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Thread: Bandit 27.5

  1. #151
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    For an aluminum trail bike with 140mm travel, 28-29 pounds is pretty good. Again, you would have to go to 1x up to drop one pound there. Here's what I have for weights for that build...

    frame bandit 3137
    shock float ctd 220
    fork sweep 1858
    headset cane creek 40 109
    crankset slx 1x10 642
    bb slx 88
    derailleur xt 260
    shifter slx 133
    cable generic 65
    cassette slx 372
    chain kmc 268
    wheels haven 1720
    front tire geax saguaro 740
    rear tire geax saguaro 740
    tubes generic 400
    brakes deore 910
    bars raceface ride 337
    stem raceface ride 146
    grips odi ruffian 115
    saddle selle slr flow 253
    seatpost raceface ride 290
    small parts misc 75
    total (kg) 12.9
    total (lbs) 28.3

  2. #152
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    Ok ... just pressed the order button. After I swap out the bars for SLK carbon wraps (dropping about 200g), going tubeless, Installing some New SLX brakes I have laying around, And switching the 740g Geax Saguaro for some Ardent Race 3c's ... that should keep some of the weight down. I would have liked to have gotten some Racing Ralphs .... but mabey next time.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Bandit 27.5-stuff.jpg  


  3. #153
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    Nice! You should come in at around 27lbs. Amazing deal for that bike!

  4. #154
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    That's what I thought.... For a mostly XT with some SLX group thrown in.... U can't go wrong.

    I'm just wondering coming off of the VPP design of the Intense if a single pivot is going to feel like a step back in Mt Bike time and history.

  5. #155
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    I'm still loving my '14 Bandit and it absolutely rips on the trail. Only my skill level keeps me from pushing the bike harder.

  6. #156
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    I've read a good bit of mediocre and negative reviews about the Easton Haven wheel's rear hub. Any tried the upgrade? Is it still being offered by Easton?

    Easton Offering Free Hub Upgrade Kits (BOOSH!) - Mountain Bikes Press Releases - Vital MTB

  7. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrm1 View Post
    I'm just wondering coming off of the VPP design of the Intense if a single pivot is going to feel like a step back in Mt Bike time and history.
    Take comfort in the fact that a new 27lb VPP bike (Spider, 5010) would probably run $5K-$6K.

  8. #158
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    I believe mine were sent wth the upgraded bearings already installed. That first video shows how to determine if they have been upgraded or not.
    Last edited by ogle.benjamin; 07-03-2016 at 12:51 PM.

  9. #159
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    I'm thinking of buying another one.... Then building it up and selling it and my 29er ht on Craigslist. Between the 2 I could probably more than pay for the 1st Bandit.

  10. #160
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    For anyone who purchased or knows this bike from Price Point as a bike build kit...

    Will the bike kit include little things like :
    • Fork star nut for the stem top bolt? installed?
    • Will the steer of the fork be cut?
    • Fork crown race?
    • Will there be fork/stem spacers?
    • Etc


    From the site.... "All necessary components are included"..." You are purchasing a fully unassembled bike build kit. Please be informed that every item will come individually packaged with nothing installed on the frame."

    I get I'll have to build it..... Just wondering what I'll have to scrounge up and /or go after from an lbs.
    Probably the only thing I don't have is a star nut and for sure won't have the over size fork crown race washer.

  11. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrm1 View Post
    For anyone who purchased or knows this bike from Price Point as a bike build kit...

    Will the bike kit include little things like :
    • Fork star nut for the stem top bolt? installed?
    • Will the steer of the fork be cut?
    • Fork crown race?
    • Will there be fork/stem spacers?
    • Etc


    From the site.... "All necessary components are included"..." You are purchasing a fully unassembled bike build kit. Please be informed that every item will come individually packaged with nothing installed on the frame."

    I get I'll have to build it..... Just wondering what I'll have to scrounge up and /or go after from an lbs.
    Probably the only thing I don't have is a star nut and for sure won't have the over size fork crown race washer.
    Mine was one of thir pro build configurations, so I cant really speak to most what you are asking (I kinda wish mine came unassembled; building it is half the fun!). But mine came with a star nut included with the sweep documentation. So I would assume you should receive a star nut with your build. Not too sure about the crown race though.

  12. #162
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    Check my stash earlier today.... I have everything BUT a crown race for the over size fork steer... But if memory serves me those are part of the head set.

  13. #163
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    On the build kits nothing is installed but everything is included to build the bike and ride it except pedals. Everything is in OEM or retail packaging as if you bought all the parts separately on your own. I really enjoyed building mine up and didn't run into any problems.

  14. #164
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    I just bought a bunch of Anodized Blue Bling for the Red bike ... Might be Ewww ... Might look Cool. Not sure.

    - Blue stem spacers 50mm stack
    - Blue Crank Bolts
    - Blue Seatpost clamp
    - Blue Rear DR pulleys
    - Blue Cable C-Clips ... not really sure if the standard C-Clips will work Because it looks like the frame routes the cables down in pairs.
    - Blue Disk Bolts

    Should be pretty interesting. It will either look Good ... or Ghetto

  15. #165
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    Only a couple of cable attachment points use standard C-clips (the frame comes with 2 IIRC), most of them are paired and require zip ties (or possibly another type of clip I'm not familiar with and is not provided).

  16. #166
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    I'm still on the Bandit 27.5 too. Loving it!

  17. #167
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    Kit arrived today. Wondering ... do I need a Brake Post adapter on the X-fusion Sweep to run a 180mm disc? the kit shipped with the 180mm disc but no front for adapter. I am guessing I need that? (I have one on hand if I need it, but will need to have it replaced)

  18. #168
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    Will finish it up tomorrow. Routing Cables and Brakes and done. Debating about NOT installing the Front DR and Shifter. If I do not install the Frt DR it would be a 1x10 with a 11-36 ... what do I need (if anything) in place of the Frt Dr? Suggestions? Something like this ...? Or unnecessary?

    1pc CNC Fouriers Downhill Chain Guide Bash Guards Device 1 System ISCG ISCG05 | eBay

  19. #169
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    I use a narrow-wide chainring from Absolute Black with no chain guide and it works just fine for me.

  20. #170
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    PP Bandit Build

    Arrived Yesterday. Finished up the build today. Headed to "The Santos" in the morning. Here is how it worked out ...

    - PP sent a carbon Seatpost/Selle Italia Monolink Saddle Combo/Group
    - Did get the Upgraded Havens !!
    - I did not need a 180mm disc adapter in the front on the sweep
    - Could not use my SLX brakes ... hoses too short coming off the 29er Odd
    - Used FSA SL-K carbon bars and 80mm Gravity Stem
    - Alligator Rotors instead of the Shimano ones
    - Maxxis Ardent Race 2.2 instead of the shipped Geax Saguaro Wire Bead 2.0
    - Set up Tubeless
    - Forgot to weight the shift housing ... but Fully assembled as a 2-10 and M520 clipless pedals ...

    Total Weight = 27.84

    A little concerned as I could not get the cockpit to stretch out as much as my other bikes. The frame definitely runs smallish. I came up about 3/4 of an inch short even with the seat slammed all the way back. But ... I did feel my 29er was too big (because it was).

    Also could not get the sag in the Fox Float CTD to hit 15% until I put 210 lbs of air in it. I started with 150 (I weigh 175) and it really squatted. But I mess around with that tomorrow at the trail.

    So I'll see tomorrow how it goes. Should be good though as I really like a more flick-able bike.

    Thanks for the Feed Back
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Bandit 27.5-26.jpg  

    Bandit 27.5-28.jpg  

    Bandit 27.5-32.jpg  


  21. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrm1 View Post
    Arrived Yesterday. Finished up the build today. Headed to "The Santos" in the morning. Here is how it worked out ...

    - PP sent a carbon Seatpost/Selle Italia Monolink Saddle Combo/Group
    - Did get the Upgraded Havens !!
    - I did not need a 180mm disc adapter in the front on the sweep
    - Could not use my SLX brakes ... hoses too short coming off the 29er Odd
    - Used FSA SL-K carbon bars and 80mm Gravity Stem
    - Alligator Rotors instead of the Shimano ones
    - Maxxis Ardent Race 2.2 instead of the shipped Geax Saguaro Wire Bead 2.0
    - Set up Tubeless
    - Forgot to weight the shift housing ... but Fully assembled as a 2-10 and M520 clipless pedals ...

    Total Weight = 27.84

    A little concerned as I could not get the cockpit to stretch out as much as my other bikes. The frame definitely runs smallish. I came up about 3/4 of an inch short even with the seat slammed all the way back. But ... I did feel my 29er was too big (because it was).

    Also could not get the sag in the Fox Float CTD to hit 15% until I put 210 lbs of air in it. I started with 150 (I weigh 175) and it really squatted. But I mess around with that tomorrow at the trail.

    So I'll see tomorrow how it goes. Should be good though as I really like a more flick-able bike.

    Thanks for the Feed Back
    Looking good.

  22. #172
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    As far as setting sag on the shock, I've found that if I put my geared up weight in psi that gets me in the 25-20% range.

  23. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcf811 View Post
    As far as setting sag on the shock, I've found that if I put my geared up weight in psi that gets me in the 25-20% range.
    Yeah I am taking about 230 psi to get it to sag at about 15% (I am running it firm to combat single pivot "bobb"). Just surprised me at my 175lbs self (but that is not geared up - probably more like 185 with gear) ... but it has surprised me it is taking that much air.

    How often does anyone have to add air to the CTD?

  24. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcf811 View Post
    As far as setting sag on the shock, I've found that if I put my geared up weight in psi that gets me in the 25-20% range.
    Same here, and it holds air really well.

  25. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrm1 View Post
    Total Weight = 27.84
    Impressive!

  26. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrm1 View Post
    Yeah I am taking about 230 psi to get it to sag at about 15% (I am running it firm to combat single pivot "bobb"). Just surprised me at my 175lbs self (but that is not geared up - probably more like 185 with gear) ... but it has surprised me it is taking that much air.

    How often does anyone have to add air to the CTD?
    If you like it firm I would suggest to try running 20-25% but leave it in trail 2/3, or even climb.

  27. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcf811 View Post
    If you like it firm I would suggest to try running 20-25% but leave it in trail 2/3, or even climb.
    +1. I keep coming back to Trail-2 for my riding. Plenty of comfort to remain seated when pedaling over rough stuff but the bike also feels really responsive when standing.

  28. #178
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    Inaugural Ride

    Thanks for the Feed back all. It is indeed a fun poppy bike. I really like how easily the front wheel comes off the ground. It was everything I was looking for in a bike. I found myself thrashing runs I had been avoiding for the past several years since I switched to a 29er. So ... Mt Biking is fun again !! (Yeah I got my 29er lovers flame suit on )

    A couple of questions. Help me understand ...

    I have read a lot about the "slack geometry" of the frame being made even more so by the addition of the 160mm fork. I noticed from the moment I threw my leg over the bike that (especially at low speeds) the front wheel was kinda "floppy" (I dont know how else to describe it). It would track a straight line, but as you turned the bars/wheel would almost flop or really turn quickly in the direction of the turn. Kinda reminded me of a skateboard with loose trucks. I always tended to over stiffen/tighten my trucks for ramp riding. I am guessing this is due to the slack head tube - and this is the part that everyone seems to like about slack head tubes?? ... made more slack by the 160mm fork, etc. Not that it was bad ... but just did not expect it. Nearly grabbed me going down a steep tech section littered with rocks and roots. Wheel found a rock and just turned off quickly to the left without warning once the bike leaned that way.

    Could I change this by:
    1. using the 60mm stem instead of the 80mm I put on it?
    2. dropping the fork travel to 140 or even 120mm? I know this would be trade offs, but...

    Anyway ... fun fun bike. Did notice pedal bob and decreased pedal efficiency in the single pivot from my VPP 26 ... but I know everything is a trade off. Overall I like the bike and the very plush feel. Had a good Inaugural Day at the trail.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Bandit 27.5-mtbr1.jpg  

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    Bandit 27.5-mtbr6.jpg  

    Bandit 27.5-mtbr8.jpg  


  29. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcf811 View Post
    If you like it firm I would suggest to try running 20-25% but leave it in trail 2/3, or even climb.
    Set it up with about 230 psi and 15-20% sag and ran it at Trail 3. Nice and plush. Never bottomed out. Pretty decent platform and pedal efficiency hammering and up out of the saddle. Riding all day saw me use most if not all the travel, so I think it is about right. Still just surprised it took 230 psi.

  30. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrm1 View Post
    I have read a lot about the "slack geometry" of the frame being made even more so by the addition of the 160mm fork. I noticed from the moment I threw my leg over the bike that (especially at low speeds) the front wheel was kinda "floppy" (I dont know how else to describe it). It would track a straight line, but as you turned the bars/wheel would almost flop or really turn quickly in the direction of the turn.

    ...

    Could I change this by:
    1. using the 60mm stem instead of the 80mm I put on it?
    2. dropping the fork travel to 140 or even 120mm? I know this would be trade offs, but...
    Sounds like a good first outing!

    The 68 head angle @ 140mm really isn't very slack for a 27.5 bike (comparing to a 29er, a 27.5 bike needs lower head angle for the same feel). Even with the extra A-C of the fork at 160mm it comes out about 67, pretty standard these days.

    That said, I found a similar feeling when I first got my Bandit and took it out with the stock 70mm stem and 710mm bar. Changing to a 50mm stem and 750mm bar was a big improvement in control. If your bar is already as wide as you want to go maybe just trying a shorter stem would be worthwhile.

    I also recently lowered my Sweep to 140mm (I would not go lower than this). This did make a difference on technical switchback climbs but it's not night and day - the bar/stem swap was a much bigger factor.

  31. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by david.p View Post
    ... I found a similar feeling when I first got my Bandit and took it out with the stock 70mm stem and 710mm bar. Changing to a 50mm stem and 750mm bar was a big improvement in control. If your bar is already as wide as you want to go maybe just trying a shorter stem would be worthwhile.
    Bars are as wide as I can handle .... but I do have a 60mm that was going on the "For Sale" Specy SJ Marathon ... I can easily give it a try and decide which stem "wins".

    Quote Originally Posted by david.p View Post
    I also recently lowered my Sweep to 140mm (I would not go lower than this). This did make a difference on technical switchback climbs but it's not night and day - the bar/stem swap was a much bigger factor.
    Your Seein' what I'm saying. Thanks for the feed back. I think I'm on the right track then. Get this bike dialed in and it is going to be a blast !!


    BTW ... did you do the Sweep adjustment yourself? I watched the X-Fusion video and I think it took all of 7 minutes ... BUT ... he had a press for the pin AND a threaded punch looking tool to separated the legs from the lowers. Did you have special tools or just regular hand tools. Any suggestions?

  32. #182
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    X-fusion now has an inexpensive damper removal tool they sell to customers (you can call them to order it). I'll probably get one at some point but I just followed the instructions in this thread to get the fork apart: official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread

    Moving the pin took the most time. I ended up using a vice and various spacer materials as the press, and a couple of chain link pins as well as the head and shank of a roofing nail (ground the point off) to push the pin. I got the idea from this thread: X Fusion Velvet, Internal Travel Adjust

  33. #183
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    Wondering ... I am thinking of Modifying the Shimano M785 XT 2x Crankset to a 1x. I think the Bolt patter is 104 BCD. What would you recommend for a chain ring in the front on a 10x cassette that is 11-36?

  35. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrm1 View Post
    Wondering ... I am thinking of Modifying the Shimano M785 XT 2x Crankset to a 1x. I think the Bolt patter is 104 BCD. What would you recommend for a chain ring in the front on a 10x cassette that is 11-36?
    The pattern is 104 BCD. I think a lot has to do with the terrain you typically ride. You may want a 30t ring for hillier areas while a 32t or 34t ring may are better for flatter trails. Consider your fitness level as well. Ive been using a 30t RaceFace NW in my bandit for a few months now and it has been working for me. Haven't dropped a chain yet!

  36. #186
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    Im fat and lazy and climb about 1000' an hour. I like a 30t with a 40t saucer add on cog.


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    Ready to ride, ready to ride until the last of them falls

  37. #187
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    Flat Florida Here

  38. #188
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    Just see what gears you don't need and go from there. Example, if you can ride without using the 2 lowest gears (36T cog and 32T cog), then go with a 32T 104BCD up front. If you need the stay out of the lowest gear (36) but not the second lowest (32), go with 28T 64BCD. Mine is 28T. It looks a little odd having nothing mounted to the outer spider, but whatever. On paved roads I sometimes miss the larger gears but never on the trails.

  39. #189
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    But 104 is the outer spider OR the inner one?

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    104 is the outer. The smallest ring that fits 104 BCD is 30T. If you go with a 28T ring it needs to go on the inner ring, 64BCD.

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  42. #192
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    On Price Point which bike is better? The red is 1600 and the blue is 1700. The blue has the Sweep forks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick_PNW View Post
    On Price Point which bike is better? The red is 1600 and the blue is 1700. The blue has the Sweep forks.
    Blue; Id be worried about getting replacement parts for the Marzocchi. Im not too sure what Fox is going to do with the brand long term. The sweep is a pretty solid fork and it gives you the ability to swap in the Roughcut HLR damper cartridge.

  44. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick_PNW View Post
    On Price Point which bike is better? The red is 1600 and the blue is 1700. The blue has the Sweep forks.
    And from what I call tell the Sweep weighs nearly a pound less

  45. #195
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    Awesome thank you! I am hoping to get one soon! They sound like they are pretty good bikes!

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    I've never had the flop with a 50mm stem and 160 Pike. I do notice a big difference when lowering travel to 130mm for steep climbs. I have felt the flop on bikes like the Pivot Mach 6 and that would drive me nuts.

  47. #197
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    FYI ... picked this little tool up for the sweep - $13 dapper removal tool - and it worked perfectly in removing the uppers. I did try a 60mm stem. It helped. But when I switched from the 160mm to the 140mm travel in the fork the bike seemed to get much more stable.

    Now if I can only get that Fox CTD BV to behave. Seems very soft in all modes. Little difference between C, T, and D. I am never bottoming out, but using all the travel in XC riding, which makes me wonder if I WOULD bottom out with a big hit. I weigh in at about 185 full loaded, and I am running 230 lbs of pressure in the shock. Considering a volume reducer

  48. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrm1 View Post
    Now if I can only get that Fox CTD BV to behave. Seems very soft in all modes. Little difference between C, T, and D. I am never bottoming out, but using all the travel in XC riding, which makes me wonder if I WOULD bottom out with a big hit. I weigh in at about 185 full loaded, and I am running 230 lbs of pressure in the shock. Considering a volume reducer
    230 psi sounds crazy. I'm about the same weight and I usually need 180-190 psi. Same observations with c/t/d but the shock is due for a rebuild. Maybe that would help, or maybe I should get a new shock altogether.

  49. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by gibsonlespaulspecial View Post
    230 psi sounds crazy. I'm about the same weight and I usually need 180-190 psi. Same observations with c/t/d but the shock is due for a rebuild. Maybe that would help, or maybe I should get a new shock altogether.
    That is what I thought.

    I just wrote Transition about the Fox ... but as to a rebuild ... mine is new and has about 7 hours on it at most.

    I ran it at 260 yesterday ... it moved less, but the C, T, D had almost NO control difference. The O-Ring still moved about the same in each position and Stomping on the pedals propelled the bike forward But ... it seemed to be wallowing equally in its travel regardless of which switch position (C, T (3), or D) that I tried. I would have thought Climb would have stiffened up the rear end and bob a good bit. Not so much here.

  50. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrm1 View Post
    That is what I thought.

    I just wrote Transition about the Fox ... but as to a rebuild ... mine is new and has about 7 hours on it at most.

    I ran it at 260 yesterday ... it moved less, but the C, T, D had almost NO control difference. The O-Ring still moved about the same in each position and Stomping on the pedals propelled the bike forward But ... it seemed to be wallowing equally in its travel regardless of which switch position (C, T (3), or D) that I tried. I would have thought Climb would have stiffened up the rear end and bob a good bit. Not so much here.
    Something is definitely wrong. I ended up sending mine to push, but even before they got it there was definitely a noticeable difference between the ctd settings. I'm 190-195 geared up and usually end up with about that much psi to achieve 25% sag.

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