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Thread: Bandit 27.5

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by gibsonlespaulspecial View Post
    Again, I think that deal is fantastic, a no brainer. I am by no means a wheelset expert, but I'd say check out the Spank Oozy Trail 295. I think they go for about $500 and they seem very light. Plus, Knolly uses them on the Endorphin so they must be awesome! BCF811, what is it about the transition wheels that you don't like? I can't find specs anywhere...
    I never rode transition wheels, I had race face wheels. They were ok, but I like 2.3/2.4 tires and the rims were a bit narrow for tire that size. Now I have Easton arc rims with hope hubs and am very happy.

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcf811 View Post
    I believe it was around 600 for both, but I had them due the factory service that also replaces the ctd with high and low speed compression adjustments which brought the price up a bit. I do notice some flex but nothing terrible.
    So for $600 you think it's worth it over getting a Marzocchi 350 CR for $315 and a Marzocchi Roco Air for $150, $465 and then I can sell the fox fork and shock and make that $ back...I know marzocchi went out but fox bought them and says they will continue to produce the name...would really like to get the Marzocchi 053 S3C2R Rear Shock but can't find it in a 7.5 x 2

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by worldkaoz View Post
    So for $600 you think it's worth it over getting a Marzocchi 350 CR for $315 and a Marzocchi Roco Air for $150, $465 and then I can sell the fox fork and shock and make that $ back...I know marzocchi went out but fox bought them and says they will continue to produce the name...would really like to get the Marzocchi 053 S3C2R Rear Shock but can't find it in a 7.5 x 2
    I would say ride what you bought and see if you do or don't like things and upgrade accordingly. I rode the stock suspension for a full season before deciding to get it custom tuned. It wasn't that it was bad I just couldn't get it just right for my style of riding.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcf811 View Post
    I would say ride what you bought and see if you do or don't like things and upgrade accordingly. I rode the stock suspension for a full season before deciding to get it custom tuned. It wasn't that it was bad I just couldn't get it just right for my style of riding.
    I generally like to go fast, and enjoy technical riding, Western Colorado and Utah riding...so the 32s won't work they have to go and I can get more if I sell them new...also just found a ccdb inline for $430 brand new...gonna go for that then decide on a fork....I need at least 34mm stachions

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by worldkaoz View Post
    I generally like to go fast, and enjoy technical riding, Western Colorado and Utah riding...so the 32s won't work they have to go and I can get more if I sell them new...also just found a ccdb inline for $430 brand new...gonna go for that then decide on a fork....I need at least 34mm stachions
    You can get the shock done for less than that. Best part of having it tuned is your suspension design, body weight , riding style are taken into account. Maybe give them a call. Also your not gonna be worried about reliability with Fox/push. Just a thought. Either way your gonna have a sweet ride. Enjoy!

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcf811 View Post
    You can get the shock done for less than that. Best part of having it tuned is your suspension design, body weight , riding style are taken into account. Maybe give them a call. Also your not gonna be worried about reliability with Fox/push. Just a thought. Either way your gonna have a sweet ride. Enjoy!
    True...but a ccdb inline...never had one but never heard anything bad...just payed $430 for a new one, figure I could get $230 for the ctd take off, so it would be the same price for a push'd ctd or a ccdb inline, emailed them and it's $200 to tune the shock

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by worldkaoz View Post
    True...but a ccdb inline...never had one but never heard anything bad...just payed $430 for a new one, figure I could get $230 for the ctd take off, so it would be the same price for a push'd ctd or a ccdb inline, emailed them and it's $200 to tune the shock
    Good stuff, enjoy!

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ceepers View Post
    I don't know the measurement but I am 5'6 with a 30" inseam and there's plenty of room on my medium. It's definately the right size, the small would have been too small!

    I actually rode a large on demo as that was the only size bandit they had and the stand over was fine on that too
    Old post but I'm same size and been looking at picking up one of these but would have to roll the dice on size. Could you post what size and brand bikes you've had before so I can get a comparable reference?

    Thx in advance.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  9. #109
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    I'm running the bandit at 150 now with 740 renthal bars and a 50mm zero rise stem. Such a good bike, up and downhill.

    So I've got a medium transition trans am 2015 27.5. Reach is the same as the bandit, seated ETT is a tiny bit longer than the bandit but feels fine.

    Previous bikes were both hard tails. Size small Cotic soul 26 with same bars and stem. Great bike, the right size frame but older style geometry and always felt a little short coming back onto it from the bandit. Before that I had a Genesis core which I think was their m size (17.5) that felt a little big but it was my first bike so I'm not sure what I'd think now. Stand over wasn't great on it though.

    I've ridden a size medium covert 27.5 too which was bang on size wise but too much bike.

    My feeling is that size wise the 2014 transitions were on th small side and sizing up compared to other brands was right kinda like Santa Cruz were at the same time. The M size bandit has a smaller reach than most 2016 mediums. FWIW I think I'd be on a medium scout if I was buying this year!

    The

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ceepers View Post
    I'm running the bandit at 150 now with 740 renthal bars and a 50mm zero rise stem. Such a good bike, up and downhill.

    So I've got a medium transition trans am 2015 27.5. Reach is the same as the bandit, seated ETT is a tiny bit longer than the bandit but feels fine.

    Previous bikes were both hard tails. Size small Cotic soul 26 with same bars and stem. Great bike, the right size frame but older style geometry and always felt a little short coming back onto it from the bandit. Before that I had a Genesis core which I think was their m size (17.5) that felt a little big but it was my first bike so I'm not sure what I'd think now. Stand over wasn't great on it though.

    I've ridden a size medium covert 27.5 too which was bang on size wise but too much bike.

    My feeling is that size wise the 2014 transitions were on th small side and sizing up compared to other brands was right kinda like Santa Cruz were at the same time. The M size bandit has a smaller reach than most 2016 mediums. FWIW I think I'd be on a medium scout if I was buying this year!

    The
    Thanks. Interesting comment on the SC's as I have always sized smalls on my varied bikes except for theirs, had a medium Superlight and it felt great, only issue was with the 650b wheels it sat a little high which helped with pedal strike clearance but cut down on the carving. Was looking at Bantams too but thinking a little more travel gap would be good from my Anthem and hard tail/ss.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  11. #111
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    I think I prob size as a small in most companies ranges

    I looked at the bantams too - growing up watching roskopp skate has always had me hankering after an SC. They are pretty pricey in the uk, the bandit seemed more capable than the bantam and the cheapest solo frame (which was the other bike I really fancied) was another $600 for no real gain as far as I could see.

    Never regretted buying the bandit. It climbs really well, quick enough to drop my mates and my nerve goes before the bike gets out of shape descending. It's bloody quick and a well balanced every day bike

  12. #112
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    My build so far

    Everything is brand new, here is how my build is coming along so far, just waiting for all the parts to arrive so I can build it up and sell the old parts, reclaim some of my investment:

    $1,800 bandit 2 build brand new w/ warranty
    $430 ccdb inline rear shock 7.5 x 2
    $200 Easton xlt wheelset 27.5
    $50 front and rear tires (kenda small block eight 2.1 rear kenda nevegal 2.35 front)
    $220 Shimano deore xt drivetrain 1x11 42t (shadow+ rear derailer, shifter, chain and cassette)
    $40 Raceface Atlas bars


    Total investment: $2,740

    For sale, all brand new take offs: $440 set
    Fox float ctd BV kashima $150
    Drive train - 10 spd cassette, xt shadow+ rear derailer, x7 front derailer, shifters, chain, - $110
    Revolution Trail 27.5 wheelset w/ Schwalbe Nobby Nic Evo 2.25 tires - $150
    Kore Mega handlebars $30

    Keeping the slx brakes, raceface evolve crank, and fox 32 FIT ctd kashima 140mm fork on the bike.

    $2,300 build when I sell the take off parts...not too bad in my opinion, especially considering that pricepoint is the cheapest place to get one for $2,100 with an x-fusion fork and all lower end parts
    Last edited by worldkaoz; 01-21-2016 at 09:50 AM.

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by worldkaoz View Post
    Everything is brand new, here is how my build is coming along so far, just waiting for all the parts to arrive so I can build it up and sell the old parts, reclaim some of my investment:

    $1,800 bandit 2 build brand new w/ warranty
    $430 ccdb inline rear shock 7.5 x 2
    $200 Easton xlt wheelset 27.5
    $50 front and rear tires (kenda small block eight 2.1 rear kenda nevegal 2.35 front)
    $220 Shimano deore xt drivetrain 1x11 42t (shadow+ rear derailer, shifter, chain and cassette)
    $40 Raceface Atlas bars


    Total investment: $2,740

    For sale, all brand new take offs: $440 set
    Fox float ctd BV kashima $150
    Drive train - 10 spd cassette, xt shadow+ rear derailer, x7 front derailer, shifters, chain, - $110
    Revolution Trail 27.5 wheelset w/ Schwalbe Nobby Nic Evo 2.25 tires - $150
    Kore Mega handlebars $30

    Keeping the slx brakes, raceface evolve crank, and fox 32 FIT ctd kashima 140mm fork on the bike.

    $2,300 build when I sell the take off parts...not too bad in my opinion, especially considering that pricepoint is the cheapest place to get one for $2,100 with an x-fusion fork and all lower end parts
    Pics?

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcf811 View Post
    Pics?
    Bandit 27.5-screenshot_2016-02-18-18-11-41.jpg

    Just waiting on the pedals to get here, and still deciding if I want to keep the 2x10 or install the 1x11 I already bought...I've been too busy fat biking here in Colorado at 10,600' that I haven't even been able to ride it yet, oh and threw on a KS lev dropper I already had

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by worldkaoz View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Just waiting on the pedals to get here, and still deciding if I want to keep the 2x10 or install the 1x11 I already bought...I've been too busy fat biking here in Colorado at 10,600' that I haven't even been able to ride it yet, oh and threw on a KS lev dropper I already had
    Looking good

  16. #116
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    Hello guys - anyone out there tried to put a 29" wheels on a 27.5 frame? Since this is my only bike right now, I'd like to know for sure if it would fit before I invest in a wheelset and fork. According to their site, the chainstay length for 27.5 is 430mm while the 29er version is 442mm.

    Reason for doing this? 50+ miles of gravel grinding

    Thank you!

  17. #117
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    I just looked at my 29er vs my wife's 27.5 and I'm gonna say no way with mountain tires. It looks like my 32c road tires are smaller o.d. than the 27.5 x 2.35 though.

  18. #118
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    What should I upgrade?

    Bandit 27.5 what to upgrade?

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ceepers View Post
    What should I upgrade?

    Bandit 27.5 what to upgrade?
    I had my shock and fork done by push for my bandit and it really made the bike ride so much better. I highly recommend it.

  20. #120
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    What difference did the push tune on the shock make? How did it feel different afterwards?

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ceepers View Post
    What difference did the push tune on the shock make? How did it feel different afterwards?
    Personally I didn't hate the ctd I just couldn't get it quite right. In descend it was a little too mushy on the short punchy climbs and in trail 1 position it lost too much of the plush traction. Sent it to push and I'm able to run in descend all the time. So while not as eye opening as maybe a high end set of wheels but for me it really made the bike better.

    You do have to take into account what type of trails you ride. Where I am it isn't a long fire road climb to the top and bombing down, if it was the shock in stock form would be fine.

    You might want to save some more money and consider a fork or wheels.

    I'm glad I'm not the only one still loving the bandit 27.5. It's really a awesome bike.

    Hope that helps.

  22. #122
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    I'm in love with my bandit and am keeping it for a few yrs, ccdb inline and Easton vice xlt wheelset, fox ctd fit kashima fork...the thing rides like a dream

  23. #123
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    It's a great bike and pretty quick both up and downhill according to my strava exploits!

    I guess I'm just looking for a medium expense upgrade! A push tune is definitely affordable or I think I could afford a CCDb inline.

    The wheelset I've got is fairly light.

    A new fork is probably out of my budget - pikes are closer to $800 over here and the Yari is still $650 plus so more Than I have to spend at the moment. I'm not sure that I've noticed an issue with the fork and I have in the back of my mind the feedback from lots of people that the stock shock tune is lacking.

    I guess most of the riding it does is on 3 hour rides, either at our trail centres which tend to be a mix of fire road climbs and singletrack that snakes up and down and days out where the riding can be a mix of roots singletrack and loose rocky double track. I like descending most although I'm not a slouch up hill so climbing is important.

    As I said on the other thread, I find that if I run around 110 psi in the shock (which sounds low right?) I get full travel on a full bore descent but it's Mushy to pedal in descend mode and not as plush as I'd like in trail (yet still blows through its travel over rollers/g out. In climb it tends to sit really deep into the travel and that makes the front end light.

    If I run more psi then I don't get full travel even in descend. I guess I'd like climb to sit higher and descend to have a bit more pedal support without losing plushness. I "think" that means a bit more mid stroke support or a slightly more linear feel?

    I've been running the fastest rebound setting.

    It's my first FS so I don't have a lot of previous experience to compare to, in fact I ride hardtail mostly around home still

    The

  24. #124
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    Running the fastest rebound can buck you off, be careful. And it sounds to me like you should push the shock or sell and get a ccdb inline, either way is a win

  25. #125
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    Hi Creepers. HAHA....you are describing PRECISELY the same issues I had with my Bandit with the stock CTD Factory shock (NOT the Float X), and the 140mm Fox 32 CTD fork. My BIGGEST complaint was that when the sag was set correctly and it felt right on general trail riding, it stayed too far into the travel. Pedal strikes galore, and it would just BLOW through the mid travel going over anything. The last straw was when I railed into a corner on a descent and struck my lowered OUTSIDE pedal on the ground...and the ground was level! It didn't bottom out harshly typically, but the ramp up was just too late. I sent it to Suspension Experts to be Push tuned after describing everything in detail. I shipped it on a Monday, and had it back on Friday!!! Now, that was during the off season, but it was AMAZING service. I cannot recommend them any stronger, and I'm not the only one...everyone here uses them.

    It made a WORLD of difference in the bike. My landing off drops are much more controlled, it doesn't blow through the mid travel, and it feels plenty plush enough. I almost never lock it out for climbing, because it actually climbs technical stuff better with the suspension engaged so that it maintains traction. I will lock it out on long smooth climbs, but that's RARE.

    I ride it on Trail Mode the vast majority of the time, and it still feels plush enough. When I want to rip a descent, I'll switch to descend.

    Fork wise...that Fork STINKS. It just dives WAY too easily. I didn't realize how bad it was until I test rode a Scout with a Pike. WORLD of difference. I sent the fork to SE too, and they modded it with their rebound adjustments, and I gave up the CTD mode. I don't miss it AT ALL, and now the fork doesn't dive. Sometimes I wish I had the 34 rather than the 32, but it's not enough to make me want to spend the money to upgrade it now that it performs MUCH better.

    One other thing. I had been seriously considering a different bike just to get something new. I've ridden a new Scout, Patrol, GT Carbon Sensor, GT Force X Carbon, Orbea Rallon, and Orbea Occam 27.5. While I REALLY jived with the Sensor Carbon, and think that's a spectacular bike, I can't say that it's any better than my Bandit on all around performance....just lighter and a little more muted ride due to the carbon. Now...I obviously haven't tried it, but if the Scout comes out in carbon and I could get that down around 27 lbs or so, that would be a bike I would want to try. I run Sun Ringle Charger Pro's, which are practically bullet proof, Maxxis Minion DHF front, and DHR II rear (I like traction!), the new M8000 11 speed stuff with a RF NW up front, and my M Bandit weighs in at 30.5 lbs. I wish I had bought the large, because at times I feel a little cramped on it, but it makes it more flickable and easier to control on the descents, so I'm fine with it.

    Thing is...not sure what it is about that bike, but it's a snappy pedaling bike even compared to the Scout. I will say that ride on a L Carbon Sensor with their newest version of the "I Drive" and a 160mm 2015 Fox 34 was NICE, and it's the only bike that tempts me for my style of riding. Aggressive, technical single track, and medium drops and jumps, but nothing HUGE at 47. :-)

    I can't say a DB inline or a Float X wouldn't be better on the bike, because I haven't tried them. I can say definitively though, that with the right instructions, Suspension Experts can make your existing suspension MUCH better than it is stock. On that point...I am CONFIDENT!

  26. #126
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    I just built up a 2014 white and black Transition Bandit that was on closeout at Pricepoint. I had just broken a Niner RIP9 frame and was in need of a frame at a good price, so I couldn't pass up this frame for $650 shipped. I've had it out on the trail twice and it's one mean machine. Climbs better than my Niner did and being an inch taller in the seatpost, I feel more relaxed on it. The Niner was a L and the Bandit is an XL.

    Also went ahead and bit the bullet on a wheelset as well. Upgraded to DT Swiss ex471 wheels with Chris King hubs. There's quite a few different factors going on with this bike compared to the Niner, since components have changed going from one bike to the other. For me, the Transition is leaps and bounds better, since I think the L Niner still may not had of been the right size for me. I felt a little cramped out of the saddle climbing, where on the Bandit, I feel right at home. I'm only 6' tall, but I like to be a bit more relaxed on my rides, since I'm a in the saddle pedal guy most of the time.

  27. #127
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    Hey weezer, I assume your Bandit is a 29er? The Bandit 29 is a bit shorter than the 27.5, so the L 27.5 falls between the L and XL on the 29.

    I'm also 6', I went with the Large Bandit 27.5 and swapped the 70mm stem and 710mm bars to a 50mm stem and 750mm bars. Loving this bike.

  28. #128
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    Glad people are still loving the bandit, just sold my devinci troy and kept my 27.5 bandit, 1 or the other had to go and I just couldn't pull the trigger on my custom bandit I've built...it's just so damn fun!!

  29. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by david.p View Post
    Hey weezer, I assume your Bandit is a 29er? The Bandit 29 is a bit shorter than the 27.5, so the L 27.5 falls between the L and XL on the 29.

    I'm also 6', I went with the Large Bandit 27.5 and swapped the 70mm stem and 710mm bars to a 50mm stem and 750mm bars. Loving this bike.
    Yes, my Bandit is a 29er. I moved over my Niner stem, seatpost, bars, and headset. I have an 80mm stem and it feels good so far. Still getting used to the geometry. Rode with my seat lower last night and felt just a tad cramped. Raised the seat about 1.5 inches and will ride it again today. Only felt a little cramped due to not enough leg extension. Pedaling efficiency is great on this bike and I'm 235 naked on the Fox CTD BV, which isn't the best shock. Had the RP23 on my last 2 bikes and I never really set the sag correctly on it. Have the sag set right on this shock and it feels much better.

  30. #130
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    Best shock imo for the bandit is a ccdb inline, if you're willing to dish out $500

  31. #131
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    [QUOTE=worldkaoz;12672473]just sold my devinci troy and kept my 27.5 bandit

    Interesting! The Troy is on my short list to eventually replace my Bandit. How would you compare the two?

  32. #132
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    The troy is fantastic, love the pike and monarch...climbs extremely well and great on the descents very fun...I just grew to love my single pivot with the ccdb inline, once I figured out the low speed compression and rebound it climbs so well and the downs are insane. It's hard to compare the 2, I think I just liked the bandit more bc I built it custom and the troy was stock and I wasn't going to put anymore money into it.

  33. #133
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    My bandit 27.5 build

    Easton vice xlt wheelset
    Fox 32 ctd FIT kashima fork
    Ccdb inline shock
    Raceface Atlas bars uncut
    Raceface evolve crank
    KS lev dropper
    Slx brakes/shifters
    X7 front
    Xt shadow+ rear 2x10
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Bandit 27.5-dsc_0803.jpg  


  34. #134
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    Looks great, kaoz.

    Here's mine:

    Bandit 27.5-gr001-2004_bandit-1024c.jpg

    Bandit 27.5, L
    Fox Float CTD Adj
    X-Fusion Sweep @ 160mm
    Easton Haven wheels
    Geax Goma 2.4 front, 2.25 rear
    Easton Haven 35 AL bar, 750mm
    Race Face Aeffect 35 stem, 50mm
    Selle Italia SLR Flow Monolink Combo
    Deore brakes, XT rotors 180mm front, 160mm rear
    XT 24/38 crank 2x10 w/ SLX shifters & 11-36t casette
    MRP 2x chain guide
    SLX FD
    XT Shadow+ RD

    Bike is a blast on our punchy, tight, rooty, rocky trails.

  35. #135
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    Looks really good, sleek. How do you feel about the deore brakes, they didn't seem to be enought on my old troy

  36. #136
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    Looks like a Pricepoint Bandit? Great deals going on now! I got my PP Bandit last year for a little over 2K but had to make some upgrades. This year's build kit seems like a much better deal. Good score! Here's mine...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Bandit 27.5-saxon.jpg  


  37. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by worldkaoz View Post
    Looks really good, sleek. How do you feel about the deore brakes, they didn't seem to be enough on my old troy
    No issues so far and I'd say my experience matches this review. Though as our trails don't have much in the way of sustained descents and considering my Jones is happily running BB7s I'm probably not the most demanding user.

    Quote Originally Posted by gibsonlespaulspecial View Post
    Looks like a Pricepoint Bandit? Great deals going on now! I got my PP Bandit last year for a little over 2K but had to make some upgrades. This year's build kit seems like a much better deal. Good score! Here's mine...
    Yeah, it's a Pricepoint going out of business special - amazing deal. Saw the price, spent over a week learning about the bike, reading this and every other Bandit thread I could find, then finally bought it. So glad I did.

    Great looking Bandit! Are you running your Sweep @ 160mm? I'm waffling on lowering mine to 140mm but am pretty happy with the handling as is.

  38. #138
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    Yeah I lowered it to 140mm for better climbing performance. I'd recommend checking out X-fusions videos for self-servicing your fork. I also went to 1x10 by dropping the 38T ring and changing the 24T ring to 28T. Tires, wheels, brakes, and saddle also got changed. Dropped the bike from 34lbs to 28.5lbs!

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by gibsonlespaulspecial View Post
    Yeah I lowered it to 140mm for better climbing performance. I'd recommend checking out X-fusions videos for self-servicing your fork. I also went to 1x10 by dropping the 38T ring and changing the 24T ring to 28T. Tires, wheels, brakes, and saddle also got changed. Dropped the bike from 34lbs to 28.5lbs!
    Nice weight drop man, been meaning to weigh mines at the lbs...pp had them for $1,800 recently and I actually considered getting a second one at that price lol bc well, why not? Hahaha used to be 4-5k when it first came out

  40. #140
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    Here's my current setup:

    Bandit 27.5, M
    Fox Float CTD Adj
    X-Fusion Sweep @ 160mm
    Easton Haven wheels
    Maxxis Minion DHF 2.3 front, Maxxis High Roller II 2.3 rear
    Easton Respond bar, 760mm
    Race Face Evolve stem, 50mm
    WTB Rocket V Saddle
    Shimano MX80 Saint Flat Pedals
    XT m785 brakes, XT rotors 180mm front, 160mm rear
    XT m785 crankset w/ RaceFace Narrow‑Wide Single Ring 30t Chainring
    XT m8000 11 Speed Cassette 11-42t
    XT m8000 11 Speed Shifter
    XT m8000 11 Speed Shadow+ RD

    Bandit 27.5-img_0803.jpg
    Last edited by ogle.benjamin; 07-04-2016 at 03:43 PM.

  41. #141
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    Solid build!

  42. #142
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    Thanks, you too!

  43. #143
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    Bandit 27.5-uploadfromtaptalk1465657235950.jpgI'll keep the bandit love going too.

  44. #144
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    Looks like an interesting ride. Been on a 2009 Specialized Stumpjumper Marathon 29er for the past 5 years that has kinda beat me to death. Before that I was riding an 07 Intense Spider XVP 26". I just built the XVP back up. Does not roll over stuff as well as the 29er, but very plush. Still have both.

    Today I see this Transition Bandit. Looks like the best of both worlds. Would roll over stuff better than the 26 but be way more plush than my 29er hard tail.

    Questions - I have no idea ... I wanna keep it as light as possible

    Wheels offered:
    Easton Haven 12x135/142 Rear, 15x100 Front
    vs
    WTB SX23 / Shimano CenterLock Hub

    Hmmm .... not reading very good reviews about the Free Hub in the Havens

    From what I can tell the Easton Havens would be about a pound lighter. Which is the better wheel set?

    **********
    Fork:
    15 Marzocchi 350
    vs
    X-Fusion Sweep

    I have an X-Fusion Velvet R on the Spider and really like it. I also think I have found that the X-Fusion would be slightly lighter than the Marzocchi. What would be the key differences in either fork. Choice?

    **********

    Red or Blue ... Lol ... But seriously. I am torn. Leaning toward Red as Red would probably be easier to sell later. And a few yeas ago I really wanted a Niner EMD in Tamale red. But the blue looks nice also.

    Thanks
    Mike
    Last edited by mrm1; 06-28-2016 at 08:28 PM.

  45. #145
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    MRM, these are the bandits on pricepoint, right? It looks like they only have mediums left. If that works for you, I'd suggest the haven wheels with the sweep fork. With a reasonable set of tires and 1x drivetrain you can get that down to 28-29 lbs. Note that the sweep comes at 160mm (not 140 like the bandit was designed for) but you can take it apart and set it to 140 if you want.

  46. #146
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    I've been riding my bandit 275 with a Pike 160/130 from the beginning. I wouldn't
    change that if I were to replace the fork.

  47. #147
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    Thanks and yes that is the Price Point one. I am thinking the same... Sweep and Haven. Weight., weight Weight. My full suspension 26 Intense spider comes in at about 26....my29erHT at about 24. I am concerned 32plus will feel odd and clunky.

  48. #148
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    160 won't bother me. I like a more slack relaxed feel

  49. #149
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    Mrm1, Iíve been very happy with the performance and weight with the Sweep and Haven setup (with a 1x drivetrain). Itís definitely your best option still available on PricePoint. You cannot beat this bike for the price!

  50. #150
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    Agreed that 32lbs would feel chunky. My XL is roughly 29lbs now.

  51. #151
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    For an aluminum trail bike with 140mm travel, 28-29 pounds is pretty good. Again, you would have to go to 1x up to drop one pound there. Here's what I have for weights for that build...

    frame bandit 3137
    shock float ctd 220
    fork sweep 1858
    headset cane creek 40 109
    crankset slx 1x10 642
    bb slx 88
    derailleur xt 260
    shifter slx 133
    cable generic 65
    cassette slx 372
    chain kmc 268
    wheels haven 1720
    front tire geax saguaro 740
    rear tire geax saguaro 740
    tubes generic 400
    brakes deore 910
    bars raceface ride 337
    stem raceface ride 146
    grips odi ruffian 115
    saddle selle slr flow 253
    seatpost raceface ride 290
    small parts misc 75
    total (kg) 12.9
    total (lbs) 28.3

  52. #152
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    Ok ... just pressed the order button. After I swap out the bars for SLK carbon wraps (dropping about 200g), going tubeless, Installing some New SLX brakes I have laying around, And switching the 740g Geax Saguaro for some Ardent Race 3c's ... that should keep some of the weight down. I would have liked to have gotten some Racing Ralphs .... but mabey next time.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Bandit 27.5-stuff.jpg  


  53. #153
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    Nice! You should come in at around 27lbs. Amazing deal for that bike!

  54. #154
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    That's what I thought.... For a mostly XT with some SLX group thrown in.... U can't go wrong.

    I'm just wondering coming off of the VPP design of the Intense if a single pivot is going to feel like a step back in Mt Bike time and history.

  55. #155
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    I'm still loving my '14 Bandit and it absolutely rips on the trail. Only my skill level keeps me from pushing the bike harder.

  56. #156
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    I've read a good bit of mediocre and negative reviews about the Easton Haven wheel's rear hub. Any tried the upgrade? Is it still being offered by Easton?

    Easton Offering Free Hub Upgrade Kits (BOOSH!) - Mountain Bikes Press Releases - Vital MTB

  57. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrm1 View Post
    I'm just wondering coming off of the VPP design of the Intense if a single pivot is going to feel like a step back in Mt Bike time and history.
    Take comfort in the fact that a new 27lb VPP bike (Spider, 5010) would probably run $5K-$6K.

  58. #158
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    I believe mine were sent wth the upgraded bearings already installed. That first video shows how to determine if they have been upgraded or not.
    Last edited by ogle.benjamin; 07-03-2016 at 12:51 PM.

  59. #159
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    I'm thinking of buying another one.... Then building it up and selling it and my 29er ht on Craigslist. Between the 2 I could probably more than pay for the 1st Bandit.

  60. #160
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    For anyone who purchased or knows this bike from Price Point as a bike build kit...

    Will the bike kit include little things like :
    • Fork star nut for the stem top bolt? installed?
    • Will the steer of the fork be cut?
    • Fork crown race?
    • Will there be fork/stem spacers?
    • Etc


    From the site.... "All necessary components are included"..." You are purchasing a fully unassembled bike build kit. Please be informed that every item will come individually packaged with nothing installed on the frame."

    I get I'll have to build it..... Just wondering what I'll have to scrounge up and /or go after from an lbs.
    Probably the only thing I don't have is a star nut and for sure won't have the over size fork crown race washer.

  61. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrm1 View Post
    For anyone who purchased or knows this bike from Price Point as a bike build kit...

    Will the bike kit include little things like :
    • Fork star nut for the stem top bolt? installed?
    • Will the steer of the fork be cut?
    • Fork crown race?
    • Will there be fork/stem spacers?
    • Etc


    From the site.... "All necessary components are included"..." You are purchasing a fully unassembled bike build kit. Please be informed that every item will come individually packaged with nothing installed on the frame."

    I get I'll have to build it..... Just wondering what I'll have to scrounge up and /or go after from an lbs.
    Probably the only thing I don't have is a star nut and for sure won't have the over size fork crown race washer.
    Mine was one of thir ďpro buildĒ configurations, so I canít really speak to most what you are asking (I kinda wish mine came unassembled; building it is half the fun!). But mine came with a star nut included with the sweep documentation. So I would assume you should receive a star nut with your build. Not too sure about the crown race though.

  62. #162
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    Check my stash earlier today.... I have everything BUT a crown race for the over size fork steer... But if memory serves me those are part of the head set.

  63. #163
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    On the build kits nothing is installed but everything is included to build the bike and ride it except pedals. Everything is in OEM or retail packaging as if you bought all the parts separately on your own. I really enjoyed building mine up and didn't run into any problems.

  64. #164
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    I just bought a bunch of Anodized Blue Bling for the Red bike ... Might be Ewww ... Might look Cool. Not sure.

    - Blue stem spacers 50mm stack
    - Blue Crank Bolts
    - Blue Seatpost clamp
    - Blue Rear DR pulleys
    - Blue Cable C-Clips ... not really sure if the standard C-Clips will work Because it looks like the frame routes the cables down in pairs.
    - Blue Disk Bolts

    Should be pretty interesting. It will either look Good ... or Ghetto

  65. #165
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    Only a couple of cable attachment points use standard C-clips (the frame comes with 2 IIRC), most of them are paired and require zip ties (or possibly another type of clip I'm not familiar with and is not provided).

  66. #166
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    I'm still on the Bandit 27.5 too. Loving it!

  67. #167
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    Kit arrived today. Wondering ... do I need a Brake Post adapter on the X-fusion Sweep to run a 180mm disc? the kit shipped with the 180mm disc but no front for adapter. I am guessing I need that? (I have one on hand if I need it, but will need to have it replaced)

  68. #168
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    Will finish it up tomorrow. Routing Cables and Brakes and done. Debating about NOT installing the Front DR and Shifter. If I do not install the Frt DR it would be a 1x10 with a 11-36 ... what do I need (if anything) in place of the Frt Dr? Suggestions? Something like this ...? Or unnecessary?

    1pc CNC Fouriers Downhill Chain Guide Bash Guards Device 1 System ISCG ISCG05 | eBay

  69. #169
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    I use a narrow-wide chainring from Absolute Black with no chain guide and it works just fine for me.

  70. #170
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    PP Bandit Build

    Arrived Yesterday. Finished up the build today. Headed to "The Santos" in the morning. Here is how it worked out ...

    - PP sent a carbon Seatpost/Selle Italia Monolink Saddle Combo/Group
    - Did get the Upgraded Havens !!
    - I did not need a 180mm disc adapter in the front on the sweep
    - Could not use my SLX brakes ... hoses too short coming off the 29er Odd
    - Used FSA SL-K carbon bars and 80mm Gravity Stem
    - Alligator Rotors instead of the Shimano ones
    - Maxxis Ardent Race 2.2 instead of the shipped Geax Saguaro Wire Bead 2.0
    - Set up Tubeless
    - Forgot to weight the shift housing ... but Fully assembled as a 2-10 and M520 clipless pedals ...

    Total Weight = 27.84

    A little concerned as I could not get the cockpit to stretch out as much as my other bikes. The frame definitely runs smallish. I came up about 3/4 of an inch short even with the seat slammed all the way back. But ... I did feel my 29er was too big (because it was).

    Also could not get the sag in the Fox Float CTD to hit 15% until I put 210 lbs of air in it. I started with 150 (I weigh 175) and it really squatted. But I mess around with that tomorrow at the trail.

    So I'll see tomorrow how it goes. Should be good though as I really like a more flick-able bike.

    Thanks for the Feed Back
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Bandit 27.5-26.jpg  

    Bandit 27.5-28.jpg  

    Bandit 27.5-32.jpg  


  71. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrm1 View Post
    Arrived Yesterday. Finished up the build today. Headed to "The Santos" in the morning. Here is how it worked out ...

    - PP sent a carbon Seatpost/Selle Italia Monolink Saddle Combo/Group
    - Did get the Upgraded Havens !!
    - I did not need a 180mm disc adapter in the front on the sweep
    - Could not use my SLX brakes ... hoses too short coming off the 29er Odd
    - Used FSA SL-K carbon bars and 80mm Gravity Stem
    - Alligator Rotors instead of the Shimano ones
    - Maxxis Ardent Race 2.2 instead of the shipped Geax Saguaro Wire Bead 2.0
    - Set up Tubeless
    - Forgot to weight the shift housing ... but Fully assembled as a 2-10 and M520 clipless pedals ...

    Total Weight = 27.84

    A little concerned as I could not get the cockpit to stretch out as much as my other bikes. The frame definitely runs smallish. I came up about 3/4 of an inch short even with the seat slammed all the way back. But ... I did feel my 29er was too big (because it was).

    Also could not get the sag in the Fox Float CTD to hit 15% until I put 210 lbs of air in it. I started with 150 (I weigh 175) and it really squatted. But I mess around with that tomorrow at the trail.

    So I'll see tomorrow how it goes. Should be good though as I really like a more flick-able bike.

    Thanks for the Feed Back
    Looking good.

  72. #172
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    As far as setting sag on the shock, I've found that if I put my geared up weight in psi that gets me in the 25-20% range.

  73. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcf811 View Post
    As far as setting sag on the shock, I've found that if I put my geared up weight in psi that gets me in the 25-20% range.
    Yeah I am taking about 230 psi to get it to sag at about 15% (I am running it firm to combat single pivot "bobb"). Just surprised me at my 175lbs self (but that is not geared up - probably more like 185 with gear) ... but it has surprised me it is taking that much air.

    How often does anyone have to add air to the CTD?

  74. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcf811 View Post
    As far as setting sag on the shock, I've found that if I put my geared up weight in psi that gets me in the 25-20% range.
    Same here, and it holds air really well.

  75. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrm1 View Post
    Total Weight = 27.84
    Impressive!

  76. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrm1 View Post
    Yeah I am taking about 230 psi to get it to sag at about 15% (I am running it firm to combat single pivot "bobb"). Just surprised me at my 175lbs self (but that is not geared up - probably more like 185 with gear) ... but it has surprised me it is taking that much air.

    How often does anyone have to add air to the CTD?
    If you like it firm I would suggest to try running 20-25% but leave it in trail 2/3, or even climb.

  77. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcf811 View Post
    If you like it firm I would suggest to try running 20-25% but leave it in trail 2/3, or even climb.
    +1. I keep coming back to Trail-2 for my riding. Plenty of comfort to remain seated when pedaling over rough stuff but the bike also feels really responsive when standing.

  78. #178
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    Inaugural Ride

    Thanks for the Feed back all. It is indeed a fun poppy bike. I really like how easily the front wheel comes off the ground. It was everything I was looking for in a bike. I found myself thrashing runs I had been avoiding for the past several years since I switched to a 29er. So ... Mt Biking is fun again !! (Yeah I got my 29er lovers flame suit on )

    A couple of questions. Help me understand ...

    I have read a lot about the "slack geometry" of the frame being made even more so by the addition of the 160mm fork. I noticed from the moment I threw my leg over the bike that (especially at low speeds) the front wheel was kinda "floppy" (I dont know how else to describe it). It would track a straight line, but as you turned the bars/wheel would almost flop or really turn quickly in the direction of the turn. Kinda reminded me of a skateboard with loose trucks. I always tended to over stiffen/tighten my trucks for ramp riding. I am guessing this is due to the slack head tube - and this is the part that everyone seems to like about slack head tubes?? ... made more slack by the 160mm fork, etc. Not that it was bad ... but just did not expect it. Nearly grabbed me going down a steep tech section littered with rocks and roots. Wheel found a rock and just turned off quickly to the left without warning once the bike leaned that way.

    Could I change this by:
    1. using the 60mm stem instead of the 80mm I put on it?
    2. dropping the fork travel to 140 or even 120mm? I know this would be trade offs, but...

    Anyway ... fun fun bike. Did notice pedal bob and decreased pedal efficiency in the single pivot from my VPP 26 ... but I know everything is a trade off. Overall I like the bike and the very plush feel. Had a good Inaugural Day at the trail.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Bandit 27.5-mtbr1.jpg  

    Bandit 27.5-mtbr2.png  

    Bandit 27.5-mtbr3.jpg  

    Bandit 27.5-mtbr4.jpg  

    Bandit 27.5-mtbr5.jpg  

    Bandit 27.5-mtbr6.jpg  

    Bandit 27.5-mtbr8.jpg  


  79. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcf811 View Post
    If you like it firm I would suggest to try running 20-25% but leave it in trail 2/3, or even climb.
    Set it up with about 230 psi and 15-20% sag and ran it at Trail 3. Nice and plush. Never bottomed out. Pretty decent platform and pedal efficiency hammering and up out of the saddle. Riding all day saw me use most if not all the travel, so I think it is about right. Still just surprised it took 230 psi.

  80. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrm1 View Post
    I have read a lot about the "slack geometry" of the frame being made even more so by the addition of the 160mm fork. I noticed from the moment I threw my leg over the bike that (especially at low speeds) the front wheel was kinda "floppy" (I dont know how else to describe it). It would track a straight line, but as you turned the bars/wheel would almost flop or really turn quickly in the direction of the turn.

    ...

    Could I change this by:
    1. using the 60mm stem instead of the 80mm I put on it?
    2. dropping the fork travel to 140 or even 120mm? I know this would be trade offs, but...
    Sounds like a good first outing!

    The 68ļ head angle @ 140mm really isn't very slack for a 27.5 bike (comparing to a 29er, a 27.5 bike needs lower head angle for the same feel). Even with the extra A-C of the fork at 160mm it comes out about 67ļ, pretty standard these days.

    That said, I found a similar feeling when I first got my Bandit and took it out with the stock 70mm stem and 710mm bar. Changing to a 50mm stem and 750mm bar was a big improvement in control. If your bar is already as wide as you want to go maybe just trying a shorter stem would be worthwhile.

    I also recently lowered my Sweep to 140mm (I would not go lower than this). This did make a difference on technical switchback climbs but it's not night and day - the bar/stem swap was a much bigger factor.

  81. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by david.p View Post
    ... I found a similar feeling when I first got my Bandit and took it out with the stock 70mm stem and 710mm bar. Changing to a 50mm stem and 750mm bar was a big improvement in control. If your bar is already as wide as you want to go maybe just trying a shorter stem would be worthwhile.
    Bars are as wide as I can handle .... but I do have a 60mm that was going on the "For Sale" Specy SJ Marathon ... I can easily give it a try and decide which stem "wins".

    Quote Originally Posted by david.p View Post
    I also recently lowered my Sweep to 140mm (I would not go lower than this). This did make a difference on technical switchback climbs but it's not night and day - the bar/stem swap was a much bigger factor.
    Your Seein' what I'm saying. Thanks for the feed back. I think I'm on the right track then. Get this bike dialed in and it is going to be a blast !!


    BTW ... did you do the Sweep adjustment yourself? I watched the X-Fusion video and I think it took all of 7 minutes ... BUT ... he had a press for the pin AND a threaded punch looking tool to separated the legs from the lowers. Did you have special tools or just regular hand tools. Any suggestions?

  82. #182
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    X-fusion now has an inexpensive damper removal tool they sell to customers (you can call them to order it). I'll probably get one at some point but I just followed the instructions in this thread to get the fork apart: official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread

    Moving the pin took the most time. I ended up using a vice and various spacer materials as the press, and a couple of chain link pins as well as the head and shank of a roofing nail (ground the point off) to push the pin. I got the idea from this thread: X Fusion Velvet, Internal Travel Adjust

  83. #183
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    Thanks

  84. #184
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    Wondering ... I am thinking of Modifying the Shimano M785 XT 2x Crankset to a 1x. I think the Bolt patter is 104 BCD. What would you recommend for a chain ring in the front on a 10x cassette that is 11-36?

  85. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrm1 View Post
    Wondering ... I am thinking of Modifying the Shimano M785 XT 2x Crankset to a 1x. I think the Bolt patter is 104 BCD. What would you recommend for a chain ring in the front on a 10x cassette that is 11-36?
    The pattern is 104 BCD. I think a lot has to do with the terrain you typically ride. You may want a 30t ring for hillier areas while a 32t or 34t ring may are better for flatter trails. Consider your fitness level as well. Iíve been using a 30t RaceFace NW in my bandit for a few months now and it has been working for me. Haven't dropped a chain yet!

  86. #186
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    Im fat and lazy and climb about 1000' an hour. I like a 30t with a 40t saucer add on cog.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Fifty-two, I mean fifty-four bicycles on the wall
    Ready to ride, ready to ride until the last of them falls

  87. #187
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    Flat Florida Here

  88. #188
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    Just see what gears you don't need and go from there. Example, if you can ride without using the 2 lowest gears (36T cog and 32T cog), then go with a 32T 104BCD up front. If you need the stay out of the lowest gear (36) but not the second lowest (32), go with 28T 64BCD. Mine is 28T. It looks a little odd having nothing mounted to the outer spider, but whatever. On paved roads I sometimes miss the larger gears but never on the trails.

  89. #189
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    But 104 is the outer spider OR the inner one?

  90. #190
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    104 is the outer. The smallest ring that fits 104 BCD is 30T. If you go with a 28T ring it needs to go on the inner ring, 64BCD.

  91. #191
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    Thanks

  92. #192
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    On Price Point which bike is better? The red is 1600 and the blue is 1700. The blue has the Sweep forks.

  93. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick_PNW View Post
    On Price Point which bike is better? The red is 1600 and the blue is 1700. The blue has the Sweep forks.
    Blue; Iíd be worried about getting replacement parts for the Marzocchi. Iím not too sure what Fox is going to do with the brand long term. The sweep is a pretty solid fork and it gives you the ability to swap in the Roughcut HLR damper cartridge.

  94. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick_PNW View Post
    On Price Point which bike is better? The red is 1600 and the blue is 1700. The blue has the Sweep forks.
    And from what I call tell the Sweep weighs nearly a pound less

  95. #195
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    Awesome thank you! I am hoping to get one soon! They sound like they are pretty good bikes!

  96. #196
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    I've never had the flop with a 50mm stem and 160 Pike. I do notice a big difference when lowering travel to 130mm for steep climbs. I have felt the flop on bikes like the Pivot Mach 6 and that would drive me nuts.

  97. #197
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    FYI ... picked this little tool up for the sweep - $13 dapper removal tool - and it worked perfectly in removing the uppers. I did try a 60mm stem. It helped. But when I switched from the 160mm to the 140mm travel in the fork the bike seemed to get much more stable.

    Now if I can only get that Fox CTD BV to behave. Seems very soft in all modes. Little difference between C, T, and D. I am never bottoming out, but using all the travel in XC riding, which makes me wonder if I WOULD bottom out with a big hit. I weigh in at about 185 full loaded, and I am running 230 lbs of pressure in the shock. Considering a volume reducer

  98. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrm1 View Post
    Now if I can only get that Fox CTD BV to behave. Seems very soft in all modes. Little difference between C, T, and D. I am never bottoming out, but using all the travel in XC riding, which makes me wonder if I WOULD bottom out with a big hit. I weigh in at about 185 full loaded, and I am running 230 lbs of pressure in the shock. Considering a volume reducer
    230 psi sounds crazy. I'm about the same weight and I usually need 180-190 psi. Same observations with c/t/d but the shock is due for a rebuild. Maybe that would help, or maybe I should get a new shock altogether.

  99. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by gibsonlespaulspecial View Post
    230 psi sounds crazy. I'm about the same weight and I usually need 180-190 psi. Same observations with c/t/d but the shock is due for a rebuild. Maybe that would help, or maybe I should get a new shock altogether.
    That is what I thought.

    I just wrote Transition about the Fox ... but as to a rebuild ... mine is new and has about 7 hours on it at most.

    I ran it at 260 yesterday ... it moved less, but the C, T, D had almost NO control difference. The O-Ring still moved about the same in each position and Stomping on the pedals propelled the bike forward But ... it seemed to be wallowing equally in its travel regardless of which switch position (C, T (3), or D) that I tried. I would have thought Climb would have stiffened up the rear end and bob a good bit. Not so much here.

  100. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrm1 View Post
    That is what I thought.

    I just wrote Transition about the Fox ... but as to a rebuild ... mine is new and has about 7 hours on it at most.

    I ran it at 260 yesterday ... it moved less, but the C, T, D had almost NO control difference. The O-Ring still moved about the same in each position and Stomping on the pedals propelled the bike forward But ... it seemed to be wallowing equally in its travel regardless of which switch position (C, T (3), or D) that I tried. I would have thought Climb would have stiffened up the rear end and bob a good bit. Not so much here.
    Something is definitely wrong. I ended up sending mine to push, but even before they got it there was definitely a noticeable difference between the ctd settings. I'm 190-195 geared up and usually end up with about that much psi to achieve 25% sag.

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