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  1. #76
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    I'm considering getting a Klunker, but I'm 6'4" and wonder if anyone of a similar height has ridden one. Also, does anyone have a more detailed run down of the actual manufacturers of the parts and components (especially the coaster brake hub and the crankset)? I wish Transitions offered the frameset for sale.

  2. #77
    Klunkin' Ain't Easy.
    Reputation: sjordan72's Avatar
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    Hmmmm. I am 6-2 and can actually ride it as an XC bike (which I do a lot since I sold my fancy SS). It really needs a longer seat post for that though. At max seat height for the stock post I still can't get full leg extension. I know this is not what the Klunker was designed for but I'm loving it. As to the hub its a Histop and the cranks are stamped "SAMUX". The hub rattles a lot but has decent braking power. A friend has been Klunking with me and got a Velosteel. The brake is weaker but seems to deal with heat better and has better modulation.

    I modified mine a bit. 720mm wide bars and FR stem, older XTR cranks (using a Truvativ USA to Euro adapter) with a 40t ring and 19t cog. Much more rideable.

    Also, I found this video of UCLA football player Carl Hulick Klunking. He's only 6-2 but it should give you an idea of sizing.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 Transition Klunker-img_3041.jpg  

    Obviously, you're not a golfer.

  3. #78
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    My LBS in PA has a blue in stock for sale, if anyone is close by and interested, PM me
    Transition Bandit 29
    Surly Ogre
    Surly Necro Pugs w/ Lefty PBR
    Surly Big Dummy

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjordan72 View Post
    Found this article and called the company. The hub is still in development.

    Interbike 2011: Handsome Cycles introduce high-end coaster brake hub

    Then found Velosteel.
    I own a few Velosteel hubs, and I like 'em for JRA/cruising, but they wouldn't be my first choice off-road.

    For current-production SS CB hubs, it's tough to beat the humble Shimano cb-e110. Just use some spoke washers when you build the wheel. (Always a good idea when building up a wheel around a steel hub due to thinner flanges, but the cb-e110 doesn't have very well-radiussed holes, which compounds the problem.) Granted, the brake doesn't modulate well, but at least it stops the wheel with authority. The Velosteel rules for low-drag rolling, but the braking is on the weak side. The Shimano is just the opposite.

    I believe the TR Klunker runs a KT hub as OE; can anyone who owns one confirm/disconfirm this?
    Last edited by surreal; 01-08-2014 at 06:54 PM. Reason: typos

  5. #80
    Klunkin' Ain't Easy.
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    I have a friend using the Velosteel. I actually like the reduced power and quicker engagement. The hub on the TR takes alomost 45 degrees to engage. Kind of unsettling. I will probably try a Shimano too at some point.

    The hub on the TR Klunker (at least on mine) is a HiStop.
    Obviously, you're not a golfer.

  6. #81
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    Yeah, KT makes the HiStop, as well as a few other cb hubs. I don't have much confidence in them. As far as that goes, almost anything would be a step-up from stock.

    Funny you mention engagement. My Velosteel engages at about 30ish degrees, I'd estimate, on a good day. However, when I first rebuilt one, I used a lot of #2 grease, like I would on most cb hubs. Big mistake. The rollers in the Velosteel get gummed up, and engagement goes out the window. Best bet is to grease the ball bearings, but use oil on the rollers and either oil or a light coating of grease on the **brake** discs.

    Coolest thing about the Velosteel, from a mechanic's POV, is that setting up/adjusting the cones is crazy-easy. The Velosteel is basically a mutated Fichtel&Sachs Torpedo; the F&S design was aped, borrowed, stolen, and bought by many firms over the years, including several Brit companies. The inside of a Velosteel is virtually identical to a Perry or an early (pre-SR--those are relabeled KTs) Sturmey-Archer ss cb hub. Here's how Sheldon suggests adjusting those cones:
    " These English coaster brakes adjust differently from most coaster brake hubs. There's a square end on one end of the axle. The right cone is fixed to the axle; the left cone, as usual, is attached to the reaction arm.

    To adjust the cones on a typical English coaster-brake hub, you leave it in the bike, but loosen both axle nuts. Use an adjustable wrench to turn the whole axle, screwing it in or out of the left cone, then re-tighten the axle nuts once the cone adjustment is correct.

    These hubs use a roller-clutch, instead of the acme threaded driver/cone used on American coaster bakes. The 5 rollers sit around the base of the driver, which acts as a cam. When you pedal forward, the rollers are forced outward where they press against the inside of the hub shell, driving the wheel."

    Works like a charm. You can quickly and easily eliminate slop without binding up....

    For a tear-down/repack tutorial with pics, check out: http://www.elegantwheels.net/upload/...uild%20PDF.pdf

    (I'm planning to oil-port my next Velosteel wheel, to keep the PITA factor down a bit.)

    FWIW, I got some hubs from the elegantwheels site; I can vouch for'm. The owner, Guy, is a stand-up dude.
    Last edited by surreal; 01-10-2014 at 02:49 PM. Reason: oops

  7. #82
    Retro on Steroids
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    My Klunker came today. Had it on the street in an hour. Love it! Only change I will make is to get a longer seatpost, and I ditched the saddle, exchanged it for one out of the spare parts drawer after getting on it one time. Bike came with a caliper front brake, which I left in the box.

    Stem is heavy, so I'll probably upgrade that, but the concept of the bike is awesome.
    It don't mean a feng if it ain't got that
    shui.

  8. #83
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    Congrats Repack! There is a yellow one down at the LBS that I keep eyeing. Hard to keep the wallet in the back pocket every time I see it.

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