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  1. #1
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    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5

    Lets talk about the new geometry. Does anyone have one of these yet? The geometry looks perfect for me in the large. I've always prefered a top tube of around 24.5". Anytime I've gone shorter I feel a bit cramped with a stem under 80mm. My Redline Monoccog has always felt spot on with a 24.5" TT and 70mm stem. Every other bike I've owned I have struggled a bit with the fit. I'm 6'1.5" with a 36" inseam and shortish torso. I always end of with the seat high so that opens up the cockpit a bit. My arms are long too but not crazy. My current Yelli is a great bike but the xl feels a tad big.
    The new Trans am 29 has a TT of 24.7" which should be perfect with a 60mm stem. It seems very few bikes out there have a TT between 24.5 and 25. Anyhow, I'm interested to hear others' thoughts or experiences on this bike.

  2. #2
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    Any one have the dimensions for the Gen 1 model so as to do a side by side comparison.
    Si Vis Pacem, Para Bellum

  3. #3
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  4. #4
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    Si Vis Pacem, Para Bellum

  5. #5
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    I agree, the geometry of this bike looks great for me, it's similar to the 2015 Kona Process I picked up not too long ago. My current singlespeed is really too short for me also. I'm 6' 1/2" with a longish torso. I'd also be looking at a 50 mm-60 mm stem that would be either a bit shorter or longer than the Process, comparing reach plus stem which I think is the best apples to apples measurement, especially if you like to think of fit from a standing neutral or attack position like I do. It's basically a feet to hands measurement. My biggest question is the dropouts. I'm not sure they look beefy enough to not suffer from slip issues which is key for singlespeed use. I had a lousy Trek rig at one point and ended up getting a new Superfly frame from Trek in exchange for the rig frame which I sold and bought a Misfit Dissent. That bike has super beefy bolts and sliders. This system might be just fine and looks cool, but I don't want to end up with a chain slip issue again.

  6. #6
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    I'd be buying the frame and swapping most of my parts over from the other bike. I have a newish 120 mm Revelation that is just waiting for the bike.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by robb_dj View Post
    My biggest question is the dropouts. I'm not sure they look beefy enough to not suffer from slip issues which is key for singlespeed use. This system might be just fine and looks cool, but I don't want to end up with a chain slip issue again.
    If you look closely at the pics on the website, there's bosses inside the stays for chain tensioners. Plus, you could likely switch the allen bolts on the drops with hex cap bolts to get a bit more torque if you do have slip issues. Might run in to some interference with the hoods but maybe not.

  8. #8
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    If you look at the silver metallic frame in the picture, it has them inserted. I assume they come with. The lower bolt is my main issue I guess, it doesn't look that beefy, but I may just be misled by the crapness of the system of the Trek Rig. It had a plate on the outside of the frame, so the bolts could not actually dig into the frame at all, and the inner 'slider' dig not have threads, so there was a little nut inside that and there was play in the whole system so it could shift around. A small shift can make a decent difference in chain tension. As long as there is no slipping, I am pretty excited about the frame. A singlespeed that can't maintain chain tension though is kind of worthless.

  9. #9
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    I agree about hex cap bolts though. The Dissent has 6 mm hex cap bolts and they would be hard to strip and you can get alot of torque. That smaller lower bolt looks snap-able but again I could be way off in my thoughts.

  10. #10
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    Can anyone link a picture of 2015 TransAm 29"? It doesn't appear on their website. It would be intresting to see how it is implemented near to BB area.

  11. #11
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    Yeah, where is the 29" version? Is there still zero TA29ers in existence?

  12. #12
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    I have the first gen TA29, no slippage issues when on SS, I am using Hadleys thru-axle hub.
    Si Vis Pacem, Para Bellum

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by troh View Post
    Can anyone link a picture of 2015 TransAm 29"? It doesn't appear on their website. It would be intresting to see how it is implemented near to BB area.
    Quote Originally Posted by I.V.A. View Post
    Yeah, where is the 29" version? Is there still zero TA29ers in existence?
    i think this one...

    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-brighamrupptransam1.jpg

    https://www.transitionbikes.com/2015...&StartRow=17#7

  14. #14
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    No. That's not it.

  15. #15
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    oh... you're right... it's 2014.

  16. #16
    Sir Shreds-A-Lot
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    i really want one of these, just cant decide between the 27.5 and 29
    1985 Trek 670
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  17. #17
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    I put an order in for a Green 29er frame through a dealer since they are limited right now and that's the way I had to do it. Looks like late January or early February. And yep, no pics yet, I asked when I called Transition but they are the same colors 27.5 or 29, and they were able to answer my seat tube questions regarding seat post insertion depth. Never ordered a bike unseen before but if it looks like the 27.5 I'll be happy, and I'm basing ordering it off the geometry numbers anyway and a friend has the 2014 version and Transition bikes have a good rep.

  18. #18
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    I really dig my 2014 29'r TransAm, I ordered it unseen, althjough I am jealous that the 2015 comes with a Pike.
    Quote Originally Posted by robb_dj View Post
    I put an order in for a Green 29er frame through a dealer since they are limited right now and that's the way I had to do it. Looks like late January or early February. And yep, no pics yet, I asked when I called Transition but they are the same colors 27.5 or 29, and they were able to answer my seat tube questions regarding seat post insertion depth. Never ordered a bike unseen before but if it looks like the 27.5 I'll be happy, and I'm basing ordering it off the geometry numbers anyway and a friend has the 2014 version and Transition bikes have a good rep.
    2007'ish Heckler and 2006 Chameleon
    If anyone needs the help of a prototype/custom machinist let me know.

  19. #19
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    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-transam.jpg

    This is the only "picture" of 29" version I could find. Some seattube bending going on there as expected.

  20. #20
    Robtre
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    Subscribed. Has anyone bought the 27.5 version of this bike? I kinda want it.
    -rides bikes for fun.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by robtre View Post
    Subscribed. Has anyone bought the 27.5 version of this bike? I kinda want it.
    I have one on order....but who knows when they will start shipping...
    DON'T EXTINGUISH THE STOKE.

  22. #22
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    the first "real" trans am I've seen in photo: fresh news by transition UK on Facebook



    very good, I'm waiting a Neon Green transam size M, cant wait!

  23. #23
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    Ta 29

    I have a TA 29 on order and the word from Transition is that they just arrived at the headquarters this week and should start shipping to US distributors next week as they get built.
    I can't wait to ride that whip on some SE trails. While post photos as soon as I get it in my hands.

  24. #24
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    I got a bill about my TA29 frame order with due dat Feb 25th. No sign about the frame itself, but it must be coming... ;-) No word about when my Scout will arrive. As I ordered via manfredbikes to opposite side of the globe than Transition headquarters, delivery time is bit longer than most of you are facing.

  25. #25
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    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5

    I got my large 29er frame yesterday I'll have some complete build pic's up soon


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  26. #26
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    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5




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  27. #27
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    Looks good! Next we start requesting ride report...

    My frame is at local customs and parts at my garage. Rumor says that distributor is getting customs solved at Monday.

  28. #28
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    For the win! You got the first post of a 2015 TA 29 in hand. Looks great! I can't wait for mine to arrive any day now. I went with the same metallic grey color, but w/ the factory build plus a dropper. Can't wait to hear what you think if the ride. BTW are the decals removeable if so desired or under a clear coat?

  29. #29
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    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5

    My build

    140 mm pikes
    125 mm reverb
    Race face turbine wheels
    Race face turbine clincher 30t crank
    Easton haven 50mm stem
    Easton carbon havoc bars
    Xtr cassette with one up components 42t expander sprocket
    X9 shifter and rear mech
    Hope stealth x4 black brakes
    Hope headset
    Hope bottom bracket


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Keithmck; 02-19-2015 at 12:00 PM.

  30. #30
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    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5

    Had a little blast out today. Just enough to get a feel for the bike. All I'll say is it doesn't handle or ride like a 29er. Very agile. Only issue was the rear adjustable stays kept on coming loose. All sorted with a little lock tight .


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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by rvercoe View Post
    For the win! You got the first post of a 2015 TA 29 in hand. Looks great! I can't wait for mine to arrive any day now. I went with the same metallic grey color, but w/ the factory build plus a dropper. Can't wait to hear what you think if the ride. BTW are the decals removeable if so desired or under a clear coat?
    no the decals are under the clear coat

  32. #32
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    Climbing

    Quote Originally Posted by Keithmck View Post
    Had a little blast out today. Just enough to get a feel for the bike. All I'll say is it doesn't handle or ride like a 29er. Very agile. Only issue was the rear adjustable stays kept on coming loose. All sorted with a little lock tight .


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    I'm figuring it's a blast on the twistys and the downs, but any thoughts on the climbs?

  33. #33
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    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5

    Seems good but I haven't took it up any long extended ups yet. I'll be out Sunday and I'll let you know


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  34. #34
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    Did you just go for a 140mm fork or run it past Transition first as I see the frame is designed around a 120mm?

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bunzl View Post
    Did you just go for a 140mm fork or run it past Transition first as I see the frame is designed around a 120mm?
    no i just went for it. I'm running them with 30% sag and the frame sits nice. I wont be flying 20ft through the air on this bike and i only weigh 80kg all geared up so i cant really see an issues with pushing the front end up a little.
    Last edited by Keithmck; 02-23-2015 at 04:46 AM.

  36. #36
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    Fair enough, it was more whether it does anything funny to the geometry although I suspect I am over analysing tiny angle changes.

    How are you getting on with it? Very tempted to get myself one to replace my long gone yelli screamy.

  37. #37
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    seems very agile and fun to ride.nothing like my previous 29er(orange clockwork) which was more of an xc bike. ive got the rear stays set to the min which help. its no light weight bike but haven't really noticed that as an issue

  38. #38
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    I am interested in the shortest distance from rear tire to the seat stays as this seems a bit narrow. Would be great if you coulf measure it.
    The TransAm seems perfect for me but this specific point may be a weakness....

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by tobiwan View Post
    I am interested in the shortest distance from rear tire to the seat stays as this seems a bit narrow. Would be great if you coulf measure it.
    The TransAm seems perfect for me but this specific point may be a weakness....
    The Transition site says the chainstays are 418mm at their shortest for both the 27.5 and 29.

  40. #40
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    I was told that the 2015 TA's are designed to accommodate 120-140mm forks. In my experience for every +20mm of travel on the fork it seems to decrease the head-angle 1 degree. I am taking the middle ground and building mine up with a Pike set to 130mm. I hope to have it out for a ride by Thursday and will report back with thoughts and pics.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keithmck View Post
    My build

    140 mm pikes
    125 mm reverb
    Race face turbine wheels
    Race face turbine clincher 30t crank
    Easton haven 50mm stem
    Easton carbon havoc bars
    Xtr cassette with one up components 42t expander sprocket
    X9 shifter and rear mech
    Hope stealth x4 black brakes
    Hope headset
    Hope bottom bracket


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    How do you like those RF Turbine wheels? They seem like a really solid value...

  42. #42
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    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5

    Quote Originally Posted by rvercoe View Post
    The Transition site says the chainstays are 418mm at their shortest for both the 27.5 and 29.
    Yes I know. I am talking about the closest distance of Thema rear tires to the Seat stays. This is approx 30 cm above THW bottom bracket. Thema question is which damages the rear wheel does habe to still rotate properly.

  43. #43
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    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5

    Quote Originally Posted by tobiwan View Post
    Yes I know. I am talking about the closest distance of Thema rear tires to the Seat stays. This is approx 30 cm above THW bottom bracket. Thema question is which damages the rear wheel does habe to still rotate properly.
    Sorry for the mistakes ... T9

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by dejock View Post
    How do you like those RF Turbine wheels? They seem like a really solid value...
    no issues with them so far and i got them for a killer price from crc

  45. #45
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    I just got a first quick ride on my new TA 29 and it is a blast! I expected it to rip the downs, but I am totally impressed with how well it climbs as well. I was so sure that I would need a stem longer than the stock 45mm that I preordered a 70mm to have on hand once I got the bike. Nope, the 45mm stem and 760mm low-rise bars are perfect for the longer top-tube geometry to keep the front end planted and the short chainstays keep the rear under full power whether sitting or standing on climbs. I have to earn my descents with equal parts climbing and this bike is perfection. Excellent job by Transition on nailing the GEO on the latest TransAms.

  46. #46
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    Let me brag about my new TransAm29 L-size frame looks well proportioned to my eyes.
    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-wp_20150301_12_48_44_pro.jpg
    I installed 30t Hope retainer ring (narrow wide style) and looks like clearace would not be an issue with 32t. Even 34t might fit.
    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-wp_20150226_11_30_19_pro.jpg2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-wp_20150301_12_50_17_pro.jpg2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-wp_20150301_12_50_29_pro.jpg
    Tire clearance at chainstays seems OK. I fitted 2.25" Maxxis Ardent to Ryde Trace Enduro rim (id=29mm) and there seems to be good gap between tire and chainstay.
    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-wp_20150301_12_51_45_pro.jpg
    One issue is stil pending solution. As there is Hope T-rex 40t casette extender and Shimano XT-786 deraileur, there is no space for chain to move from cog to cog. Deraileur arm for cable comes very close to casette. I'm wondering, have I installed everything correctly? Shall I shim deraileur out by adding some spacers under it, or shall I take a Dremel and grind some material out of critical place. Or shall I switch to Sram.
    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-wp_20150226_11_30_24_pro.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-wp_20150226_11_30_29_pro.jpg  

    Last edited by troh; 03-17-2015 at 12:05 AM.

  47. #47
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    Goatlink

    One issue is stil pending solution. As there is Hope T-rex 40t casette extender and Shimano XT-986 deraileur, there is no space for chain to move from cog to cog. Deraileur arm for cable comes very close to casette. I'm wondering, have I installed everything correctly? Shall I shim deraileur out by adding some spacers under it, or shall I take a Dremel and grind some material out of critical place. Or shall I switch to Sram.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I hear that this Goatlink by Wolftooth ($19) will fix that Shimano derailleur spacing problem and increase chain wrap for reduced cog wear as well.
    GoatLink ? wolftoothcomponents.com

    Otherwise, switching to SRAM will also solve the issue as they have a better angle of clearance. But that is a much more costly solution.

  48. #48
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    There is 15mm of clearance both the narrowest clearance points at the chainstay bridge and at the closest point midway up the seat tube. That is with a 2.25 nobbynick on a 23mm wide i23 rim with the chainstays set to their shortest. I think I could probably get away with a 2.4 in there without pivoting the axle back at all.

  49. #49
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    Rear wheel clearance

    Quote Originally Posted by tobiwan View Post
    Yes I know. I am talking about the closest distance of Thema rear tires to the Seat stays. This is approx 30 cm above THW bottom bracket. Thema question is which damages the rear wheel does habe to still rotate properly.
    There is 15mm of clearance both the narrowest clearance points at the chainstay bridge and at the closest point midway up the seat tube. That is with a 2.25 nobbynick on a 23mm wide i23 rim with the chainstays set to their shortest. I think I could probably get away with a 2.4 in there without pivoting the axle back at all.

  50. #50
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    Any more trouble with the dropouts slipping? I just bought the frame and built it up as a singlespeed for now. I took my bolts to 20 n/m, the lower one was making me nervous as I got close. But on my last SS I started at 18 n/m, went to 24 eventually and the shop had to warranty a wheel for me and tightened my chain up a bit while it was in (unasked) and I checked their tension by lowering it a touch and taking it back up and it was 34, but that bike had some huge bolts. I actually emailed Transition to see if they had any torque recommendations on those and they said they would and they would let me know.

    My only disappointment was I had to use a half link with my preferred gearing and what I had on hand. I went with the new Turbine Cinch cranks with a direct mount 32 narrow-wide and that won't work with a half-link I discovered, so I am using my old cranks for now with a new old stock race face SS ring that is non NW. I may end up doing a 1x10. I did tell race face they should make some non-nw direct mount rings and they said they were actually considering it. But I may find I like gears on this bike. It has a dropper and a 120 mm after all. I see now clearance issues with the tires by the way. Not even close. 2.2 Captain Control on Arch EX rims which are 21 internal. I wish I had 23 internal like my Kona but I did ding one of those WTB ST i23 rims right away, hoping it was just bad luck and not soft walls. They are a little rounded it looks like to me which could make they fold a bit easier.

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by robb_dj View Post
    Any more trouble with the dropouts slipping? I just bought the frame and built it up as a singlespeed for now. I took my bolts to 20 n/m, the lower one was making me nervous as I got close. But on my last SS I started at 18 n/m, went to 24 eventually and the shop had to warranty a wheel for me and tightened my chain up a bit while it was in (unasked) and I checked their tension by lowering it a touch and taking it back up and it was 34, but that bike had some huge bolts. I actually emailed Transition to see if they had any torque recommendations on those and they said they would and they would let me know.

    My only disappointment was I had to use a half link with my preferred gearing and what I had on hand. I went with the new Turbine Cinch cranks with a direct mount 32 narrow-wide and that won't work with a half-link I discovered, so I am using my old cranks for now with a new old stock race face SS ring that is non NW. I may end up doing a 1x10. I did tell race face they should make some non-nw direct mount rings and they said they were actually considering it. But I may find I like gears on this bike. It has a dropper and a 120 mm after all. I see now clearance issues with the tires by the way. Not even close. 2.2 Captain Control on Arch EX rims which are 21 internal. I wish I had 23 internal like my Kona but I did ding one of those WTB ST i23 rims right away, hoping it was just bad luck and not soft walls. They are a little rounded it looks like to me which could make they fold a bit easier.
    So there wasn't enough adjustment to take up the slack of a full link?

    I'm looking to start building a single speed in the next couple of months and thought this frame would be sweet for it. But if there are problems with adjustability of dropouts and dropouts slipping i might have to look elsewhere

  52. #52
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    Well Kiethmck said on his first ride his kept slipping but said loctite solved that. I had a trek rig and the dropouts never stayed put so I'm insane about that. Loctite certainly did nothing for that bike. I got a Misfit Psycles Dissent next and had no issues with that, and the dropouts have a huge range. But with this bike, I was a little nervous that I would hit the sweet spot as they didn't look to have a huge range. My gears are 32x20. It's really hilly here in Pittsburgh and gets steep and I like the ability to not be too limited where I ride. As it was, it was amazingly close without a half link with the dropouts slammed forward. I could even get the wheel in but it was just too tight. I threw my old chain on, and with a stretched out chain, it works without a half link, but I don't think running that with new chainring and cog is a great idea. I could drop down to a 19 and be ok, but this isn't the lightest bike and I don't feel like killing myself. I've never used a half-link before, and didn't want to, but I figured that would be the easiest solution and see if the dropouts hold and if I like the way the bike climbs singlespeed before I do anything more drastic. I got a Kona Process late last year and loved the geometry and how fun it was, and I see this as a really fun bike to ride in the corners and downs. I think it will climb just fine, but that's not the #1 priority or else I would have gone for a weight weenie frame. The Dissent was 4.3 lbs. It's on ebay now, just built up my TransAm this week and swapped over the wheels and some of the parts. I won't be riding for awhile, I've got an arm issue, or else I'd update you soon on the drop outs but it could be a month. Might take it to Pisgah/Dupont.

  53. #53
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    So, bottom line, since I am just outside the range on the short side, adding 2 links (a half link is 1) made it too long. I am just past half way back now.

  54. #54
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    Thanks for the info, I've been running 32x20 on my brothers SS that I've been riding so bit of a shame it doesn't play nice with that gearing as I find it works pretty well where I ride.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by troh View Post
    Let me brag about my new TransAm29 L-size frame looks well proportioned to my eyes.
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    I installed 30t Hope retainer ring (narrow wide style) and looks like clearace would not be an issue with 32t. Even 34t might fit.
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    Tire clearance at chainstays seems OK. I fitted 2.25" Maxxis Ardent to Ryde Trace Enduro rim (id=29mm) and there seems to be good gap between tire and chainstay.
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    One issue is stil pending solution. As there is Hope T-rex 40t casette extender and Shimano XT-986 deraileur, there is no space for chain to move from cog to cog. Deraileur arm for cable comes very close to casette. I'm wondering, have I installed everything correctly? Shall I shim deraileur out by adding some spacers under it, or shall I take a Dremel and grind some material out of critical place. Or shall I switch to Sram.
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    i had the same issue with the one up components 42t ring so i had change over to sram.

  56. #56
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    No slip drop-outs

    Quote Originally Posted by robb_dj View Post
    Well Kiethmck said on his first ride his kept slipping but said loctite solved that. I had a trek rig and the dropouts never stayed put so I'm insane about that. Loctite certainly did nothing for that bike. I got a Misfit Psycles Dissent next and had no issues with that, and the dropouts have a huge range. But with this bike, I was a little nervous that I would hit the sweet spot as they didn't look to have a huge range. My gears are 32x20. It's really hilly here in Pittsburgh and gets steep and I like the ability to not be too limited where I ride. As it was, it was amazingly close without a half link with the dropouts slammed forward. I could even get the wheel in but it was just too tight. I threw my old chain on, and with a stretched out chain, it works without a half link, but I don't think running that with new chainring and cog is a great idea. I could drop down to a 19 and be ok, but this isn't the lightest bike and I don't feel like killing myself. I've never used a half-link before, and didn't want to, but I figured that would be the easiest solution and see if the dropouts hold and if I like the way the bike climbs singlespeed before I do anything more drastic. I got a Kona Process late last year and loved the geometry and how fun it was, and I see this as a really fun bike to ride in the corners and downs. I think it will climb just fine, but that's not the #1 priority or else I would have gone for a weight weenie frame. The Dissent was 4.3 lbs. It's on ebay now, just built up my TransAm this week and swapped over the wheels and some of the parts. I won't be riding for awhile, I've got an arm issue, or else I'd update you soon on the drop outs but it could be a month. Might take it to Pisgah/Dupont.
    I have only a couple rides on my new TA29, but one was a sold 20+ miles with about 3,000 ft of relief. No movement at all on the drop-outs so far. I have been checking consistently, even during the longer ride. And have not noticed any movement in the bolts lossening or the pivot sliding. I will update if I do notice anything on the near future. I have a 34 mile race with 6,000 feet of climbing this weekend, that should be a good test.

  57. #57
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    This could be the one for you then.

    Quote Originally Posted by MostChillin View Post
    rvercoe - based on some of your climbing comments, you're in the hills in the SE. I, too, am in the SE but in a flatter part (central SC).

    Which brings me to my dilemma... I'm in search of a new HT and the TA29 is on the shortlist. That being said, I will never be an XC racer nor am I "enduro" (I couldn't resist). I'm a trail rider that spends 95% of my time on fast, flowy singletrack with short punchy climbs and descents - I'm looking for a really fun trail bike. I ride fairly aggressive and like to rail berms and hit the occasional jump and my rides are usually in the 1.5-3 hr range - I'm not an "all-day epic" guy...

    I just got rid of a carbon FS as I determined I prefer a HT based on how and where I ride. I have an XC aluminum HT currently (Niner EMD) and it's not the right bike for the riding I do.

    So I don't want an XC bike but I also don't want something too downhill specific as that's not my environment. Unfortunately I will not have the opportunity to ride any of the three frames/bikes I'm considering including the TA29 - the others are the ROS9 and the Pivot LES (a bit different) all with a 120mm Pike.

    So rvercoe since you are in the SE and have some time on the TA, I would appreciate your thoughts based on my comments. All other comments are welcome as well. Thanks!
    Hey "MostChillin", I am based on Athens, GA and do most of my riding in the southern Apps of Northeast GA and Southwest NC. Your description of the type of riding conditions and style pretty much matches mine, except I probably spend more time on rough primitive trails rather than flowy groomed trails. That being said, I also followed the same recent history as you of giving up my full-sus xc bike (Niner JET9) and moved from a Kona Unit w/ a 120 fork to this Transition TA29 to get more all mountain geometry fun handling. I demoed a ROS 9 on local trails and that is what convinced me that the new all mtn hardtail type bikes were meant for me. So, I narrowed my search to the ROS 9, Kona Honzo, and Trans Am amongst others.
    All that being said, the TransAm feels perfecto for the task at hand. It is a heavy beast, but all of those bikes are unless you go aluminum like the (Canfield Yelli Screamy) which is too harsh for my tastes, or Titanium which I can't afford. The TransAm climbs incredibly well (better than my previous XC bikes in fact), and it is far superior on the descents. The stuff in between, like flat, flowy, rolling, and twisty terrain is just a hell of a lot more fun on this bike. It may or may not be faster on that stuff, but it is way more entertaining. So, give-up your XC ways and follow the path to SE trail happiness on any of those All Mtn hardtails with the TransAm at the top of the list for Bang-for-the-buck performance. Oh yeah, and did I mention the joy of not having to worry about rear-end linkages, pivots, and shocks getting all crudded-up and blown-out with the damp gritty conditions of the SE? It is greate to ride a legit all mtn machine and put it away for the next ride with out worrying about all those extra delicate bits. Let me know what you end up with.
    Since you know the area, I'll be riding mine on the Pinhoti Trails at the Snake Creek Gap Race this Saturday which is pretty much the epitome of Southern Apps riding.

  58. #58
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    Christmas in March

    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-cimg7053.jpg

    Btw: What are the weights of your builds?

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    Quote Originally Posted by tobiwan View Post
    Btw: What are the weights of your builds?
    12.7kg if I recall right.

    TA29 size L, 1x10 transmission, XT brakes, Ryde Trace Enduro wheels with Ardents, etc.

  60. #60
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    That sounds good.
    I would love to stay below 13kg but I also have to look for the money. So letīs see where it ends.

    I was wondering what the two screws above the two bottle cage screws on the down tube are for? Any thoughts? I am not a newbie but I do have no clue what I shall mount there?

  61. #61
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    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5

    They are for routing the stealth dropper cable


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    Last edited by Keithmck; 03-09-2015 at 08:32 AM.

  62. #62
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    Yupp, makes sense

  63. #63
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    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5

    Did your frame come with 4 p clips ?


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    I think so. I hope to build it up coming weekend ...

  65. #65
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    Weight and clearance

    Quote Originally Posted by tobiwan View Post
    Christmas in March

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    Btw: What are the weights of your builds?
    I used my house scale to get a rough weight on the bike and I am solidly at around 32lbs. Heavy beast! This is with the stock build (see Transition web page for full specs), plus a Reverb Stealth dropper post, and an Ardent 2.4 tire on the rear instead of the NN 2.25 (tires set-up tubeless). This bike does not show its weight on the trail though. It feels very agile, flickable, and climbs like mtn goat.
    On the topic of rear wheel clearance, I have no issues running the 2.4 tire on the rear. There appears to be about the same amount of space between chainstays, bottom bracket and seattube areas as with the 2.25. I estimate about 15mm at all those points. This is with the rear drop-outs in their shortest chain-stay setting. It appears that the lower arc of the seat-tube near the bottom bracket and the flattened section of chainstay on the driveside BB junction all help to maximize clearance in the tight spots.

  66. #66
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    Hey Guys, just a short update about my TransAm.

    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-trans-am-im-aufbau.jpg

    Like shown here it weights 27,9lbs.

    Due to an oval (not round like it should be) rear derailleur screw thread my build will take some more time... Hope to get this solved soon.

  67. #67
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    The new ride

    Here are a couple shots of my TA. It is the factory build plus a few extras like the Reverb Stealth dropper, Wolf Tooth 40t cog, Chromag DT saddle, and an Ardent 2.4 on the rear. I included a couple shots of the clearance with the 2.4 with chainstays set to shortest setting. Still an acceptable amount of clearance all the way around. That 2.4 sure smooths out the trail on the rear compared to the NN 2.25.2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-ta1.jpg2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-ta2.jpg2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-taclearance.jpg2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-taclearance2.jpg

  68. #68
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    New 2015 Trans Am video. I have to say the metallic looks pretty sweet here. I went with the green, which to me looks a little different than the green on the site but it's cool nonetheless.

    https://vimeo.com/album/2407720/video/120024398

  69. #69
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    Very cool Video even if I would never ride a SS - probably because I am not strong enough.

    So guys, short review from my first ride - nothing more than just AMAZING!!!

    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-transition-transam-29.jpg

    I am 5 feet 10 inches and the L-frame fits perfectly in combination with a 35mm steem. Weight is 29,7 pounds.

    Thatīs it - have to go for a ride again

  70. #70
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    As someone who has theirs set up SS at the moment (yet to be ridden, pending an injury) it's nice to see the designer riding SS, meaning it was designed to be able to be ridden that way equally as well as geared, versus an option that may or may not work that great.

  71. #71
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    So, today also the chainstay screws were open and after some drifts the rear wheel sat very strange. I fixed it during the ride and at home it got reinstalled with loctite. I am pretty confident that this will work for a longer time.

  72. #72
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    What do you mean by open? Were they loose if you tried to turn them with your fingers? I assume you mean the bolts that are perpendicular to the frame (2 per side) that hold the dropouts, versus what I call the set screws that go through the frame and run parellel to the tubes. In my opinion, you have to get those bolts pretty tight, tighter than you can get with a small tool (multi-tool, little L allen) and need something with leverage or a torque wrench. I'm wondering really if it's that the people with trouble just aren't go very tight. I think 15-20 n/m at least.

  73. #73
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    I totally agree

  74. #74
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    I also had an dropout sliding issue at my first ride. I tightened dopout bolts with multitool as tight as I can and then at home retightened them with proper tool. Since then, I have had no issues.

    I have lost one of those adjusting screws. I replaced them with short screws and added blue Loctite as I'm not going to go single speed. I rather like 1x10. When building bike, there was an issut with Shimano XT 786 deraileur and 40t extender cog causing chain to hit derailerus when changing gears. Goatlink would have solved the issue, but since delivery time would have been looong, I took a Dremel with a grinding disc and did the fix: https://youtu.be/LUl_0SZdUig?t=2m30s

    Since then there has been no issues. As snow is melting away and rocks and roots become visible, trails are becoming not so smooth. Thus I start to recall, why rear suspension would be nice.

  75. #75
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    Hey Tero,
    sooner or later we both have to drink a beer together- why? I just saw your videos and hey - you are also coming from an Marley? I do have the same frame in the same colour with an comparable build.
    Two bike enthusiastics with the same ideas... but I do have more hair

  76. #76
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    Ragley Marley were a harsh ride compared to TransAm. Maybe it is tire size, or maybe it is the steel frame that makes TransAm ride much better. For this kind of bike, all the changes from Marley to TransAm is serving the purpose.

    Southern Germany and having a beer. How could it work? I have been in Ulm in October couple of years ago and stayed at hotel next to railwaystation. Those people coming from Munich by night train... ;-) And having more hair than me is not a big achievement.

  77. #77
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    Ok, so I have to admit that after a month and a half of riding I did have to do a drop-out re-adjustment. The left drop-out slid back back a bit causing the wheel to be a bit out of alignment with the chainstays. I just had to loosen both sides, re-center the wheel with the drop-outs and tighten them back down. This is the first and hopefully the last reset, but it is a flag to keep an eye on the drop-outs sliding as others have mentioned on this post. Here in the Southeastern US I hit alot of roots and rocks, many of which are at angles that really grab and twist/tweek the wheel on impact. This can be a problem for any sliding drop-out design. I will update if this becomes a chronic issue.

  78. #78
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    Anybody have updates on the recommended torque ratings from Transition on the drop-out bolts?

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by MostChillin View Post
    Hopefully the Transition guys can chime in on this thread with the proper setup/torque so that everyone has access to the info. Or if you get it directly, can you please post?...
    Hey MostChillin, Maybe you could put this question out on the latest forum on Transition Availabilty since the Transition crew seems to be monitoring that regularly. I don't know if they are seeing this forum.

    Cheers,

  80. #80
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    I told Blake at Transition a couple of days ago about the issues on the thread (by my count, it's 4 of 4 people), and actually asked them about a torque recommendation at least a month ago. He originally said its on the way, then sent me a link on torque but it was only for the full suspension bikes. I followed up, telling him why I thought it was important and mentioning the issues reported here, and he came back saying they don't give a torque for the Trans Am dropouts and said just snug em up and go ride. I followed up again saying, well maybe those guys are all incompetent (I didn't mean it, just trying to make a point) but I'm going on what I see. I also implied it would be pretty easy to just check what the designer set his at for his video, but it seems like they don't want to give a value. It's frustrating to be honest, because before I bought the bike, I expressly asked them if they could reassure me that the dropouts would not slip. I have a nerve injury in my arm so can't ride yet, but I am prepared to love the bike, but I have to say I am concerned. They aren't that big of a company. Rather than just whip off an off-the-cuff answer, it would be nice to confer with the designer and provide it.
    Last edited by robb_dj; 03-26-2015 at 02:54 PM.

  81. #81
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    By the way, I picked up a couple 4 mm nuts for the set screws to tighten them down against the frame like you see on most singlespeeds so I don't lose mine like Troh did. The Rig had that at least. I tightened the set screws against the drop out and then screwed a nut on so it would not come loose. It shouldn't.

  82. #82
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    Also, I took mine to 20 n/m without issue but like I mentioned it will be awhile before I can test it.

  83. #83
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    Hey guys, just wanted to chime in. I have one of the new Trans Am 27.5's set up as a single and have had ZERO issues with drop outs.

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by SATANRULES View Post
    Hey guys, just wanted to chime in. I have one of the new Trans Am 27.5's set up as a single and have had ZERO issues with drop outs.
    That's awesome satan. Any tips? Loctite, how tight etc? I'm guessing you got to go tighter. I did not use loctite on my last SS with no issues.

  85. #85
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    I only had an issue with dropout sliding at my first ride. I tighted bolts as tights as I could with a small multitool. At home I checked the boltd and tightened them to ... a lot on NM. I only have 2-20nm torque wrench which I didn't bother to use this time. Since then, no issues.

    Yesterday we were riging our normal weekly group ride. Route was followin ridgetops and southern sides to avoid excess ice. Thus we face rockgardens and swampy (frozen) lake shores with high roots etc. TransAm feels very fast on those technical sections. An no dropout sliding. I'm not weatherwieght nor clydesdale. I try to ride gently, but when technical section must be cleared fast...

  86. #86
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    Same for me. I only had the problem with the sliding dropout where I was really hard hitting some corners during my first ride. At home I put some loctite on all screws and retighted the bolts. Since then I had no issues. If you get a new frame I would check first the screws. Seems like this was not done properly on the first production frames - but to be honest thatīs no issue.

  87. #87
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    I think there are a few steps that will solve issues that people might be having. First off I did apply a generous amount of loctite to all of the bolts, including the tensioning screws. I also added washers to the lower bolts on the drops. I then installed everything including the rear wheel. I tightened the tensioning screws to get proper chain tension, then tightened the two sets of bolts on the drop outs. I cranked them down very tight. Sorry didn't use a torque wrench, I did use common sense. I've been working in a shop for quite a few years. This next step is what I think people might be missing. After tightening the drop out bolts I went back and cranked the tensioner screws again. Like I said I've had zero issues and have checked the bolts many times. Nothing has moved, hope this helps.

  88. #88
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    Does anyone know if there would be clearance for 650b+ tires or 650b 2.8 trailblazers?

  89. #89
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    Speaking of washers, I can't remember the exact name but there are washers that have little star points that can dig into the frame and also prevent sliding if it comes to that.

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    This came from a review of my old singlespeed. I personally have never used them, but I googled knurled lock washer and a few different varieties came up.

    "The sliders never slipped on me at all. The washer was smooth so if someone were to get some slipping a knurled washer would for sure stop that. "

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    21psi

    Quote Originally Posted by MostChillin View Post
    rvercoe - what pressure are you running with the Ardent 2.4 in the rear and have you experienced any rubbing since you posted these pictures? I would like to run a 2.35 Ikon in the rear but am worried about rubbing as I'm no lightweight. Thanks.
    I'm running 21psi as the sweet spot right now at my 170lb rider weight. I find the Ardent to have good strong sidewalls so I haven't really had rim hit or burbing issues like I have with some Schwalbe's or other tires.

  92. #92
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    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-trans-am-1.jpg2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-trans-am-2.jpg2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-trans-am-3.jpg

    Hope this helps you guys out with some of the questions. I used small wave washers on the lower bolt. It's almost like they bend into the drops. I am sure the star type washer would work well also. As far as clearance is concerned. I'm running a NW Raceface 32 ring with a Surly 17 tooth cog, with an Icon 2.35 on a Nox AM rim. Plenty of room. Again hope this helps.

  93. #93
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    Washers installed with new locktite


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    Changed out the tensioning screws too, Satan, from the looks of it.

    By the way, I looked at the picture on Trans Am website that has a closeup of the dropout, and does it look to anyone else like the bottom bolt has a small washer with star points under it? It's hard to see, but it looks like there are little points sticking out from under the bolt.

    http://www.transitionbikes.com/2015/..._TransAM_3.jpg

  95. #95
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    I did replace the screws. They are torx t-15's out of a Speedplay rebuild kit. Robb-dj personally I'm not seeing the star washers in the link. Looks more like missing paint, like on mine.

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    You are probably right. I took the bike around the block just to get on it, I have a messed up nerve in my arm and I'm not really supposed to yet, but I got this new bike and it's killing me. It's no excuse for a real ride, but it made me happy nonetheless.

    For people who are using a torque wrench, I will say I took mine safely up to 20 n/m, but I would not recommend going any higher. I think they will be perfectly fine at that level, and probably a little less too. My lower bolts dug into the frame a bit I believe, which will probably aid in them staying put. Like a mm, nothing crazy. If you put washers on like keithmck, that would probably be minimized since it's over a greater surface area, but it may not be a bad thing as far as them staying put. Even washers dig into the frame a little as they did on my old singlespeed.

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    I'm kind of highjacking this post, but does anyone know where I can buy the new 2015 neon frame 27.5 (size small) online? No dealers close to me at all.

    Thanks

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    You can order straight from Transition but you might have to get in line behind dealers. Also, there were no dealers near me, but I had called Transition to order direct, they said it would be faster if I went through a shop, and although there were no official dealers close to me they had 'an account' with a couple local shops.

  99. #99
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    What sizes are you guys going for? Size for size this looks a bit shorter than the Smuggler and Scouts, which I'd be bang on a large, concerned the reach on the Transam L might be a bit shorter than I'd prefer, but sizing up with a shorter stem might be a bit OTT. Trying for size ain't an option

  100. #100
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    I personally went with a large Trans Am and a large Scout. Haven't built the Scout yet but the Trans is spot on for me 5'10" with a 32 inseam.

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