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Thread: Creaky Scout

  1. #1
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    Creaky Scout

    So it started when the left crank arm was in 11:00 position "click".

    So now, after about 15-20 rides I hear start to tick, click, creak, whatever from both 11:00 position for left crank and 1:00 position with right crank.

    I'm thinking factory mal-instillation of bb or rear sus bearings (defective?).

    Anyone else suffer this?
    Last edited by tungsten; 09-18-2015 at 12:04 AM.

  2. #2
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    My Scout developed a creak a couple of months ago but it has been steadily getting worse. I'm going to service all the pivots soon to see if I can silence it, but I suspect it is the main pivot that is the culprit.

  3. #3
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    Creaky scout here too, main pivot. At first I could loosen the small bolt then re-tighten and it got rid but it comes back after a time. Creaks when im pedalling up hill or putting a good amount of force into a pedal on flat.

    It comes and goes though, at the moment its fine.

    How do I go about 'servicing' the pivot? When the small bolt/screws out how do I remove the taper nut?
    Put your phone down and get riding.

  4. #4
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    I just went out and flipped the shock lever to "rigid" and rode uphill. Still ticked..........always from left pedal stroke comes and goes from right side torque.

  5. #5
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    Just pulled apart the main pivot on mine. Very gunked up from a few wet rides in our Aussie winter. The two 6903 bearings aren't perfectly smooth, but will do for awhile (seeing I want to ride and don't have spares handy). I've cleaned the threads and all the mating surfaces and will go for a spin and see if it quietens it down

  6. #6
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    You need a press to get those out? Pics?

  7. #7
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    I think you could knock them out with a mallet and drift or long screwdriver. Cleaning the threaded parts and tapers quietened it somewhat but it is still not silent. Will price up the bearings versus getting the bearing kit from either Transition or Enduro and then do a replacement of the lot.

  8. #8
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    We have experienced this on a few bikes, usually just the black collet taper plugs creaking inside the main pivot. Remove the small 4mm and the black hardware, check that the main blue pivot is snug but not super tight (or use a torque wrench if you have one)

    Stick a dab of grease on the black wedges and under the head of the bolt then re-assemble and snug tight.

    This should sort it, if not then might be worth looking under the main linkage pivot bearings as excess paint was cracking up a bit on my Smuggler.

  9. #9
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    Sounds hollow, like it's reverberating in a tube.

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    It has a big ol' down tube to travel up

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by pedalsbikecare View Post
    We have experienced this on a few bikes, usually just the black collet taper plugs creaking inside the main pivot. Remove the small 4mm and the black hardware, check that the main blue pivot is snug but not super tight (or use a torque wrench if you have one)

    Stick a dab of grease on the black wedges and under the head of the bolt then re-assemble and snug tight.
    After unscrewing the 4mm screw/bolt how do you remove (what do you use) to remove the black plug?

    Thanks
    Put your phone down and get riding.

  12. #12
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    The threaded end on the drive side will just fall out once you unscrew the 4mm, then just wiggle the bolt a bit in the drive side one to unseat, if it doesn't want to come then find something to put through from the drive side and give it a little tap. It won't be tight.

  13. #13
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    Thanks mate.
    Put your phone down and get riding.

  14. #14
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    My patrol was making a ton of noise after about 4 rides. Cleaned and lubed the main pivot axle and cones. It's silent again, I just wonder how often I'll have to address the issue

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by pedalsbikecare View Post
    The threaded end on the drive side will just fall out once you unscrew the 4mm, then just wiggle the bolt a bit in the drive side one to unseat, if it doesn't want to come then find something to put through from the drive side and give it a little tap. It won't be tight.
    Post pics of procedure.

  16. #16
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    I'm having excactly the same symptoms as OP.

    Undid the main pivot bolt and got out the taper nuts (wedges), but cant get the main pivot itself out. I've tried knocking on it from the drive side but it doesn't seem to budge. Is there a trick to get it out, or could the axle be corroded to the inner race of the bearings? A little afraid of just brute forcing it...

  17. #17
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    Just to clarify, you did unthread the 8mm main pivot? After that I used light tapping to pop it out for cleaning. It is possible that dirt and it corrosion is making yours bind

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
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    Well, undid the 5 mm bolt (#26 in exploded view) and the wedge each side.

    Maybe i could try to get some wd40 or similar in there to loosen up

  19. #19
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    The pivot axle has a hex behind the expanding cone. You have to unthread the axle before it will come out

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
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  20. #20
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    Yup, it unscrews. I tried tapping mine initially, but saw the hex after a closer look.

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    How come I didn't see that...?

    Good thing I didn't keep knocking...

    Thanks!

  22. #22
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    So in this exploded view "they're" suggesting a dab of grease on 19/20?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by tungsten View Post
    So in this exploded view "they're" suggesting a dab of grease on 19/20?
    You got it.

  24. #24
    ptd
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    So is the procedure using the exploded view:
    1. remove 28 (or anything for the front derailleur)
    2. unscrew and remove 21
    3. wiggle out 19 and 20 to release expanding bits (9) pressure
    4. remove 9 by sliding/tapping out
    5. grease bits 19 and 20
    6. reverse to reassemble

  25. #25
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    Yeah that's it, it is very easy to do.

  26. #26
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    Ok pulled it apart weren't that gritty just a little crud cleaned and greased but if we're only greasing 19/20 why take out #9 if we're only greasing the other bits but I did anyways and greased it too.
    Last edited by tungsten; 10-05-2015 at 07:03 PM.

  27. #27
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    Ordered a bearing kit for mine so will redo all of that at the same time. Hopefully it quietens it down - my mates are giving me hell about it on group rides.

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    You had to replace bearings on a bike that's like a year old? How many kms?

    Oh, yeah. The procedure fixed the issue. Thanks.....all.
    Last edited by tungsten; 10-09-2015 at 02:22 PM.

  29. #29
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    Finally got out the main pivot axle yesterday. Bearings are completely shot, took delivery on this thing late march... I didn't have bearings on hand, so I just greased up all the pivot parts and it seems to be silent for now. Bearings in rocker arm link seemed ok.

  30. #30
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    I've only done about 1000kms on it. Only one of the two bearings in the main pivot was notchy/rough when I checked it to try and stop the creak. They're probably all fine but the creak is driving me nuts, and is a bit embarassing on group rides.

    To be fair, living in Australia I don't have much experience with looking after a bike after muddy rides so I might have cleaned it wrong and wrecked something.

  31. #31
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    For what it's worth. My Scout was creaking bad after the first few rides.

    I narrowed it down to the bottom shock mount not being 100% flush against the shock eyelet. Tried greasing the surfaces and it lasted about half a ride before the creak came back.

    Fixed it by cutting small plastic shims from the backing of adhesive velcro. Slide the shims between the frame and the bottom shock eyelet when installing the bolt. Tighten to normal torque.

    The plastic shim gives the eyelet a bit of a buffer against the frame instead of metal on metal. Silent ever since.

    Good luck

  32. #32
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    I had about 200 miles on mine when the creaking started. About 15 rides. I did wash it a lot and in retrospect the bearing area can hold water. When I took it apart to grease the pivot the bearings felt notchy. I went ahead and replaced them with enduro max bearings. Funny thing is my that after I pulled the bearings out that felt okay. Anyway new bearings were cheap and I have over 200 miles on the new ones and still no noise. I am careful to dry the pivot after washing now.

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    I have noises too, first it was the same sympton as edimm said, but greasing it doesn't seem to work anymore, i'll try to fit some plastic shims.

    Btw how do you notice that bearing are dead? i mean does it feels rough or just noisy? are you testing without load and without rear wheel?

  34. #34
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    took my main pivot apart today, my bearings are definitely pretty notched as well.

    only have a touch over 250 miles on it.
    Last edited by shapethings; 01-10-2016 at 07:37 PM.

  35. #35
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    Ok guys I'm looking for advice on getting the main pivot out (#9). How hard did you all have to hammer that out? After moving 19 and 20 I'm still unable to free the pivot axle. I'm using a socket that covers almost the entire rim of the axle while using a hammer to hit the socket.

    Any thoughts on how hard I should go? It seems like the axle shouldnt be this seized.

    -Jason

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildchubby View Post
    Ok guys I'm looking for advice on getting the main pivot out (#9). How hard did you all have to hammer that out? After moving 19 and 20 I'm still unable to free the pivot axle. I'm using a socket that covers almost the entire rim of the axle while using a hammer to hit the socket.

    Any thoughts on how hard I should go? It seems like the axle shouldnt be this seized.

    -Jason
    STOP KNOCKING!
    It screws out using a 10 (?) mm hex

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