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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy R View Post
    I just got (and have already raced last Saturday) a 2015 Fox 36 set at 150mm. Honestly, that is as high as I would go with the Scout. Anything higher and it is going to start to feel unbalanced. Also, it is just not needed. We raced on a really rocky super d course that had rock gardens like a normal DH race track, and the scout ate it up. I was making up time on my buddy on a Nomad through the rocks during practice. 150 feels perfect on that bike for the rough stuff.
    Yeah you're right, just thinking out loud really as I need to get some beefier forks from what I have at the moment (RS 150 revelations) and wondered if I should go up a bit as well.
    Put your phone down and get riding.

  2. #102
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    Scout Build Thread-img_1778.jpg

    This bike rips!

  3. #103
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    I just browsed this thread through and didn't found any front deraileur. Could someone post a pic of Scout with front deraileur, please. I have removed front deraileur hanger from my Scout, but cable stop remains in rear swingarm.

    I also noticed that many of us are setting saddle way forward. I also tuned mine that way after first ride.

  4. #104
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    Anybody happen to know when the next transition shipment is coming in? I have a frame on order and was told late May/early June. Just curious if anybody has any updated ETA's.

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by troh View Post
    I just browsed this thread through and didn't found any front deraileur. Could someone post a pic of Scout with front deraileur, please. I have removed front deraileur hanger from my Scout, but cable stop remains in rear swingarm.
    This is mine until I go a 1x setup.

    Scout Build Thread-20150502_145102.jpg
    Scout Build Thread-20150502_145113.jpg

  6. #106
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    Ended up going a 150mm Pike for the front. If I find the front end wanders on climbs too much, the conversion parts for 140mm are like $45.

  7. #107
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    Scout Build Thread-image.jpg

    This bike just gets better every time I ride it!

  8. #108
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    Hi guyz,

    Here it is !
    Hot or not: Transition Scout de Karim | MTB-CHECK
    This bike is so fun to ride !!

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by toodles View Post
    This is mine until I go a 1x setup.
    Now it doesn't anymore feel so bad that there are those extra parts ;-)

    I have now Shimano 1x10 in TransAm with extension cog and Sram 1x11 in Scout. Both are usable solutions. Sram setup is faultless as it is installed as originally planned. Shimano setup is missing 15t cog and thus there is a big jump for gears used in road riding. Thus when commuting to work, it is a fault, but when riding trails, it is no problem at all. Thus if somebody asks my opinion, I promote 1x10 setup for those who sees money as an object. It is not that bad. If you can afford, Sram setup, or new Shimano 11 speed setup... For me, front deraileur is only for road bike. Maybe if riding big mountain ascents, I would change my opinion.

  10. #110
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    I just took the plunge too and ordered a Scout limeade frame!

    I come from a santa cruz 5010 and allthough I really really like the bike it is just too short for me. I'm 5'11 and have a size L. The reach is just too short and I feel OTB feeling in many situations and I feel I get way to much over the bars in attack position. I also feel "On top" rather then "in" the bike because of the short reach if that makes any sence. The above + my back start hurting after long rides.

    I've tried other bikes with longer reach and everytime it's just hard to hold back the jealousy - It just feels alot better.

    So to maintain the great features from the 5010 like low BB and general playfulness I came across the scout and it seems like the perfect bike for me.

    I ordered a size large frame and pretty much have every other part of the bike from my 5010 so that's a nice and easy ... transition ....

    Anyone gone a similar way?

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dnn View Post
    I just took the plunge too and ordered a Scout limeade frame!

    I come from a santa cruz 5010 and allthough I really really like the bike it is just too short for me. I'm 5'11 and have a size L.
    Did you test ride the scout?

    I could use some help between a scout, spider275, and 5010. Had a bandit, blur 4x setup as trail bike, carbon Bronson but want a poppy bike with a short cs.

    The scout looks like a great setup, but I know VPP well and with 33yrs of Bmx under my belt my instinct to accelerate is to stand - which is where VPP is pretty good. Add to that my trails are only 1-2 hundred feet of elevation and steep/rolling like rollercoasters - 1 min climb, 30 sec descend, repeat (no need for intervals right?)

    I have no experience with Horst link. How is the scout for out of the saddle bursts (especially if you can compare with 5010) ?

    If you run a 36t ring do you lose efficiency (lose some anti-squat)?

    Any info is good info
    believe in yourself! I believe in you!

  12. #112
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    Grizzy. ^


    I came off of a Blur LT2 and really liked that bike. That Blur was a great all arounder but I can't believe how much more fun the Scout is. My Blur I found seated was the best climbing, standing would cause the back end to spin out. The Scout my best climbing is standing. This may be just my style of pedaling, spastic and unrefined, but the Horst link eats up my rapid pedal strokes. I ride nearly the same kind of trails you describe, tough up hills with very short down hills. Never seems to be a reward for all the technical climbing. Trails are nothing but roots,rocks, roots and more rocks. I am having so much more fun on the Scout than on my Blur......and my Blur was a lot of fun!

    I have 32 teeth chainring with 42 teeth extended cog and am toying with 30 teeth chainring for all the steep, technical climbing.

  13. #113
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    Hi all,
    In the process of building up my scout frame and am about to purchase a Lev Integra. Any of you running a 150mm dropper post on a medium frame? I'm 5'10" with long legs-33" inseam, wondering if the 435mm post will be OK? Thx,
    transition bike company

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dnn View Post
    Anyone gone a similar way?
    Yes, I own a large 5010 also and loved the fit and feel of the large Scout at 5' 11". The 5olo didn't feel way too short with a 60mm stem until I rode the Scout and new Endorphin which both fit very similar and I can run a shorter stem and still have more room. It's the only gripe I have with my 5olo.

    New 27.5 Endorphin on order and will switch over parts.


    And to Grizzy: If your trails are smooth short ups and downs the 5010c and Flux or M4c would be my pick. If you get lots of bumps and roots on your short ups and downs then the Scout will own it. I loved standing and hammering the Scout on short ups and downs especially when the trail surface was rough. The tire just stayed glued to the trail and the bike as a whole stayed stable and moved forward with authority.

    Like I said, though, if the trails are smooth I think the VPP and especially the dw links are even more efficient and accelerate faster on standing sprints, but I was pleasantly surprised at how responsive the Scout is.
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
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  15. #115
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    Quick question; Scout + 150mm Pike = __ head angle?

  16. #116
    Dnn
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    Quote Originally Posted by KRob View Post
    Yes, I own a large 5010 also and loved the fit and feel of the large Scout at 5' 11". The 5olo didn't feel way too short with a 60mm stem until I rode the Scout and new Endorphin which both fit very similar and I can run a shorter stem and still have more room. It's the only gripe I have with my 5olo.
    Hey KRob.
    I've followed your blog and I hoped you might reply to this topic, so thanks.
    What you describe is exactly why I made the change.
    I've tried bikes with longer reach and those just feel alot better to me.
    Another thing I can't go without is a short sub 50mm stem, currently I have a 40mm stem ready for the scout. After I've tried just how much better short stems feel for me I just dont feel good with a 70mm stem on my 5010. If I go lower than 70mm on my 5010 I feel my body is over the handlebars in attack position and just generally feel unbalanced. I tried alot of diffrent options on my 5010 but just had to accept that the reach was just too short. Or maybe a more precise term would be that with a long stem the reach was ok'ish, but the front wheel seemed too close and I felt unbalanced, and I just prefered the feel of a <50mm stem so much more.

    Myb trails are not in anyway super technical, but we do have alot of roots/small jumps etc. and at times I felt the VPP felt a bit harsh, epspecially since I'm a 200+lbs person and the fox CTD is just too harsh if I dont want it to bottom out on everything. I know people have suggested DBinline, but that upgrade is pretty pricey and along with the reach problem it made me take the jump. I realized too late that I prefer a long front end, but well, you live you learn and dollars you burn.

    I dont mind the extra weight on the scout. I'm no racer, just a "as fun as possible ride" guy. My 5010 is the XX1 build, with XTR, Next SL, 240's etc. and pretty much all the parts can be switched to the scout without any changes needed. (well, the pike extended to 140mm but thats about it) So the final build should be quite "light"

    David
    Most bikes slack/steepen HA about .5 degrees per 10mm.
    So your new HA would be arround 66.5 I believe.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dnn View Post
    David
    Most bikes slack/steepen HA about .5 degrees per 10mm.
    So your new HA would be arround 66.5 I believe.
    Cheers! I'm loving the look of the Scout, if it had 140mm in the back I probably have one on order already. I'm sure it's not likely to be that big a deal for most of my riding, but something in my mind keeps saying I need/want at least as much if not more travel as I already have...

  18. #118
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    Does anyone have weights for thier builds? On paper the Scout looks great except the frame weight concerns me.

  19. #119
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    They're not light bikes that's for sure. My XL is 29.5 lbs, but that's with flow ex wheels. I bet guys with smaller frames are getting down to the 28 lb range. Next year when the carbon frame comes out I'll be switching.

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by David R View Post
    Cheers! I'm loving the look of the Scout, if it had 140mm in the back I probably have one on order already. I'm sure it's not likely to be that big a deal for most of my riding, but something in my mind keeps saying I need/want at least as much if not more travel as I already have...
    Buy a Patrol.

  21. #121
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    Guess I really need to ride one to see how that 65* HA is going to work on the tighter slower stuff. No demo bikes here in NZ til next summer though, could work out OK if I'm patient as the carbon ones might be getting close by then...

  22. #122
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    Should be approximately .5 degrees slacker- typically for every 20 mm increase = 1 degree slacker.
    Quote Originally Posted by David R View Post
    Quick question; Scout + 150mm Pike = __ head angle?

  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by David R View Post
    Guess I really need to ride one to see how that 65* HA is going to work on the tighter slower stuff. No demo bikes here in NZ til next summer though, could work out OK if I'm patient as the carbon ones might be getting close by then...
    Wouldn't 150 pike bring HA to 66.5?

  24. #124
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    Yeah, my comment was in response to the guy who said "buy a Patrol".

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by David R View Post
    Yeah, my comment was in response to the guy who said "buy a Patrol".
    ahhhhh

  26. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cymohn View Post
    Does anyone have weights for thier builds? On paper the Scout looks great except the frame weight concerns me.
    My L-Scout is 12.8kg which is about 28.2lbs. Frame weight is 3420g and thus it gives penalty over carbon frames. I could have used lighter tires and wheels, but other than that it would be hard to make it any lighter without losing its character.

    For those who are considering Scout to have too short travel, advice to get a Patrol is spot on comment. There is no point on building Scout with longer for or changing rear shock to longer travel. Scouts rear suspension is such a supportive behavior, that long for would unbalance the ride.

  27. #127
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    How much slack have you guys and girls got with the hose under the bottom bracket? Mines pretty much in line with the bottom of a 32t ring but im sure I hear them slapping against it on big drops. Even though Im not bottoming out the shock should I increase the pressure?
    Put your phone down and get riding.

  28. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by darrenspink View Post
    How much slack have you guys and girls got with the hose under the bottom bracket? Mines pretty much in line with the bottom of a 32t ring but im sure I hear them slapping against it on big drops. Even though Im not bottoming out the shock should I increase the pressure?
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  29. #129
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    Thanks for taking the time to post them, im in the office at the moment so can't put any pics up but they actually look less then I have. More air is needed in my shock I think.
    Put your phone down and get riding.

  30. #130
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    It's here already!

    Using all the parts from my 5010
    So the build is going to be
    Frame size L
    Pike RCT3 140mm
    XX1 gear 11 speed
    XTR brakes
    Next SL cranks. 32T front
    Easton 750mm 40mm riser handlebar
    Easton 40mm stem
    Reverb
    i23 rims with DT240 hubs

    Can't wait to get it build up. Going to get my 130mm pike extended to 140mm tomorrow and hopefully be able to transfer all the parts without too much hazzle /looking at you internal routing!!Scout Build Thread-img_6690.jpg

  31. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dnn View Post
    It's here already!

    Using all the parts from my 5010
    So the build is going to be
    Frame size L
    Pike RCT3 140mm
    XX1 gear 11 speed
    XTR brakes
    Next SL cranks. 32T front
    Easton 750mm 40mm riser handlebar
    Easton 40mm stem
    Reverb
    i23 rims with DT240 hubs

    Can't wait to get it build up. Going to get my 130mm pike extended to 140mm tomorrow and hopefully be able to transfer all the parts without too much hazzle /looking at you internal routing!!Click image for larger version. 

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    Happy days. Biggest tip I can give is double check your hose lengths before shortening. Remove all the air from the shock and compress it to check how much you need for under the BB.

    I very nearly had to redo my back brake hose.
    Put your phone down and get riding.

  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by darrenspink View Post
    Thanks for taking the time to post them, im in the office at the moment so can't put any pics up but they actually look less then I have. More air is needed in my shock I think.
    I don't think you should adjust the shock pressure to prevent your lines from hitting? Set the pressure according to Transitions recommendations. You want to set the pressure to get the best performance out of the suspension. If your lines are still hitting then the length of the lines needs adjusting. Or zip tied differently.

  33. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    I don't think you should adjust the shock pressure to prevent your lines from hitting? Set the pressure according to Transitions recommendations. You want to set the pressure to get the best performance out of the suspension. If your lines are still hitting then the length of the lines needs adjusting. Or zip tied differently.
    Think I was 10psi under really. Took my pump out with me and measured again.

    No way could I have made them on longer, pretty sure they would be catching on shit.
    Put your phone down and get riding.

  34. #134
    Dnn
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    Quote Originally Posted by darrenspink View Post
    Happy days. Biggest tip I can give is double check your hose lengths before shortening. Remove all the air from the shock and compress it to check how much you need for under the BB.
    Thanks for the advice.
    I'll leave the brake cable to my mechanic as I dont have the tools for installing a new cable.

    Been rolling on road on scout and that extra reach is amazing. Makes me certain I have been on a bike that didnt fit me (The 5010 in L)
    Of course it may all be preference, especially since I'm about 5'11 and most people that height are sizing large on the 5010 and happy about it, but to me at least, that reach is just too short. - Espcially when you want to run a sub 50mm stem.

  35. #135
    Dnn
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    Initial impression on the scout:
    I know how much I like to read about other peoples impressions so here is mine. It's INITIAL, please remember that. I only spend about 4 hours riding pretty mild trails so far. It may sound overly positive but with good reason.

    First thing I noticed is how dialed the bike feel. I didn't need to get used to/adjust to anything. The bike just felt natural to me right away.
    The long(er) reach, low BB, stack height etc. gave a very "in the bike" feeling that I really like.
    When in the attack-position the fit felt spot on - ready for anything.
    My fit: Size L frame, 50mm stem, 750mm bars with 40mm rise, seat pretty far back.


    Stem-length: I tried a 50mm and a 40mm stem. I prefered the 50mm for slightly longer reach while still having a very lively feeling steering.

    "New vs old geometry": Compared to the 5010 (my previous bike for 8 months) the scout actually feel very similar geometry-wise, but with some major things in favor of the scout. The extra reach makes the scout fit/feel so much better. I can't even start telling how much better the fit is for me. I'm absolutely certain that the 5010 geometry/size was just too small for me even a size L and my 5'11 height. The scout just feel "natural" to me. Hard to explain, but just feel like the perfect fit. The fact that I can run a 50mm stem vs previous 70mm stem and still have longer reach is just a gamechanger! The extra 1 degree of slackness was also very welcome.

    Suspension on the scout is very active and feel great. One of my major gripes about my previous bike was the suspension was not good at all - At least for me as a 200+lbs guy. The 5010 came with a Fox CTD and I could never get that thing working for me. When I set it so it felt "good and plush" it would bottom out on tiny roots, when I set it up to recommended pressure for my weight it would feel overly harsh on everything and still bottom out on rough stuff. That shock was just junk on the 5010, at least thats my opinion. The debonair on the scout is the best rear-shock I have ever tried. It is super plush in open, nice in "pedal" for longer smooth trails and the locked setting is really locked! I prefered the "pedal/medium" setting for most stuff. Most likely because I'm so used to a very stiff/harsh shock, but I think I will quickly adapt and run it fully open in most situations. Pedal efficiency is great in medium setting, even standing. In fully open you can push it hard and still feel ok, but standing felt a bit too soft for my initial test, but remember thats on mostly smooth terrain, I can imagine I will love it fully open on fast rough terrain.
    Manual/wheelie was harder for me in fully open because the shock absorb some of the initial "push" In medium or locked it felt pretty similar to the 5010 = quite easy to lift the front wheel.
    Jumping I can't begin to tell you how good it feels to jump on the bike and not feel the bottom out I would feel on the Fox CTD. The bike is very easy to jump on pretty much every little root you may encounter.
    I dont think I need to comment on the Pike fork? - It's simply an amazing fork, enough said!

    Weight: I dont know the exact weight on my scout, but it is pretty "light" with full XX1/XTR, Next SL cranks, carbon bars and so forth. The bike ride very light and I didn't notice the extra weight at all - and I really mean that.

    I love the internal cables clean look, allthough the cables rattle abit but I haven't done much to secure them or wrap the cables yet, hope it will be nice and silent.

    In summary the best thing I can do to describe my initial impression of the scout would simply be that the scout feel "natural" - That may not be MTB approved language, I guess dialed would be the term? What I'm trying to say is that to me the bike is spot on.
    If you have any questions feel free to ask!

  36. #136
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    I pretty much agree with you opinion. I have endded up to ride rear always fully open as the lever is low and hard to reach and the movement while pedaling is so little. Still, rear is forgiving enough, but not too much. I like the shrot travel behavior when it is combined with long front center and relatively slack head angle.

    I run 60mm stem at the moment. It is long. I could try 50mm, but not shorter than that. Longish stem means, that front end washout is not an issue.

    It also looks like I need to tune rear brake cable setup a bit. Luckily there is enough hose at front and thus sliding it to rear is possible. To make installation tidy, also gear cable needs to be adjusted accordingly.

  37. #137
    Dnn
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    Took the Scout on two long trail test sessions the past few days and I'm very happy with my new bike. The rear (Giddy up! paired with debonair) worked very well in all situations and I now run it fully open everywhere. The powerloss/bob feel is minor on climbs (I mostly stay seated on climbs)

    3 of my buddies that have technical skills higher than me tried the scout on a downhill section with plenty of jumps and all of them came back very impressed, at least 1 of them now actively consider buying one.
    Same happened today when I was biking with my bike-club, one of the guys are in the market for a new bike, he tried mine and now it is on the top of his shortlist.

    This is one dangerous bike to test-ride!

  38. #138
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    Read through the previous 6 pages and didn't see it mentioned. My Scout 2 should hopefully be here in time for the long weekend. I went with the cheaper of the 2 build kits because neither really had what I wanted and I was going to be replacing parts anyways so might as well save some money.

    I need to get a dropper post ordered. I'm 5'11, usually wear size 32" inseam jeans and I ordered a Large. I'm a little unsure on size of Reverb Stealth, do I want the 125mm or the 150mm? Also, it looks to come in sizes 380, 420 or 430? I'm guessing that's the insertion depth? My wife tells me size doesn't matter but which would go with the L frame?

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfinn View Post
    Read through the previous 6 pages and didn't see it mentioned. My Scout 2 should hopefully be here in time for the long weekend. I went with the cheaper of the 2 build kits because neither really had what I wanted and I was going to be replacing parts anyways so might as well save some money.

    I need to get a dropper post ordered. I'm 5'11, usually wear size 32" inseam jeans and I ordered a Large. I'm a little unsure on size of Reverb Stealth, do I want the 125mm or the 150mm? Also, it looks to come in sizes 380, 420 or 430? I'm guessing that's the insertion depth? My wife tells me size doesn't matter but which would go with the L frame?
    Im 6'2 (large frame) and have 34 or sometimes 32" trousers etc. With a 125mm I was pretty much on the minimum insertion line with the height of my saddle I like so ordered a 150 stealth which means about 750mm post is showing, it also of course lets me get the saddle well out of the way.
    Put your phone down and get riding.

  40. #140
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    sounds good, I think based on that I can get away with a 125mm, that's what I was running on my previous bike. Do you know what insertion size you went with?

  41. #141
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    Grab a spirit level and measure your true inseam, then you will know better what reverb length you need.

  42. #142
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    Why don't you measure your current saddle height from your current bike. This should tell you exactly what size you need. There is info on height from bottom of the collar to the seat rails for the 125mm and 150mm Reverbs on the internet (I believe). I have a 100mm at home I can measure for you too if need be. Just PM me if you need it.

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfinn View Post
    sounds good, I think based on that I can get away with a 125mm, that's what I was running on my previous bike. Do you know what insertion size you went with?
    The 150mm only comes in one option which is 430.

    I was really unsure at the time so emailed transition just to double check and Sam replied, I'll pass on what he said...

    "
    Everyone's leg length and seat height are different, but here is some info to work with...
    Measure your seat height with your favorite saddle from BB center to the center of the rail/clamp.
    Subtract the seat tube length (457mm for L and 495mm for XL)
    What you are left with is the length needed for exposed seatpost, which you can compare with the Reverb (or other) seatposts.

    Min insertion line on a Reverb is 90mm, so the 150x430 post can go up to 340mm exposed and the 125x420 post can go up to 330mm. The shorter 125x380 post only gets you 290mm.

    If you are super close to that number going a couple mm beyond the min insertion shouldn't be a problem, but obviously proceed with caution and don't push anything too far. "
    Put your phone down and get riding.

  44. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfinn View Post
    sounds good, I think based on that I can get away with a 125mm, that's what I was running on my previous bike. Do you know what insertion size you went with?
    I have a size L Scout, am 5'11" with 32 inseam and the 125 is fine. My reverb isn't inserted to the frame fully so I could probably run the 150 but I think it would be real close. I don't need the extra 25mm of drop, 125 is plenty.

    Here is pic of my bike with the post installed. That space between the collar and the frame is probably 25mm......the 150mm would fit but when I bought the post I wasn't sure and played it safe.

    Scout Build Thread-image.jpg

  45. #145
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    Pike air pressure

    Anyone run the air pressure in their Pike lower than the recommended pressure posted on the fork based on rider weight? I rode a trail the other day and noticed the O ring on my fork was not sliding all the way to the crown! I have the air set to the minimum pressure based on my weight.

  46. #146
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    This is all helpful information regarding the seatpost. I am 5' 11 1/2" with a 32" inseam. I have a Scout 2 with the Kore 400 mm seatpost. The seat does not lower near enough to my liking for steep, technical descents. So, which Rever or KS seatpost would allow me to lower the post as close to the rails as possible?

    I have 2 Knolly's with uninterrupted seat tubes, so I'm use to the saddle completely out of the way for technical descents.

  47. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    Anyone run the air pressure in their Pike lower than the recommended pressure posted on the fork based on rider weight? I rode a trail the other day and noticed the O ring on my fork was not sliding all the way to the crown! I have the air set to the minimum pressure based on my weight.
    I'm running mine at the recommended air pressure and haven't come close to bottoming out the fork yet. So, I will be letting some air out of my fork. I've ridden some pretty nasty trails on this bike, too (Noble Canyon, Grafton Mesa, Rockstacker, Portal, Capt. Ahab, Hogs Trails)!

  48. #148
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    I'm 5'9 and running the 125mm KS Lev on my medium Scout with no issues. Not sure what Reverb would suit.

    As for the Pikes, experiment with the tokens if you're not getting full travel. They normally come with one or two bottomless tokens installed under the air side cap. Just de-pressurise the fork and unscrew the cap. Remove one token and the fork should ramp up less. If there's already none installed, then try less air pressure.

  49. #149
    Dnn
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    My pike didn't bottom out even when I made some failed landings when I ran with recommended pressure. I now run arround 10 PSI below recommended and it feels perfect. But really, it depence on how many tokens you have installed in your fork.

  50. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    I have a size L Scout, am 5'11" with 32 inseam and the 125 is fine. My reverb isn't inserted to the frame fully so I could probably run the 150 but I think it would be real close. I don't need the extra 25mm of drop, 125 is plenty.

    Here is pic of my bike with the post installed. That space between the collar and the frame is probably 25mm......the 150mm would fit but when I bought the post I wasn't sure and played it safe.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Is that Reverb at full height? That saddle looks really low.
    Put your phone down and get riding.

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