air shaft. There like $30 ish, if I remember correctly.

  47. #247
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    I believe you can increase/reduce the travel on the Pike by replacing the air spring assembly with a longer/shorter one. There's plenty of threads elsewhere on mtbr :-)

  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by toronte View Post
    Yep. The closer you get, the louder the sound will be.
    LBS said the steering tube is pressed into the fork crown. Sometimes that press is not perfect and the steering tube has some play. They tried putting some greese to quiet it down. It's gone from a clink to a tap.....it's still there an I think it's more noticeable than before even though it's quieter. I can now feel it, and hear it. This is the only bike in my stable, sending for warranty seems to be the only choice.

    Anyone have this happen before? Steering tube not pressed properly to crown? Is there the possibility of complete failure? Or can I keep riding and have them warranty when the snow hits the ground?

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    Anyone have this happen before? Steering tube not pressed properly to crown? Is there the possibility of complete failure? Or can I keep riding and have them warranty when the snow hits the ground?
    It is quite common and has become more so in recent years as the pressure to lose weight has resulted in weedier crowns with shallower press fit sections for the steerer. No brand seems to be immune to it either (except the X Fusion one piece crown/steerers for obvious reasons).

    It isn't normally considered dangerous, but I would warranty it sooner rather than later. The longer you leave it the more likely the manufacturer is to try and claim it's not their fault.

  50. #250
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    Waiting on the rest of the parts! I can't wait!

    Scout Build Thread-screen-shot-2015-09-03-8.25.57-pm.jpg

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