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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy R View Post
    I just got (and have already raced last Saturday) a 2015 Fox 36 set at 150mm. Honestly, that is as high as I would go with the Scout. Anything higher and it is going to start to feel unbalanced. Also, it is just not needed. We raced on a really rocky super d course that had rock gardens like a normal DH race track, and the scout ate it up. I was making up time on my buddy on a Nomad through the rocks during practice. 150 feels perfect on that bike for the rough stuff.
    Yeah you're right, just thinking out loud really as I need to get some beefier forks from what I have at the moment (RS 150 revelations) and wondered if I should go up a bit as well.
    Put your phone down and get riding.

  2. #102
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    Scout Build Thread-img_1778.jpg

    This bike rips!

  3. #103
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    I just browsed this thread through and didn't found any front deraileur. Could someone post a pic of Scout with front deraileur, please. I have removed front deraileur hanger from my Scout, but cable stop remains in rear swingarm.

    I also noticed that many of us are setting saddle way forward. I also tuned mine that way after first ride.

  4. #104
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    Anybody happen to know when the next transition shipment is coming in? I have a frame on order and was told late May/early June. Just curious if anybody has any updated ETA's.

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by troh View Post
    I just browsed this thread through and didn't found any front deraileur. Could someone post a pic of Scout with front deraileur, please. I have removed front deraileur hanger from my Scout, but cable stop remains in rear swingarm.
    This is mine until I go a 1x setup.

    Scout Build Thread-20150502_145102.jpg
    Scout Build Thread-20150502_145113.jpg

  6. #106
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    Ended up going a 150mm Pike for the front. If I find the front end wanders on climbs too much, the conversion parts for 140mm are like $45.

  7. #107
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    Scout Build Thread-image.jpg

    This bike just gets better every time I ride it!

  8. #108
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    Hi guyz,

    Here it is !
    Hot or not: Transition Scout de Karim | MTB-CHECK
    This bike is so fun to ride !!

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by toodles View Post
    This is mine until I go a 1x setup.
    Now it doesn't anymore feel so bad that there are those extra parts ;-)

    I have now Shimano 1x10 in TransAm with extension cog and Sram 1x11 in Scout. Both are usable solutions. Sram setup is faultless as it is installed as originally planned. Shimano setup is missing 15t cog and thus there is a big jump for gears used in road riding. Thus when commuting to work, it is a fault, but when riding trails, it is no problem at all. Thus if somebody asks my opinion, I promote 1x10 setup for those who sees money as an object. It is not that bad. If you can afford, Sram setup, or new Shimano 11 speed setup... For me, front deraileur is only for road bike. Maybe if riding big mountain ascents, I would change my opinion.

  10. #110
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    I just took the plunge too and ordered a Scout limeade frame!

    I come from a santa cruz 5010 and allthough I really really like the bike it is just too short for me. I'm 5'11 and have a size L. The reach is just too short and I feel OTB feeling in many situations and I feel I get way to much over the bars in attack position. I also feel "On top" rather then "in" the bike because of the short reach if that makes any sence. The above + my back start hurting after long rides.

    I've tried other bikes with longer reach and everytime it's just hard to hold back the jealousy - It just feels alot better.

    So to maintain the great features from the 5010 like low BB and general playfulness I came across the scout and it seems like the perfect bike for me.

    I ordered a size large frame and pretty much have every other part of the bike from my 5010 so that's a nice and easy ... transition ....

    Anyone gone a similar way?

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dnn View Post
    I just took the plunge too and ordered a Scout limeade frame!

    I come from a santa cruz 5010 and allthough I really really like the bike it is just too short for me. I'm 5'11 and have a size L.
    Did you test ride the scout?

    I could use some help between a scout, spider275, and 5010. Had a bandit, blur 4x setup as trail bike, carbon Bronson but want a poppy bike with a short cs.

    The scout looks like a great setup, but I know VPP well and with 33yrs of Bmx under my belt my instinct to accelerate is to stand - which is where VPP is pretty good. Add to that my trails are only 1-2 hundred feet of elevation and steep/rolling like rollercoasters - 1 min climb, 30 sec descend, repeat (no need for intervals right?)

    I have no experience with Horst link. How is the scout for out of the saddle bursts (especially if you can compare with 5010) ?

    If you run a 36t ring do you lose efficiency (lose some anti-squat)?

    Any info is good info
    believe in yourself! I believe in you!

  12. #112
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    Grizzy. ^


    I came off of a Blur LT2 and really liked that bike. That Blur was a great all arounder but I can't believe how much more fun the Scout is. My Blur I found seated was the best climbing, standing would cause the back end to spin out. The Scout my best climbing is standing. This may be just my style of pedaling, spastic and unrefined, but the Horst link eats up my rapid pedal strokes. I ride nearly the same kind of trails you describe, tough up hills with very short down hills. Never seems to be a reward for all the technical climbing. Trails are nothing but roots,rocks, roots and more rocks. I am having so much more fun on the Scout than on my Blur......and my Blur was a lot of fun!

    I have 32 teeth chainring with 42 teeth extended cog and am toying with 30 teeth chainring for all the steep, technical climbing.

  13. #113
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    Hi all,
    In the process of building up my scout frame and am about to purchase a Lev Integra. Any of you running a 150mm dropper post on a medium frame? I'm 5'10" with long legs-33" inseam, wondering if the 435mm post will be OK? Thx,
    transition bike company

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dnn View Post
    Anyone gone a similar way?
    Yes, I own a large 5010 also and loved the fit and feel of the large Scout at 5' 11". The 5olo didn't feel way too short with a 60mm stem until I rode the Scout and new Endorphin which both fit very similar and I can run a shorter stem and still have more room. It's the only gripe I have with my 5olo.

    New 27.5 Endorphin on order and will switch over parts.


    And to Grizzy: If your trails are smooth short ups and downs the 5010c and Flux or M4c would be my pick. If you get lots of bumps and roots on your short ups and downs then the Scout will own it. I loved standing and hammering the Scout on short ups and downs especially when the trail surface was rough. The tire just stayed glued to the trail and the bike as a whole stayed stable and moved forward with authority.

    Like I said, though, if the trails are smooth I think the VPP and especially the dw links are even more efficient and accelerate faster on standing sprints, but I was pleasantly surprised at how responsive the Scout is.
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
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  15. #115
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    Quick question; Scout + 150mm Pike = __ head angle?

  16. #116
    Dnn
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    Quote Originally Posted by KRob View Post
    Yes, I own a large 5010 also and loved the fit and feel of the large Scout at 5' 11". The 5olo didn't feel way too short with a 60mm stem until I rode the Scout and new Endorphin which both fit very similar and I can run a shorter stem and still have more room. It's the only gripe I have with my 5olo.
    Hey KRob.
    I've followed your blog and I hoped you might reply to this topic, so thanks.
    What you describe is exactly why I made the change.
    I've tried bikes with longer reach and those just feel alot better to me.
    Another thing I can't go without is a short sub 50mm stem, currently I have a 40mm stem ready for the scout. After I've tried just how much better short stems feel for me I just dont feel good with a 70mm stem on my 5010. If I go lower than 70mm on my 5010 I feel my body is over the handlebars in attack position and just generally feel unbalanced. I tried alot of diffrent options on my 5010 but just had to accept that the reach was just too short. Or maybe a more precise term would be that with a long stem the reach was ok'ish, but the front wheel seemed too close and I felt unbalanced, and I just prefered the feel of a <50mm stem so much more.

    Myb trails are not in anyway super technical, but we do have alot of roots/small jumps etc. and at times I felt the VPP felt a bit harsh, epspecially since I'm a 200+lbs person and the fox CTD is just too harsh if I dont want it to bottom out on everything. I know people have suggested DBinline, but that upgrade is pretty pricey and along with the reach problem it made me take the jump. I realized too late that I prefer a long front end, but well, you live you learn and dollars you burn.

    I dont mind the extra weight on the scout. I'm no racer, just a "as fun as possible ride" guy. My 5010 is the XX1 build, with XTR, Next SL, 240's etc. and pretty much all the parts can be switched to the scout without any changes needed. (well, the pike extended to 140mm but thats about it) So the final build should be quite "light"

    David
    Most bikes slack/steepen HA about .5 degrees per 10mm.
    So your new HA would be arround 66.5 I believe.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dnn View Post
    David
    Most bikes slack/steepen HA about .5 degrees per 10mm.
    So your new HA would be arround 66.5 I believe.
    Cheers! I'm loving the look of the Scout, if it had 140mm in the back I probably have one on order already. I'm sure it's not likely to be that big a deal for most of my riding, but something in my mind keeps saying I need/want at least as much if not more travel as I already have...

  18. #118
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    Does anyone have weights for thier builds? On paper the Scout looks great except the frame weight concerns me.

  19. #119
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    They're not light bikes that's for sure. My XL is 29.5 lbs, but that's with flow ex wheels. I bet guys with smaller frames are getting down to the 28 lb range. Next year when the carbon frame comes out I'll be switching.

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by David R View Post
    Cheers! I'm loving the look of the Scout, if it had 140mm in the back I probably have one on order already. I'm sure it's not likely to be that big a deal for most of my riding, but something in my mind keeps saying I need/want at least as much if not more travel as I already have...
    Buy a Patrol.

  21. #121
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    Guess I really need to ride one to see how that 65* HA is going to work on the tighter slower stuff. No demo bikes here in NZ til next summer though, could work out OK if I'm patient as the carbon ones might be getting close by then...

  22. #122
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    Should be approximately .5 degrees slacker- typically for every 20 mm increase = 1 degree slacker.
    Quote Originally Posted by David R View Post
    Quick question; Scout + 150mm Pike = __ head angle?

  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by David R View Post
    Guess I really need to ride one to see how that 65* HA is going to work on the tighter slower stuff. No demo bikes here in NZ til next summer though, could work out OK if I'm patient as the carbon ones might be getting close by then...
    Wouldn't 150 pike bring HA to 66.5?

  24. #124
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    Yeah, my comment was in response to the guy who said "buy a Patrol".

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by David R View Post
    Yeah, my comment was in response to the guy who said "buy a Patrol".
    ahhhhh

  26. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cymohn View Post
    Does anyone have weights for thier builds? On paper the Scout looks great except the frame weight concerns me.
    My L-Scout is 12.8kg which is about 28.2lbs. Frame weight is 3420g and thus it gives penalty over carbon frames. I could have used lighter tires and wheels, but other than that it would be hard to make it any lighter without losing its character.

    For those who are considering Scout to have too short travel, advice to get a Patrol is spot on comment. There is no point on building Scout with longer for or changing rear shock to longer travel. Scouts rear suspension is such a supportive behavior, that long for would unbalance the ride.

  27. #127
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    How much slack have you guys and girls got with the hose under the bottom bracket? Mines pretty much in line with the bottom of a 32t ring but im sure I hear them slapping against it on big drops. Even though Im not bottoming out the shock should I increase the pressure?
    Put your phone down and get riding.

  28. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by darrenspink View Post
    How much slack have you guys and girls got with the hose under the bottom bracket? Mines pretty much in line with the bottom of a 32t ring but im sure I hear them slapping against it on big drops. Even though Im not bottoming out the shock should I increase the pressure?
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  29. #129
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    Thanks for taking the time to post them, im in the office at the moment so can't put any pics up but they actually look less then I have. More air is needed in my shock I think.
    Put your phone down and get riding.

  30. #130
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    It's here already!

    Using all the parts from my 5010
    So the build is going to be
    Frame size L
    Pike RCT3 140mm
    XX1 gear 11 speed
    XTR brakes
    Next SL cranks. 32T front
    Easton 750mm 40mm riser handlebar
    Easton 40mm stem
    Reverb
    i23 rims with DT240 hubs

    Can't wait to get it build up. Going to get my 130mm pike extended to 140mm tomorrow and hopefully be able to transfer all the parts without too much hazzle /looking at you internal routing!!Scout Build Thread-img_6690.jpg

  31. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dnn View Post
    It's here already!

    Using all the parts from my 5010
    So the build is going to be
    Frame size L
    Pike RCT3 140mm
    XX1 gear 11 speed
    XTR brakes
    Next SL cranks. 32T front
    Easton 750mm 40mm riser handlebar
    Easton 40mm stem
    Reverb
    i23 rims with DT240 hubs

    Can't wait to get it build up. Going to get my 130mm pike extended to 140mm tomorrow and hopefully be able to transfer all the parts without too much hazzle /looking at you internal routing!!Click image for larger version. 

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    Happy days. Biggest tip I can give is double check your hose lengths before shortening. Remove all the air from the shock and compress it to check how much you need for under the BB.

    I very nearly had to redo my back brake hose.
    Put your phone down and get riding.

  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by darrenspink View Post
    Thanks for taking the time to post them, im in the office at the moment so can't put any pics up but they actually look less then I have. More air is needed in my shock I think.
    I don't think you should adjust the shock pressure to prevent your lines from hitting? Set the pressure according to Transitions recommendations. You want to set the pressure to get the best performance out of the suspension. If your lines are still hitting then the length of the lines needs adjusting. Or zip tied differently.

  33. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    I don't think you should adjust the shock pressure to prevent your lines from hitting? Set the pressure according to Transitions recommendations. You want to set the pressure to get the best performance out of the suspension. If your lines are still hitting then the length of the lines needs adjusting. Or zip tied differently.
    Think I was 10psi under really. Took my pump out with me and measured again.

    No way could I have made them on longer, pretty sure they would be catching on shit.
    Put your phone down and get riding.

  34. #134
    Dnn
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    Quote Originally Posted by darrenspink View Post
    Happy days. Biggest tip I can give is double check your hose lengths before shortening. Remove all the air from the shock and compress it to check how much you need for under the BB.
    Thanks for the advice.
    I'll leave the brake cable to my mechanic as I dont have the tools for installing a new cable.

    Been rolling on road on scout and that extra reach is amazing. Makes me certain I have been on a bike that didnt fit me (The 5010 in L)
    Of course it may all be preference, especially since I'm about 5'11 and most people that height are sizing large on the 5010 and happy about it, but to me at least, that reach is just too short. - Espcially when you want to run a sub 50mm stem.

  35. #135
    Dnn
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    Initial impression on the scout:
    I know how much I like to read about other peoples impressions so here is mine. It's INITIAL, please remember that. I only spend about 4 hours riding pretty mild trails so far. It may sound overly positive but with good reason.

    First thing I noticed is how dialed the bike feel. I didn't need to get used to/adjust to anything. The bike just felt natural to me right away.
    The long(er) reach, low BB, stack height etc. gave a very "in the bike" feeling that I really like.
    When in the attack-position the fit felt spot on - ready for anything.
    My fit: Size L frame, 50mm stem, 750mm bars with 40mm rise, seat pretty far back.


    Stem-length: I tried a 50mm and a 40mm stem. I prefered the 50mm for slightly longer reach while still having a very lively feeling steering.

    "New vs old geometry": Compared to the 5010 (my previous bike for 8 months) the scout actually feel very similar geometry-wise, but with some major things in favor of the scout. The extra reach makes the scout fit/feel so much better. I can't even start telling how much better the fit is for me. I'm absolutely certain that the 5010 geometry/size was just too small for me even a size L and my 5'11 height. The scout just feel "natural" to me. Hard to explain, but just feel like the perfect fit. The fact that I can run a 50mm stem vs previous 70mm stem and still have longer reach is just a gamechanger! The extra 1 degree of slackness was also very welcome.

    Suspension on the scout is very active and feel great. One of my major gripes about my previous bike was the suspension was not good at all - At least for me as a 200+lbs guy. The 5010 came with a Fox CTD and I could never get that thing working for me. When I set it so it felt "good and plush" it would bottom out on tiny roots, when I set it up to recommended pressure for my weight it would feel overly harsh on everything and still bottom out on rough stuff. That shock was just junk on the 5010, at least thats my opinion. The debonair on the scout is the best rear-shock I have ever tried. It is super plush in open, nice in "pedal" for longer smooth trails and the locked setting is really locked! I prefered the "pedal/medium" setting for most stuff. Most likely because I'm so used to a very stiff/harsh shock, but I think I will quickly adapt and run it fully open in most situations. Pedal efficiency is great in medium setting, even standing. In fully open you can push it hard and still feel ok, but standing felt a bit too soft for my initial test, but remember thats on mostly smooth terrain, I can imagine I will love it fully open on fast rough terrain.
    Manual/wheelie was harder for me in fully open because the shock absorb some of the initial "push" In medium or locked it felt pretty similar to the 5010 = quite easy to lift the front wheel.
    Jumping I can't begin to tell you how good it feels to jump on the bike and not feel the bottom out I would feel on the Fox CTD. The bike is very easy to jump on pretty much every little root you may encounter.
    I dont think I need to comment on the Pike fork? - It's simply an amazing fork, enough said!

    Weight: I dont know the exact weight on my scout, but it is pretty "light" with full XX1/XTR, Next SL cranks, carbon bars and so forth. The bike ride very light and I didn't notice the extra weight at all - and I really mean that.

    I love the internal cables clean look, allthough the cables rattle abit but I haven't done much to secure them or wrap the cables yet, hope it will be nice and silent.

    In summary the best thing I can do to describe my initial impression of the scout would simply be that the scout feel "natural" - That may not be MTB approved language, I guess dialed would be the term? What I'm trying to say is that to me the bike is spot on.
    If you have any questions feel free to ask!

  36. #136
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    I pretty much agree with you opinion. I have endded up to ride rear always fully open as the lever is low and hard to reach and the movement while pedaling is so little. Still, rear is forgiving enough, but not too much. I like the shrot travel behavior when it is combined with long front center and relatively slack head angle.

    I run 60mm stem at the moment. It is long. I could try 50mm, but not shorter than that. Longish stem means, that front end washout is not an issue.

    It also looks like I need to tune rear brake cable setup a bit. Luckily there is enough hose at front and thus sliding it to rear is possible. To make installation tidy, also gear cable needs to be adjusted accordingly.

  37. #137
    Dnn
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    Took the Scout on two long trail test sessions the past few days and I'm very happy with my new bike. The rear (Giddy up! paired with debonair) worked very well in all situations and I now run it fully open everywhere. The powerloss/bob feel is minor on climbs (I mostly stay seated on climbs)

    3 of my buddies that have technical skills higher than me tried the scout on a downhill section with plenty of jumps and all of them came back very impressed, at least 1 of them now actively consider buying one.
    Same happened today when I was biking with my bike-club, one of the guys are in the market for a new bike, he tried mine and now it is on the top of his shortlist.

    This is one dangerous bike to test-ride!

  38. #138
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    Read through the previous 6 pages and didn't see it mentioned. My Scout 2 should hopefully be here in time for the long weekend. I went with the cheaper of the 2 build kits because neither really had what I wanted and I was going to be replacing parts anyways so might as well save some money.

    I need to get a dropper post ordered. I'm 5'11, usually wear size 32" inseam jeans and I ordered a Large. I'm a little unsure on size of Reverb Stealth, do I want the 125mm or the 150mm? Also, it looks to come in sizes 380, 420 or 430? I'm guessing that's the insertion depth? My wife tells me size doesn't matter but which would go with the L frame?

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfinn View Post
    Read through the previous 6 pages and didn't see it mentioned. My Scout 2 should hopefully be here in time for the long weekend. I went with the cheaper of the 2 build kits because neither really had what I wanted and I was going to be replacing parts anyways so might as well save some money.

    I need to get a dropper post ordered. I'm 5'11, usually wear size 32" inseam jeans and I ordered a Large. I'm a little unsure on size of Reverb Stealth, do I want the 125mm or the 150mm? Also, it looks to come in sizes 380, 420 or 430? I'm guessing that's the insertion depth? My wife tells me size doesn't matter but which would go with the L frame?
    Im 6'2 (large frame) and have 34 or sometimes 32" trousers etc. With a 125mm I was pretty much on the minimum insertion line with the height of my saddle I like so ordered a 150 stealth which means about 750mm post is showing, it also of course lets me get the saddle well out of the way.
    Put your phone down and get riding.

  40. #140
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    sounds good, I think based on that I can get away with a 125mm, that's what I was running on my previous bike. Do you know what insertion size you went with?

  41. #141
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    Grab a spirit level and measure your true inseam, then you will know better what reverb length you need.

  42. #142
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    Why don't you measure your current saddle height from your current bike. This should tell you exactly what size you need. There is info on height from bottom of the collar to the seat rails for the 125mm and 150mm Reverbs on the internet (I believe). I have a 100mm at home I can measure for you too if need be. Just PM me if you need it.

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfinn View Post
    sounds good, I think based on that I can get away with a 125mm, that's what I was running on my previous bike. Do you know what insertion size you went with?
    The 150mm only comes in one option which is 430.

    I was really unsure at the time so emailed transition just to double check and Sam replied, I'll pass on what he said...

    "
    Everyone's leg length and seat height are different, but here is some info to work with...
    Measure your seat height with your favorite saddle from BB center to the center of the rail/clamp.
    Subtract the seat tube length (457mm for L and 495mm for XL)
    What you are left with is the length needed for exposed seatpost, which you can compare with the Reverb (or other) seatposts.

    Min insertion line on a Reverb is 90mm, so the 150x430 post can go up to 340mm exposed and the 125x420 post can go up to 330mm. The shorter 125x380 post only gets you 290mm.

    If you are super close to that number going a couple mm beyond the min insertion shouldn't be a problem, but obviously proceed with caution and don't push anything too far. "
    Put your phone down and get riding.

  44. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfinn View Post
    sounds good, I think based on that I can get away with a 125mm, that's what I was running on my previous bike. Do you know what insertion size you went with?
    I have a size L Scout, am 5'11" with 32 inseam and the 125 is fine. My reverb isn't inserted to the frame fully so I could probably run the 150 but I think it would be real close. I don't need the extra 25mm of drop, 125 is plenty.

    Here is pic of my bike with the post installed. That space between the collar and the frame is probably 25mm......the 150mm would fit but when I bought the post I wasn't sure and played it safe.

    Scout Build Thread-image.jpg

  45. #145
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    Pike air pressure

    Anyone run the air pressure in their Pike lower than the recommended pressure posted on the fork based on rider weight? I rode a trail the other day and noticed the O ring on my fork was not sliding all the way to the crown! I have the air set to the minimum pressure based on my weight.

  46. #146
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    This is all helpful information regarding the seatpost. I am 5' 11 1/2" with a 32" inseam. I have a Scout 2 with the Kore 400 mm seatpost. The seat does not lower near enough to my liking for steep, technical descents. So, which Rever or KS seatpost would allow me to lower the post as close to the rails as possible?

    I have 2 Knolly's with uninterrupted seat tubes, so I'm use to the saddle completely out of the way for technical descents.

  47. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    Anyone run the air pressure in their Pike lower than the recommended pressure posted on the fork based on rider weight? I rode a trail the other day and noticed the O ring on my fork was not sliding all the way to the crown! I have the air set to the minimum pressure based on my weight.
    I'm running mine at the recommended air pressure and haven't come close to bottoming out the fork yet. So, I will be letting some air out of my fork. I've ridden some pretty nasty trails on this bike, too (Noble Canyon, Grafton Mesa, Rockstacker, Portal, Capt. Ahab, Hogs Trails)!

  48. #148
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    I'm 5'9 and running the 125mm KS Lev on my medium Scout with no issues. Not sure what Reverb would suit.

    As for the Pikes, experiment with the tokens if you're not getting full travel. They normally come with one or two bottomless tokens installed under the air side cap. Just de-pressurise the fork and unscrew the cap. Remove one token and the fork should ramp up less. If there's already none installed, then try less air pressure.

  49. #149
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    My pike didn't bottom out even when I made some failed landings when I ran with recommended pressure. I now run arround 10 PSI below recommended and it feels perfect. But really, it depence on how many tokens you have installed in your fork.

  50. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    I have a size L Scout, am 5'11" with 32 inseam and the 125 is fine. My reverb isn't inserted to the frame fully so I could probably run the 150 but I think it would be real close. I don't need the extra 25mm of drop, 125 is plenty.

    Here is pic of my bike with the post installed. That space between the collar and the frame is probably 25mm......the 150mm would fit but when I bought the post I wasn't sure and played it safe.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Is that Reverb at full height? That saddle looks really low.
    Put your phone down and get riding.

  51. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by darrenspink View Post
    Is that Reverb at full height? That saddle looks really low.
    That's fully extended. It's a 125.

  52. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dnn View Post
    My pike didn't bottom out even when I made some failed landings when I ran with recommended pressure. I now run arround 10 PSI below recommended and it feels perfect. But really, it depence on how many tokens you have installed in your fork.
    I will try running lower pressure first. I bought the Scout 2 build so the Pike came on the bike. Not sure how many tokens are in there. Guy I rode with this weekend had a Scout and he was bottoming out his fork on the same trail. He mentioned his was lower air pressure than the recommendations. Other guys on the ride with Pikes said the same thing.

  53. #153
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    Here are a couple of more pics of my Scout.
    I have the new 36 set to 150, and have the CC Inline on there as well. Loving this bike to death.



    SEI Racing

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    oooooh, nice!!! Digging the red i9 spokes and the 36 looks burley...then again, the Scout is such a burley framed beast that it fits very well. Jeremy, did you have any saddle time with the Monarch before switching to the inline? Any comparisons you can provide?

  55. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmittyPDX View Post
    oooooh, nice!!! Digging the red i9 spokes and the 36 looks burley...then again, the Scout is such a burley framed beast that it fits very well. Jeremy, did you have any saddle time with the Monarch before switching to the inline? Any comparisons you can provide?
    Thanks.
    Yes, I got in at least 4 good rides on the Monarch. I already had the Inline from the Bandit, but I got it rebuilt with fresh oil for the Scout. First off, I thought the Monarch worked really well on the Scout.. WAY WAY better than some other stock shocks that have come on my bikes. Off the top of the stroke, the Monarch had a very coil like feel to it which felt great on small bumps. And Transition had it dialed to where it ramps up well at the end of its travel too.
    With the inline and all its adjustments, it just provides a really controlled ride from beginning to end. The Scout pedals with less movement with the inline and I never have to flip any levers. It also just eats up medium and big hits alike. My honest opinion is that the inline is perfect on this bike but the monarch was really good with no glaring weaknesses either.
    The 36 on the other hand totally dominates. It is ridiculous how good that fork rides and its adjustments match up well with the inline.
    SEI Racing

  56. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy R View Post
    Thanks.
    Yes, I got in at least 4 good rides on the Monarch. I already had the Inline from the Bandit, but I got it rebuilt with fresh oil for the Scout. First off, I thought the Monarch worked really well on the Scout.. WAY WAY better than some other stock shocks that have come on my bikes. Off the top of the stroke, the Monarch had a very coil like feel to it which felt great on small bumps. And Transition had it dialed to where it ramps up well at the end of its travel too.
    With the inline and all its adjustments, it just provides a really controlled ride from beginning to end. The Scout pedals with less movement with the inline and I never have to flip any levers. It also just eats up medium and big hits alike. My honest opinion is that the inline is perfect on this bike but the monarch was really good with no glaring weaknesses either.
    The 36 on the other hand totally dominates. It is ridiculous how good that fork rides and its adjustments match up well with the inline.
    Interesting, 190x50 isn't it? Just looking at one for sale at the moment.
    Put your phone down and get riding.

  57. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by darrenspink View Post
    Interesting, 190x50 isn't it? Just looking at one for sale at the moment.
    Personally I like the monarch and wouldn't go out spending relatively big money on a "maybe better shock"
    I've heard people who prefer the monarch over the inline at least as much as I have heard the opposite.

    The monarch is pretty darn good on the scout and everyone who have tried the monarch on the scout are impressed if not very impressed with it.

    But of course, if you have money to burn why not?

  58. #158
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    Can any body let me know how the stock build i23 rims are, are they flexy at all.

    Also I was thinking of selling them before I ride them and buying some spank oozy 295,s. Would the wide rim be okay on the rear chainstay.I note tyre clearance isn't great but my thinking is that this will flatten out the tyre profile so not a problem diameter wise but wondered if the width would be okay.

    Any good or bad experience of the Spank wheelset, my second slightly more costly choice is DT Swizz ex1501 or XM1501. also considered hope endure tech but whilst they are bombproof they are also relatively heavy.

  59. #159
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    I have Ryde Trace Enduro rims that are almos 29mm wide internally. At least Schwalbe Rock Razor fits fine and there is plenty of mud clearance everywhere. I haven't yet tried any other tyre and thus can't say much. Rock Razor is not the smallest 2.35" tire.

    WTB i23 rims are OK. Not the lightest and not widest, but decent in all aspects. I had them in my TransAm for a while and had no issues. To replace them with better set means big chunk of money. DT XM1501 would be lighter, but width is about the same. EX-set would be wider, but then the weight is the same. Would it break some rules, if consider Specialized Rovals? Ryde Trace custom builds are OK too, if use quality hubs and spokes.

  60. #160
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    TL;DR : super fun, very playful, great all around trail bike



    Bike: Large Transition Scout 2
    Me: 5'11, 220lbs, 32" levis. not great shape but not horrible either, can ride a bike OK, mostly DH background but been riding more trails lately

    This showed up on Wednesday, got it built in time for 3 days of riding in Moab, all on new trails that I had never been on. I rode it on a mix of chunky and slightly less chunky. I swapped out the stem and bars for something shorter and wider and also added a stealth reverb dropper, other than that it's the stock 2 build kit.

    I was looking for something that would be playful but could still take a beating and handle light DH riding. I do have a DH bike but don't ride it a ton around Salt Lake because most of our trails just don't really require a full on DH rig so the trail bike spot in the quiver does tend to see some good abuse. This bike will also get used for longer days and messing around but I do have a hardtail that I generally grab for more XC'ish stuff. I'm coming off a 26" Knolly Endorphin.

    Uphill:

    Pedals really well. It's definitely very active on the climb, even with the Debonair in trail mode. I don't mind that and it was one of the things I liked about the Knolly. Seated climbing on flat stuff didn't produce much bob but I did get some while out of the saddle. I went with the 2 build kit knowing I would be replacing most things and right now the wheels, cassette and cranks are on the heavy side and it's noticeable but once I drop some rotational weight I think this bike will do just fine.

    Downhill:

    This bike is exactly what I was hoping for. It's very playful, it wants to jump off of and over everything but it will also do the plow things just fine if that's what you want or you get tired. Feels like more than 125mm of travel in the rear. Corners great with it's super low BB but that is definitely something I have to be cautious of, I got tons of pedal strikes and I think I also hit the chainring a few times too. It was just while climbing but I definitely have to be very mindful of where the pedals are on the DH. Easy to manual and get the front end up and over things. It has that in rather than on feel that I was hoping for. It doesn't seem to do anything weird and I was immediately feeling comfortable on it. The L seems to fit me perfectly, it's just slightly longer than the L Endo it's replacing.

    Compared to the Endorphin: Maybe doesn't climb quite as well but it's close, faster and more playful on the descent.

    I think that's about it. Generally really psyched about it.

  61. #161
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    A couple pics from my recent trail romp. Picked up some custom pike decals that match the color pretty well.




  62. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmittyPDX View Post
    A couple pics from my recent trail romp. Picked up some custom pike decals that match the color pretty well.



    Nice guard, did you do it?
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  63. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfinn View Post
    TL;DR : super fun, very playful, great all around trail bike

    Compared to the Endorphin: Maybe doesn't climb quite as well but it's close, faster and more playful on the descent.
    Could you expand a little bit on the Endorphin comparison? I had an Endo at the beginning of last year and never really got along with it on the faster/ choppier trails. Mostly felt like I would always overwhelm the shock, and the climbing wasn't as awesome as I expected.
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miércoles!"

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  64. #164
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    Sure. I will say that I really didn't get along with my Endo with the stock shock either. I first had the Fox CTD tuned by SuspensionWerx and that made a huge difference. The way it came stock just didn't have a usable range of rebound adjustment with the amount of air I was having to run in it. I ran it with the tuned CTD for a while before switching to a CC Inline. The Inline was a pretty big improvement across the board on the Endo.

    Regarding the Scout vs Endo climbing, I do feel like there is more pedal bob going on with the Scout when really putting power to the pedals. Even with the shock in climb mode (or whatever RS calls it). At times it feels like the Scout is a bit unruly and bouncing around while trying to climb through really techy or chunky sections. Bare in mind that I've only had the bike for a weekend and I'm still getting the shock setup but that's my .02c.

  65. #165
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    Yay! It's build time. Hopefully I'll get it done by the weekend. Anyone else going with a 2016 Fox 34?

    Scout Build Thread-img_1062.jpgScout Build Thread-img_1063.jpg

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    Yemi

  66. #166
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    I figured it was about time to let the world know I finally got my Scout built.

    Scout Build Thread-img_6227.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Scout Build Thread-img_6229.jpg  


  67. #167
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    Ooooh weee!!! Ccdb air cs on that bad boy!!! Dig the wheel decals too. Make sure you give a ride report once you go some miles on her.

  68. #168
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    The more I look at these the more I want one. I'm currently on a sb66, would I miss the extra inch of travel? I rode all over Utah for what it's worth. I've owned quite a few bikes and learned that more travel is not necessarily better travel.

  69. #169
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    I finished my Scout build this week and finally took it for a spin in Santa Cruz. The bike is fun! I think the biggest factor is geometry. The longer reach combined with a 40mm stem allows you to really attack technical descents. The low bottom bracket gives you that "inside the bike" confidence. Anyone with a BMX background should love this bike. it jumps and corners really well.

    I've been riding a slacker 160mm bike (Orbea Rallon) for the past 9 months. The Scout is very capable, but it cannot blast through big rock gardens quite like the Orbea. The Scout is definitely more flickable though and I was bunnyhopping objects at every opportunity. It's exactly what I was looking for. My quiver of bikes is complete.

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    Scout Build Thread-img_bike.jpg

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    Figured I would chime in after about a week of riding.

    I'm afraid to fully open up the scout. It quite literally scares me.

    Every other bike I've owned or been on has had a clear "edge" that is really apparent. Ride up until that edge and you're good, go past it and things go bad.

    I keep throwing the bike at things expecting it to not work out, and instead of feeling like its beyond its capabilities, it seems that I'm not even close to what this bike can dish out.

    I haven't even used full travel yet.

    Component Check:

    Ibis 741 Wheels: Go buy them, right now. Do it. Not only are they reasonably priced, but they make the bike feel like it's on rails. The traction you get from the wheel set makes my former 29'er blush. It is approaching fat bike levels. Screw 27.5+ and just run wide rims.

    150MM Pike: Yep, it's a pike. Believe the hype.

    Cane Creek Double Barrel Air Climb Switch: Besides having the world's longest abbreviation (CCDBACS), it also the world's most doubt inducing component. If you don't like fiddling, suspension theory, looking at suspension leverage charts, and a whole lot of second guessing then stick with the base shock. That being said, the climb switch is worth it's weight in gold. It takes the already goat like ability of the bike and makes it. . . more goat like. . . As for the down hill performance, I took the recommended settings from the patrol, set it to 33% sag, and stuck a large air spacer in it and it's freaking awesome. Probably will end up putting one or two smaller air spacers in there, but that's just because I like a progressive shock (and the rear is so very linear). That all being said, still haven't managed to bottom out the shock. . .

    oneUp'ed Shimano Xt with 42 back and 34 Wolf Tooth in front: 34x42 is ambitious, but completely doable with this bike. Shifting is fantastic and I don't need to bother with Sram. Best 1 by conversion ever.

    Shimano XT: Wouldn't want anything else

    KS Lev: I've had great experience with them, It's a dropper though, and my disdain for the hydraulic system that the Reverb has, plus the southpaw conversion is well worth the higher price tag. Plus their customer service is awesome.

    TL;DR I've probably bought a bike that will forever be WAY better than I am a rider.

  71. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by DServy View Post
    Figured I would chime in after about a week of riding.

    I'm afraid to fully open up the scout. It quite literally scares me.

    Every other bike I've owned or been on has had a clear "edge" that is really apparent. Ride up until that edge and you're good, go past it and things go bad.

    I keep throwing the bike at things expecting it to not work out, and instead of feeling like its beyond its capabilities, it seems that I'm not even close to what this bike can dish out.

    I haven't even used full travel yet.

    Component Check:

    Ibis 741 Wheels: Go buy them, right now. Do it. Not only are they reasonably priced, but they make the bike feel like it's on rails. The traction you get from the wheel set makes my former 29'er blush. It is approaching fat bike levels. Screw 27.5+ and just run wide rims.

    150MM Pike: Yep, it's a pike. Believe the hype.

    Cane Creek Double Barrel Air Climb Switch: Besides having the world's longest abbreviation (CCDBACS), it also the world's most doubt inducing component. If you don't like fiddling, suspension theory, looking at suspension leverage charts, and a whole lot of second guessing then stick with the base shock. That being said, the climb switch is worth it's weight in gold. It takes the already goat like ability of the bike and makes it. . . more goat like. . . As for the down hill performance, I took the recommended settings from the patrol, set it to 33% sag, and stuck a large air spacer in it and it's freaking awesome. Probably will end up putting one or two smaller air spacers in there, but that's just because I like a progressive shock (and the rear is so very linear). That all being said, still haven't managed to bottom out the shock. . .

    oneUp'ed Shimano Xt with 42 back and 34 Wolf Tooth in front: 34x42 is ambitious, but completely doable with this bike. Shifting is fantastic and I don't need to bother with Sram. Best 1 by conversion ever.

    Shimano XT: Wouldn't want anything else

    KS Lev: I've had great experience with them, It's a dropper though, and my disdain for the hydraulic system that the Reverb has, plus the southpaw conversion is well worth the higher price tag. Plus their customer service is awesome.

    TL;DR I've probably bought a bike that will forever be WAY better than I am a rider.
    Interesting that you choose that shock, did you just have it to hand or buy it? Read that anything more than the debonair is just wasted but do you think its worth it? Been thinking about the inline.
    Put your phone down and get riding.

  72. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by darrenspink View Post
    Interesting that you choose that shock, did you just have it to hand or buy it? Read that anything more than the debonair is just wasted but do you think its worth it? Been thinking about the inline.
    +1 I would also like to know your/others thoughts when choosing the CCDBACS or just the inline for that matter.

    I would like to know if you guys tested the debonair before the switch or if you made the choice because friends/others told you they are better etc?

    I have no intention to rabble about people making upgrades like that, I do stuff like that myself, I'm just very interested in what made people do the switch.
    The reason behind my wonder is because to me the stock debonair is darn good. Like really good. I've never tried a suspension setup that worked that well (for my preference) and I know that pretty much every single person that have tried my bike, and thats quite alot reacently, have been very impressed with the suspension.

  73. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dnn View Post
    +1 I would also like to know your/others thoughts when choosing the CCDBACS or just the inline for that matter.

    I would like to know if you guys tested the debonair before the switch or if you made the choice because friends/others told you they are better etc?

    I have no intention to rabble about people making upgrades like that, I do stuff like that myself, I'm just very interested in what made people do the switch.
    The reason behind my wonder is because to me the stock debonair is darn good. Like really good. I've never tried a suspension setup that worked that well (for my preference) and I know that pretty much every single person that have tried my bike, and thats quite a lot recently, have been very impressed with the suspension.
    I had my DB Air from a previous bike that absolutely needed it (Yeti SB 95) so I slapped the thing on. I didn't really ride my bike with the Debon Air on it, and I figured I knew enough about the bike and how suspensions should feel to really get it dialed quickly.

    Cane Creek even warns you that your suspension future will be a "Journey" and be willing to fiddle. The biggest thing with the Cane Creeks is that, somewhere in twisting the dials and fiddling with air cans, there is the absolutely perfect tune. When you find that tune, it's the greatest thing ever, and I wouldn't want to be on anything else. But, you do have to play around.

    Before I bought the scout I talked to Kevin (one of the transition owners) when they were prototyping it right before it went to production and he said that they were seriously looking at sticking the Cane Creek line on the bikes, but didn't because they really wanted to simplify things for riders who wouldn't know where to even begin with the shocks. That being said, he was pretty stoked that someone would put a Cane Creek on the platform and said it would be really sweet.

    If I didn't have the Cane Creek I honestly doubt I would have put the Double Barrel on, maybe the inline, but the Double Barrel is a big old rowdy shock that does have some heft to it. That being said, I an very glad I have one.

    The biggest factor in if you should get a cane creek is if you have ever said "I wish my suspension had" or "I wish I could get more" and you're willing to find it. You can easily ruin a bike by sticking a cane creek on it, but you can also make the bike simply amazing.

  74. #174
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    Another Scout

    This is the build for my large Scout:

    Roval Fattie SL wheels
    2.4 Goma front tire
    2.35 Nobby Nick rear tire
    Formula The One brakes
    TRP 2 piece rotors
    140mm 2016 Fox 36 with Fit4 damper
    Answer Protaper 750 SL bars
    40mm Renthal Apex stem
    175mm XX1 crank with 30t SRAM X-Sync chainring
    Crank Brothers Eggbeater 3 Pedals
    10-42 XO1 cassette
    Sram PC 1170 HollowPin 11 Spd chain
    XO1 shifter
    XO1 rear derailleur
    KS Lev Integra seatpost with 125mm drop
    Specialized Henge saddle

    Build weight: 27.88 lbs

    I'm 5'11", 175 lbs
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Scout Build Thread-scout-5.jpg  


  75. #175
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    ^ nice looking build Torque Wrench

    I seem to have developed some play in the sram hubs, anyone else run into that. I haven't looked into it too much, it's just about to the point where it's annoying me enough to do something about it.

    I'm also wondering if anyone has gone with any kind of angled headset on a Scout? I don't necessarily want it any lower but slacker would be fun. Maybe I should try some offset shock bushings.

  76. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfinn View Post
    ^ nice looking build Torque Wrench

    I seem to have developed some play in the sram hubs, anyone else run into that. I haven't looked into it too much, it's just about to the point where it's annoying me enough to do something about it.

    I'm also wondering if anyone has gone with any kind of angled headset on a Scout? I don't necessarily want it any lower but slacker would be fun. Maybe I should try some offset shock bushings.
    Slack out your pike to 150mm. It's cheeper than a headset and you've already got the length on your fork (probably).

  77. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfinn View Post
    ^ nice looking build Torque Wrench

    I seem to have developed some play in the sram hubs, anyone else run into that. I haven't looked into it too much, it's just about to the point where it's annoying me enough to do something about it.

    I'm also wondering if anyone has gone with any kind of angled headset on a Scout? I don't necessarily want it any lower but slacker would be fun. Maybe I should try some offset shock bushings.
    I already blew up and had warrantied my rear SRAM hub (Scout 2 build).

  78. #178
    Dnn
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    DServy,
    Thx for the explanation. A shame you didn't really try it with the debonair, but I can understand your reasoning when you already had the cane creek and you knew exactly what you wanted.
    I had a SC 5010 before the Scout, so I know exactly how much a rear shock can make or break a bike (in case of the 5010 with a fox it was a break :/ )

    Just to make a clear statement: The stock debonair is very good, and I apreciate the insight into other good options out there.

  79. #179
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    Just got mine built up last night, no ride time yet, but soon!
    Highlights:
    Ibis 741 laced to I9 Torch
    DVO Diamond at 140mm
    Zee brakes

  80. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dnn View Post
    DServy,
    Thx for the explanation. A shame you didn't really try it with the debonair, but I can understand your reasoning when you already had the cane creek and you knew exactly what you wanted.
    I had a SC 5010 before the Scout, so I know exactly how much a rear shock can make or break a bike (in case of the 5010 with a fox it was a break :/ )

    Just to make a clear statement: The stock debonair is very good, and I apreciate the insight into other good options out there.
    Honestly, the debonair is fantastic. I'm debating if selling my cane creek might be worth it. . .

  81. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by rippling over canyons View Post
    I already blew up and had warrantied my rear SRAM hub (Scout 2 build).
    Awesome, that's what I was hoping to hear. Planning to replace them with i9s but was hoping I could put that off for a little bit.

  82. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobman7 View Post
    Just got mine built up last night, no ride time yet, but soon!
    Highlights:
    Ibis 741 laced to I9 Torch
    DVO Diamond at 140mm
    Zee brakes
    Almost done building mine up... Went with a 2015 lowered 36 Float, How do you like the DVO? I was interested in trying it.... Is it easy to lower?
    [B]Chillin...Riding I hopeB]

  83. #183
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    The more I ride my Scout the more I realize how low the bottom bracket is.......pedal strike galore!

  84. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    The more I ride my Scout the more I realize how low the bottom bracket is.......pedal strike galore!
    How long are your cranks?

    I ask because my GF had this problem on her 575 (it likes a lot of sag, so sits pretty low). 5mm shorter cranks sorted it

  85. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnarly View Post
    How long are your cranks?

    I ask because my GF had this problem on her 575 (it likes a lot of sag, so sits pretty low). 5mm shorter cranks sorted it




    175mm. I thought about running a set of 170mm but have no idea how that will effect the bike. Every crank I have owned has been 175mm. Would adjusting the seat offset the 5mm of difference? Would it pedal differently?

  86. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    175mm. I thought about running a set of 170mm but have no idea how that will effect the bike. Every crank I have owned has been 175mm. Would adjusting the seat offset the 5mm of difference? Would it pedal differently?
    She went to 170mm and noticed no difference except she was clipping fewer rocks. YMMV.

    I've also spent most of my time on 175s. I've got 165s on the DH bike, and on the rare occasion it gets pulled out of the cellar I don't find myself saying "man, these cranks feel short!" - but the bikes are so different it's a bit of an apples to uranium comparison.

  87. #187
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    Just finished building mine up!!!

    Probably will fit a dropper someday in the next month or so. Also got the cyan fork stickers as well so everything should match up good!!!

    Weight is 29lbs on the dot!

    Scout Build Thread-scout_037.jpgScout Build Thread-scout_030.jpgScout Build Thread-scout_031.jpg

    Scout Build Thread-scout_006.jpgScout Build Thread-scout_014.jpgScout Build Thread-scout_018.jpg
    [B]Chillin...Riding I hopeB]

  88. #188
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    ^ yeah man!! Looks really good. Big fan of blue and orange on a bike and that seat is amazing. what chain is that btw?

  89. #189
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    Very nice.
    How do you like the RC2 36? I have a 36 with the Fit4 damper on my Scout and think it's a little harsh.

  90. #190
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    Scout Build Thread-image.jpgScout Build Thread-image.jpg

    First ride yesterday .

    Blimey this things lively, in sapping heat and just feeling my way I managed PBS on 20+ sections over half on my local trails.

    I get the comments on pedal strikes though, coming from a much higher bb on my 29er enduro I had many hard strikes and lost a third of my pedal pins.

    The shop set up round 35% sag in open! after the ride it's nearer 40% so trying for around 32% and see how I get on.

    Awesome bike though.

    Going to stick the front nobly nic on to the back and try a hams damf on the front.

  91. #191
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    Thanks! The chain is a kmc vivid chain... kinda hard to find.
    [B]Chillin...Riding I hopeB]

  92. #192
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    The fork is a 2015 float and I like it, very plush but I prefer to have h/l speed compression. It is more plush then my 2011 rc2 36 talas 5.
    [B]Chillin...Riding I hopeB]

  93. #193
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    Crazbiker4, Have you lowered your 36 float at all?

    I've got a 2016 set on order (H/L speed, not FiT 4) and was going to run it at 150mm on my new Scout build.

  94. #194
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    Yes I did lower it, my 36 is a 2015 Float 160 RC2 set to 140mm which is what the recommended travel is for the Scout.

    Its pretty easy to do, just have to add 2 travel spacers. Also you will need to drop the oil out of the fork so you will need a bottle of 20wt gold.

    Float 36 Mountain Bike Suspension Fork Travel Spacers (100163002)
    [B]Chillin...Riding I hopeB]

  95. #195
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    Sounds good. Have you tried it at 150mm?

    I test rode a Scout with 150mm Pikes and it rode great so I was thinking of trying it like that first then 140mm after. I think the 150mm 36 works out slightly shorter that a 150mm Pike, about 3mm less A2C and about 4mm longer than the 140mm Pike that it comes with. My numbers are all from Google though!

    Love your build, can't wait to finish mine.

  96. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by noahhowes View Post
    Sounds good. Have you tried it at 150mm?

    I test rode a Scout with 150mm Pikes and it rode great so I was thinking of trying it like that first then 140mm after. I think the 150mm 36 works out slightly shorter that a 150mm Pike, about 3mm less A2C and about 4mm longer than the 140mm Pike that it comes with. My numbers are all from Google though!

    Love your build, can't wait to finish mine.
    Thanks For the positive feedback!!!

    No I have not tried 150mm because opening the fork is not hard but you waste oil and slick honey each time you do so I just left it at 140mm

    Looking at the specs:

    Fox 36 160mm 27.5 is 549.1mm A to C and the Pike 27.5 160 is 552 A to C.

    So if you were to lower the 36 to 150 then it would be 539.1 where as the Pike 140mm is 532. So that would be 7.1mm of A to C difference.

    Im sure it will be fine and possibly help rise the BB a little to keep the pedals from striking so much. I wish they has 5mm spacers cause I would be tempted to go to 145mm then there would only be a 2.1mm difference.

    I do have a spare 2015 talas 5 cart I was thinking about putting in my float so I could have a travel adjustment on the fly, but the float is so plush!
    [B]Chillin...Riding I hopeB]

  97. #197
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    Thanks for the numbers, really helpful.

    I'll get a pick of mine up once my forks arrive.

  98. #198
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    Here's mine, just finished it.
    No time to put it really to a test, certainly is longer then my 2013 bandit L, I might go with a 35 stem instead of my 50mm

    But compared to my bandit you already feel the difference with the slacker HA, can't wait to point it downhill

    Scout Build Thread-20150703_075705.jpgScout Build Thread-20150703_075734.jpgScout Build Thread-20150703_075806.jpgScout Build Thread-20150703_075752.jpg

  99. #199
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    Awesome thread. Im salivated at the prospect of getting a Scout. Think I'll be getting a 2016 Scout 1.

    Ive only got one niggle, and thats wondering what it rides like compared to a 120mm bike.

    I currently have a Ti On One 456 which I can run in 120mm or 140mm and I nearly always keep it in 120mm, it just feels so alive at 120, even shredding it hard. The only time I ever open up the talas to 140mm is if my DH bike is out of action and I take the hardtail on an uplift.


    Ive been interested in short travel bikes that can attack for a while now, so when I saw the Scout, I knew it was for me. But a little part of me wonders if the 140mm fork will be slightly over my tastes?


    Having said that, I achnowlege its a totally different animal and so direct comparisions are hard to draw.

    Any doubts I have get put to bed when I try to find an alternative to the Scout, and there just isnt one. No 120mm bikes have enough attitude.

  100. #200
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    Scout Build Thread-img_0032.jpg

    Been riding this for a couple of weeks now. It's a great bike, long and fast with loads of grip. I understeered a bit for the first few rides as it's a lot longer than my 5-spot was, but once you get used to it the position seems very nicely balanced.

    Large Scout frame
    Fox Float X Pushed with a corset can
    Fox 36 Float RC2 at 150mm
    Hope pro 2 EVO on Easton ARC 30 rims
    Hope X2 race brakes
    XT drive
    Renthal bar and stem
    Stealth Reverb

    The forks raise the front by about 7mm as predicted above. I've got some slackening bushes in there at the min too just because I had some. They lower the BB back down a little, I'm not convinced they're needed though. The Float with the corset is a lovely shock as are the new 36s. Both ends feel close enough to coil that I no longer really care!

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