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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by robb_dj View Post
    Any more trouble with the dropouts slipping? I just bought the frame and built it up as a singlespeed for now. I took my bolts to 20 n/m, the lower one was making me nervous as I got close. But on my last SS I started at 18 n/m, went to 24 eventually and the shop had to warranty a wheel for me and tightened my chain up a bit while it was in (unasked) and I checked their tension by lowering it a touch and taking it back up and it was 34, but that bike had some huge bolts. I actually emailed Transition to see if they had any torque recommendations on those and they said they would and they would let me know.

    My only disappointment was I had to use a half link with my preferred gearing and what I had on hand. I went with the new Turbine Cinch cranks with a direct mount 32 narrow-wide and that won't work with a half-link I discovered, so I am using my old cranks for now with a new old stock race face SS ring that is non NW. I may end up doing a 1x10. I did tell race face they should make some non-nw direct mount rings and they said they were actually considering it. But I may find I like gears on this bike. It has a dropper and a 120 mm after all. I see now clearance issues with the tires by the way. Not even close. 2.2 Captain Control on Arch EX rims which are 21 internal. I wish I had 23 internal like my Kona but I did ding one of those WTB ST i23 rims right away, hoping it was just bad luck and not soft walls. They are a little rounded it looks like to me which could make they fold a bit easier.
    So there wasn't enough adjustment to take up the slack of a full link?

    I'm looking to start building a single speed in the next couple of months and thought this frame would be sweet for it. But if there are problems with adjustability of dropouts and dropouts slipping i might have to look elsewhere

  2. #52
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    Well Kiethmck said on his first ride his kept slipping but said loctite solved that. I had a trek rig and the dropouts never stayed put so I'm insane about that. Loctite certainly did nothing for that bike. I got a Misfit Psycles Dissent next and had no issues with that, and the dropouts have a huge range. But with this bike, I was a little nervous that I would hit the sweet spot as they didn't look to have a huge range. My gears are 32x20. It's really hilly here in Pittsburgh and gets steep and I like the ability to not be too limited where I ride. As it was, it was amazingly close without a half link with the dropouts slammed forward. I could even get the wheel in but it was just too tight. I threw my old chain on, and with a stretched out chain, it works without a half link, but I don't think running that with new chainring and cog is a great idea. I could drop down to a 19 and be ok, but this isn't the lightest bike and I don't feel like killing myself. I've never used a half-link before, and didn't want to, but I figured that would be the easiest solution and see if the dropouts hold and if I like the way the bike climbs singlespeed before I do anything more drastic. I got a Kona Process late last year and loved the geometry and how fun it was, and I see this as a really fun bike to ride in the corners and downs. I think it will climb just fine, but that's not the #1 priority or else I would have gone for a weight weenie frame. The Dissent was 4.3 lbs. It's on ebay now, just built up my TransAm this week and swapped over the wheels and some of the parts. I won't be riding for awhile, I've got an arm issue, or else I'd update you soon on the drop outs but it could be a month. Might take it to Pisgah/Dupont.

  3. #53
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    So, bottom line, since I am just outside the range on the short side, adding 2 links (a half link is 1) made it too long. I am just past half way back now.

  4. #54
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    Thanks for the info, I've been running 32x20 on my brothers SS that I've been riding so bit of a shame it doesn't play nice with that gearing as I find it works pretty well where I ride.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by troh View Post
    Let me brag about my new TransAm29 L-size frame looks well proportioned to my eyes.
    Attachment 968644
    I installed 30t Hope retainer ring (narrow wide style) and looks like clearace would not be an issue with 32t. Even 34t might fit.
    Attachment 968641Attachment 968645Attachment 968646
    Tire clearance at chainstays seems OK. I fitted 2.25" Maxxis Ardent to Ryde Trace Enduro rim (id=29mm) and there seems to be good gap between tire and chainstay.
    Attachment 968647
    One issue is stil pending solution. As there is Hope T-rex 40t casette extender and Shimano XT-986 deraileur, there is no space for chain to move from cog to cog. Deraileur arm for cable comes very close to casette. I'm wondering, have I installed everything correctly? Shall I shim deraileur out by adding some spacers under it, or shall I take a Dremel and grind some material out of critical place. Or shall I switch to Sram.
    Attachment 968642
    i had the same issue with the one up components 42t ring so i had change over to sram.

  6. #56
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    No slip drop-outs

    Quote Originally Posted by robb_dj View Post
    Well Kiethmck said on his first ride his kept slipping but said loctite solved that. I had a trek rig and the dropouts never stayed put so I'm insane about that. Loctite certainly did nothing for that bike. I got a Misfit Psycles Dissent next and had no issues with that, and the dropouts have a huge range. But with this bike, I was a little nervous that I would hit the sweet spot as they didn't look to have a huge range. My gears are 32x20. It's really hilly here in Pittsburgh and gets steep and I like the ability to not be too limited where I ride. As it was, it was amazingly close without a half link with the dropouts slammed forward. I could even get the wheel in but it was just too tight. I threw my old chain on, and with a stretched out chain, it works without a half link, but I don't think running that with new chainring and cog is a great idea. I could drop down to a 19 and be ok, but this isn't the lightest bike and I don't feel like killing myself. I've never used a half-link before, and didn't want to, but I figured that would be the easiest solution and see if the dropouts hold and if I like the way the bike climbs singlespeed before I do anything more drastic. I got a Kona Process late last year and loved the geometry and how fun it was, and I see this as a really fun bike to ride in the corners and downs. I think it will climb just fine, but that's not the #1 priority or else I would have gone for a weight weenie frame. The Dissent was 4.3 lbs. It's on ebay now, just built up my TransAm this week and swapped over the wheels and some of the parts. I won't be riding for awhile, I've got an arm issue, or else I'd update you soon on the drop outs but it could be a month. Might take it to Pisgah/Dupont.
    I have only a couple rides on my new TA29, but one was a sold 20+ miles with about 3,000 ft of relief. No movement at all on the drop-outs so far. I have been checking consistently, even during the longer ride. And have not noticed any movement in the bolts lossening or the pivot sliding. I will update if I do notice anything on the near future. I have a 34 mile race with 6,000 feet of climbing this weekend, that should be a good test.

  7. #57
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    This could be the one for you then.

    Quote Originally Posted by MostChillin View Post
    rvercoe - based on some of your climbing comments, you're in the hills in the SE. I, too, am in the SE but in a flatter part (central SC).

    Which brings me to my dilemma... I'm in search of a new HT and the TA29 is on the shortlist. That being said, I will never be an XC racer nor am I "enduro" (I couldn't resist). I'm a trail rider that spends 95% of my time on fast, flowy singletrack with short punchy climbs and descents - I'm looking for a really fun trail bike. I ride fairly aggressive and like to rail berms and hit the occasional jump and my rides are usually in the 1.5-3 hr range - I'm not an "all-day epic" guy...

    I just got rid of a carbon FS as I determined I prefer a HT based on how and where I ride. I have an XC aluminum HT currently (Niner EMD) and it's not the right bike for the riding I do.

    So I don't want an XC bike but I also don't want something too downhill specific as that's not my environment. Unfortunately I will not have the opportunity to ride any of the three frames/bikes I'm considering including the TA29 - the others are the ROS9 and the Pivot LES (a bit different) all with a 120mm Pike.

    So rvercoe since you are in the SE and have some time on the TA, I would appreciate your thoughts based on my comments. All other comments are welcome as well. Thanks!
    Hey "MostChillin", I am based on Athens, GA and do most of my riding in the southern Apps of Northeast GA and Southwest NC. Your description of the type of riding conditions and style pretty much matches mine, except I probably spend more time on rough primitive trails rather than flowy groomed trails. That being said, I also followed the same recent history as you of giving up my full-sus xc bike (Niner JET9) and moved from a Kona Unit w/ a 120 fork to this Transition TA29 to get more all mountain geometry fun handling. I demoed a ROS 9 on local trails and that is what convinced me that the new all mtn hardtail type bikes were meant for me. So, I narrowed my search to the ROS 9, Kona Honzo, and Trans Am amongst others.
    All that being said, the TransAm feels perfecto for the task at hand. It is a heavy beast, but all of those bikes are unless you go aluminum like the (Canfield Yelli Screamy) which is too harsh for my tastes, or Titanium which I can't afford. The TransAm climbs incredibly well (better than my previous XC bikes in fact), and it is far superior on the descents. The stuff in between, like flat, flowy, rolling, and twisty terrain is just a hell of a lot more fun on this bike. It may or may not be faster on that stuff, but it is way more entertaining. So, give-up your XC ways and follow the path to SE trail happiness on any of those All Mtn hardtails with the TransAm at the top of the list for Bang-for-the-buck performance. Oh yeah, and did I mention the joy of not having to worry about rear-end linkages, pivots, and shocks getting all crudded-up and blown-out with the damp gritty conditions of the SE? It is greate to ride a legit all mtn machine and put it away for the next ride with out worrying about all those extra delicate bits. Let me know what you end up with.
    Since you know the area, I'll be riding mine on the Pinhoti Trails at the Snake Creek Gap Race this Saturday which is pretty much the epitome of Southern Apps riding.

  8. #58
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    Christmas in March

    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-cimg7053.jpg

    Btw: What are the weights of your builds?

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by tobiwan View Post
    Btw: What are the weights of your builds?
    12.7kg if I recall right.

    TA29 size L, 1x10 transmission, XT brakes, Ryde Trace Enduro wheels with Ardents, etc.

  10. #60
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    That sounds good.
    I would love to stay below 13kg but I also have to look for the money. So letīs see where it ends.

    I was wondering what the two screws above the two bottle cage screws on the down tube are for? Any thoughts? I am not a newbie but I do have no clue what I shall mount there?

  11. #61
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    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5

    They are for routing the stealth dropper cable


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    Last edited by Keithmck; 03-09-2015 at 08:32 AM.

  12. #62
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    Yupp, makes sense

  13. #63
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    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5

    Did your frame come with 4 p clips ?


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  14. #64
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    I think so. I hope to build it up coming weekend ...

  15. #65
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    Weight and clearance

    Quote Originally Posted by tobiwan View Post
    Christmas in March

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	CIMG7053.jpg 
Views:	249 
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ID:	970869

    Btw: What are the weights of your builds?
    I used my house scale to get a rough weight on the bike and I am solidly at around 32lbs. Heavy beast! This is with the stock build (see Transition web page for full specs), plus a Reverb Stealth dropper post, and an Ardent 2.4 tire on the rear instead of the NN 2.25 (tires set-up tubeless). This bike does not show its weight on the trail though. It feels very agile, flickable, and climbs like mtn goat.
    On the topic of rear wheel clearance, I have no issues running the 2.4 tire on the rear. There appears to be about the same amount of space between chainstays, bottom bracket and seattube areas as with the 2.25. I estimate about 15mm at all those points. This is with the rear drop-outs in their shortest chain-stay setting. It appears that the lower arc of the seat-tube near the bottom bracket and the flattened section of chainstay on the driveside BB junction all help to maximize clearance in the tight spots.

  16. #66
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    Hey Guys, just a short update about my TransAm.

    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-trans-am-im-aufbau.jpg

    Like shown here it weights 27,9lbs.

    Due to an oval (not round like it should be) rear derailleur screw thread my build will take some more time... Hope to get this solved soon.

  17. #67
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    The new ride

    Here are a couple shots of my TA. It is the factory build plus a few extras like the Reverb Stealth dropper, Wolf Tooth 40t cog, Chromag DT saddle, and an Ardent 2.4 on the rear. I included a couple shots of the clearance with the 2.4 with chainstays set to shortest setting. Still an acceptable amount of clearance all the way around. That 2.4 sure smooths out the trail on the rear compared to the NN 2.25.2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-ta1.jpg2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-ta2.jpg2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-taclearance.jpg2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-taclearance2.jpg

  18. #68
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    New 2015 Trans Am video. I have to say the metallic looks pretty sweet here. I went with the green, which to me looks a little different than the green on the site but it's cool nonetheless.

    https://vimeo.com/album/2407720/video/120024398

  19. #69
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    Very cool Video even if I would never ride a SS - probably because I am not strong enough.

    So guys, short review from my first ride - nothing more than just AMAZING!!!

    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-transition-transam-29.jpg

    I am 5 feet 10 inches and the L-frame fits perfectly in combination with a 35mm steem. Weight is 29,7 pounds.

    Thatīs it - have to go for a ride again

  20. #70
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    As someone who has theirs set up SS at the moment (yet to be ridden, pending an injury) it's nice to see the designer riding SS, meaning it was designed to be able to be ridden that way equally as well as geared, versus an option that may or may not work that great.

  21. #71
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    So, today also the chainstay screws were open and after some drifts the rear wheel sat very strange. I fixed it during the ride and at home it got reinstalled with loctite. I am pretty confident that this will work for a longer time.

  22. #72
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    What do you mean by open? Were they loose if you tried to turn them with your fingers? I assume you mean the bolts that are perpendicular to the frame (2 per side) that hold the dropouts, versus what I call the set screws that go through the frame and run parellel to the tubes. In my opinion, you have to get those bolts pretty tight, tighter than you can get with a small tool (multi-tool, little L allen) and need something with leverage or a torque wrench. I'm wondering really if it's that the people with trouble just aren't go very tight. I think 15-20 n/m at least.

  23. #73
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    I totally agree

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    I also had an dropout sliding issue at my first ride. I tightened dopout bolts with multitool as tight as I can and then at home retightened them with proper tool. Since then, I have had no issues.

    I have lost one of those adjusting screws. I replaced them with short screws and added blue Loctite as I'm not going to go single speed. I rather like 1x10. When building bike, there was an issut with Shimano XT 786 deraileur and 40t extender cog causing chain to hit derailerus when changing gears. Goatlink would have solved the issue, but since delivery time would have been looong, I took a Dremel with a grinding disc and did the fix: https://youtu.be/LUl_0SZdUig?t=2m30s

    Since then there has been no issues. As snow is melting away and rocks and roots become visible, trails are becoming not so smooth. Thus I start to recall, why rear suspension would be nice.

  25. #75
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    Hey Tero,
    sooner or later we both have to drink a beer together- why? I just saw your videos and hey - you are also coming from an Marley? I do have the same frame in the same colour with an comparable build.
    Two bike enthusiastics with the same ideas... but I do have more hair

  26. #76
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    Ragley Marley were a harsh ride compared to TransAm. Maybe it is tire size, or maybe it is the steel frame that makes TransAm ride much better. For this kind of bike, all the changes from Marley to TransAm is serving the purpose.

    Southern Germany and having a beer. How could it work? I have been in Ulm in October couple of years ago and stayed at hotel next to railwaystation. Those people coming from Munich by night train... ;-) And having more hair than me is not a big achievement.

  27. #77
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    Ok, so I have to admit that after a month and a half of riding I did have to do a drop-out re-adjustment. The left drop-out slid back back a bit causing the wheel to be a bit out of alignment with the chainstays. I just had to loosen both sides, re-center the wheel with the drop-outs and tighten them back down. This is the first and hopefully the last reset, but it is a flag to keep an eye on the drop-outs sliding as others have mentioned on this post. Here in the Southeastern US I hit alot of roots and rocks, many of which are at angles that really grab and twist/tweek the wheel on impact. This can be a problem for any sliding drop-out design. I will update if this becomes a chronic issue.

  28. #78
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    Anybody have updates on the recommended torque ratings from Transition on the drop-out bolts?

  29. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by MostChillin View Post
    Hopefully the Transition guys can chime in on this thread with the proper setup/torque so that everyone has access to the info. Or if you get it directly, can you please post?...
    Hey MostChillin, Maybe you could put this question out on the latest forum on Transition Availabilty since the Transition crew seems to be monitoring that regularly. I don't know if they are seeing this forum.

    Cheers,

  30. #80
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    I told Blake at Transition a couple of days ago about the issues on the thread (by my count, it's 4 of 4 people), and actually asked them about a torque recommendation at least a month ago. He originally said its on the way, then sent me a link on torque but it was only for the full suspension bikes. I followed up, telling him why I thought it was important and mentioning the issues reported here, and he came back saying they don't give a torque for the Trans Am dropouts and said just snug em up and go ride. I followed up again saying, well maybe those guys are all incompetent (I didn't mean it, just trying to make a point) but I'm going on what I see. I also implied it would be pretty easy to just check what the designer set his at for his video, but it seems like they don't want to give a value. It's frustrating to be honest, because before I bought the bike, I expressly asked them if they could reassure me that the dropouts would not slip. I have a nerve injury in my arm so can't ride yet, but I am prepared to love the bike, but I have to say I am concerned. They aren't that big of a company. Rather than just whip off an off-the-cuff answer, it would be nice to confer with the designer and provide it.
    Last edited by robb_dj; 03-26-2015 at 02:54 PM.

  31. #81
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    By the way, I picked up a couple 4 mm nuts for the set screws to tighten them down against the frame like you see on most singlespeeds so I don't lose mine like Troh did. The Rig had that at least. I tightened the set screws against the drop out and then screwed a nut on so it would not come loose. It shouldn't.

  32. #82
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    Also, I took mine to 20 n/m without issue but like I mentioned it will be awhile before I can test it.

  33. #83
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    Hey guys, just wanted to chime in. I have one of the new Trans Am 27.5's set up as a single and have had ZERO issues with drop outs.

  34. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by SATANRULES View Post
    Hey guys, just wanted to chime in. I have one of the new Trans Am 27.5's set up as a single and have had ZERO issues with drop outs.
    That's awesome satan. Any tips? Loctite, how tight etc? I'm guessing you got to go tighter. I did not use loctite on my last SS with no issues.

  35. #85
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    I only had an issue with dropout sliding at my first ride. I tighted bolts as tights as I could with a small multitool. At home I checked the boltd and tightened them to ... a lot on NM. I only have 2-20nm torque wrench which I didn't bother to use this time. Since then, no issues.

    Yesterday we were riging our normal weekly group ride. Route was followin ridgetops and southern sides to avoid excess ice. Thus we face rockgardens and swampy (frozen) lake shores with high roots etc. TransAm feels very fast on those technical sections. An no dropout sliding. I'm not weatherwieght nor clydesdale. I try to ride gently, but when technical section must be cleared fast...

  36. #86
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    Same for me. I only had the problem with the sliding dropout where I was really hard hitting some corners during my first ride. At home I put some loctite on all screws and retighted the bolts. Since then I had no issues. If you get a new frame I would check first the screws. Seems like this was not done properly on the first production frames - but to be honest thatīs no issue.

  37. #87
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    I think there are a few steps that will solve issues that people might be having. First off I did apply a generous amount of loctite to all of the bolts, including the tensioning screws. I also added washers to the lower bolts on the drops. I then installed everything including the rear wheel. I tightened the tensioning screws to get proper chain tension, then tightened the two sets of bolts on the drop outs. I cranked them down very tight. Sorry didn't use a torque wrench, I did use common sense. I've been working in a shop for quite a few years. This next step is what I think people might be missing. After tightening the drop out bolts I went back and cranked the tensioner screws again. Like I said I've had zero issues and have checked the bolts many times. Nothing has moved, hope this helps.

  38. #88
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    Does anyone know if there would be clearance for 650b+ tires or 650b 2.8 trailblazers?

  39. #89
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    Speaking of washers, I can't remember the exact name but there are washers that have little star points that can dig into the frame and also prevent sliding if it comes to that.

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    This came from a review of my old singlespeed. I personally have never used them, but I googled knurled lock washer and a few different varieties came up.

    "The sliders never slipped on me at all. The washer was smooth so if someone were to get some slipping a knurled washer would for sure stop that. "

  41. #91
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    21psi

    Quote Originally Posted by MostChillin View Post
    rvercoe - what pressure are you running with the Ardent 2.4 in the rear and have you experienced any rubbing since you posted these pictures? I would like to run a 2.35 Ikon in the rear but am worried about rubbing as I'm no lightweight. Thanks.
    I'm running 21psi as the sweet spot right now at my 170lb rider weight. I find the Ardent to have good strong sidewalls so I haven't really had rim hit or burbing issues like I have with some Schwalbe's or other tires.

  42. #92
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    2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-trans-am-1.jpg2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-trans-am-2.jpg2015 Trans Am 29...and 27.5-trans-am-3.jpg

    Hope this helps you guys out with some of the questions. I used small wave washers on the lower bolt. It's almost like they bend into the drops. I am sure the star type washer would work well also. As far as clearance is concerned. I'm running a NW Raceface 32 ring with a Surly 17 tooth cog, with an Icon 2.35 on a Nox AM rim. Plenty of room. Again hope this helps.

  43. #93
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    Washers installed with new locktite


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    Changed out the tensioning screws too, Satan, from the looks of it.

    By the way, I looked at the picture on Trans Am website that has a closeup of the dropout, and does it look to anyone else like the bottom bolt has a small washer with star points under it? It's hard to see, but it looks like there are little points sticking out from under the bolt.

    http://www.transitionbikes.com/2015/..._TransAM_3.jpg

  45. #95
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    I did replace the screws. They are torx t-15's out of a Speedplay rebuild kit. Robb-dj personally I'm not seeing the star washers in the link. Looks more like missing paint, like on mine.

  46. #96
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    You are probably right. I took the bike around the block just to get on it, I have a messed up nerve in my arm and I'm not really supposed to yet, but I got this new bike and it's killing me. It's no excuse for a real ride, but it made me happy nonetheless.

    For people who are using a torque wrench, I will say I took mine safely up to 20 n/m, but I would not recommend going any higher. I think they will be perfectly fine at that level, and probably a little less too. My lower bolts dug into the frame a bit I believe, which will probably aid in them staying put. Like a mm, nothing crazy. If you put washers on like keithmck, that would probably be minimized since it's over a greater surface area, but it may not be a bad thing as far as them staying put. Even washers dig into the frame a little as they did on my old singlespeed.

  47. #97
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    I'm kind of highjacking this post, but does anyone know where I can buy the new 2015 neon frame 27.5 (size small) online? No dealers close to me at all.

    Thanks

  48. #98
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    You can order straight from Transition but you might have to get in line behind dealers. Also, there were no dealers near me, but I had called Transition to order direct, they said it would be faster if I went through a shop, and although there were no official dealers close to me they had 'an account' with a couple local shops.

  49. #99
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    What sizes are you guys going for? Size for size this looks a bit shorter than the Smuggler and Scouts, which I'd be bang on a large, concerned the reach on the Transam L might be a bit shorter than I'd prefer, but sizing up with a shorter stem might be a bit OTT. Trying for size ain't an option

  50. #100
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    I personally went with a large Trans Am and a large Scout. Haven't built the Scout yet but the Trans is spot on for me 5'10" with a 32 inseam.

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